Obtaining emerized fabric properties by without applying sueding process to woven fabric with cotton yarn

Abstract

A woven fabric is provided wherein pile weft yarns, auxiliary weft yarns, and warp yarns are weaved in the front face and back face of the fabric according to a pattern, and wherein at least one of the pile weft yarns and/or auxiliary pile yarns is synthetic elastomeric yarn and at least one of the same is cotton core-spun elastomeric yarn.

Claims

1. A woven fabric, wherein pile weft yarns, auxiliary weft yarns, and warp yarns are weaved in a front face and a back face of the fabric according to a pattern, and wherein at least one of the pile weft yarns and/or auxiliary weft yarns comprises synthetic elastomeric yarn and at least one of the same comprises cotton core-spun elastomeric yarn, wherein: the number of bypassed warp yarns with which the pile weft yarn is not connected is at least 11, at most sixteen; that the pile weft yarn, once it passes the warp yarn, is connected with the fabric by means of loop connection point; and cotton core-spun elastomeric based pile weft yarns that are used in the fabric pattern are positioned at the back face of the fabric under the warp yarns.

2. The woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the degree of hairiness of the pile weft yarns formed of cotton core-spun elastomeric yarns is at least 50% as per Uster Statistics hairiness index value.

3. The woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that elastomeric synthetic yarns are used as auxiliary weft yarns.

Description

FIGURES FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE INVENTION

(1) FIG. 1 is the schematic view of the back face of the fabric.

(2) FIG. 2 is the schematic cross-sectional view of the fabric.

(3) FIG. 3 is the illustration of weaving pattern 1.

(4) FIG. 4 is the illustration of weaving pattern 2.

(5) FIG. 5 is the illustration of weaving pattern 3.

DESCRIPTION OF REFERENCE NUMERALS

(6) 101. Woven fabric 102. Front face of the fabric 103. Back face of the fabric 104. Warp yarns 105. Auxiliary weft yarn 106. Pile weft yarn 107. Pile base portion 108. Loop connection point 109. The number of bypassed warp yarns with which the pile weft yarn is not connected

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

(7) In order to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art, the invention permits obtaining a woven fabric, according to the determined fabric design, which has a suitable fabric dimensional stability and presents a firm handle and soft touch, using yarns with a high degree of hairiness, but without applying the sueding process.

(8) For describing the embodiment of the invention in a more clear way, the detailed formulas, calculations and the related standards are presented below.

(9) 1) Fabric Pattern Design According to the Density Coefficient (K) Value of the Pile Weft Yarn

(10) A different fabric pattern has been designed for obtaining a napped and soft surface on the back face (103) of the fabric. It is ensured, with this design, that the pile weft yarns (106) are on the back face (103) of the fabric and the pile weft yarns (106) are higher in density. In order to formulate this, the Pile Weft Yarn Density Coefficient (K) value is calculated. With a fabric pattern design having a high K value, a soft and napped surface is formed on the back face (103) of the fabric. The K value of the woven fabric according to the invention is increased more than 40% when compared to the known denim fabrics, thereby increasing the number of warp yarns (109) with which the pile weft yarn is not connected and which is bypassed. During the trials and tests conducted for reaching the suitable fabric properties, the number of warp yarns (109) with which the pile weft yarn is not connected and which is bypassed was determined to be at least eleven in number. FIG. 3, FIG. 4, and FIG. 5 show the illustrations of weaving patterns of the fabric according to the invention, wherein the K value is aimed to be high as given in the Table 1 below.

(11) The Calculation of Pile Weft Yarn Density Coefficient (K): Ne: Yarn numbering, English measurement of unit a: Warp yarn diameter is calculated with the formula =0.908/NeWarp Yarn. b: Weft yarn diameter is calculated with the formula =0.908/NeWeft Yarn. c: Weft Yarn density, number of weft/cm d: Warp Yarn density, number of warp/cm The number of bypassed warp yarns with which the pile weft yarn is not connected (FIG. 2)
e: 109
f: Loop Connection Point Number is calculated using the formula =d/(e+1).
X: Loop Connection Point Area is calculated using the formula =abfc/2.
r Total Pile Weft Yarn Area is calculated using the formula =bc1 cm.
K: Pile Weft Yarn Density Coefficient is calculated using the formula =(YX)/Y.

(12) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Pile Weft Yarn Auxiliary Weft Yarn Connection Number Recovery Warp Yarn Warp Yarn Pile Weft Weft Density in Weaving (Number/10 cm, Test Number Density Yarn Number Yarn Number Finished Pattern in Fabric Width Value Thickness in Reed Thickness Thickness Fabric Number Direction on ASTM Example (Ne) (Ends/cm) (Ne) (Ne) (Wire/cm) (FIG.) the Reed) D3107 K % Example Ne20/1 26 Ne50/1 78Dtex PES 67 Weaving 15 465 83.5 1 100% Ring Cotton filament + Pattern 1 Ring Yarn + 44Dtex (FIG. 3) Cotton Core-spun Elastane Yarn 44Dtex Elastane Example Ne20/1 26 Ne50/1 78Dtex PES 67 Weaving 15 312 83.5 2 100% Ring Cotton filament + Pattern 2 Ring Yarn + 44Dtex (FIG. 4) Cotton Core-spun Elastane Yarn 44Dtex Elastane Example Ne20/1 26 Ne50/1 78Dtex PES 67 Weaving 11 286 78.0 3 100% Ring Cotton filament + Pattern 3 Ring Yarn + 44Dtex (FIG. 5) Cotton Core-spun Elastane Yarn 44Dtex Elastane Example Ne20/1 26 Ne30/1 78Dtex PES 56 Weaving 15 261 83.5 4 100% Ring Cotton filament + Pattern 2 Ring Yarn + 44Dtex (FIG. 4) Cotton Core-spun Elastane Yarn 44Dtex Elastane Example Ne14/1 26 Ne50/1 78Dtex PES 67 Weaving 15 414 83.5 5 100% Ring Cotton filament + Pattern 1 Ring Yarn + 44Dtex (FIG. 3) Cotton Core-spun Elastane Yarn 44Dtex Elastane

(13) Growth Test was conducted as per ASTM D3107 standards.

