COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UV-SCREENING AGENT, AN ANIONIC CROSSLINKED HYDROPHILIC POLYMER, A SURFACTANT HAVING AN HLB LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO 5 AND A SILICONE COPOLYMER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising one or more UV-screening agents, one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers, one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5 and one or more specific silicone copolymers.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin against UV radiation using said composition.

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) an oily phase, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, b) one or more UV-screening agents, c) one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers, d) one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5, and e) one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of the type of an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol comprising a C.sub.6 to C.sub.30 fatty chain, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, insoluble organic UV-screening agents, inorganic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, preferably chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, ,-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the UV-screening agent(s) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 50% by weight and better still from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homo- and copolymers, homo- and copolymers of at least one ,-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polymers comprising at least one ,-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, and more preferentially from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2.5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 are non-ionic, and are preferably chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide); polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan; non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan; alkyl- and polyalkylglycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides; alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol; and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 are chosen from steareth-2, beheneth-2, oleth-2, sucrose distearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, the ester of glycerol and of palmitic and stearic acids, glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, and mixtures thereof; and preferably glyceryl monooleate.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight and more preferentially from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer(s) of the type ester of carboxylic acid and of alcohol comprising a C.sub.6 to C.sub.30 fatty chain are chosen from monomers of the type ester of (meth)acrylic acid and of alcohol comprising a C.sub.6 to C.sub.30 fatty chain of structure (XVII) and mixtures thereof ##STR00070## in which R.sub.1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and R.sub.2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.6 to C.sub.30, preferably C.sub.7 to C.sub.24, alkyl chain.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that R.sub.2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.7 to C.sub.24 alkyl chain.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer(s) containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain are chosen from monomers of the type (meth)acrylic acid esterified with a silicone group of structure (XVIII) ##STR00071## in which R.sub.3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6, R.sub.7 and R.sub.8, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1 to C.sub.30 alkyl chain, n and m represent, independently of each other, an integer greater than or equal to 1.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone copolymer(s) also comprise one or more additional monomers, preferably one or more monomers which are an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol of C.sub.1 to C.sub.5, and more preferentially chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 alcohol and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone copolymer(s) are chosen from copolymers of stearyl methacrylate, of methyl methacrylate and of propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; copolymers of methyl methacrylate, of butyl methacrylate, of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and of propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of the silicone copolymer(s) ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of silicone copolymer(s) and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) is less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4.5, and more preferentially ranges from 1 to 4.5.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more efficiency boosters, preferably chosen from particles of copolymer of styrene and of acrylates; waxes; gelling lipophilic polymers; and mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more insoluble particles.

19. Cosmetic method for treating the skin, in particular human skin, against UV radiation, consisting in applying to the skin a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0468] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

[0469] 1) Preparation of the Compositions

[0470] The composition (A1) according to the present invention, and the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) which follow were prepared from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.

TABLE-US-00001 Compara- Compara- Compara- Invention tive tive tive A1 B1 B2 B3 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Styrene/acrylate 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 copolymer Carbomer.sup.(*) 0.3 0.3 0.3 - Crosslinked C.sub.10-30 alkyl - - - 0.3 acrylate polymer Propanediol 3 3 3 3 Homosalate 10 10 10 10 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 5 5 Drometrizone trisiloxane 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Bis(ethylhexylphenol) 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 methoxyphenyltriazine Octocrylene 5 5 5 5 Butyl methoxy 5 5 5 5 dibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl triazone 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.35 Glyceryl monooleate 0.4 - 0.4 0.4 Polysorbate 20 - 0.4 - - Nylon 12 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Copolymer .sup.(a) 1.2 .sup.(a) 1.2 - .sup.(a) 1.2 of acrylate/ .sup.(b) 1.8 .sup.(b) 1.8 .sup.(b) 1.8 dimethicone.sup.(a) in linear pentadimethyl- siloxane.sup.(b) (**) Ethanol 3 3 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 .sup.(*) mixture of Carbopol Ultrez 10 and Carbopol 980 according to the ratio 2/1 .sup.(**) KP-545L sold by the company Shin-Etsu

[0471] 2) Procedure

[0472] For each of the compositions above, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing, with mechanical stirring at 65 C., the following ingredients: phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA, styrene/acrylate copolymer, propanediol and water.

[0473] The carbomer and the crosslinked polymer of C.sub.10-30 alkyl acrylate are then added and dispersed with mechanical stirring.

[0474] The triethanolamine is then added.

[0475] In parallel, the oily phase is prepared by mixing, with mechanical stirring at 80 C., the UV-screening agents with glyceryl monooleate or polysorbate 20.

[0476] The aqueous and oily phases thus obtained are macroscopically homogeneous.

[0477] The composition (A1), according to the invention, and the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion are prepared by slow introduction of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a homogenizer of COS 1000 type with a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes. The mixture of the acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and linear pentadimethylsiloxane is then introduced with stirring into the emulsion.

[0478] The emulsion thus obtained is cooled with stirring to 40 C., before the addition of the nylon 12 and of the ethanol with gentle stirring.

[0479] The emulsions are then cooled to ambient temperature with slow stirring.

[0480] They are characterized by oil drops having a size ranging from 500 nanometres to 10 m. The size of the oil drops was measured by optical microscopy in white light.

