ANTI-ACNE COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase: at least one anti-acne active agent; and hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid),
and uses thereof.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: at least one anti-acne active agent; and hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid), wherein the weight ratio of active material of poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid):(hydroxyethylcellulose) ranges from 3:1 to 30:1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anti-acne agent is chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives; niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters; peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and peroxides of organic acids; metal gluconate; asiatic acid, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone; citronellic acid, perillic acid, glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether, glyceryl caprylate/caprate; sodium calcium phosphosilicate; silver-based particles; hop cone extract (Humulus lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO.sub.2 extraction, St. John's Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO.sub.2 extraction, the mixture of extracts of roots of Scutellaria baicalensis, of Paeonia suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra, argan tree extract; bearberry leaf extracts; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone, malachite powder, zinc oxide, octadecenedioic acid; ellagic acid; 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 1-(3′,4′-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4′-chlorophenyl)urea, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide, 3′,4′,5′-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anti-acne agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, and optionally at least one polyol and/or at least one organic solvent miscible with water.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises sodium hyaluronate.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein hydroxyethylcellulose is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) is crosslinked or non-crosslinked; and/or is partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base or an organic base, and mixtures of these compounds.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of active material of poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid):(hydroxyethylcellulose) ranges from 4:1 to 25:1.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which further comprises at least one surfactant and/or a fatty phase and/or at least one crosslinked starch.

13. The composition according to claim 1, which has a pH of less than 4.5.

14. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an emollient.

15. A non-therapeutic method for treating a keratin material comprising the step of applying the composition according to claim 1 to the keratin material.

16. A method for treating acne, comprising the step of applying the composition according to claim 1 onto skin.

17. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the anti-acne agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, and optionally at least one polyol and/or at least one organic solvent miscible with water.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of a Composition According to the Present Invention and Comparative Compositions

[0140] Formula A according to the invention, and comparative compositions B to H (indicated by a star in the following tables) were prepared according to the amounts given in the table below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

[0141] The protocol is as follows:

1/ Heat about 88% of the WATER, the TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE and the SALICYLIC ACID until about 70° C. under stirring at about 200 RPM.
2/ When the temperature reaches about 70° C., add the SODIUM HYDROXIDE and wait until total disappearing of the SALICYLIC ACID powder. Maintain that temperature.
3/ Add the SODIUM HYALURONATE very slowly and give it 15 minutes to swell.
4/ Add the AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE slowly and give it 20 minutes to swell until the formulation becomes a totally clear gel. Adjust the speed to about 600 RPM during this step.
5/ Maintain the speed at about 600 RPM, add the HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE and give it 15 minutes to swell.
6/ Add the melted GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE, and give it 10 minutes to disperse while maintaining the temperature.
7/ Start reducing the temperature and when it reaches 60° C., slowly add the HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE and give it 20 minutes to disperse.
8/ In a separate beaker, use a particle disperser to disperse the TITANIUM DIOXIDE into the DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL. At around 55° C., add the TITANIUM DIOXIDE mixture into the main vessel.
9/ At around 35° C., add the DIMETHICONE, and reduce the speed of the stirrer to about 400 RPM.
10/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the ZINC GLUCONATE in about 6% of the WATER. At around 35° C., add the mixture to the main vessel.
11/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the NIACINAMIDE in the about 6% of the WATER. In order to facilitate the dissolution, heating to about 30° C. can help. At around 35° C., add the mixture to the main vessel.
12/ When the temperature reaches 30° C., add the ISODODECANE.
13/ If needed adjust the pH to 4.2±0.3.
14/ In a separate beaker dissolve the MENTHOL into the PERFUME. When the preparation reaches room temperature, add the mixture to the main vessel.
15/ If needed, adjust the water quantity in the main vessel.

TABLE-US-00001 FOMULATION A (invention) B* C* D* F* F* G* H* Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (Dissolvine GL-47-S from AkzoNobel) Dipropylene Glycol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Isododecane 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Dimethicone (5 cst) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.3 — — 0.3 — — 0.3 — AMMONIUM 1.5 — 1.5 — 1.5 — — — POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (Hostacerin ® from Clariant) Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose — — — — 0.3 1.8 — — Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez — — — — — — 1.5 1.8 30 from Lubrizol) Talc 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 TiO2 (water soluble) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Hydroxypropyl starch 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 phosphate (Structure XL) Salicylic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Sodium hydroxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Menthol classic 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 TOTAL WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100

[0142] For each composition, viscosity, classical stability, stress stability (stress cycle), sensory tests by a panel and sensory tests by the formulator, were measured according to the following respective protocols:

Protocol of Measurement of the Viscosity:

Material

Rheometer Lamy Rheology RM 200

Mobile M3

Procedure

[0143] Viscosity is measured at 3 time points, t=0 s, t=30 s and t=10 minutes, with the mobile M3.
For freshly formulated products, the viscosity is measured 24 h after the formulation of the product (first experiment).
For stability samples, the viscosity is measured after the sample has reached the room temperature.
Viscosity is indicated in UD in the table below. For information, 40 UD corresponds to 1700 mPa.Math.s; 50 UD corresponds to 2100 mPa.Math.s; and 60 UD corresponds to 2500 mPa.Math.s.

