COSMETIC USE OF ARTHROFACTIN

Abstract

The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a mixture of arthrofactins as a moisturizer particularly for the skin, mucosa and particularly dry skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising as active ingredient a mixture of arthrofactins comprising (i) arthrofactin A of the following formula (I):
R.sub.1D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-Ile.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (I), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R.sub.1 represents the group of the following formula (I): ##STR00016## wherein R.sub.1 is a saturated alkyl chain with 5 to 8 carbon atoms, and (ii) at least one derivative of arthrofactin A, said derivative being of the following formula (II):
RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II) wherein Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each independently represent D-Leu, L-Leu, D-IIe or L-Ile, Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 each independently represent D-Asp, L-Asp, D-Glu or L-Glu, Xaa.sub.3 represents D-Thr, L-Thr, D-allo-Thr or L-allo-Thr, Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each independently represent D-Ser, L-Ser, D-Gln or L-Gln, the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R represents the group of the following formula (II): ##STR00017## wherein R is an alkyl chain with 5 to 9 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one unsaturation; the composition further comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.1 is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is chosen from the group consisting of arthrofactin B, arthrofactin C, arthrofactin D and mixtures thereof, arthrofactin B being of the following formula (III):
R.sub.1D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Glu.sub.11 (III), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Glu.sub.11 amino acid residue arthrofactin C being of the following formula (IV):
R.sub.2D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-Ile.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (IV), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the carboxyl C-terminal group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R.sub.2 represents the group of the following formula (IV): ##STR00018## wherein R.sub.2 is an alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, comprising exactly one unsaturation; arthrofactin D being of the following formula (V):
R.sub.3D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (V), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R.sub.3 represents the group of the following formula (V): ##STR00019## wherein R.sub.3 is a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said mixture of arthrofactins comprises: (i) arthrofactin A of the following formula (1A): ##STR00020## (ii) at least one derivative of arthrofactin A, chosen among compounds of the following formulas (IIA) and/or (IIB) and/or (IIC): ##STR00021##

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is a mixture of said compounds of formulas (IIA), (IIB) and (IIC).

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said mixture of arthrofactins mostly comprises arthrofactin A.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said mixture of arthrofactins is likely to be obtained by fermentation with the Pseudomonas sp. strain MIS38.

8. The composition according to claim 1, said composition being in the form of a care composition.

9. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 1, on the skin.

10. The method according to claim 9, wherein the mixture of arthrofactins is applied on the skin and particularly dry skin.

11. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for moisturizing keratinic material which comprises applying to said keratinic material a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 1.

12. The composition according to claim 2, wherein said at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is chosen from the group consisting of arthrofactin B, arthrofactin C, arthrofactin D and mixtures thereof, arthrofactin B being of the following formula (III):
R.sub.1D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-Ile.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Glu.sub.11 (III), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Glu.sub.11 amino acid residue; arthrofactin C being of the following formula (IV):
R.sub.2D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10LAsp.sub.11 (IV), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the carboxyl C-terminal group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R.sub.2 represents the group of the following formula (IV): ##STR00022## wherein R.sub.2 is an alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, comprising exactly one unsaturation; arthrofactin D being of the following formula (V):
R.sub.3D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (V), wherein the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and R.sub.3 represents the group of the following formula (V): ##STR00023## wherein R.sub.3 is a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms.

13. The composition according to claim 2, wherein said mixture of arthrofactins comprises: (i) arthrofactin A of the following formula (IA): ##STR00024## (ii) at least one derivative of arthrofactin A, chosen among compounds of the following formulas (IIA) and/or (IIB) and/or (IIC): ##STR00025##

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is a mixture of said compounds of formulas (IIA), (IIB) and (IIC).

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said mixture of arthrofactins mostly comprises arthrofactin A.

16. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 2, on the skin.

17. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 3, on the skin.

18. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 4, on the skin.

19. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 5, on the skin.

20. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment which comprises applying a mixture of arthrofactins as defined in claim 6, on the skin

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0071] The active ingredient of the composition according to the invention, having particularly the moisturizing properties described herein, is a mixture of arthrofactins comprising:

[0072] (i) arthrofactin A of the following formula (I):

R.sub.1D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (I),

[0073] wherein [0074] the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp amino acid residue, and [0075] R.sub.1 represents the group of the following formula (I):

##STR00005## [0076] wherein R.sub.1 is a saturated alkyl chain with 5 to 8 carbon atoms, particularly with 7 carbon atoms, and

[0077] (ii) at least one derivative of arthrofactin A, said derivative being of the following formula (II):

RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II)

[0078] wherein [0079] Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each independently represent D-Leu, L-Leu, D-IIe or L-IIe, [0080] Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 each independently represent D-Asp, L-Asp, D-Glu or L-Glu, [0081] Xaa.sub.3 represents D-Thr, L-Thr, D-allo-Thr or L-allo-Thr, [0082] Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each independently represent D-Ser, L-Ser, D-Gln or L-Gln, [0083] the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa.sub.11 amino acid residue, and [0084] R represents the group of the following formula (II):

##STR00006## [0085] wherein R is a hydrocarbon chain with 5 to 9 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0086] In the context of the invention, amino acids preceded by the D- symbol are D configuration amino acids, while amino acids preceded by the L- symbol are L configuration amino acids.

[0087] The term D-allo-Thr designates the stereoisomer of threonine with a (2R, 3R) configuration while the term L-allo-Thr designates the stereoisomer of threonine with a (2S, 3S) configuration.

[0088] Alkyl chain means herein a saturated hydrocarbon chain.

[0089] In one particular embodiment, the R.sub.1 group as defined above is an alkyl chain with 5, 6, 7, or 8 carbon atoms and preferably an alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms.

[0090] In one particular embodiment, the R group as defined above is a hydrocarbon chain with 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration. In one particular embodiment, the R group is a saturated alkyl chain with 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 carbon atoms. In another embodiment, the R group is a hydrocarbon chain with 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 carbon atoms comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration, preferably comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0091] In one particular embodiment, the R group is a n alkyl chain with 7 or 9 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration. In one particular embodiment, the R group is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 or 9 carbon atoms. In another embodiment, the R group is an alkyl chain with 7 or 9 carbon atoms comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration, preferably comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0092] In one particular embodiment, the R group is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms. In another particular embodiment, the R group is a hydrocarbon chain with 7 carbon atoms comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration, preferably comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0093] In another particular embodiment, the R group is a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms. In another particular embodiment, the R group is a hydrocarbon chain with 9 carbon atoms comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration, preferably comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0094] In one particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 amino acids as described above each independently represent D-Leu or L-Leu. In one particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 amino acids each independently represent D-IIe or L-IIe.

[0095] In another embodiment, the Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4 and Xaa.sub.5 amino acids each independently represent D-Leu or D-IIe. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 amino acids each independently represent L-Leu or L-IIe.

[0096] In one preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4 and Xaa.sub.5 amino acids each represent D-Leu. In another preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.7 amino acid represents L-Leu. In another preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 amino acids each represent L-IIe.

[0097] In one particularly preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4 and Xaa.sub.5 amino acids each represent D-Leu, the Xaa.sub.7 amino acid represents L-Leu, and the Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 amino acids each represent L-IIe.

[0098] In one particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 amino acids each independently represent D-Asp or L-Asp. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 amino acids each independently represent D-Glu or L-Glu. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 amino acids each independently represent D-Asp or D-Glu. In one preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.2 amino acid represents D-Asp. In one preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.11 amino acid represents L-Asp or L-Glu. In one even more preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.2 amino acid represents D-Asp and the Xaa amino acid represents L-Asp or L-Glu.

[0099] In one particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid represents D-Thr or L-Thr. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid represents D-allo-Thr or L-allo-Thr. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid represents D-Thr or D-allo-Thr. In one preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid represents D-allo-Thr.

[0100] In one particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 amino acids each independently represent D-Ser or L-Ser. In another particular embodiment, the Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 amino acids each independently represent D-Gln or L-Gln. In another embodiment, the Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 amino acids each independently represent D-Ser or D-Gln. In one preferred embodiment, the Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 amino acids each represent D-Ser.