[0481] The level of anti-sun protection, and also the quality of application to wet skin, of each of the compositions (A1), (B 1), (B2) and (B3) were evaluated according to the following methods.

a. Level of Anti-Sun Protection

[0482] The level of anti-sun protection is defined by the sun protection factor (SPF) which is determined according to the in vitro method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).

[0483] Each composition was applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a uniform and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg.Math.cm.sup.2.

[0484] The sun protection factors (SPFs) were measured using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere.

b. Quality of Application to Wet Skin

[0485] Each of the compositions obtained above was applied to a substrate, which is a skin substitute.

[0486] The skin substitute is an elastomer composed of several layers, an internal layer of silicone and an external layer of polyurethane.

[0487] The skin substitute was immersed beforehand in a bath of demineralized water at 28 C. for 5 minutes, before the application of the compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3). Each of the compositions was applied using a micro pipette in a proportion of 2 mg.Math.cm.sup.2 before being distributed very rapidly and uniformly with a fingerstall.

[0488] The obtaining of a uniform film was evaluated with the naked eye.

[0489] Moreover, the transparency on the substrate was evaluated by means of a colorimetric measurement of the parameter L (Delta L, difference in luminance between a zone with formula and a zone without formula) using a spectrocolorimeter (CM 2600d from the company Konica Minolta). When the composition is compatible with wet skin, the parameter L is less than 0.6.

[0490] In parallel, the compatibility of the compositions with dry skin was evaluated on a dry substrate. The compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3) were applied using a micro pipette in a proportion of 2 mg.Math.cm.sup.2. They were then distributed very rapidly and uniformly with a fingerstall. After one minute of drying, the parameter L was measured using a spectrocolorimeter (CM 2600d from the company Konica Minolta).

[0491] 3) Results

[0492] The results are given in the table below.

TABLE-US-00002 Compara- Compara- Invention tive Comparative tive A1 B1 B2 B3 SPF in vitro 156 30 89 18 126 25 105 20 Presence of a uniform +++ --- + --- and transparent deposit (heterogeneous on wet skin film) L on wet skin 0.31 0.72 Not significant 0.93 (heterogeneous film) L on dry skin 0.34 1.15 0.75 1.73

[0493] The results obtained above show that only the composition (A1) prepared according to the present invention, i.e. comprising an anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer, a surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 5, and a silicone copolymer as claimed, has good UV-screening properties and excellent compatibility with wet skin. Indeed, the deposit is uniform and transparent and the colorimetric parameter L is less than 0.6 (0.31). Moreover, the sun protection factor (SPF) is greater than 130 (156).

[0494] The composition (A1) is also stable over time and has good photoprotective properties with an in vivo SPF level evaluated at 50.

[0495] Conversely, for the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) which do not comprise the combination of the invention, the performance levels in terms of screening efficiency and/or of compatibility with wet skin are inferior to those obtained with the composition of the invention (A1).

Example 2

[0496] 1) Preparation of the Compositions

[0497] The following compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) were prepared according to the present invention from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.

[0498] The weight ratio R between the amount of silicone copolymer and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer was calculated for each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3).

TABLE-US-00003 Invention Invention Invention A1 A2 A2 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 Styrene/acrylate copolymer 0.9 0.9 0.9 Carbomer.sup.(*) 0.3 0.3 0.3 Propanediol 3 3 3 Homosalate 10 10 10 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 5 Drometrizone trisiloxane 0.9 0.9 0.9 Bis(ethylhexylphenol) 1.7 1.7 1.7 methoxyphenyltriazine Octocrylene 5 5 5 Butyl methoxy 5 5 5 dibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl triazone 2.35 2.35 2.35 Glyceryl monooleate 0.4 0.4 0.4 Nylon 12 0.8 0.8 0.8 Copolymer .sup.(a) 1.2 .sup.(a) 1.8 .sup.(a) 3 of acrylate/ .sup.(b) 1.8 .sup.(b) 2.7 .sup.(b) 4.5 dimethicone.sup.(a) in linear pentadimethylsiloxane.sup.(b) (**) Linear pentadimethyl siloxane 2.7 1.8 - Ethanol 3 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 R 4 6 10 .sup.(*) mixture of Carbopol Ultrez 10 and Carbopol 980 according to the ratio 2/1 .sup.(**) KP-545L sold by the company Shin-Etsu

[0499] 2) Procedure

[0500] The compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) were prepared according to the same protocol as that previously described.

[0501] The tacky effect of each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) was measured with a Swantech TAXT2 texturometer equipped with Texture expert exceed V212 software.

[0502] Each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) is deposited on a flat support and spread using a film drawer, having a thickness of 100 microns, at 25 C., in order to obtain a film of homogeneous composition.

[0503] The tacky effect is then measured using a metal support which moves at a speed of 0.10 mm/s until the film of composition to be tested is achieved. The tacky effect corresponds to the withdrawal force required to detach the film.

[0504] 3) Results

[0505] The results are given in the table below.

TABLE-US-00004 Invention Invention Invention A1 A2 A3 Force (N) 0.2 0.35 0.48

[0506] The results obtained above show that the composition (A1), for which the weight ratio R between the amount of silicone copolymers and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers is less than 5, has improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of tacky-feel effect. It is in fact less tacky to the feel than the compositions (A2) and (A3) for which the weight ratio R is greater than 5.