COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SOLID FATTY SUBSTANCES AND A GELLING POLYMER
20190350836 · 2019-11-21
Inventors
- Carole Guiramand (Chevilly la Rue, FR)
- Nathalie BOILEAU (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Léonora HENAULT-MEZAIZE (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Raluca LORANT (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
Cpc classification
International classification
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a fatty phase-in-water emulsion comprising a first solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 0.2 to 2 MPa; a second solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 5 to 15 MPa; and an associative aqueous gelling polymer. Application to the cosmetic treatment of the skin.
Claims
1. A composition in the form of a fatty phase-in-water emulsion comprising: (a) a first solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 0.2 to 2 MPa; (b) a second solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 5 to 15 MPa; and (c) an associative aqueous gelling polymer.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid fatty substance has a melting point ranging from 28 to 45 C.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid fatty substance is chosen from butters of plant origin, hydrogenated plant oils, petroleum jelly, pentaerythritol ethers of C.sub.2-C.sub.4 polyalkylene glycol, block copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and of an alkylene oxide containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the copolymer having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 5000 to 8000; esters derived from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C.sub.6-C.sub.10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C.sub.6-C.sub.20 monocarboxylic acids; homopolymers of a vinyl ester containing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups; copolymers of allyl stearate and vinyl acetate; arachidyl propionate; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, C.sub.6-C.sub.30 fatty acid triglycerides; pentaerythrityl esters chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, C.sub.4-C.sub.10 dicarboxylic acid esters of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof; esters of dilinoleyl alcohol dimer and of dilinoleic acid in which the hydroxyl groups are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol; esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of dilinoleic acid dimer; esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of C.sub.16-C.sub.22 fatty acids; waxes of plant origin; microcrystalline wax; vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid fatty substance is chosen from butters of plant origin, hydrogenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid fatty substance is chosen from mango butter, cocoa butter; the mixture of Mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes; hydrogenated jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first solid fatty substance is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance has a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 6 to 12 MPa.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance has a melting point of greater than 45 C. and less than or equal to 90 C.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance is chosen from C12-C30 fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol, waxes of animal origin, C30-45 alkyl dimethicones, fatty alcohols comprising from 16 to 50 carbon atoms, waxes of mineral origin, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated plant oils, polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, polymethylene waxes, esters of a C14-C30 fatty acid and of a plant oil, C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers; and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance is chosen from waxes of animal origin, C16-C50 fatty alcohols; waxes of mineral origin; waxes of plant origin; C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers; and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance is chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax; ozokerite; poly(stearyl acrylate) homopolymers, poly(behenyl acrylate) homopolymers; and mixtures thereof.
12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance comprises a C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer; optionally combined with a wax of plant origin or a wax of mineral origin.
13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second solid fatty substance is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first and second solid fatty substances are present in a total content ranging from 6% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first and second solid fatty substances are present in a mass ratio of first solid fatty substance to second solid fatty substance ranging from 0.4 to 0.8.
16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers, C12-C20 fatty alcohol ethers of nonionic hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic associative acrylic polymers.
17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is an anionic associative acrylic polymer chosen from: (1) copolymers derived from the polymerization of: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) a monomer of formula (II) below:
CH.sub.2CRCH.sub.2OB.sub.nR(II) in which R denotes H or CH.sub.3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy group (CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O), n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, (2) the copolymers of (i) a monomer of formula (III) below: ##STR00003## in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, and of (ii) a monomer of formula (IV) below:
H.sub.2CCR.sup.1COOR.sup.3(IV) in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, R.sup.3 denotes a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl group. (3) acrylic terpolymers comprising: (a) from 19.5% to 70% by weight of an ,-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (b) from 20% to 80% by weight of C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, (c) from 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic urethane macromonomer of formula (IV) below: ##STR00004## in which p ranges from 6 to 150 and R2 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals comprising from 18 to 26 carbon atoms, (4) copolymers of an ,-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an ester of an ,-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a polyoxyethylenated C12-C30 fatty alcohol and of an ester of an ,-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alcohol. (5) copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, of crosslinked C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, of polyethylene glycol C10-C30 alkyl ether methacrylate containing 25 mol of ethylene oxide and of polyethylene glycol allyl ether containing 20 ethylene oxide units/polypropylene glycol containing 5 propylene oxide units.
18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol.
19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is chosen from C12-C20 fatty alcohol ethers of hydroxyethylcellulose.