[0101] Thus, in one particular embodiment, the at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is of the following formula (II):

RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II)

[0102] wherein [0103] Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each independently represent D-Leu, L-Leu, D-IIe or L-IIe, [0104] Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 each independently represent D-Asp, L-Asp, D-Glu or L-Glu, [0105] Xaa.sub.3 represents D-Thr, L-Thr, D-allo-Thr or L-allo-Thr, [0106] Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each independently represent D-Ser, L-Ser, D-Gln or L-Gln, [0107] the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa amino acid residue, and [0108] R represents the group of the following formula (II):

##STR00007## [0109] wherein R is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms, a hydrocarbon chain with 7 carbon atoms comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration, a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, or a hydrocarbon chain with 9 carbon atoms comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0110] In another particular embodiment, the at least one derivative of arthrofactin A has the following formula (II):

RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II)

[0111] wherein [0112] Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4, Xaa.sub.5, Xaa.sub.7, Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each independently represent D-Leu, L-Leu, D-IIe or L-IIe, [0113] Xaa.sub.2 and Xaa.sub.11 each independently represent D-Asp, L-Asp, D-Glu or L-Glu, [0114] Xaa.sub.3 represents D-Thr, L-Thr, D-allo-Thr or L-allo-Thr, [0115] Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each independently represent D-Ser, L-Ser, D-Gln or L-Gln, [0116] the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa amino acid residue, and [0117] R represents the group of the following formula (II):

##STR00008## [0118] wherein R is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms, a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, or a hydrocarbon chain with 9 carbon atoms comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0119] In another particular embodiment, the at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is of the following formula (II):

RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II)

[0120] wherein [0121] Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4 and Xaa.sub.5 each represent D-Leu, Xaa.sub.7 represents L-Leu, and Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each represent L-IIe, [0122] Xaa.sub.2 represents D-Asp and Xaa.sub.11 represents L-Asp or L-Glu, [0123] Xaa.sub.3 represents D-allo-Thr, [0124] Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each represent D-Ser, [0125] the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa.sub.11 amino acid residue, and [0126] R represents the group of the following formula (II):

##STR00009## [0127] wherein R is an alkyl chain with 5 to 9 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0128] In another particular embodiment, the at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is of the following formula (II):

RXaa.sub.1Xaa.sub.2Xaa.sub.3Xaa.sub.4Xaa.sub.5Xaa.sub.6Xaa.sub.7Xaa.sub.8Xaa.sub.9Xaa.sub.10Xaa.sub.11 (II)

[0129] wherein [0130] Xaa.sub.1, Xaa.sub.4 and Xaa.sub.5 each represent D-Leu, Xaa.sub.7 represents L-Leu, and Xaa.sub.9 and Xaa.sub.10 each represent L-IIe, [0131] Xaa.sub.2 represents D-Asp and Xaa.sub.11 represents L-Asp or L-Glu, [0132] Xaa.sub.3 represents D-allo-Thr, [0133] Xaa.sub.6 and Xaa.sub.8 each represent D-Ser, [0134] the hydroxyl group of the Xaa.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the Xaa.sub.11 amino acid residue, and [0135] R represents the group of the following formula (II):

##STR00010## [0136] wherein R is a saturated alkyl chain with 7 carbon atoms, a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, or a hydrocarbon chain with 9 carbon atoms comprising exactly one ethylene unsaturation with a cis or trans configuration.

[0137] In one particular embodiment, said at least one derivative of arthrofactin A is chosen from the group consisting in arthrofactin B, arthrofactin C, arthrofactin D and mixtures thereof,

[0138] arthrofactin B being of the following formula (III):

R.sub.1D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Glu.sub.11 (III), [0139] wherein [0140] the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Glu.sub.11 amino acid residue, and [0141] R.sub.1 represents the group of the following formula (I):

##STR00011## [0142] wherein R.sub.1 is a saturated alkyl chain with 5 to 8 carbon atoms;

[0143] arthrofactin C being of the following formula (IV):

