Hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric and method for knitting thereof
11560655 · 2023-01-24
Assignee
Inventors
- Xiangjiao Xie (Guangdong, CN)
- Changsheng Peng (Guangdong, CN)
- Lihong Qiu (Guangdong, CN)
- Ying Zhao (Guangdong, CN)
- Wenzheng Xie (Guangdong, CN)
- Yan Shen (Guangdong, CN)
- Baohong Hu (Guangdong, CN)
- Yanhuan Deng (Guangdong, CN)
- Xue Xiao (Guangdong, CN)
- Feiyu Zhang (Guangdong, CN)
- Hualan Xu (Guangdong, CN)
Cpc classification
D10B2331/04
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
D04B21/20
TEXTILES; PAPER
Abstract
The present invention discloses a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric and a method for knitting thereof. The method includes: making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting via two needles or three needles in a 1×1 or 2×1 warp plain stitch loop mode, and making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three needles in a open double warp plain stitch loop mode, and two loops are continuously formed on each course of the open double warp plain stitch loop. The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted fabric produced according to the present invention has good snagging grade, moderate horizontal straight tensile force and good resilience.
Claims
1. A method for knitting a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric, which uses a first guide bar and a second guide bar of a warp knitting machine for knitting, comprising: making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting in a 1×1 closed warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles with a yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2// or in a 2×1 closed warp plain stitch loop mode through three needles with a yarn laying digital of 1-0/2-3//, and making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction in an open double warp plain stitch loop mode, and two loops are continuously formed on each course of the open double warp plain stitch loop with a yarn laying digital of 0-2/3-1//.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein modes for threading of the first guide bar and the second guide bar are full-set threading.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is a synthetic fiber and/or a natural fiber having a fineness of 11-85 dtex.
4. The method according to claim 3, wherein the synthetic fiber is at least one of a nylon filament, a polyester filament, and a cotton thread.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 22-77 dtex.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is knitted via two needles.
7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is knitted via three needles.
8. A fabric, wherein the fabric is produced by using the method of claim 1.
9. A garment, wherein at least a portion of a linear edge and/or at least a portion of a curved edge of the garment is composed of the fabric of claim 8.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS
(7) The present invention is implemented by using a commercially available warp knitting machine, and the basic structure thereof includes a let-off mechanism, a knitting mechanism, a guide bar traverse movement mechanism, a pulling and curling mechanism, a transmission mechanism, and the like. The knitting mechanism includes a needle bed, a first guide bar, a second guide bar, and the like.
(8) The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to
Embodiment 1
(9) For a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment, an adopted machine is a Karl Mayer HKS 2-S type tricot warp knitting machine with a machine number of E40. The number of guide bars is 2, and modes for threading of a first guide bar (GB1) and a second guide bar (GB2) are GB1/GB2 full-set threading.
(10) Raw materials: a 22/34 dtex nylon matte straight yarn is selected for GB1, and a 22 dtex spandex yarn is selected for GB2.
(11) A method for knitting a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment includes: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar (GB1) and is knitted in a 1×1 closed warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2//), an elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar (GB2) and is knitted in a open double warp plain stitch loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn, and two loops are continuously formed on each course of the open chain loop (the yarn laying digital is 0-2/3-1//), to form a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric. The schematic structural diagram of the produced fabric is shown in
(12) A dyeing and finishing process includes: refining a knitted fabric in a steam cooker first to remove impurities on the fabric, make the fabric white and soft and have good penetrating properties, and prepare for subsequent dyeing, and then dehydrating the fabric for the first time through a vacuum dehydrator; after dehydration, entering into a tentering setting machine for presetting, and performing dyeing treatment through a sizing and dyeing combination machine; placing the dyed fabric in a dryer for drying, and finally subjecting a finished product to setting through a tentering setting machine. The steam cooker, the vacuum dehydrator, the tentering setting machine, the sizing and dyeing combination machine and the dryer described above are commercially available devices.
Embodiment 2
(13) A hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment adopts a machine of Karl Mayer HKS 2-S type tricot warp knitting machine with a machine number of E40. The number of guide bars is 2, and modes for threading of a first guide bar (GB1) and a second guide bar (GB2) are GB1/GB2 full-set threading.
(14) Raw materials: a 22/34 dtex polyester matte straight yarn is selected for GB1, and a 22 dtex spandex yarn is selected for GB2.
(15) A method for knitting a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment includes: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar (GB1) and is knitted in a 1×1 open warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1//), an elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar (GB2) and is knitted in a open double warp plain stitch loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn, and two loops are continuously formed on each course of the open chain loop (the yarn laying digital is 0-2/3-1//), to form a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric. The schematic structural diagram of the produced fabric is shown in
(16) A dyeing and finishing process includes: refining a knitted fabric in a steam cooker first to remove impurities on the fabric, make the fabric white and soft and have good penetrating properties, and prepare for subsequent dyeing, and then dehydrating the fabric for the first time through a vacuum dehydrator; after dehydration, entering into a tentering setting machine for presetting, and performing dyeing treatment through a sizing and dyeing combination machine; placing the dyed fabric in a dryer for drying, and finally subjecting a finished product to setting through a tentering setting machine. The steam cooker, the vacuum dehydrator, the tentering setting machine, the sizing and dyeing combination machine and the dryer described above are commercially available devices.
