COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CLAY, AT LEAST ONE CRYSTALLIZABLE FATTY COMPOUND AND AT LEAST ONE LIPOSOLUBLE UV FILTER

Abstract

The present invention concerns a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one clay selected from phyllosilicates having a 2:1 layered structure, at least one crystallizable fat, and at least one liposoluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one clay selected from phyllosilicates having a 2:1 layered structure, at least one crystallizable fat, and at least one liposoluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is selected from smectites.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is selected from the group consisting of hectorite, stevensite and saponite.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the crystallizable fat is selected from crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty alcohols and/or crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the crystallizable fat is present in a content of between 0.1% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the liposoluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB is selected from homosalate ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane benzophenone-3, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, dineopentyl 2,4,6-tris(4-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicon 15 di-neopentyl, 4-methoxybenzalmalonate, 1,1-dicarboxy-(22-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the liposoluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB.

10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and/or UVB is present in a content of between 1% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant.

12. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one oil.

13. The composition according to claim 1, being an aqueous gel.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is unmodified.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is selected from trioctahedral smectites.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the crystallizable fat is selected from cetyl palmitate and a mixture of esters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid.

17. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the clay is present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the clay is present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the crystallizable fat is selected from crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty alcohols and/or crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

20. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the crystallizable fat is selected from crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty alcohols and/or crystallizable esters of C12-C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Preparation of the Compositions According to the Invention C1, C2 and C3 and the Comparative Compositions C4*, C5*, C6* and C7*

[0166] The compositions according to the invention C1, C2 and C3 and the comparative compositions C4*, C5*, C6* and C7* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0167] The crystallizable fat is melted at 80 C., and liquid oil is added if necessary. The liposoluble UV filter(s) is (are) added to the molten crystallizable fat while hot. This fatty phase is emulsified with a hot aqueous phase containing the surfactant(s), the clay, and the water-soluble filter(s) if any. The resulting emulsion is stirred for 15 minutes and then cooled from 80 C. to 40 C. During this cooling, other ingredients such as fillers and preservatives are added. A vacuum is created to remove air bubbles from the composition. An aqueous gel is obtained, comprising a crystallizable fat dispersion encapsulating the liposoluble UV filter(s).

[0168] The quantities of each ingredient are expressed as a ratio by mass to the total weight of the composition.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 C1 C2 C3 C4* C5* C6* C7* (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) Ingredient (invention) (invention) (invention) (comparative) (comparative) (comparative) (comparative) Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Sodium alginate 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 2-ethylhexyl salicylate 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 (INCI: ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE) Glycerol stearate citric 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 ester (INCI: GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE) 2-phenyl-1H- 4 4 4 4 4 benzimidazole-5- sulphonic acid (INCI: PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID) Stabilized dioctyl 1 1 1 15 1 1 15 carbonate (INCI: DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) Preservative Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs N-stearoyl-L-glutamic 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 acid mono-sodium salt (INCI: SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE) 1-[4-(1,1- 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 dimethylethyl)phenyl]-3- (4-methoxyphenyl)propane- 1,3-dione (INCI: BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE) Unmodified hectorite 2 2 2 2 (HYDROCLAY 2000 LO/ ELEMENTIS) Xanthan gum (INCI: 0.8 0.8 0.8 XANTHAN GUM) Mixture of mono-, di-, 3 3 3 triglycerides of behenic acid (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE) Glycerine 1 1 1 Cetyl Palmitate (INCI: 3 3 CETYL PALMITATE)

[0169] The comparative composition C4* contains an unmodified clay, at least one liposoluble filter but no crystallizable fat.

[0170] The comparative composition C5* comprises at least one liposoluble filter, at least one crystallizable fat but does not comprise clay.

[0171] The comparative composition C6* does not comprise clay, but comprises at least one liposoluble filter and a crystallizable fat different from that in the comparative composition C5*.

