COMPOSITION OF GEL/GEL TYPE BASED ON HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENTS AND A LIQUID FATTY ACID AND/OR A GLYCOL COMPOUND

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, containing: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates, fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture and said composition also comprising: at least one hydrophobic-coated pigment; and at least one liquid fatty acid of formula (1) below:

##STR00001##

in which R is chosen from:
a) a saturated, branched C.sub.14-C.sub.22, preferably C.sub.18, alkyl group, or
b) an alkyl group comprising at least one linear or branched C.sub.14-C.sub.22, preferably C.sub.18, double bond; and/or at least one glycol compound of formula (2) below:

CH.sub.3[CH.sub.2CH.sub.2].sub.m[COO].sub.nCH.sub.2CH(OH)CH.sub.2OH (2)

in which: m is between 2 and 4 n is equal to 0 or 1; said gelled oily phase comprising at least one polar oil when the composition comprises at least one glycol compound of formula (2); said gelled aqueous phase comprising at least one synthetic polymeric gelling agent and said gelled oily phase comprising at least one polar oil when the composition comprises at least one glycol compound of formula (2).

Claims

1: A composition, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates, fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent, said aqueous phase and oily phase forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, the composition further comprising: at least one hydrophobic-coated pigment; and at least one liquid fatty acid of formula (1) below: ##STR00070## wherein R is chosen from: a) a saturated, branched C.sub.14-C.sub.22 alkyl group, or b) an alkyl group comprising at least one linear or branched C.sub.14-C.sub.22 double bond; and/or at least one glycol compound of formula (2) below:
CH.sub.3[CH.sub.2CH.sub.2].sub.m[COO].sub.nCH.sub.2CH(OH)CH.sub.2OH (2) wherein: m is between 2 and 4, and n is equal to 0 or 1, said gelled oily phase comprising at least one polar oil when the composition comprises at least one glycol compound of formula (2), and said gelled aqueous phase comprising at least one synthetic polymeric gelling agent and said gelled oily phase comprising at least one polar oil when the composition comprises at least one glycol compound of formula (2).

2: The composition according to claim 1, comprising, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one synthetic polymeric gelling agent.

3: The composition according to claim 2, wherein the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.

4: The composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers comprising hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof.

5: The composition according to claim 1, comprising as lipophilic gelling agent at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer selected from the group consisting of Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3.

6: The composition according to claim 1, comprising, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer or copolymer/organopolysiloxane elastomer system.

7: The composition according to claim 1, comprising the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 95/5 to 5/95.

8: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are hydrophobic coated pigments of iron oxide and/or of titanium dioxide.

9: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic-coated pigments are coated with at least one compound selected from the group consisting of N-acylamino acids or salts thereof, isopropyl titanium triisostearate; silicone surface agents; natural plant or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

10: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic-coated pigments are titanium dioxides and/or iron oxides coated: with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof; or with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

11: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty acid of formula (1) is selected from the group consisting of: isostearic acid; oleic acid; linoleic acid; linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.

12: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (2) is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprylate/caprate mixtures, and mixtures thereof.

13: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar oil is chosen from liquid lipophilic organic UV-screening agents.

14: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar oil is chosen from: volatile cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and containing in particular from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain.

15: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils.

16: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar oil is at least one selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, caprylyl methicone, and mixtures thereof.

17: A process for preparing a composition according to claim 1, comprising mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one hydrophobic-coated pigment and at least one compound of formula (1).

18: The process according to claim 17, comprising mixing at least three gelled phases.

19: The process according to claim 17, wherein the mixing is performed at room temperature.

20: A cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, comprising applying a composition according to claim 1 to the keratin material.