Embodiment 3
(17) For a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment, an adopted machine is a Karl Mayer HKS 2-S type tricot warp knitting machine with a machine number of E40. The number of guide bars is 2, and modes for threading are GB1/GB2 full-set threading.
(18) Raw materials: a 22/34 dtex cotton thread matte straight yarn is selected for GB1, and a 22 dtex spandex yarn is selected for GB2.
(19) A method for knitting a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by this embodiment includes: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar (GB1) and is knitted in a 2×1 closed warp plain stitch loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/2-3//), an elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar (GB2) and is knitted in a open double warp plain stitch loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn, and two loops are continuously formed on each course of the open double warp plain stitch loop (the yarn laying digital is 0-2/3-1//), to form a hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric. The schematic structural diagram of the produced fabric is shown in
(20) A dyeing and finishing process includes: refining a knitted fabric in a steam cooker first to remove impurities on the fabric, make the fabric white and soft and have good penetrating properties, and prepare for subsequent dyeing, and then dehydrating the fabric for the first time through a vacuum dehydrator; after dehydration, entering into a tentering setting machine for presetting, and performing dyeing treatment through a sizing and dyeing combination machine; placing the dyed fabric in a dryer for drying, and finally subjecting a finished product to setting through a tentering setting machine. The steam cooker, the vacuum dehydrator, the tentering setting machine, the sizing and dyeing combination machine and the dryer described above are commercially available devices.
Embodiment 4
(21) This embodiment differs from Embodiment 1 in that the fineness of the non-elastic yarn is 156 dtex, and the other knitting processes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
(22) The warp-knitted fabric produced by the knitting mode has a large gram mass of the fabric, is unsuitable for some soft close-fitting clothes, is more suitable for outerwear, and is coarse and hard in hand feeling.
Embodiment 5
(23) This embodiment differs from Embodiment 1 in that the fineness of elastic yarn is 116 dtex, and the other knitting processes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
(24) In the warp-knitted fabric prepared by the knitting mode, a yellow spandex yarn is exposed at the bottom of the fabric, and the elongation of the warp-knitted fabric is greatly reduced and the fabric is too hard in hand feeling. It is difficult to roll up the knitted gray fabric, and the curling is serious.
APPLICATION EXAMPLE 1
(25) The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric prepared in Embodiment 1 is woven into a pair of sports underpants including sides A and B, where the schematic structural diagram of the side A is shown in
APPLICATION EXAMPLE 2
(26) The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric prepared in Embodiment 2 is woven into a pair of sports underpants with a schematic structural diagram as shown in
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1
(27) This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the elastic yarn is knitted in a 2-0// knitting structure mode, and the other knitting processes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
(28) The warp-knitted fabric produced by the knitting mode still has the characteristics of being free of hemming-stitch, but the hand feeling of the cloth cover will deteriorate, and the hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric produced will have poor cloth cover elasticity due to structural changes.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2
(29) This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the elastic yarn is prepared in a 2-0/0-2// knitting structure mode, and the other knitting processes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
(30) The warp-knitted fabric produced by the knitting mode still has the characteristics of being free of hemming-stitch, but the hand feeling of the cloth cover will deteriorate, and the hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric produced will have poor cloth cover elasticity due to structural changes.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3
(31) This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted in a different-direction knitting structure mode, and the other knitting processes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
(32) The warp-knitted fabric produced by using the knitting mode has a good hand feeling of the cloth cover, but the obtained hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric is subjected to edge curling due to the structural change when cut, and does not have the advantage of being free of hemming-stitch.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 4
(33) This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in a 1×1 closed warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 2-3/1-0//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in a closed double warp plain stitch loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn (the yarn laying digital is 1-3/2-0//), to form a gray fabric of the warp-knitted fabric.
(34) The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric produced by using the knitting mode is subjected to edge curling due to the structural change when cut, and does not have the advantage of being free of hemming-stitch.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 5
(35) A method for knitting a warp-knitted fabric in the prior art is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in a 1×1 open warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in a open double warp plain stitch loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the warp-knitted fabric.
(36) The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric produced by using the knitting mode has the advantage of being free of hemming-stitch and is good in elasticity, but since an ordinary two-needle open warp plain stitch loop structure is adopted for the GB1/GB2, the defects of the structure make the fabric ravelled easily, and once a loop breaks, the whole fabric is divided into two. The ravelling refers to the phenomenon that loops are separated from each other when a yarn of a knitted fabric breaks or loses an interlacing connection; and once a loop breaks, the wales will be ravelled from top to bottom, causing one fabric to be divided into two.