R.sub.2D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp (IV), [0144] wherein [0145] the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp.sub.11 amino acid residue, and [0146] R.sub.2 represents the group of the following formula (IV):

##STR00012## [0147] wherein R.sub.2 is an alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms, comprising exactly one unsaturation;

[0148] arthrofactin D being of the following formula (V):

R.sub.3D-Leu.sub.1D-Asp.sub.2D-allo-Thr.sub.3D-Leu.sub.4D-Leu.sub.5D-Ser.sub.6L-Leu.sub.7D-Ser.sub.8L-IIe.sub.9L-IIe.sub.10L-Asp.sub.11 (V), [0149] wherein [0150] the hydroxyl group of the D-allo-Thr.sub.3 amino acid residue forms an ester bond with the C-terminal carboxyl group of the L-Asp amino acid residue, and [0151] R.sub.3 represents the group of the following formula (V):

##STR00013## [0152] wherein R.sub.3.sup.1 is a saturated alkyl chain with 9 carbon atoms.

[0153] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient of the composition according to the invention, having particularly the moisturizing properties described herein, is a mixture of arthrofactins comprising:

[0154] (i) arthrofactin A of the following formula (IA):

##STR00014##

[0155] (ii) at least one derivative of arthrofactin A, said derivative being of the following formula (IIA) and/or (IIB) and/or (IIC):

##STR00015##

[0156] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient of the composition according to the invention, having particularly the moisturizing properties described herein, is a mixture of arthrofactins comprising:

[0157] (i) arthrofactin A of formula (IA)

[0158] (ii) a derivative of arthrofactin A of formula (IIA)

[0159] (iii) a derivative of arthrofactin A of formula (IIB)

[0160] (iv) a derivative of arthrofactin A of formula (IIC)

[0161] The R, R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 groups as defined above are bound to the N-terminal end of the 1.sup.st amino acid (D-Leu.sub.1 or Xaa.sub.1) of the peptide sequence defined above.

[0162] In one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention mostly comprises arthrofactin A.

[0163] By mostly comprises arthrofactin A is meant herein that arthrofactin A represents at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60%, preferably at least 70% by weight of the mixture of arthrofactins, particularly the group composed of arthrofactin A and derivatives of arthrofactin A as defined above.

[0164] The inventors have demonstrated that the mixture of arthrofactins as defined above was typically obtained by fermentation with the Pseudomonas sp. strain MIS38.

[0165] Thus, in one particular embodiment, the mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention is likely to be obtained by fermentation with the Pseudomonas sp strain MIS38.

[0166] The Pseudomonas sp strain MIS38 is well known to those skilled in the art and is for example described in Morikawa et al. (1993) J. Bacteriol. 175:6459-6466.

[0167] The mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention can be obtained by fermentation with the Pseudomonas sp. strain MIS38, using any fermentation technique well known to the skilled person, for example using the fermentation technique described in Washio et al. (2010) Biosci. Biotechnol. Biochem. 74:992-999. Typically, the Pseudomonas sp. strain MIS38 can be cultivated in LB medium (1% Bactotryptone, 0.5% yeast extract, 0.5% NaCl, pH 7.2) at 30 C. during 48 h. The culture can then be centrifuged and the supernatant recovered and concentrated, for example by ultrafiltration. The mixture of arthrofactins can then be purified from this supernatant by extraction in the solid phase or liquid-liquid extraction.

[0168] The mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention can be obtained particularly using the method described in ChemBioChem, 2012, 13, 2671-2675.

Composition

[0169] The composition according to the invention is particularly a cosmetic composition.

[0170] The mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention can be present in cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a quantity that can be between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 3% by weight, even more preferably between 1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] The composition further comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, in other words odorless, colorless and with no unpleasant appearance, and that does not generate any discomfort such as tingling or tightness unacceptable to the user. In particular, the composition is adapted to topical application on the skin.

[0172] Physiologically acceptable medium thus means a medium compatible with keratinic materials of human beings, in particular with body or face skin.

[0173] The composition according to the invention can include any cosmetic additives usually used in the envisaged application field.