Description

EXAMPLE 1 OF FOUNDATION IN GEL-GEL FORM

[1324]

TABLE-US-00001 Example Example 1 (in- 1A (in- Phases Ingredients vention) vention) A Trimethyl siloxysilicate 5 5 B Cyclohexasiloxane 7 7 Titanium dioxide Isopropyl Titanium 11.91 11.91 Triisostearate (BTD-401 from Kobo) Iron oxides (and) Isopropyl titanium 0.43 0.43 Triisostearate (BRO-I2 from Kobo) Iron oxides (and) Isopropyl titanium 1.46 1.46 Triisostearate (BYO-I2 from Kobo) Iron oxides (and) Isopropyl Titanium 0.2 0.2 Triisostearate (BBO-I2 from Kobo) B1 Polysilicone-11 11.5 11.5 (Gransil RPS-D6 from Grant Industries) C Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Butylene glycol 5 5 Glycerol 5 5 Isostearic acid 0.2 0.2 (Prisorine 3505-LQ-(GD) from Croda) Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Glyceryl caprylate 0.5 0.5 (Dermosoft GMCY- Dr Straetemans) Propanediol 3 3 C1 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 1.25 1.25 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) D Polymethyl methacrylate 1.8 1.8 (Microsphere M-310 from Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku) Lauryl methacrylate/Glycol 0.5 0.5 Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (Polytrap 6603 Adsorber from Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions) Silica silylate 0.35 0.35 (Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles)

Procedure:

[1325] C was placed in a beaker with moderate stirring using a Rayneri blender. C1 was added, and the gel thickened and became homogeneous after 5 minutes of vigorous stirring with the Rayneri blender. Phase B was ground in 3 treatments (large, medium and then small aperture) using a three-roll mill. The mixture was then placed under slow stirring with the Rayneri blender, followed by addition of B1. When the mixture was homogeneous, A was added very slowly by sprinkling with slow stirring using the Rayneri blender for about 45 minutes until the mixture was homogeneous. Mixture A+B+B1 was added to C+C1 with vigorous stirring using the Rayneri blender for 22 minutes. The composition then became homogeneous. D was added with vigorous stirring using the Rayneri blender for 210 minutes until the fillers were fully dispersed in the mixture.

[1326] The macroscopic appearance of formulae 1 and 1A was measured with the naked eye after 2 months at room temperature (25 C.). There were placed on glass plmates. A smooth and glossy aspect of a formulation corresponds to a homogeneous macroscopic composition.

[1327] Contrarily to the formulation 1A without liquid fatty acid of formula (1), formulation 1 comprising a liquid fatty acid compound of formula (1) (ie: isostearic acid) has a smooth, glossy and homogeneous macroscopic appearance after 24 hours.

EXAMPLES 2 TO 3

[1328]

TABLE-US-00002 Exemple 2 (outside the Exemple 3 Exemple 4 Phase Ingrdients invention) (invention) (invention) A WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 GLYCERIN 5.28 5.28 5.28 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.78 0.78 0.78 B DIMETHICONE 8 8 8 DIMETHICONE (and) 14 14 14 DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER ISOSTEARIC ACID 0 0.2 0 OLEIC ACID 0 0 0.2 C HYDROXYETHYL 2.4 2.4 2.4 ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER D IRON OXIDES (and) 1.899 1.899 1.899 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (CI 77492) IRON OXIDES (and) 0.396 0.396 0.396 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (CI 77491) IRON OXIDES (and) 0.099 0.099 0.099 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (CI 77499) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 15.597 15.597 15.597 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (CI 77891) SYNTHETIC 1.999 1.999 1.999 FLUORPHLOGOPITE

[1329] The ingredients of the aqueous phase A were weighed out and stirred using a Rayneri blender at room temperature. Then, the ingredients of the oily phase B and hydrophilic gelling agent phase C were added to the aqueous phase and mixed under Rayneri stirring. A white and translucid gel gel was formed. When the gel gel was smooth and uniform, the phase D was added under strong stirring until complete homogenization using a spatula. The walls and base of the beaker were scraped using a spatula and the mixture was left to homogenize with vigorous stirring at room temperature until completely homogeneous.

[1330] The macroscopic appearance of formulae 2 to 3 was measured with the naked eye after 24 hours at room temperature (25 C.). There were placed on glass plates. A smooth and glossy aspect of a formulation corresponds to a homogeneous macroscopic composition.