Protocol of Stability, “Classical Stability”:

Material

[0144] Four chambers at controlled temperature of 4° C., 25° C., 37° C. and 45° C.
Stability glass jars of 50 g.

Principle

[0145] The objective of this test is to simulate the process of ageing of the formula, to see if the formula is stable over the product shelf-life. The product is kept at four different temperatures (4° C., 25° C., 37° C. and 45° C.) and the stability observations are made at two different time points (1 month and 2 months). Indeed, 2 months at 45° C. is equivalent to 3 years on the shelf under real-time conditions.

Procedure

[0146] About 50 g of the test samples in glass jars are kept in duplicates at the respective temperatures 4° C., 25° C., 37° C. and 45° C. At the time points of 1 month and 2 months respectively, one jar is being analyzed at each temperature and different parameters are assessed such as appearance, color, perfume, odor, pH and viscosity. If the product is compliant with the target values, the product is considered as stable at the time point. The observations have to be noted down and if any deviation is not acceptable, the product is considered as not stable over time.

Protocol of Stability, “Stress Cycle”:

Material

[0147] Three chambers at controlled temperature of 4° C., 25° C. and 50° C.
Stability glass jars of 50 g.

Principle

[0148] The objective of this test is to subject the test sample to extreme (forced) temperature conditions and temperature shocks in order to assess possible stability issues these temperature conditions may lead to in the test sample. Following this nine-day protocol (comprising three cycles of three days each; each cycle consists in subjecting the test sample(s) for 24 hours each at 50° C., 25° C. & 4° C.), any sign of instability suggests probability of potential stability issues. While if the sample is found to be stable without any noticeable issues, in most likely cases the sample is going to be stable under conventional stability protocol. This protocol makes it possible to get a good idea about the stability after only 9 days of time.

Procedure

[0149] About 50 g of the test samples in glass jars are put in triplicate on 50° C. stability chamber for 24 hours. The samples are then transferred to 25° C. chamber for next 24 hrs. Followed by this they are shifted to 4° C. chamber for another 24 hrs. This completes the first cycle, for a total of three cycles. One jar out of three is then analyzed. Different parameters are assessed such as appearance, color, perfume, odor, pH and viscosity. If the product is compliant with the target values, the product is considered as stable after one cycle. The two remaining samples go through a second cycle (24 hours each at 50° C., 25° C. & 4° C.) and then one glass jar is removed and the analysis is repeated. If the product is compliant with the target values, the product is considered as stable after two cycles. Finally, the last glass jar goes through a third cycle. After analysis, if the product is compliant after 3 cycles, it is considered as stable under stressed conditions and the product is also likely to be stable under conventional stability protocol.
All the observations have to be noted down and if any deviation is not acceptable then the product is considered as not stable under stressed conditions and will most probably not be stable under conventional stability protocol as well.
Protocol of Measurement of the Sensorial Effect by a Sensory Panel with Universal Profile:
Location of the test: INDIA
Objectives: To evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas
Experimental procedure: Sequential monadic evaluation in blind randomized presentation
Panel: 17 trained women, 18-35 year old
Evaluation Zone & Time: Product appearance—during application, immediately post application and after 2 minutes of application.

Protocol of Measurement of the Sensorial Effect by the Formulator in the Lab:

[0150] Location of the test: INDIA
Objectives: To evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas
Experimental procedure: Application of 2 known products, one on each front side of the arm
Evaluator: Experienced formulator
Evaluation Zone & Time: Product appearance—during application, immediately post application and after 2 minutes of application.

TABLE-US-00002 FORMULATION A (invention) B* C* D* E* F* G* H* pH 4.03 — 4.35 4.48 4.36 4.17 4.17 4.01 Viscosity (UD) T0 50.5 — 26.6 3 43.7 66.5 46.3 34.6 Viscosity (UD) T30 s 50.1 — 26 2.8 42.7 60 42.4 33.8 Viscosity (UD) T10 min 48.73 — 25.21 2.5 42.36 51.36 37.34 33.05 Stability comments ok 2 phases ok 2 phases ok Presence of White at first sight totally totally few white aggregates unstable unstable particles of polymer and liquid and liquid on surface crashing out Dispersion TiO2 ok NO ok NO ok ok ok Noodling NO — NO — ok Yes Yes, a lot Texture ok — Light and — Sticky and Very Sticky Sticky like Sticky easy to drying sensory unacceptable a face wash spread light sensory for squeaky feel a leave on Stress cycle Stable NA Stable NA Stable Unstable NA NA Classical stability 2 mth Stable NA Some NA NA NA NA NA crystals observed at 1 mth at 2-8° C.