[0172] The comparative composition C7* comprises at least one liposoluble filter, but does not comprise clay or a crystallizable fat.

Example 2

Anti-Adhesion Test of Compositions C1, C2 and C3 According to the Invention and of Comparative Compositions C4*, C5*, C6* and C7*

[0173] The non-stickiness of the compositions C1, C2 and C3 according to the invention and of the comparative compositions C4*, C5*, C6* and C7* was evaluated according to the following protocol: [0174] Bioskin plates (reference: MAPREKOS Bioskin K520 or K531 plate A4 smooth and flat surface thickness 2 mm cut in squares 5*5 cm) are rinsed with a detergent solution (micellar solution, surfactant solution) and then with water and left to dry for 2 hours in an oven at 40 C. [0175] 40 to 60 mg of each composition are applied to a Bioskin plate. Spreading is done according to the following procedure: the formula is first spread with a finger pad using right-to-left movements (5 round trips), then the plate is turned by turn and 5 round trips are repeated. The operation is repeated on all 4 sides of the plate. [0176] The plates are weighed to ensure that they contain at least 30 mg of composition. [0177] Each plate is left to dry for at least 20 minutes on a hot plate (reference: EKIUM PCMF 400*600). [0178] hydrophobic black iron oxide (FeO) particles are applied using a sieve to even out the particle size, the amount of particles is measured accurately using a precision balance. The plate is left to rest for 15 minutes to allow the particles to adhere. [0179] the plate is then placed on a rotating support, a flow of air is then turned on for 5 seconds using a compressor set at 0.2 bar (reference: Compressors Smart Jet Pro 875 by IWATA) and an airbrush positioned at 30 cm from the plate (reference: Aerograf IWATA HP-G5 (0.5 mm) in such a way that the sample is swept by this flow transversely. [0180] The plate is then weighed again to identify the amount of particles that have adhered to the formula film.

[0181] A composition is considered to be non-sticky when the percentage of FeO removed when the Skin FX support passes through the airflow is greater than or equal to 70%.

[0182] The results of this test are presented in the following table:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Amount of FeO remaining after Percentage of FeO Amount of FeO passing through an removed by the Composition deposited (mg) airflow (mg) airflow C1 30.3 8.1 74% C2 66.2 12.8 80.5% C3 38.1 5.4 85.8% C4* 51.1 43 15.8% C5* 24.1 8.5 48.2% C6* 44.6 31.7 28.9% C7* 73.8 54.9 25%

[0183] When the compositions do not contain unmodified clay and/or crystallizable fats (comparative compositions C4*, C5*, C6* and C7*), iron oxide adhesion is important because the compositions are sticky. Only the compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of an unmodified clay and a crystallizable fat (compositions C1, C2 and C3) make it possible to obtain non-sticky compositions.

