Two-phase make-up removal composition

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition composed of an aqueous phase and a separate water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion including at least 20% by weight of an oil phase in relation to the total weight of the composition; and the composition including an emulsifying system containing an inulin derivative, a lysophospholipid, a poloxamer, a polypropylene glycol buteth, and a derivative of hydrogenated castor oil.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition composed of an aqueous phase and a separate water-in-oil or oil-in-water phase, the composition comprising an emulsifying system containing an inulin derivative, a lysophospholipid, a poloxamer, a polypropylene glycol buteth and a derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, and said water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least 20% by weight of an oil phase in relation to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising gluconolactone and/or sodium benzoate.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the global aqueous phase:oily phase ratio is between 40:60 and 80:20.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase is present with a content of between 20% and 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying system is present with a content of between 2% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the derivative of inulin is an inulin carbamoyl with an alkyl isocyanate.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the derivative of inulin is an inulin carbamoyl with lauryl isocyanate.

8. The composition of claim 7, wherein said derivative is inulin lauryl carbamate.

9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polypropylene glycol buteth satisfies the following formula (II): ##STR00005## in which x and y are integers that may be identical or different, between 1 and 50.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein x and y are integers that may be identical or different, between 10 and 35.

11. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polypropylene glycol buteth is chosen from among PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-9-buteth-12, PPG-26-buteth-26 and PPG-28-buteth-35, and/or wherein the derivative of hydrogenated castor oil is an oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil.

12. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the poloxamer satisfies the following formula (III): ##STR00006## in which x and y are integers that may be identical or different, between 1 and 50.

13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the lysophospholipid is lysophosphatidylcholin, that has following formula: ##STR00007## in which R is a fatty acid chain, in particular comprising 10 to 25 carbon atoms.

14. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from among mineral oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils.

15. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one antifoaming agent.

16. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the compositino has a pH of about 4.3 +/ 0.3.

17. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase is present with a content of between 25% and 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying system is present with a content of between 3% and 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

19. Method of preparing a composition according to claim 1, including the following steps: a) mix an inulin derivative, a lysophospholipid, a poloxamer, a polypropylene glycol buteth and a derivative of hydrogenated castor oil with water, in order to obtain an aqueous phase; b) obtain the oily phase, particularly with at least one oil, that can be a mineral, vegetable or synthetic oil; c) introduction of the oily phase obtained in b) into the aqueous phase obtained in a) to obtain the emulsion.

20. Cosmetic method of make-up removal, cleaning and/or care of the skin, eyes and/or appendages, wherein a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied on the skin, eyes and/or appendages.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

Choice of the Emulsifying System

(1) a) The following raw materials are used in the following examples: inulin lauryl carbamate (mixed with glycerine): Inutec SL1; mixture of PPG-26-buteth-26 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil: Solubilisant LRI; poloxamer 184: Synperonic PE L64; glycerine (and) glycine soybean seed extract: Lysofix Liquid; coconut alkanes (and) coco-caprylate/caprate: Vegelight 1214LC; triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids: Miglyol 812N.

(2) The following formulations 1 to 7 are prepared, and the foam obtained after shaking is evaluated. Formulations 5 and 6 comprise 3 of the emulsifiers according to the invention, while formulations 1 to 4 and 7 are comparative.

