Liquid cosmetic composition comprising an oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than 60? celsius

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non volatile oil, at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60? C., the said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably being anhydrous.

Claims

1. A liquid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising: at least one non-volatile oil, at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle, and at least one wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60? C., wherein the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and wherein the composition has a viscosity at 25? C. ranging from 1 to 25 Pa.Math.s.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has a specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ?m.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle has a tapped density ranging from 0.02 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax is selected from the group consisting of carnauba wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, polymethylene wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, rice bran wax, polyglycerolated beeswax, octacosanyl stearate, ceresin wax, C.sub.20-C.sub.40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate wax, polyethylenated alcohol wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, wax obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, ouricury wax, montan wax and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a total content of the wax ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile oil is selected from the group consisting of: polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes, hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrocarbon-based oils from plants or of plant origin, ester oils, fatty alcohols comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups comprising 2 to 24 carbon atoms which are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups phenyl silicone oils, fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total content of the non-volatile oil ranges from 15% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is free of nanometric-sized silica.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is free of hydrophobic-treated fumed silica.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of dyestuffs, hydrocarbon-based resins, dextrin esters, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers, block ethylenic copolymers, organogelling agents, hydrocarbon-based polyamides, silicone polyamides, polyurethanes, semi-crystalline polymers, fillers, active agents, antioxidants, sweeteners, preserving agents, basifying agents, acidifying agents, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one dyestuff selected from the group consisting of pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is incorporated in a makeup product.

16. A cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising applying to the skin and/or the lips, the composition according to claim 1.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a total content of the wax ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 TO 6: LIQUID COMPOSITIONS

(1) Compositions 1 to 6 below in the form of liquid compositions according to the invention were prepared. Compositions 1 to 6 are lip glosses and comprise an oil, hydrophobic aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60? C.

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition 1 2 3 4 5 6 according according according according according according INCI Name and to the to the to the to the to the to the Commercial invention invention invention invention invention invention Reference (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) Pentaerythrityl 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.06 0.06 0.06 tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinogard TT from BASF) Silica silylate 0.2 0.5 0.3 1.5 1.5 3 (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) Yellow 6 lake 0.064 0.192 Red 7 0.2 0.2 0.09 0.016 0.016 0.016 Titanium dioxide 0.20 Red 28 lake 0.4 0.168 Iron oxides 0.1 0.08 0.11 Castor oil 15 15 (pharmaceutical castor oil from Olvea) Microcrystalline 1.5 wax (Microwax HW from Paramelt) Beeswax (White 3.15 beeswax from Koster Keunen) Hydrogenated 1 1 jojoba oil (Jojoba wax flakes from Desert Whale) Polyethylene wax 5 1 1 (Asensa sc 211 from Honeywell) Synthetic wax 2.5 (Cirebelle 108 from Cirebelle) Trihydroxy- 2 2 stearine (Thixcin R from Elementis) Bis(diglyceryl) 14.66 14.53 14.89 9.43 9.27 7.44 poly(2- acyladipate) (Softisan 649 from Sasol) Diisostearyl 7.95 7.88 8.08 malate Pentaerythrityl 12.69 12.37 11.96 28.77 28.29 27.27 tetraisostearate Tridecyl trimellitate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 (Liponate TDTM from Lipochemicals) C18-36 acid 16.07 15.92 16.32 11.60 11.41 11 triglyceride (Dub TGI 24 from Stearinerie Dubois) 12- 1.7 1.7 Hydroxystearic acid Hydrogenated 10 castor oil dimer dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) NACRES 5 5 4.6 4.5 4.5 4.5 Fragrance 0.3 0.08 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polybutene 12 12.15 12.15 (Indopol H 100 from Ineos) Polybutene 30 30 31.5 (Indopol H 1500 from Ineos) Sucrose acetate 5 isobutyrate (Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher from Eastman Chemical) Pentylene glycol 1 1 1 1 1 1 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Total 100 100 100 100 100 100

(3) Preparation Process

(4) Compositions 1 to 6 were obtained according to the following protocol: In a first stage, the fillers, pigments and/or active agents of the phase were ground in a three-roll mill in part of the oily phase (pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate, polybutene, diisostearyl malate, isostearyl isostearate and bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate), depending on the case).

(5) The rest of the liposoluble ingredients were then mixed in a heating pan at a temperature of about 100? C. with Rayneri blending until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. The ground pigmentary material was then incorporated into the mixture and stirring was continued until the mixture was homogeneous.