[0151] As is shown above, a number of cellulose-based polymers were tested. However, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose-based formulations (E and F) resulted in highly sticky formulations and took significantly a longer time to absorb on the skin, which is not appreciated.

[0152] HEC-based formulations D and G helped building the viscosity and resulted in non-sticky formulas. However, such HEC formulas mostly resulted in a noodling effect, i.e. the formulation or the polymer comes off with normal rubbing, thus resulting in non-acceptance by the consumers. Moreover, HEC alone does not provide the needed gel strength to hold the titanium dioxide particles suspended in the formulation, as shown by formula D.

[0153] As a conclusion, it appears that only formula A according to the invention is stable, shows a dispersion of TiO2, no noodling, and presents the required texture.

[0154] Beside, formula A was clinically tested for its efficiency on acne treatment: the results show significant anti-acne performance in reducing non-inflammatory lesions in 2 weeks, on inflammatory lesions in 3 weeks, and on skin sebum level in 1 week.

[0155] Finally, a formula A′ according to the invention, similar to formula A according to the invention, was prepared in a similar manner as described above: formula A′ has a similar composition to formula A, except that (i) the 1% dimethicone (5 cst) was substituted by 1% LexFeel™ N5 MB (Inolex), and (ii) the perfume was present in 0.4% (instead of 0.1% for formula A).

Example 2: Preparation of Compositions According to the Present Invention

[0156] Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention were prepared according to the amounts given in the table below, according to the same protocol as the one of example 1. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

[0157] Viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as the one of example 1.

TABLE-US-00003 F1 F2 F3 F4 Tetrasodium glutamate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 diacetate (Dissolvine GL- 47-S from AkzoNobel) Dipropylene Glycol 4 4 5 5 Isododecane — — 1 1 Dimethicone (5 cst) 1 1 1 1 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl stearate (and) 1 1 1 1 PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 AMMONIUM 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (Hostacerin ® from Clariant) Talc — — 1 1 TiO2 (water soluble) 1.5 1 1 1 Hydroxypropyl starch — — 1 1 phosphate (Structure XL) Salicylic Acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate — 0.5 0.5 0.5 Octadecenedioic acid — — 0.5 0.5 Piroctone Olamine — — — 0.5 Menthol Natural — 0.02 — — Menthol classic — 0.03 0.03 Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 VISCOSITY T30s (UD) 38.9 35 62 60 OBSERVATION IN LAB Very little No noodling (upon preparation) noodling approved by sensorial experts Other comments Acceptable Base for oil consistency control ingredients

[0158] Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention are stable, show no noodling, and present the required texture.

Example 3: Preparation of Comparative Compositions

[0159] Comparative formulas C1 to C3 were prepared according to the amounts given in the table below, according to the same protocol as the one of example 1. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

[0160] Viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as the one of example 1.

TABLE-US-00004 C1 C2 C3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate — 0.1 0.1 (Dissolvine GL-47-S from AkzoNobel) Dipropylene Glycol 3 4 4 Propylene Glycol 3 — — Coco Betaine 0.75 — — Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.75 — — Ethanol 3 — — UV FILTERS YES NO NO Dimethicone (5 cst) — 1 1 Dimethicone (50 cst) 0.5 — — Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 — 1 1 Stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) Hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) 1.5 — — Xanthan gum — 0.25 — Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 1 — (POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7 in an inverse emulsion at 40% in isoparaffin/water) Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose — — 1 Cetearyl Alcohol — 1 — Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) — 1 — TiO2 (oil soluble) 0.5 — — TiO2 (water soluble) 0.5 1 1 Salicylic Acid 1.2 2 1.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate — 0.5 — Menthol natural — 0.02 — Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 VISCOSITY t30s (UD) 74 3 4.3 OBSERVATION IN LAB Observation of No No thickening, (upon preparation) noodling effect thickening long due to high HEC absorption and concentration unstable

[0161] Xanthan gum could not build the required viscosity as shown for formulation C2, and also resulted in a sticky feeling on skin.

[0162] Similarly, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose-based formulations similarly took a longer time to absorb, did not thicken and do not lead to stable formulations (C3).

[0163] As a conclusion, it appears that comparative compositions C1 to C3 show noodling, or do not show the required texture, because of no thickening of the composition.