(3) TABLE-US-00001 Test No. Oily phase Aqueous phase Comments 1 Caprylic/capric Lysofix: 3.5% aerated foam that triglycerides: 10% Inutec SL1: 3% collapses more Vegelight 1214LC: Tegobetaine: 0% quickly 20% unstable at 2 months 2 Lysofix: 3.5% foams only slightly Inutec SL1: 0% and forms large Tegobetaine: 3% bubbles unstable at 15 days 3 Lysofix: 3.5% aerated foam that Inutec SL1: 1% collapses more Aminol LS 30 quickly (sodium lauroyl unstable at 3 weeks sarcosinate): 2% 4 Lysofix: 3.5% foams slightly and Inutec SL1: 1% forms medium-sized Appygreen 812 bubbles (decyl glucoside unstable at 3 months (and) xylose (and) decyl alcohol (and) water): 1% 5 Lysofix: 3.5% foams very slightly Inutec SL1: 1% Synperonic PE L64: 0.7% 6 Lysofix: 3.5% foams very slightly Inutec SL1: 1% Synperonic PE L64: 0.5% 7 Lysofix: 3.5% aerated foam that Inutec SL1: 1% collapses more Plantacare 200UP quickly (decyl glucoside): unstable at 2 months 1.5%

(4) The results show that the combination of the derivative of inulin (Inutec SL1), lysophospholipid (Lysofix Liquid) and poloxamer (Synperonic) foams very slightly, unlike other combinations. b) Stability of the formulation:

(5) Formulations 8 to 17 in the following table were prepared. The initial formulation is formula 5 in the above table. Only formulation 13 complies with the invention.

(6) TABLE-US-00002 Initial formulation Ingredient (called fle) 8 9 10 11 12 13* 14 15 16 17 water Qs sodium Rectapure 0.7 potassium sorbate 0.5 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 10 (Mygliol 812N) HYDROGENATED COCONUT ACID & 20 COCOCAPRYLATE/CAPRATE (Vegelight 1214LC) GLYCERINE & INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE 1 (Inutech SL1) GLYCERINE & GLYCINE SOJA 3.5 (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT (Lysofix Liquid) POLOXAMER 184 0.7 (Synperonic PE L64) SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 0.15 (SPAN 83) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE & 0.15 POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYCASTOROLEATE (ARLACEL 1690) PEG-10 dimethicone 0.15 (DC ES 5612) Polysorbate 81 0.15 (TWEEN 81) POLYGLYCERYL 10 LAURATE 0.15 (DERMOFEEL G10L) PPG-26-BUTETH-26 & 40% PEG 40 0.15 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL (Solubilisant LRI) Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 0.15 (DC ES-5226) CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE & 0.15 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE (ABIL EM 180) PEG-8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES 0.15 0.35 (L.A.S)

(7) The following comments were made:

(8) For the initial formulation, immediately after shaking, a transparent bottom and a surface emulsion are observed with slight foaming At D+1, the aqueous phase is transparent but the surface has an oily exudate appearance.

(9) The following table contains comments on the other formulations:

(10) TABLE-US-00003 Formulation 8 9 10 11 12 13* 14 15 16 17 Immediate slight slight considerable very slight fairly slight foam more slight slight observation foaming foaming foaming foaming considerable foaming equivalent to foaming than foaming foaming after shaking less less than aqueous foaming equivalent fle fle less than fle but than fle phase at more than fle to fle limited fle the bottom area but white with emulsion on the surface Foam 2 4 10 1 9 7 8 6 3 classification Observation cloudy cloudy non- separated slight slightly transparent transparent transparent d + 1 aqueous aqueous homogeneous emulsion presence of cloudy aqueous phase aqueous aqueous phase at phase at interface oily phase foam always aqueous but non- phase at phase bottom bottom slightly cloudy separation present phase homogeneous bottom a slight limited limited aqueous therefore surface water- few bubbles exudation exudatiom exudatiom phase and visually with emulsion on the on surface area area upper impossible to presence of interface surface but interface oily see oily a few presence of no phase exudation phase bubbles bubbles separation limit separation slightly cloudy aqueous phase Quality 2 5 8 9 4 1 7 6 3 classification at D + 1 Formulation 13 (13*) is the only formulation according to the invention, the others are comparative.

(11) The results thus show that formulation 13, that comprises a polypropylene glycol buteth and a derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, and that is a formulation according to the invention, has little foam and an aqueous phase with an attractive appearance. This is the only tested formulation that does not have much foam and that is stable.