[0174] The invention also relates to a composition comprising a mixture of arthrofactins as defined above and one or several additional moisturizers different from arthrofactin of formula (I) and its arthrofactin derivatives of formula (II), in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0175] Preferably, the additional moisturizers are chosen among glycerol, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, hyaluronic acid, propanediol, threhalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol, glycine, -alanine, taurine, trimethyl glycine, and polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivatives.

[0176] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic method for moisturization of keratinic materials, particularly the skin, comprising or consisting in applying one of the compositions as defined above, on a keratinic material, preferably on the skin. Preferably, the keratinic materials such as the skin are human keratinic materials.

Dosage Forms

[0177] These compositions in which the compounds used according to the invention can be implemented are useful in particular for non-therapeutic care of the skin. They are particularly useful to moisturize the skin, particularly for the treatment of dry skin.

[0178] They can demonstrate their efficiency for non-therapeutic care treatment of the skin, namely for preventive purposes. They can also be used for non-therapeutic treatment of the skin after the appearance of skin moisturization disorders.

[0179] A composition used according to the invention is advantageously adapted for topical application on the skin.

[0180] This composition can be a care composition. Preferably, it is a skin care composition.

[0181] For a topical application on the skin, a composition according to the invention may be in any of the dosage forms conventionally used for this type of application and particularly in the form of aqueous gels, aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions. They may also, by the addition of a fatty or oil phase, be in the form of dispersions such as lotion, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milk, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency such as cream or gel, or multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), microemulsions, ionic and/or non-ionic type vesicle dispersions, or wax/aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared using usual methods.

Aqueous Phase

[0182] The compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use may comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are formulated particularly in aqueous lotions or in a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or in a multiple emulsion (triple oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion) (such emulsions are known and described for example by C. FOX in Cosmetics and ToiletriesNovember 1986Vol 101pages 101-112).

[0183] The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and generally other solvents soluble in water or miscible with water. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water comprise short-chain mono alcohols, for example in C.sub.1-C.sub.4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols.

[0184] The compositions according to the invention preferably have a pH ranging from 3 to 9 depending on the substrate chosen.

[0185] When the composition(s) is (are) in the form of emulsion, it (they) generally contain(s) one several emulsifying surfactants, depending on the nature of the emulsion.

[0186] The total quantity of emulsifiers in the composition(s) according to the invention shall preferably be at contents in active material ranging between 1 and 8% by weight and more particularly between 2 and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty Phase

[0187] The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one organic liquid phase non-miscible in water, known as a fatty phase. This generally includes one or several hydrophobic compounds rendering said phase non-miscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25 C.). Preferentially, the organic liquid phase non-miscible in water according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.

[0188] Oil herein means a fatty body that is liquid at room temperature (25 C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg namely 1.0510.sup.5 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0189] In the context of the invention, the term volatile oil denotes oil capable of evaporating on contact with the keratinic material, such as the skin, in less than an hour at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, having a vapor pressure different from zero at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10.sup.3 to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0190] The term non-volatile oil herein denotes an oil remaining on the keratinic material such as skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10.sup.3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0191] The oil may be chosen from all physiologically acceptable and particularly cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, plant, synthetic oils; in particular, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

[0192] More specifically, the term hydrocarbon oil denotes an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or several functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.Math.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.Math.s and more preferably from 100 to 300,000 mPa.Math.s.

[0193] By way of examples of volatile oils suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0194] volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen among hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoalkanes originating from crude oil (also called isoparaff ins).

[0195] By way of examples of non-volatile oils suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0196] hydrocarbon plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the Stearineries Dubois Company or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel Company, jojoba oil;

[0197] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

[0198] synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0199] synthetic esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alcohol benzoate

[0200] silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), either linear (dimethicones) or cyclic (cyclomethicones).

[0201] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or several cosmetic additives chosen among softeners, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, a fatty phase structuring agent chosen particularly from waxes, pasty compounds, gelling agents; organic or inorganic fillers; thickening or suspension agents, or any other ingredient conventionally used in cosmetics for this type of application.

[0202] Obviously, the skilled person will take care to choose such optional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered, by the envisaged additive(s).