20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is a polyurethane polyether chosen from: (1) polyurethane polyethers derived from the polycondensation of: (i) a polyethylene glycol comprising from 120 to 250 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated monoalcohol comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, comprising from 15 to 120 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, (2) polyurethane polyethers derived from the polycondensation of: (i) a polyethylene glycol comprising from 130 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a monoalcohol comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and (iii) a diisocyanate containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, (3) polycondensates of polyethylene glycol containing 200 mol of ethylene oxide, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and methylglucose, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 6 mol of ethylene oxide and of tridecyl alcohol, hexamethylene diisocyanate, and containing C16-C20 alcohol end groups.
21. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative aqueous gelling polymer is a polyurethane polyether chosen from: the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate; the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol containing 20 ethylene oxide units and hexamethylene diisocyanate; a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate); a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate); a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 200 mol of ethylene oxide, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and methylglucose, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 6 mol of ethylene oxide and of tridecyl alcohol, hexamethylene diisocyanate, and containing C16-C20 alcohol end groups.
22. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the associative hydrophilic gelling polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an additional aqueous gelling agent chosen from: crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers; carrageenans; alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymer.
24. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an additional aqueous gelling agent chosen from sodium polyacrylate homopolymers.
25. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the additional aqueous gelling agent is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an oil.
27. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an oil present in a content ranging from 0% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
28. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises an oil, the oil and the first and second solid fatty substances being present in a weight ratio of (first and second solid fatty substances)/oil ranging from 0.5 to 1.5.
29. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises a nonionic non-silicone surfactant.
30. The composition according to claim 29, wherein the nonionic non-silicone surfactant is chosen from: polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C8-C30 fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, ethers of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid ester of glucose or of methylglucose, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, C8-C30 fatty acid monoesters or diesters of glycerol, polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters, C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glucose or of (C1-C2)alkylglucose or of sucrose, and mixtures thereof.
31. The composition according to claim 29, wherein the nonionic non-silicone surfactant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
32. The composition according claim 1, which comprises water in a content ranging from 25% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
33. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises a non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane.
34. The composition according to claim 1, which has a hardness, at 25 C., ranging from 1 to 30 kPa.
35. A process for treating the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to claim 1.
36. The process according to claim 35, wherein the process is intended for treating slackening of the skin and/or for reducing the appearance of the fine lines of the skin.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0367] Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are mass amounts relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0368] In the compositions described below, the following solid fatty substances were used, having the hardness and melting point indicated (listed in increasing order of hardness):
[0369] Mango butter sold under the name Trivent Mango Butter by the company Alzo (hardness=0.26 MPa; m.p.=36.1 C.)
[0370] Mixture of Mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes sold under the name Acticire by the company Gattefoss (hardness=0.49 MPa; m.p.=38.2 C.)
[0371] Cocoa butter sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the company Dutch Cocoa BV (hardness=1.05 MPa; m.p.=32 C.)
[0372] Hydrogenated jojoba oil butter sold under the name Iso Jojoba 50 by the company Desert Whale (hardness=1.14 MPa; m.p.=30 C.)
[0373] Paraffin wax sold under the name Sasol Wax 5603 by the company Sasol (hardness=7.4 MPa; m.p.=58.1 C.)
[0374] Ozokerite wax sold under the name Paracera ARFB by the company Paramelt (hardness=8.8 MPa; m.p.=55.8 C.)
[0375] Stearyl alcohol (hardness=9.27 MPa; m.p.=62 C.)
[0376] Polystearyl acrylate sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG Polymer by the company Air Products and Chemicals (hardness=9.5 MPa; m.p.=47 C.)
[0377] Candelilla wax sold under the name Candelilla Wax SP 75 G by the company Strahl & Pitsch (hardness=9.6 MPa; m.p.=64.9 C.)
[0378] Behenyl alcohol (hardness=10.6 MPa; m.p.=67.4 C.)
[0379] Carnauba wax sold under the name Cerauba T3 by the company Baerlocher (hardness=10.7 MPa; m.p.=82.3 C.)