Example 3

Other Compositions According to the Invention and Comparison

[0184] A further composition according to the invention C8 and a further comparative composition C9* were prepared according to the following protocol: [0185] 1) The fatty phase, containing the crystallizable fats as well as the liposoluble filters and a first surfactant, is introduced into the tank and heated to 80 C. (emulsifier speed at 400 rpm with 20 rpm scraping). [0186] 2) When all the solid raw materials are melted, the clay or gellan gum is added to be dispersed in this fatty phase (emulsifier speed at 400 rpm; coaxial 90 rpm; scraper 50 rpm). [0187] 3) The aqueous phase containing the second surfactant, water-soluble filters and water is prepared separately and heated to 80 C. in a 5 L Maxilab tank (Olsa brand). [0188] 4) The aqueous phase is added to the fatty phase (emulsifier speed at 4000 rpm; coaxial 150 rpm; scraper 75 rpm). After 15 min, sodium alginate, when present, is added (emulsifier speed 4000 rpm; coaxial 150 rpm; scraper 75 rpm). [0189] 5) After 10 min, the heating is stopped and cooled to a setpoint emperature of 10 C. At the same time, the charge is introduced into the mixture (emulsifier speed 2000 rpm; coaxial 150 rpm; scraper 75 rpm). [0190] 6) At 40 C., the preservative and antioxidant are added, at 30 C. the rest of the preservatives are added. [0191] 7) If necessary, the pH is adjusted according to the hydrophilic UV filters used.
The SPF index of the compositions was determined according to the ISO 24442 method.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 C8 C9* (% w/w) (% w/w) Ingredient (invention) (comparative) Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Glycerol stearate citric ester (INCI: 3.00 3.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE) Cellulose 0.80 0.80 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid 2.50 2.50 (INCI: PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID) Caprylyl glycol 3.00 3.00 Ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 3.00 Mixture of mono-, di-, triglycerides of 3.00 3.00 behenic acid (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE) 1-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-3-(4- 3.00 3.00 methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (INCI: BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL- METHANE) L-Arginine 1.00 1.00 (E-E)-3,3-(1,4-phenylenedimethylidene)- 3.00 3.00 bis(2-oxobornane-10-sulfonic acid) in 32% aqueous solution (INCI: TEREPHTHALYDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID) Phenol, 2,2-[6-(4-methoxyphenyl)1,3,5- 4.50 4.50 triazine-2,4-diyl]bis[5[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy] (INCI: BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL- METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE) Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: 3.00 3.00 HOMOSALATE) Glycerine 4.66 4.66 Gellan gum (INCI: GELLAN GUM) 1.00 Cetyl Palmitate (INCI: CETYL 3.00 3.00 PALMITATE) Stabilized dioctyl ether (INCI: 6.00 6.00 DICAPRYLYL ETHER) Titanium dioxide 2.00 2.00 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (INCI: ETHYL- 4.00 4.00 HEXYLSALICYLATE) N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid mono-sodium 2.00 2.00 salt (INCI: SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE) Salicylic acid 0.30 0.30 Unmodified hectorite 2.00 (HYDROCLAY 2000 LO/ELEMENTIS) Sodium alginate 0.90 SPF Index 48.5 48.3

[0192] Composition C8 according to the invention has better cosmeticity, particularly in terms of stickiness, than the comparative composition C9* which does not contain hectorite, while having a sun protection factor of the same order of magnitude. These results show that the presence of a clay chosen from among the phyllosilicates having a 2:1 layered structure in the compositions of the invention makes it possible to improve their cosmeticity without altering their performance in terms of sun protection.

Example 4

Other Compositions According to the Invention

[0193] Other compositions C10, C11 and C12 according to the invention have been prepared with the ingredients listed in the table below and according to the protocol described in example 1.

TABLE-US-00004 C10 C11 C12 (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) Ingredient (invention) (invention) (invention) Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Sodium alginate 0.7 0.7 0.7 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (INCI: 8 8 8 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE) Glycerol stearate citric ester (INCI: 2.2 2.2 2.2 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE) Stabilized dioctyl carbonate (INCI: 1 1 1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) Preservative Qs Qs Qs N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid mono- 2 2 2 sodiumsalt (INCI: SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE) 1-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-3-(4- 8 8 8 methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (INCI: BUTYL METHOXYDI- BENZOYLMETHANE) Unmodified hectorite 0.1 0.5 0.8 (HYDROCLAY 2000 LO/ELEMENTIS) Mixture of mono-, di-, triglycerides 3 3 3 of behenic acid (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE)

[0194] The non-stickiness of the compositions C1, C2 and C3 according to the invention was evaluated according to the protocol of example 2. The results are gathered in the Table below.

TABLE-US-00005 Amount of FeO remaining after Percentage of FeO Amount of FeO passing through an removed by the Composition deposited (mg) airflow (mg) airflow C10 31.4 14.9 52.5% C11 37.6 17.2 54.2% C12 52.6 17.8 66.2%

[0195] The compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of an unmodified clay and a crystallizable fat (compositions C10 to C12) make it possible to obtain non-sticky compositions.