EXAMPLE 2

Stability of Compositions Obtained

(12) The stability of the following compositions 18 to 28 is evaluated.

(13) TABLE-US-00004 Aqueous phase Test No. Oily phase TA system Preservatives Stability Comments 18 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% K Sorbate 0.5% 3 months: KO Stability not Triglycerides: 10% Synperonic PE conforming Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% LC 20: % Solubilisant LRI KM-72S 1% 1% 19 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% K Sorbate 0.5% 2 months: KO at Stability not Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE 40 C. and 45 C. conforming Isohexadecane 20% L64 0.7% KM-72S 1% Solubilisant LRI 1% 20 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Pentylene Glycol 2.25% 1 month: KO Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% emulsion phase Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% KO at 40 C. and LC 20% Solubilisant LRI 45 C. KM-72S 1% 1% 21 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Methylparaben 0.2% 1 month: Stable Limit Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE Phenoxyethanol 0.5% limit emulsion Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% Float at all LC 20% Solubilisant LRI temperatures KM-72S 1% 1% 22 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% propanediol & 1 month: stable Limit Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE phenethyl alcohol & limit emulsion Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% undecyl alcohol & Float at all LC 20% Solubilisant LRI tocopherol temperatures KM-72S 1% 1% (Sensiva PA-30) 2% 23 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% propanediol & emulsion phase KO Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE phenethyl alcohol & KO at D + 15 Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% undecyl alcohol & LC 20% Solubilisant LRI tocopherol KM-72S 1% 1% (Sensiva PA-40) 2% 24 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Caprylyl Glycol (and) 4 phases at D + 1 KO Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE Glyceryl Caprylate Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% (and) Glycerine (and) LC 20% Solubilisant LRI Phenylpropanol KM-72S 1% 1% (Dermosoft LP) 4% 25 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Methylparaben 0.25% 1 month: OK Stability not Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE Propylparaben 0.1% 3 months: KO conforming Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% Recrystallisation LC 20% Solubilisant LRI of parabens KM-72S 1% 1% 26 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Methylparaben 3 months: KO Stability not Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE 0.25% + 1% Glycerin conforming Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% Propylparaben 0.1% Recrystallisation LC 20% Solubilisant LRI of parabens KM-72S 1% 1% 27 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% Methylparaben 3 months: KO at Stability not Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE 0.25% + 1% Glycerin 45 conforming Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% Propylparaben 0.1% LC 10% Solubilisant LRI Isohexadecane 10% 1% KM-72S 1% 28 Caprylic/Capric Lysofix 3.5% gluconolactone & 3 months OK Stability Triglycerides 10% Synperonic PE sodium benzoate & conforming Vegelight 1214 L64 0.7% calcium gluconate LC 10% Solubilisant LRI (Geogard Ultra) 2% Isohexadecane 10% 1% KM-72S 1% (with or without Inutec SL1 1%) KO = not stable

(14) The results thus show that the composition comprising the surfactant system and a preservative according to the invention is stable.

EXAMPLE 3

Composition

(15) A composition according to the invention is prepared with the following ingredients (percentages are by weight of the total composition): water qsp 0.7% NaCl 7.2% glycerine 2% GLUCONOLACTONE & SODIUM BENZOATE & CALCIUM GLUCONATE (GEOGARD ULTRA) 9.8% caprylic/capric triglyceride (Mygliol 812N) 10% hydrogenated coconut acid & coco-caprylate/caprate (VEGELIGHT 1214 LC) 9.98% isohexadecane (Creasil IHGC) 0.1% simethicone (XIAMETER ACP-1500) 1% inulin lauryl carbamate & glycerine (INUTEC SL1) 3.5% glycerine & glycine soybean seed extract (LYSOFIX LIQUID) 0.7% poloxamer 184 (SYNPERONIC PE L64) 1% PPG-26-buteth-26 & PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil (SOLUBILISANT LRI)