[0203] These optional additives may be present in the composition at 0.001 to 80% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] These additives, depending on their nature, may be introduced in the fatty phase or in the aqueous phase of the composition, or in lipid vesicles. In any case, these additives and their proportions shall be chosen by the skilled person such that the advantageous properties of the mixture according to the invention are not altered or not substantially altered by the envisaged additives.

[0205] As hydrophilic gelling or thickening agents, mention may be made of carboxyvinylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides such as the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14-isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305.sup.e by SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives (for example hydroxyalkylcellu loses, particularly hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose), natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan, and clays; as gelling agents or liphophilic thickeners, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

[0206] The composition according to the invention may further comprise other active constituents such as desquamating agents, depigmenting or propigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, anti-inflammation or soothing agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or that stimulate differentiation of keratinocytes, dermo-relaxing agents, tensor agents, agents acting on microcirculation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, UV filters, odor absorbing agents, or mixtures thereof.

[0207] When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may be between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 8 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier may be present in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] The composition according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a paste, of a gel or of a foam. It can possibly by applied in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, particularly in the form of a stick. It can also be on a support, for example on wipes such as makeup removal wipes.

[0209] The composition according to the invention may form a skin care composition, particularly a cleaning, protection, treatment or care cream for the face, hands or body, such as day creams, night creams, makeup removal creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams, makeup removal milk, a body protection or care milk, a sunscreen milk, a lotion, gel or foam for skin care such as a makeup lotion.

[0210] The composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care composition, particularly a moisturizing composition.

[0211] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a care composition for dry skins.

[0212] The composition according to the invention may also be a makeup composition, and particularly a foundation.

[0213] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of a mixture of arthrofactins as defined above as active ingredient, or a composition according to the invention comprising this mixture of arthrofactins as active ingredient, onto keratinic materials, particularly the skin.

[0214] In particular, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention is for the treatment of keratinic materials, particularly the skin, especially dry skin, and more particularly dry human skin.

[0215] Thus, in one particular embodiment, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises application of the mixture of arthrofactins or the composition containing this mixture on dry skin, particularly on face skin, especially on the forehead and/or neck, and/or on the skin of the hands or feet.

[0216] This invention also relates to non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a mixture of arthrofactins as defined above, as moisturizer for keratinic materials, particularly the skin, mucosa and/or keratinic fibers, preferably the skin, even more preferably dry skin.

[0217] The inventors have shown that the mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention activated genes associated with moisturization in keratinocytes and therefore had an important moisturizing power.

[0218] Thus, in one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used to prevent and/or to treat states of dryness of the skin and/or signs associated with dryness of the skin, such as skins with a rough visual appearance or rough texture to the touch, discomforts such as itching and/or tightness associated with dry skin. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used to improve moisturization of the skin.

[0219] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used to treat constitutional non-pathological dry skins or acquired non-pathological dry skins.

[0220] Constitutional non-pathological dry skins are dry skins for which the severity can depend on external factors, such as exposure to chemicals, severe weather conditions or solar radiation. This skin category includes senile skin (characterized by a general reduction of skin metabolism with age) and fragile skin.

[0221] Acquired non-pathological dry skins are skins for which dryness is induced by the external factors mentions above.

[0222] The expressions comprised between . . . and . . . and ranging from . . . to . . . , or at least . . . must be understood as including the limits, unless mentioned otherwise.

[0223] Throughout the following, percentages are given by weight unless mentioned otherwise.

[0224] The following examples illustrate the invention, and are given purely for illustrative and non-limitative purposes.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

[0225] The MIS38 strain was cultivated in a King'B medium at 28 C., 120 rpm and 4 vvm. At the end of fermentation, the culture medium was clarified by centrifuging and the supernatant obtained was concentrated by ultrafiltration (MWCO 10 kDa). Control of the transmembrane pressure within an appropriate concentration interval makes it possible to measure a concentration 7 times higher in the supernatant, that is then diafiltered twice to eliminate residual contamination in the culture medium. This fraction is then dry concentrated until obtaining a dry powder.