[0380] The associative aqueous gelling agents used are as follows:
[0381] Rheoluxe 811 (Elementis): PEG-136/Steareth-100/HDI Copolymer
[0382] Viscophobe DB 1000 (Dow Chemical Company): Terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3)
[0383] Aculyn 44 Polymer (Dow Chemical Company): polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer)
[0384] Adekanol GT-730 (Adeka USA Corporation): polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol containing 20 ethylene oxide units and hexamethylene diisocyanate (INCI name: PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether)
[0385] Polysurf modified hydroxyethylcellulose (Ashland): cetylhydroxyethylcellulose
[0386] Pemulen TR-1 Polymer (Noveon): acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate copolymer polymerized in an ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture
Examples 1 and 2
[0387] The following two facial care compositions were prepared (weight contents):
TABLE-US-00001 Exam- Exam- ple 1 ple 2 Water qs 100 qs 100 Aqueous Glycerol 7 7 phase Preserving agents 1.2 1.2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 PEG-136/steareth-100/HDI copolymer 0.25 0.5 (Rheoluxe 811 from Elementis) Sodium polyacrylate 0.8 0.8 (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) Boron nitride 2 2 Fatty Mixture of arachidyl glucoside and 3 3 phase of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols (15/55/30) (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC) Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5 5 Candelilla wax 3 Cocoa butter 4 4 Carnauba wax 4 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone 5 5 Fluid 10 cS from Dow Corning) Mixture of crosslinked 5 5 polydimethylsiloxane and of polydimethylsiloxane (15.5/84.5) (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) TOTAL 100 100 Hardness (kPa) 13.19 25.33
[0388] The aqueous phase was homogenized at a temperature of about 70-75 C. The fatty phase was homogenized at a temperature of about 85-90 C. The fatty phase was then introduced into the aqueous phase, such that the emulsification temperature was between 70 and 75 C., over 10 minutes. The thickener was then added. The mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature.
[0389] The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25 C.) and at 45 C.; they have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
[0390] Compositions 1 and 2 were evaluated by a panel of 12 women from 40 to 60 years old who were regular users of anti-ageing care products. These women applied compositions 1 and 2 to the skin of their face under the usual application conditions.
[0391] The panel judged that the compositions tested have the following cosmetic properties:
[0392] On application, compositions 1 and 2 are easy to spread and penetrate quickly. The textures are non-tacky and afford a sensation of softness on application.
[0393] After application of compositions 1 and 2 to the face, no sensation of tautness or tackiness was experienced.
[0394] After 3 days of use, compositions 1 and 2 are judged to be comfortable.
[0395] For composition 1, the majority of the panel found an anti-ageing effect (smooth, taut skin) and a skin-firming effect.
[0396] For composition 2, the majority of the panel found that the facial pores are tightened, and also found an anti-ageing effect (taut, reinvigorated, tonified, firmed skin, attenuation of fine lines).
Example 3
[0397] The following facial care composition was prepared:
TABLE-US-00002 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5% Polystearyl acrylate 1% Behenyl alcohol 1.2% Carnauba wax 2% Paraffin wax 2% Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS 5% from Dow Corning) Mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer 5% (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) Boron nitride 2% Oxyethylenated (25 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol 1.8% Acticire 4% Methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated alcohol 2.17% dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate at 23% AM in water (Viscophobe DB 1000 from Amerchol) Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) 0.8% Glycerol 7% Sequestrant 0.1% Preserving agents qs Water qs 100%
[0398] The composition obtained has a hardness of 6.59 kPa.
[0399] The composition obtained is stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25 C.) and at 45 C.; it has a compact texture in accordance with its hardness.
[0400] The composition was evaluated by a panel of 12 women over 55 years old to obtain the perception by the panel of the sensation on use and the effects perceived on the skin.
[0401] The panel judged that the composition tested has the following cosmetic properties:
[0402] The composition has a compact texture: when the composition packaged in a jar is taken up with a finger, the finger does not enter the composition but remains in contact with the surface of the composition.
[0403] On application to facial skin, the composition penetrates rapidly into the skin, despite its compactness. After application, the skin is enveloped with a covering film.
[0404] Capacity for covering the surface of the skin, especially giving rise to tightening of the pores, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment.
[0405] The skin feels like it is enveloped with a supple, invisible covering film.
[0406] The user has a sensation of restructuring and redensifying of the skin tissues.
Examples 4 to 11
[0407] The following skincare compositions were prepared:
TABLE-US-00003 Example 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Isostearyl 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 neopentanoate Carnauba wax 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Paraffin wax 2 2 2 Ozokerite wax 1.2 2 2 2 2 2 Behenyl alcohol 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Mango butter 4 4 Acticire 4 Hydrogenated 4 4 jojoba oil butter Cocoa butter 4 4 4 Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Dimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 (Xiameter PMX- 200 Silicone Fluid 10cS from Dow Corning) Mixture of 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) Boron nitride 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Oxyethylenated (25 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol Sodium 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) Viscophobe DB 2.17 2.17 2.17 2.17 2.17 1000 Aculyn 44 1.43 Adekanol GT-730 0.5 PUR-62 1 Glycerol 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Triethanolamine 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Preserving agents qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Hardness (kPa) 6.94 6.94 6.59 8.33 7.29 1.39 5.55 7.98
[0408] The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25 C.) and at 45 C.; compositions 4 to 8, 10 and 11 have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
[0409] The compositions spread and penetrate easily on/into the skin. After application, the applied compositions are not tacky or greasy and have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
[0410] After application to facial skin, the compositions afford a covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment. The skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened. The skin is enveloped with a supple, comfortable (absence of tautness) and invisible covering film.
