TWO-COMPONENT PROCESS FOR COATING KERATIN MATERIALS WHICH CONSISTS IN APPLYING TO SAID MATERIALS A COMPOSITION WITH A POLYPHENOL AND A COMPOSITION WITH A COMPOUND THAT IS CAPABLE OF FORMING HYDROGEN BONDING WITH SAID POLYPHENOL
20240041738 · 2024-02-08
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61Q1/025
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/498
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8129
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, notably for care and/or makeup, more particularly for makeup, which consists in applying to said keratin materials: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y including at least two functional groups Gy, which may be identical or different, which are capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the keratin materials i) simultaneously; or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, irrespective of the order of application.
Claims
1. Cosmetic process for coating keratin material, consists in comprising applying to said keratin material: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound Y comprising at least two functional groups, which may be identical or different, which are capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X.
2. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol X is chosen from catechin tannins.
3. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin.
4. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins.
5. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol X is tannic acid.
6. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol(s) X is present in composition (A) in a content equal or greater than 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
7. Process according to claim 1, in which the polyphenol(s) X is present in composition (A) in a content from 1.0 to 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
8. Process according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition containing it (them), does (do) not contain any anionic group in its(their) structure.
9. Process according to claim 1, in which compound Y comprises at least two functional groups Gy, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydroxyl, acid anhydride, amine, amide, carbamate, urethane, carbamide, urea, thiol, glyceryl, acrylate, acrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol, vinylamine, vinylformamide, and mixtures thereof.
10. Process according to claim 1, the compound(s) Y is (are) different from the sugars obtained from fruits or vegetables.
11. Process according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) Y are nonionic.
12. Process according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) Y is (are) present in composition (B) in a content equal or greater than 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
13. Process according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) Y is (are) present in composition (B) in a content from 1.0 to 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
14. Process according to claim 1, in which the mole ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) X to the reactive functional group(s) Gy of the compound(s) Y ranges from to 20.
15. Process according to claim 1, in which composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprises at least one aqueous phase.
16. Process according to claim 15, in which water is present in a concentration of greater than 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A) and/or composition (B).
17. Process according to claim 15, in which the pH of composition (A) and/or of composition (B) is less than 8.0.
18. Process according to claim 1, in which composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprises an oily phase.
19. Process according to claim 1, in which composition (A) and/or composition (B) is anhydrous.
20. Process according to claim 18, in which the oily phase concentration is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) and/or of composition (B).
21. Cosmetic kit for coating keratin material comprising: a) a first composition (A) as defined in claim 1; and b) a second composition (B) as defined in claim 1, said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.
22. Process for making up keratin material according to claim 1 in which composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprises at least one dyestuff which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
23. Process for making up keratin materials according to claim 22, in which the following are successively applied: a) a first coat of makeup on the keratin material with a composition (A) according to claim 22, comprising at least one dyestuff, and then b) on the first coat of makeup a coloured second coat with a composition (B).
24. Process for making up keratin material according to claim 22, in which the following are successively applied: a) a first coat of makeup on the keratin material with a composition (B according to claim 22 comprising at least one dyestuff, and then b) on the first coat of makeup a second coat with a composition (A).
25. Process for making up keratin material according to claim 22, in which the following are successively applied: a) a first coat on the keratin material for pretreatment of the keratin material with a composition (A), and then b) on the first, a second coat for making up the keratin material with a composition (B) according to claim 22 comprising at least one dyestuff.
26. Process for making up keratin material according to claim 22, in which the following are successively applied: a) a first coat on the keratin material for pretreatment of the keratin material with a composition (B), and then b) on the first coat, a second coat for making up the keratin material with a composition (A) according to claim 22 comprising at least one dyestuff.
27. Process for making up keratin material according to claim 22, in which the following are successively applied: a) a first coat of makeup on the keratin material with an anhydrous composition (B) according to claim 22 comprising at least one dyestuff, and then b) on the first coat of makeup, a second coat with an aqueous composition (A).
Description
EXAMPLES
[0274] a) Two-stage makeup process with 1) application of a first coat (base coat) of composition (A) comprising a polyphenol X (tannic acid) and 2) application of a second coat (top coat) of a composition (B) comprising a compound Y which is capable of interacting with the polyphenol by hydrogen bonding.
[0275] The following formulations were prepared:
Base Coat Compositions
[0276]
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 % by weight A2 A1 outside the Ingredients (invention) invention) Tannic acid (from 0 Sigma-Aldrich) Pigment (black iron 0 oxide) CI 77499 ineralized water 0 0
Top Coat Compositions
[0277]
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 % by weight Compound B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10 Polysorbate-80 10 (Tween 80-LQ - Croda) PEG-180 (Polyglycol 8000S - 10 Clariant) Hydroxypropyl guar 1 Jaguar HP 105 SGI - Solvay) Pullulan (Cosmetic Grade Pullulan - 7.1 Hayashibara) PEG-30 glyceryl stearate 10 (Tagat S - Evonik) Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 9 (Dermofeel G10L from Dr Straetmans) Glycereth-26 (Liponic EG-1 - Vantage 10 Specialty Chemicals) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 10 (Eumulgin CO 60 - BASF) Cetylhydroxyethyl-cellulose 1 (Natrosol Plus 330 CS - Ashland) Polyvinyl alcohol 10 (Selvol Ultalux FF - Sekisui Specialty Chemicals) Demineralized water 90 90 99 92.9 80 91 90 90 99 90
Application
[0278] Transparent PET plates with a side length of 6 cm were cut.
[0279] An adhesive disc (Monaderm ref. PA22/36 double-sided disc, diameter 22/36), the inner circle of which was 22 mm in diameter, was applied, making it possible to control and to delimit the application area. The same amount of product per unit area was thus applied. 0.1 g of the above formulations was then applied to the PET support as a superposition of 1) base coat and 2) top coat without mixing, allowing the base coat to dry before applying the top coat.
Persistence Test
[0280] The optical transmittance of the deposits thus obtained was measured using a Haze Guard i machine (Byk). The deposits were then immersed in 50 ml of demineralized water with stirring for 1 minute. After drying, the optical transmittance of the resistant deposits was measured under the same conditions. The change in transmittance was expressed as a percentage increase relative to the transmittance measured before immersion. The higher this increase, the lower the resistance of the deposit to water. The results are collated in the table below:
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Base Top % Process coat coat T.sub.before immersion T.sub.after immersion Variation Outside A1 3.50 77.90 2126 the A2 B1 1.30 88.90 6738 invention A2 B2 8.12 55.80 587 A2 B3 7.26 75.80 944 A2 B4 6.93 82.90 1096 A2 B5 9.26 40.50 337 A2 B6 4.92 52.70 971 A2 B7 4.27 14.60 242 A2 B8 2.83 30.20 967 A2 B9 3.15 3.97 26 A2 B10 2.12 40.70 1820 Invention A1 B1 1.20 1.72 43 A1 B2 8.34 17.00 104 A1 B3 7.77 17.40 124 A1 B4 7.01 27.30 289 A1 B5 9.26 14.00 51 A1 B6 4.64 4.97 7 A1 B7 4.54 5.12 13 A1 B8 2.94 3.39 15 A1 B9 3.04 3.11 2 A1 B10 2.15 2.84 32
[0281] In contrast with the two-stage makeup processes outside the invention using the polyphenol tannic acid alone or the hydrogen bonding acceptor compound Y alone, the two-stage makeup processes according to the invention using the superposition of a first coat with tannic acid and of a second coat with the hydrogen bonding acceptor compound Y led to a very marked improvement in the water resistance.