(14) 2) Fabric Pattern Design According to Growth Test Value

(15) The limit of the minimum number of loop connection points (108) of the pile weft yarns (106) is restricted by the acceptable tolerances of the fabric dimensional stability. The present invention was evaluated as per Growth Test ASTM D3107 Standards, one of the textile test methods measuring dimensional stability of the fabric. Growth is the test which examines the recovery capability of the fabric after tensions are applied thereon during use and after washing. If said value is high, it means that stretching/widening occurs in the knee and elbow areas of the cloth after use. The illustrated fabric designs of the present invention are formed taking the acceptable growth test value range into account, as shown in Table 1.

(16) 3) Properties of the Weft Yarns

(17) a. Pile Weft Yarn Structure

(18) The pile weft yarns (106) arranged on the back face (103) of the fabric are made of cotton core-spun elastane yarns. As it is aimed to connection the pile weft yarns (106) with minimum number of loop connection points (108), it can move freely on fabric surface. In order to minimize said freedom and allow a more stretched positioning, cotton core-spun yarns are used. Thus, a stretched appearance which covers the surface is obtained in the back face (103) of the fabric.

(19) Core-spun is the name given to the yarn which is made of short staple fibers and has elastane in its center. The elasticity of the woven fabrics produced of core-spun yarns in weft direction is higher than that of the rigid fabrics. In the fabric designs according to the present invention illustrated in FIG. 3, FIG. 4, and FIG. 5, the pile weft yarns (106) are made of cotton core-spun elastane yarns, as shown in Table 1.

(20) b. Pile Weft Yarn Hairiness Value

(21) The pile weft yarns (106) arranged on the back face (103) of the fabric are made of yarns with a high degree of hairiness. Thanks to the use of the yarns having a high degree of hairiness, the fabric is provided with a softer handle, at the same time with a firm effect. The degree of hairiness of the yarn is generally measured using the devices for measuring yarn hairiness value by the firm Uster Technologies Ag, and the experiments given in Table 2 are performed using this device. Of two yarns produced under the same conditions, the one having the lower yarn twist has a higher hairiness index value, and thus having a higher level of hairiness. However, the less the yarn twist, the lower the yarn breaking strength. In the product according to the present invention, the pile weft yarn was determined to have a high hairiness value and a sufficient level of breaking strength. In the fabric designs according to the present invention illustrated in FIG. 3, FIG. 4, and FIG. 5, the pile weft yarns (106) are formed with a targeted hairiness index value of 4-4.5, the results of which are shown in Table 2.

(22) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Yarn Number Breaking Thickness Twist Hairiness Value Strength Trial (Ne) (Twist/Meter) (H.sub.v index) (cN) Trial 1 50 989-Z 4.1 232.3 Trial 2 50 1111-Z 3.4 289.4

(23) The tests were performed using USTER Tensorapid 4 and Tester 4 Devices.

(24) c. Auxiliary Weft Yarn Structure

(25) The weft yarns with elasticity are used for obtaining woven fabrics having elasticity in weft direction. In the woven fabric (101) according to the invention, synthetic yarns with high elasticity are used as auxiliary weft yarns (105) for providing elasticity. The reason for that is both providing elasticity and improving the growth test value. This is because negative results were obtained in terms of growth test values in the fabrics produced with pile weft yarns (106) with minimum loop connection points (108) and designed in a way to be arranged on the back face (103) of the fabric according to the invention. The growth test yielded positive results when elastomeric synthetic weft yarns are used as auxiliary weft yarns (105) in the novel woven fabric (101) design. In the fabric designs according to the present invention illustrated in FIG. 3, FIG. 4 and FIG. 5, the auxiliary weft yarns (105) are made of synthetic yarns, as shown in Table 1.

(26) The yarns at the back face (103) of the fabric are envisaged such that they will form minimum number of loop connection points (108) with this fabric. This is because the yarn with a high degree of hairiness which is to provide the suede-like and napped effect is designed at the back face (103) of the fabric. In order to achieve a suede-like effect, the amount of the pile weft yarns (106) at the back face (103) of the fabric must be high. For the pile weft yarns (106) to be as dense as possible at the back face (103) of the fabric, they must form the minimum number of loop connection points (108) on the fabric.

(27) As a result of the trials and tests, the number of warp yarns (109) with which the pile weft yarn is not connected and which is bypassed was determined to be at least eleven, at most sixteen in number. Once the pile weft yarn (106) passes the warp yarn (104), it is connected with the fabric by means of loop connection point (108).

(28) The illustrated fabric designs according the present invention, depending on the value ranges regarding Warp Ne, Warp density, Weft Ne, Weft density, Fabric Pattern, the Number of bypassed warp yarns with which the Pile Weft Yarn is not connected are defined in claims, and not limited to the above description made only for illustrative purposes.