(6) Finally, after cooling, the composition was poured into small pots and then placed at room temperature for 24 h.

(7) Evaluation of the Compositions

(8) Viscosity: the viscosity at 25? C. of the compositions was evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

(9) Stability: the stability of the compositions is evaluated by storing the composition for 72 hours at room temperature and by observing whether separation of the oily phase and/or sedimentation of the pigments and/or nacres takes place. The stability of the compositions was also evaluated after centrifugation at a speed of 450?g for 10 minutes.

(10) Tack: the tacky nature of the deposits obtained with a composition was evaluated by applying the composition to the lips. The tack is evaluated 2 minutes after application by pressing the upper and lower lips together and evaluating the resistance to separation of the lips.

(11) Gloss and migration: For certain compounds, the gloss and the migration of the deposit obtained on the lips with composition 6 were evaluated using a Polka SEI-M-0216-POLK-02 polarimetric camera and a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 machine as described in patent application FR 2 829 344. The gloss is evaluated immediately after application and 1 hour after application of the formula. The formulation is applied to the lips of a panel of six individuals having fleshy and clear lips.

(12) For other compositions, the gloss of the deposits obtained with the compositions was evaluated by applying the composition to the lips, immediately after application, and 1 hour after application.

(13) Application properties: the ease of applying the composition to the lips and especially the glidance on application are especially evaluated.

(14) Results of the Evaluations

(15) TABLE-US-00002 Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition 1 according 2 according 3 according 4 according 5 according 6 according to the to the to the to the to the to the invention invention invention invention invention invention Properties (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) w Viscosity (Pa .Math. s) 4.3 6.5 6.5 8.5 13 12 GLOSS of the Very good: Good: Good Very good: Very good Very good deposit 290 ? 24 213 ? 14 311 ? 13 immediately after application GLOSS Very good: Good: Good Very good: Very good Very good REMANENCE 271 ? 15 199 ? 22 305 ? 15 of the deposit 1 hour after application MIGRATION Little Little Little Non- Non- Non- migration migration migration migrating migrating migrating STABILITY Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable after 72 hours at room temperature STABILITY Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable after 72 hours at 42? C. STABILITY Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable after centrifugation TACK of the Sparingly Sparingly Sparingly Sparingly Sparingly Sparingly deposit tacky tacky tacky tacky tacky tacky 2 minutes after application Application Good: easy Good: easy Good: easy Good: easy Good: easy Good: easy properties application, application, application, application, application, application, good good good good good good glidance and glidance and glidance and glidance and glidance and glidance and homogeneous homogeneous homogeneous homogeneous homogeneous homogeneous deposit deposit deposit deposit deposit deposit

(16) The above compositions according to the invention are stable, after 24 hours at room temperature and also after centrifugation. In particular, no phase separation of the oily phase or sedimentation of the nacres and/or pigments to the bottom of the heating bag is observed.

(17) Moreover, these compositions apply easily to the lips: they glide well and spread easily and produce a thin, homogeneous deposit that is sparingly tacky.

(18) For compositions 1, 4, 5 and 6, a very glossy deposit with good remanence of this gloss is obtained.

(19) For compositions 2 and 3, a deposit with a good level of gloss, which shows good gloss remanence, is obtained.

EXAMPLE 7: LIQUID LIP COMPOSITION

EXAMPLE 7A: PREPARATION OF A POLY(ISOBORNYL ACRYLATE/ISOBORNYL METHACRYLATE/ISOBUTYL ACRYLATE/ACRYLIC ACID) COPOLYMER

(20) 300 g of isododecane are placed in a 1-liter reactor and the temperature is then raised to go from room temperature (25? C.) to 90? C. over 1 hour.

(21) 105 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 105 g of isobornyl acrylate and 1.8 g of 2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox? 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added, at 90? C. and over 1 hour.

(22) The mixture is maintained at 90? C. for 1 hour 30 minutes.

(23) 75 g of isobutyl acrylate, 15 g of acrylic acid and 1.2 g of 2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane are then added to the preceding mixture, still at 90? C. and over 30 minutes.

(24) The mixture is maintained at 90? C. for 3 hours and is then cooled.

(25) A solution is thus obtained containing 50% copolymer solids in 50% isododecane comprising a first poly(isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl methacrylate) block with a Tg of 128? C., a second poly(isobutyl acrylate/acrylic acid) block with a Tg of ?9? C. and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate/acrylic acid statistical copolymer.

