TWO-PHASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMINO ACID AND TWO SPECIFIC ACIDS
20240041731 · 2024-02-08
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/03
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, the weight ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase being between 0.75 and 1.25, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises: at least one amino acid and/or a salt thereof and/or a derivative thereof, citric acid and/or a salt thereof, and salicylic acid, and the weight ratio between the sum of the contents by weight of citric acid and salicylic acid, and the content by weight of amino acid is between 0.90 and 1.10.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, the weight ratio between the oily phase and the aqueous phase being between 0.75 and 1.25, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises: at least one amino acid and/or a salt thereof and/or a derivative thereof, citric acid and/or a salt thereof, and salicylic acid, and the weight ratio between the sum of the contents by weight of citric acid and salicylic acid, and the content by weight of amino acid is between 0.90 and 1.10.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid is an arginine and/or an organic acid or mineral acid salt thereof and/or a derivative thereof.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the citric acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the salicylic acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
6. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one compound according to the following formula (I): ##STR00002## wherein R.sub.1H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.2H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.3CH.sub.3, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 not being simultaneously H, or an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising a compound or a mixture of compounds according to formula (I).
7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the compound of formula (I) is chosen from madecassoside, terminoloside, and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the compound according to formula (I) is present with a content of between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase has a pH of between 3.8 and 4.4.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is substantially free of monovalent inorganic salt and/or divalent inorganic salt.
11. A method of makeup removal and/or cleaning and/or care of the keratin materials comprising the application of a composition according to claim 1 on said keratin materials.
12. (canceled)
13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the amino acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
14. The composition according claim 2, wherein the citric acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
15. The composition according claim 3, wherein the citric acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
16. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the salicylic acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
17. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the salicylic acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
18. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the salicylic acid is present with a content of between 0.01% and 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
19. The composition according to claim 2, further comprising at least one compound according to the following formula (I): ##STR00003## wherein R.sub.1H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.2H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.3CH.sub.3, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 not being simultaneously H, or an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising a compound or a mixture of compounds according to formula (I).
20. The composition according to claim 3, further comprising at least one compound according to the following formula (I): ##STR00004## wherein R.sub.1H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.2H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.3CH.sub.3, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 not being simultaneously H, or an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising a compound or a mixture of compounds according to formula (I).
21. The composition according to claim 4, further comprising at least one compound according to the following formula (I): ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.2H or CH.sub.3; R.sub.3CH.sub.3, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 not being simultaneously H, or an extract of Centella Asiatica comprising a compound or a mixture of compounds according to formula (I).
Description
EXAMPLES
[0077] In all the examples, the compositions are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the tables hereinbelow, according to the following protocol:
[0078] An oily phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients of the oily phase.
[0079] The hydrolate is mixed with the arginine in water; the salicylic acid pre-dispersed in the propanediol is then added; the madecassoside is then added; lastly, the pH is adjusted with the citric acid. The aqueous phase is thus obtained.
[0080] Lastly, the oily phase is put into contact with the aqueous phase in order to obtain the composition.
[0081] In the examples, the ocular tolerance of the compositions was evaluated.
[0082] In vivo tests were conducted for that purpose. These are usage tests with consumers (with a minimum of 60 consumers) which consist of a makeup removal routine for 15 days. Observations are made by the consumers themselves, as well as by a dermatologist and an ophthalmologist (toxicological expertise) at the beginning and end of the trial.
[0083] In this study, the eye tolerance assessment of the various compositions is indicated by an OK or not OK result, depending on whether the tolerance is acceptable or not.
[0084] Demixing Test Protocol:
[0085] Demixing is examined after repeated mixing. The demixing of the two-phase composition must be satisfactory essentially at T24H after mixing: [0086] at ambient temperature after 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over of the bottle and after 4 successive days of 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over per day; [0087] After spending 2 months at 45 C., after 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over of the bottle and after 4 successive days of 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over per day; [0088] After spending 10 days of 20+20 C. cycles and having undergone 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over of the bottle and after 4 successive days of 10 instances of back-and-forth tipping over per day.
[0089] Microbiological test protocol: this is the test described in detail in ISO standards 11930:2019 and 29621:2017.
Example 1: Preparation of a Composition According to the Invention, C1, and Comparative Compositions C2*, C3*, and C4*
[0090] The composition according to the invention, C1, and comparative compositions C2*, C3*, and C4* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table hereinbelow, according to the protocol described above. The quantities of each ingredient are expressed as a mass ratio in relation to the total weight of the phase (aqueous phase and oily phase) containing it, and not in relation to the total weight of the composition.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 C1 (according C2* C3* C4* to the (% w/w) (% w/w) (% w/w) Phase Ingredient invention) (comparative) (comparative) (comparative) Oily Jojoba seed oil (INCI: 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 phase SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL/SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL) Isopropyl palmitate Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs100 Qs 100 Sweet almond oil 18.7 18.7 10.4 18.7 (INCI: PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL/PRUNUS DULCIS) Refined and 9 deodorized limnanthes alba oil (INCI: LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL/LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL) Alkanes branched at 20 20 C15-C19 (INCI: C15-19 ALKANE) Stabilized dicaprylyl 20.8 20.8 ether (INCI: DICAPRYLYL ETHER) Perfume 0.5 0.15 0.15 0.5 Aqueous Hydrolate 2 2 5 2 phase L-Arginine 0.784 0.784 0.784 Water 10 10 10 Salicylic acid 0.181 0.273 0.22 0.273 1,3-Propanediol 4.9 4.9 1,2-Pentanediol 5.5 4.9 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Purified isomers of 0.03 0.03 0.03 Centella Asiatica, madecassoside/ terminoloside mixture, purity 95% (INCI: MADECASSOSIDE Citric acid 0.58 0.6 0.37 Sodium chloride 2 Magnesium sulfate 2 Weight ratio of oily 0.82 0.82 0.82 0.82 phase to aqueous phase Ratio of (citric acid + 0.97 1.11 0.82 salicylic acid) to arginine pH of aqueous phase 4.1 3.6 2.7 4.5 Stability (demixing OK OK Not OK OK quality) (unclear interface due to presence of small white particles) Eye tolerance OK Not OK Not OK OK Microbiological OK OK OK Not OK protection
[0091] Of these four compositions, only composition C1 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition simultaneously displaying satisfactory demixing, eye tolerance, and microbiological protection.