Example 2.1

The Mixture of Arthrofactins according to the Invention has a Moisturizing Power

[0226] This example shows that the mixture of arthrofactins according to the invention activates the genes associated with hydration, in transcriptome, in keratinocytes.

[0227] K266 human epidermic keratinocytes were seeded in wells (50,000 cells/well) and cultivated in a Dermalife K medium (Lifeline LL-007) for 3 days at 37 C. and 5% of CO.sub.2. At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by a test medium (K Dermalife supplemented with 1.5 mM CaCl.sub.2) containing or not containing (control) the mixture of arthrofactins obtained in example 1 in the form of a powder diluted to 0.1% in water or references (retinoic acid at 0.1 M and 1 M, or retinol at 10 M). The cells were then incubated for 24 hours.

[0228] In parallel, normal human keratinocytes (NHK, 01.12) were seeded in wells (50,000 cells/well) and cultivated in a COMPLETE KGM medium (KGM BULLETKIT, LONZA, CC-3111) for 3 days at 37 C. and 5% of CO.sub.2. At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by a test medium (KGM supplemented with 1.5 mM CaCl.sub.2) containing or not containing (control) the mixture of arthrofactins described in example 1 or the references (retinoic acid at 0.1 M and 1 M, or retinol at 10 M). The cells were then incubated for 24 hours.

[0229] References such as 0.1 M and 1 M retinoic acid, or retinol at 10 M are used as global controls of good keratinocyte response.

[0230] At the end of the treatment, the culture media were eliminated, the cells were rinsed twice with PBS (w/o CaCl.sub.2, w/o MgCl.sub.2) before being lysed. Wells of the same condition were regrouped in pairs, and RNA was then extracted by magnetic beads using the Ambion isolation kit: MagMAX-96 Total RNA Isolation Kit, reference AM1830.

[0231] The quantification of RNA and quality control were analyzed using LabChip GX (Perkin Elmer). Reverse transcription (RT) of RNA into cDNA was carried out using the Quantitect inverse transcription kit (QIAGEN) following the manufacturer's recommendations. For this step, RNA was diluted to 1 g/ml in RNase-free water based on the sample of each concentration of RNA.

[0232] After elimination of genomic DNA, the samples were mixed with the Master Mix (Quantiscript Reverse Transcriptase, Quantiscript RT Buffer and RT Primer Mix) and then incubated at 42 C. for 15 minutes before being inactivated at 95 C.

[0233] The expression of selected transcripts was then analyzed by quantitative PCR using a LightCycler 480 Real-Time PCR System 384-well plate system (Roche) using the SYBRGreen incorporation technique (Roche).

[0234] It is observed that the mixture of arthrofactins of example 1 at 0.002 mg/L and 0.01 mg/L in water strongly activates genes associated with moisturization in keratinocytes cultivated in vitro.

[0235] Under these conditions, the arthrofactin tested at 0.01 mg/mL stimulated the expression of markers involved in creation of the corneal layer (TGMS, LCE3D, FLG2, SPRR1A, CNFN, ELOVL3) and the transport of solutes (AQP9). This reinforcement of the corneal layer enables limiting water losses and therefore ultimately improves moisturization of the epidermis. Furthermore, stimulation of the expression of SCNN1A and SCNN1D was also observed. These two markers are involved in the regulation of ENaC, that is a sodium channel that plays a role in the regulation of hydric flows of the epidermis.

Example 2.2

Comparative Example Outside the Scope of the Invention: Test of the Power Capacity of Surfactin

[0236] This example shows that surfactin (compound outside the scope of the invention) leads to a lower expression of genes associated with moisturization, in transcriptome, in keratinocytes, than the expression induced by the mixture of arthrofactins according to example 1.

[0237] K266 human epidermic keratinocytes were seeded in wells (50,000 cells/well) and cultivated in a Dermalife K medium (Lifeline LL-007) for 3 days at 37 C. and 5% of CO.sub.2. At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by a test medium (K Dermalife supplemented with 1.5 mM CaCl.sub.2) containing or not containing (control) surfactin in the form of a sodium salt (Aminofect marketed by KANEKA) diluted to 0.1% in water or references (retinoic acid at 0.1 M and 1 M, or retinol at 10 M). The cells were then incubated for 24 hours.