(26) The Tg of the copolymer is 74? C.

(27) These are theoretical Tg values calculated by Fox's law.

EXAMPLE 7B: DISTILLATION OF THE SYNTHESIS SOLVENT (ISODODECANE) BY ADDING OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE

(28) The solution obtained in Example 1 is heated to 130? C. under a vacuum of 100 mbar to evaporate off the isododecane while simultaneously adding octyldodecyl neopentanoate. The isododecane is entirely replaced by the same weight amount of octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

(29) The use of octyldodecyl neopentanoate makes it possible to evaporate off all the isododecane, which remains, if at all, only in residual trace amounts. A solution containing 50% copolymer solids in 50% octyldodecyl neopentanoate is thus obtained.

EXAMPLE 7C: LIQUID LIP COMPOSITION

(30) The liquid lip composition 7c below according to the invention was prepared. Composition 7c is a lip gloss and comprises an oil, hydrophobic aerogel particles and a wax with a melting point of greater than or equal to 60? C., and a block ethylenic polymer as prepared in Examples 7a and 7b.

(31) TABLE-US-00003 Formula 7c according to the invention Compounds (weight %) Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) 2.5 Synthetic wax (Cirebelle 108 from Cirebelle) 0.25 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl 145 A from 1 Momentive Performance Materials) Acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate 5 copolymer (at 50% in octyldodecyl neopentanoate), as prepared in Example 7a) Acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate 25 copolymer (at 50% in isododecane), as prepared in Example 7b) Hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene 3.52 copolymer (Regalite R1100 from Eastman Chemical) Caprylic/capric glyceride (Capmul MCM from Abitec) 2 Polybutene (Indopol H 100 from Ineos) 10.65 Squalane (Pripure 3759 from Croda) 8.18 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil 25.03 PDM 1000 from Wacker) Octyldodecanol 12.107 Caprylyl glycol 0.05 Iron oxides 0.1 Red 7 0.2 Red 28 Lake 0.399 Yellow 6 Lake 0.064 Nacres 5 Total 100

(32) Preparation Method:

(33) In a first stage, the pigments were milled in the octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

(34) The waxes were heated to a temperature of 95-98? C., along with the fillers and the block ethylenic copolymer in a heating pan with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

(35) The hydrocarbon-based resin was dissolved in part of the oily phase. The ground pigmentary material and the mixture of molten waxes were added to the hydrocarbon-based resin and the mixture was kept stirring using a Rayneri blender. The phenyl silicone oil and the isododecane were then added to the mixture, with continued stirring using a Rayneri blender, until homogeneous.

(36) Finally, the mixture was poured into isododecane-leaktight heating bags and then placed at room temperature for 24 hours.

(37) Evaluation of the Compositions

(38) Viscosity: the viscosity at 25? C. of the composition was evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

(39) Stability: the stability of the composition is evaluated by storing the composition for 72 hours at room temperature, and 72 hours at 42? C., and by observing whether separation of the oily phase and/or sedimentation of the pigments and/or nacres takes place. The stability of the compositions was also evaluated after centrifugation at a speed of 450?g for 10 minutes.

(40) Tack: the tacky nature of the deposits obtained with a composition was evaluated by applying the composition to the lips. The tack is evaluated 2 minutes after application by pressing the upper and lower lips together and evaluating the resistance to separation of the lips.

(41) Gloss: the glossy nature of the deposits obtained with the compositions was evaluated in vivo by applying the composition to the lips. In particular, the gloss is evaluated at a time immediately after application, and also 1 hour after application.

(42) Application properties: the ease of applying the composition to the lips and especially the glidance on application are especially evaluated.

(43) Results of the Evaluations

(44) TABLE-US-00004 Composition 7c Properties according to the invention Viscosity (Pa .Math. s) 8.3 STABILITY after 72 hours at room Stable temperature STABILITY after 72 hours at 42? C. Stable STABILITY after centrifugation Stable GLOSS of the deposit immediately after Good application Application properties Good: ease of application, good glidance and uniform deposit Tack Sparingly tacky

(45) Composition 7c above according to the invention is stable, after 72 hours at room temperature and also at 42? C., and also after centrifugation. In particular, no separating-out of the oily phase or sedimentation of the nacres and/or pigments to the bottom of the heating bag is observed.

(46) Moreover, the composition is easy to apply to the lips: it glides on well and spreads easily and affords a thin, uniform deposit. Furthermore, the deposit obtained is glossy and sparingly tacky.