TABLE-US-00003 Macroscopic appearance after Examples 24 hours at 25 C. Ex. 2 (outside the Less glossy and less invention) homogeneous Without liquid fatty acid Ex. 3 (invention) Smooth and glossy With Isostearic acid homogeneous texture Ex. 4 (invention) Smooth and glossy With Oleic acid homogeneous texture

EXAMPLES 5 TO 12 OF FOUNDATIONS IN GEL-GEL FORM

[1331]

TABLE-US-00004 Phase: INCI name Ex. 5* Ex. 6* Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Ex. 12 A1 Dimethicone 6.0 6.0 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.0 6.0 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 6.0 6.0 (Parsol MCX) Caprylyl methicone 6.0 (Dow Corning FZ-3196) Isohexadecane 6.0 A2 Dimethicone crosspolymer 9.0 9.0 9.0 (and) dimethicone (Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend) Polysilicone-11 (and) 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 cyclohexasiloxane (Gransil RPS-D6 from Grant Industries) Vinyl dimethicone/lauryl 9.0 dimethicone crosspolymer (and) isododecane (KSG-42 from Shin-Etsu) B Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glyceryl caprylate 0.5 0.5 (Dermosoft GMCY from Dr Straetmans) Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC) C Titanium dioxide (and) 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide (NAI-TAO-77891 from Myoshi Kasei) Iron oxides (and) disodium 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide (NAI-C33-8001-10 from Myoshi Kasei) Iron oxides (and) disodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide (NAI-C33-7001-10 from Myoshi Kasei) Iron oxides (and) disodium 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminium hydroxide (NAI-C33-9001-10 from Myoshi Kasei) D Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 *outside the invention

[1332] The foundation formulations 5 to 12 were prepared as described below.

[1333] The components of phases A1 and A2 were weighed out and stirred using a Rayneri blender at room temperature. The components of phase B were weighed out and stirred using a Rayneri blender at room temperature. The components of phase B, C and D were added to phase A and stirred vigorously with a Rayneri blender at room temperature. The walls and base of the beaker were scraped using a spatula and the mixture was left to homogenize with vigorous stirring at room temperature until completely homogeneous. A gel-gel composition was formed.

[1334] The macroscopic appearance of formulae 2 to 8 was measured with the naked eye after 2 months at room temperature (25 C.). The results are given in the table below.

TABLE-US-00005 Macroscopic appearance after Examples 2 months at 25 C. Ex. 5 (outside the Granular texture, which changes invention) Ex. 6 (outside the Granular texture, which changes invention) Ex. 7 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture Ex. 8 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture Ex. 9 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture Ex. 10 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture Ex. 11 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture Ex. 12 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture

[1335] The results showed that formulations 2 and 3 (outside the invention) comprising a glycol compound of formula (1) (caprylyl glycol or glycol caprylate) and an oily phase comprising at least one apolar silicone oil of the linear polydimethylsiloxane type (dimethicone) had a heterogeneous macroscopic appearance after 2 months of storage at 25 C., in contrast with formulations 4 to 9 comprising a glycol compound of formula (1) (caprylyl glycol or glycol caprylate) and an oily phase comprising at least one polar oil (cyclohexasiloxane, caprylyl methicone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate).

Comparative Tests Showing the Influence of the Glycol of Formula (1)

[1336] The formulation of example 8 as above defined was compared to a counter-type example 8A which was identical but without glyceryl caprylate. The example 8A was prepared according to the same conditions as the example 8.

[1337] The macroscopic appearance of formulae 8 and 8A was measured with the naked eye after 24 hours at room temperature (25 C.). The results are given in the table below:

TABLE-US-00006 Macroscopic appearance after Examples 24 hours at 25 C. Ex. 8 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture with glyceryl caprylate No separation of the two phases Ex. 8A (outside the invention) Heterogenous texture, Separation without glyceryl caprylate of the two phases

Tests Comparing the Nature of the Hydrophilic Gelling Agent.

[1338] The formulation of example 8 as above defined was compared to a counter-type example 8B which was identical but containing as hydrophilic gelling agent: SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH (GLYCOLIS from the company Roquette) instead of the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic agent: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from the company SEPPIC) at the same amount 2.4% by weight relative to the total composition. The example 8B was prepared according to the same conditions as the example 8.

[1339] The macroscopic appearance of formulae 4 and 4 was measured with the naked eye after 24 hours at room temperature (25 C.). The results are given in the table below:

TABLE-US-00007 Macroscopic appearance after Examples 24 hours at 25 C. Ex. 8 (invention) Smooth, homogeneous texture with Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium No separation of the two phases Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer Ex. 8B (outside the invention) Heterogenous texture, Separation with SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL of the two phases STARCH