Examples 12 and 13
[0411] The following two facial care compositions were prepared:
TABLE-US-00004 12 13 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5 5 Carnauba wax 2 2 Paraffin wax 2 2 Behenyl alcohol 1.2 1.2 Acticire 4 4 Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX- 5 5 200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS from Dow Corning) Mixture of dimethicone and 5 5 dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) Boron nitride 2 2 Oxyethylenated (25 OE) 1.8 1.8 cetylstearyl alcohol Viscophobe DB 1000 2.17 2.17 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (a) 0.8 Pemulen TR-1 (b) 0.4 Glycerol 7 7 Triethanolamine 0.575 0.175 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 Preserving agents qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100% Hardness (kPa) 7.98 6.59 (a) Polysurf modified hydroxyethylcellulose sold by the company Ashland (b) acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate copolymer polymerized in an ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture (Pemulen TR-1 Polymer from Noveon)
[0412] The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25 C.) and at 45 C.; they have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
[0413] The compositions spread easily on the skin, and are not tacky or greasy after application: they have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
[0414] On application to facial skin, the compositions afford a comfortable (absence of tautness), supple covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment. The skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened.
Comparative Examples 14 and 15 (Outside the Invention)
[0415] Two compositions (Examples 14, 15) outside the invention, similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Acticire (first solid fatty substance) and without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent), respectively, were prepared.
TABLE-US-00005 3 14 15 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5 5 5 Carnauba wax 2 2 2 Paraffin wax 2 2 2 Behenyl alcohol 1.2 1.2 1.2 Acticire 4 4 Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 1 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 5 5 5 Silicone Fluid 10 cS from Dow Corning) Mixture of dimethicone and 5 5 5 dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) Boron nitride 2 2 2 Oxyethylenated (25 OE) 1.8 1.8 1.8 cetylstearyl alcohol Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP 0.8 0.8 0.8 from Cognis) Viscophobe DB 1000 2.17 2.17 Glycerol 7 7 7 Triethanolamine 0.175 0.175 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 Preserving agents qs qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Hardness (kPa) at T0 6.59 5.55 3.47 Hardness (kPa) at T 2 months 45 C. 7.67 3.47 2.43 Variation of the hardness +1.08 2.08 1.04 (in kPa and in %) (+16%) (37%) (30%)
[0416] The hardnesses of each composition were measured at T0 and also at T 2 months after storage at 45 C.; the variation of the hardness of the compositions after storage was calculated.
[0417] The cosmetic properties were evaluated by applying each composition to facial skin.
[0418] By comparison with the composition of Example 3 according to the invention:
Example 14 Composition
[0419] loss of stability: 37% drop in hardness
[0420] Application to the skin: the composition spreads less well, it is less film-forming and drags more; it imparts less of a soft feel. There is a decrease in the covering effect on the surface of the skin.
Example 15 Composition
[0421] loss of stability: 30% drop in hardness
[0422] Application to the skin: the composition has a less thick consistency under the fingers, it is more slippery; it does not give a covering effect on the surface of the skin (this effect is not perceived).
Example 16 (Outside the Invention)
[0423] One composition outside the invention, similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent) and with in place, in same amount of active material, poly acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS)
TABLE-US-00006 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5% Polystearyl acrylate 1% Behenyl alcohol 1.2% Carnauba wax 2% Paraffin wax 2% Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS 5% from Dow Corning) Mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer 5% (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) Boron nitride 2% Oxyethylenated (25 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol 1.8% Acticire 4% Methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/poly acrylamidomethyl 0.5% propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) 0.8% Glycerol 7% Sequestrant 0.1% Preserving agents qs Water qs 100%
[0424] The composition obtained has a hardness of 1.74 kPa.
[0425] Comparing to the composition of the example 3, the composition of example 16 is more supple (less compact); after application on the skin, the skin is enveloped with a covering film which affording a lower sensation of containment and which have a lower matt effect. The film is also more tacky.