[0238] In parallel, normal human keratinocytes (NHK, 01.12) were seeded in wells (50,000 cells/well) and cultivated in a COMPLETE KGM medium (KGM BULLETKIT, LONZA, CC-3111) for 3 days at 37 C. and 5% of CO.sub.2. At the end of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by a test medium (KGM supplemented with 1.5 mM CaCl.sub.2) containing or not containing (control) surfactin in the form of a sodium salt (Aminofect marketed by KANEKA) diluted to 0.1% in water or the references (retinoic acid at 0.1 M and 1 M, or retinol at 10 M). The cells were then incubated for 24 hours.

[0239] References such as 0.1 M and 1 M retinoic acid, or retinol at 10 M are used as global controls of good keratinocyte response.

[0240] At the end of the treatment, the culture media were eliminated, cells were rinsed twice with PBS (w/o CaCl.sub.2, w/o MgCl.sub.2) before being lysed. Wells of the same condition were regrouped in pairs, and RNA was then extracted by magnetic beads using the Ambion isolation kit: MagMAX-96 Total RNA Isolation Kit, reference AM1830.

[0241] The quantification of RNA and quality control were analyzed using LabChip GX (Perkin Elmer). Reverse transcription (RT) of RNA into cDNA was carried out using the Quantitect inverse transcription kit (QIAGEN) following the manufacturer's recommendations. For this step, RNA was diluted to 1 g/ml in RNase-free water based on the sample of each concentration of RNA.

[0242] After elimination of genomic DNA, the samples were mixed with the Master Mix (Quantiscript Reverse Transcriptase, Quantiscript RT Buffer and RT Primer Mix) and then incubated at 42 C. for 15 minutes before being inactivated at 95 C.

[0243] The expression of selected transcripts was then analyzed by quantitative PCR using a LightCycler 480 Real-Time PCR System 384-well plate system (Roche) using the SYBRGreen incorporation technique (Roche).

[0244] It is observed that surfactin at 0.002 mg/L and 0.01 mg/L in water leads to a lower expression of genes associated with moisturization in keratinocytes cultivated in vitro than the expression induced by the mixture of arthrofactins according to example 1 for the same concentrations, as shown in Table 1. The markers for which the expression is measured are particularly involved in the constitution of the corneal layer (TGM5, LCE3D, FLG2, SPRR1A, CNFN, ELOVL3), transport of solutes (AQP9), and markers involved in regulation of ENaC (SCNN1A and SCNN1D).

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Compound tested Mixture of Mixture of arthrofactins at Sodium arthrofactins at Sodium 0.002 mg/L Surfactin at 0.01 mg/L Surfactin at Level (according 0.002 (according to 0.01 of expression to the mg/L the mg/L of moisturization invention (outside invention (outside markers* example 1) invention) example 1) invention) Group I TGM5, ++ ++++ + markers LCE3D, involved in FLG2, constitution SPRR1A, of the CNFN, corneal ELOVL3 layer Group II AQP9 + +++ Marker involved in the transport of solutes Group III SCNN1A ++ +++ markers SCNN1D involved in the regulation of ENaC *expression levels are presented in the form of an average value per group of biomarkers.

Example 3

Compositions for Topical Application

[0245]

TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Compound according to example 1 4% Glycerol monostearate 0.8% Cetyl alcohol 2.0% Stearyl alcohol 5.0% Polyoxyethylene stearate (20 OE) 3.0% Cross-linked acrylic acid (CARBOPOL 941) 0.3% Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12.0% Preservatives q.s. Water qsp 100.0%
The exemplified cosmetic formulation applied on the skin shows a good skin moisturization effect.

Example 4

Other Compositions for Topical Application

[0246]

TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Compound according to example 1 4% Cross-linked acrylic acid (CARBOPOL 941) 0.3% Preservatives q.s. Water qsp 100.0%
The exemplified cosmetic formulation applied on the skin shows a good skin moisturization effect.