(37) Fabric structures obtained in all embodiments and comparative examples are experimentally tested.
(38) (1) Tensile Property
(39) Referring to the LTD-03 tensile force test method (Victoria's Secret customer-specific test), this standard is to test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under the agreed tensile force; the test sample size was 9×3 inches, fabrics of embodiments and comparative examples were taken in the horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, the tensile force instrument used was a Zwick/Roell's H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, using a force of 7.5 lb, with an intermediate clamping distance of 127 mm and a stretching speed of 20 in/min, and the cycle stretch was performed twice.
(40) (2) Snagging Performance
(41) Referring to the test method of BS-8479 Method for Determining Textile Spinning Tendency—Rotating Chamber Method, fabrics of the embodiments and the comparative examples were tested by snagging under the James Heal Snagging Tester instrument. The test sample size was 140×140 mm. The test samples underwent forward rotation for 50 turns at a speed of 60 r/min, and underwent reversal rotation for 50 turns; the cycle was performed 10 times, 1000 turns were performed in total, and then the samples were taken out and compared with a standard grading picture to obtain snagging grades. There are grades 1-5, grade 5 is the best, and grade 1 is the worst.
(42) (3) Hand Feeling
(43) Three textile industry technicians were selected to make a touch feeling on these three fabrics, and comprehensively evaluate the hand feeling of the fabrics. There are grades 1-5, and grade 5 is the best.
(44) (4) Resilience
(45) Referring to the LTD-03 tensile force test method (Victoria's Secret customer-specific test), this standard is to test the elongation of the knitted elastic fabric under the agreed tensile force; the test sample size was 9×3 inch, fabrics of embodiments and comparative examples were taken in the horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, the tensile force instrument used was a Zwick/Roell's H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, using a force of 7.5 lb, with an intermediate clamping distance of 127 mm and a stretching speed of 20 in/min, and the cycle stretch was performed twice, where a value of 85% or above of resilience can be considered as being qualified.
(46) The elongation properties, snagging, hand feeling and resilience of the finished fabrics obtained in Embodiments 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.
(47) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Snagging Hand feeling Resilience Lengthwise (grade) (grade) (%) Embodi- Lengthwise 127 3.5 4 90 ment 1 Widthwise 270 3 95 Embodi- Lengthwise 132 3 4 92 ment 2 Widthwise 196 3.5 95 Embodi- Lengthwise 243 3 3.5 96 ment 3 Widthwise 150 3 92 Embodi- Lengthwise 79 2.5 2 86 ment 4 Widthwise 120 2 86 Embodi- Lengthwise 50 2.5 2 90 ment 5 Widthwise 90 2 89 Comparative Lengthwise 70 2.5 2 78 Example 1 Widthwise 98 2 75 Comparative Lengthwise 70 2.5 2.5 70 Example 2 Widthwise 88 2 72 Comparative Lengthwise 90 1.5 4 82 Example 3 Widthwise 123 1.5 83 Comparative Lengthwise 163 2 2.5 78 Example 4 Widthwise 110 2 80 Comparative Lengthwise 150 3 3.5 90 Example 5 Widthwise 189 2.5 90
(48) It can be seen from Table 1 that the three hemming-stitch-free structures provided by the present invention are optimal in terms of elongation, hand feeling, resilience, snagging grade and the like, and the fabric has superior comprehensive property and is suitable for development of various products. In Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, the warp-knitted fabric prepared by using the elastic yarn chain exchange double loop stitch structure still has the characteristics of being free of hemming-stitch, but the hand feeling of the cloth cover will deteriorate, and the hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric produced will have poor cloth cover elasticity due to structural changes. Reverse yarn laying movement is performed for Comparative Example 3; and although the hand feeling is maintained, the requirements for free cutting are not met, and the snagging is relatively poor. Comparative Example 4 used the same-direction closed double loop stitch structure, but the fabric is not good in elasticity, poor in hand feeling and does not have the characteristic of being free of hemming-stitch. An ordinary two-needle open warp plain stitch structure is adopted for GB1/GB2 of Comparative Example 5, the elongation and hand feeling are good, but the defects of the structure make the fabric raveled easily, and once a loop breaks, the whole fabric is divided into two. In summary, the present invention is superior to the prior art in terms of structure and properties of finished fabrics.
(49) The hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted elastic fabric provided by the present invention has good resilience, can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch and has good elongation, snagging grade and hand feeling. Only by means of a knitting structure, the method for knitting the hemming-stitch-free warp-knitted fabric maintains an original cutting state without edge processing, without laser cutting and without heating bonding processing. The fabric can be produced by ordinary electric shears, and thus the cost is greatly reduced.
(50) The above contents are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention, and for those of ordinary skill in the art, changes can be made on specific embodiments and application scopes according to the idea of the present invention. The content of the present specification should not be construed as limiting the present invention.