Compositions and methods for simultaneous reshaping and direct coloring of hair

Abstract

The invention concerns ready to use compositions for the reshaping and direct coloring of hair comprising glyoxylic acid, a glyoxyloyl amino acid or a mixture thereof and a direct dye, and a method for reshaping and coloring of hair by means of said compositions.

Claims

1. A ready-to-use composition for simultaneous reshaping and coloring of hair comprising at least one direct dye and a compound of formula (I) or the corresponding monohydrate of formula (II), respectively, ##STR00002## wherein X is either a hydroxy group, or X is a NHR group wherein R represents an amino acid residue and the N atom is the amino group of the corresponding amino acid, said compounds of formula I or II being present in a concentration from 5.5 to 25% by weight, and wherein said composition is characterized by a pH between 0.5 and 3.0.

2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the compound of formula I or II is selected from glyoxylic acid or a glyoxyloyl amino acid.

3. A composition according to claim 1 wherein said at least one dye is selected from anionic, neutral or cationic dyes.

4. A composition according to claim 3 wherein said at least one dye is an anionic dye.

5. A composition according to claim 4 wherein said at least one dye is selected from Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 92, Acid Violet 43, Acid Blue 7 and Acid Blue 9.

6. A composition according to claim 3 wherein said at least one dye is a non ionic dye.

7. A composition according to claim 6 wherein said at least one dye is selected from HC Yellow No. 7, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, HC Orange No. 1, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 13, Disperse Violet 1, HC Yellow No. 13 and Disperse Red 17.

8. A composition according to claim 3 wherein said at least one dye is a cationic dye.

9. A composition according to claim 8 wherein said at least one dye is selected from Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 15 and HC Blue 16, Basic blue 75 and Basic blue 124.

10. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the concentration of said at least one dye is between 0.01% and 5% by weight.

11. A composition according to claim 1 further comprising one or more auxiliary agents selected from anionic, neutral or cationic surfactants, anionic, neutral or cationic thickeners, organic solvents, silicones, cationic polymers.

12. A ready to use composition according to claim 1 obtained by mixing a first agent containing glyoxylic acid or a glyoxyloyl amino acid and a second agent containing at least one dye.

13. A kit for the preparation of a ready to use hair reshaping and coloring composition of claim 12 comprising a first agent containing glyoxylic acid or a glyoxyloyl amino acid and a second agent containing at least one dye.

14. A process for the reshaping and direct coloring of hair, comprising: (i) contacting the hair with an aqueous ready-to-use composition according to claim 1 containing glyoxylic acid or a glyoxyloyl amino acid and a dye, whereby the processing time is between 5 minutes and 45 minutes; (ii) shaping the hair by means of heat and shaping aids.

15. A process according to claim 14 further comprising pre-washing the hair and rinsing and drying steps before or after the shaping step (ii).

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Prior to the application of the compositions of the following examples, hair was washed with a deep cleansing shampoo and dried.

(2) Trials on the head were performed by well trained experts familiar with reshaping procedures and assessments.

Example 1

(3) A standard composition was used for the preparation of the reshaping and coloring agent. In the current example only dyes and amount of dyes were varied. The amounts of dyes used for the preparation of the reshaping and coloring composition are indicated in Table 1 for the anionic dyes, in Table 2 for the cationic dyes and in Table 3 for the nonionic dyes.

(4) TABLE-US-00001 Cosmetic composition for simultaneous reshaping and coloring hair Glyoxylic acid, 50% in water 35.00% Propylene glycol 40.00% Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone 1.50% Cetrimonium chloride 0.75% Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.30% Disodium EDTA 0.10% Dyes and amounts indicated in Table 1 Water ad 100.00%

(5) TABLE-US-00002 Example Dye Amount Color [RAL] Intensity Table 1-1: Acid Dyes, Amounts and Color Results 1-1.1 Acid Yellow 3 0.25% 1016 sulfur yellow medium 1-1.2 Acid Yellow 23 0.25% 1021 rape yellow very strong 1-1.3 Acid Yellow 1 0.20% 1018 zinc yellow medium-strong 1-1.4 Acid Red 92 0.20% 3015 light pink medium 1-1.5 Acid Red 52 0.60% 4010 telemagenta strong 1-1.6 Acid Red 40 0.40% 2012 salmon orange medium-strong 1-1.7 Acid Red 33 0.50% 4003 heather violet weak-medium 1-1.8 Acid Red 18 0.25% 2012 salmon orange medium 1-1.9 Acid Orange 7 0.50% 2011 deep orange weak-medium 1-1.10 Acid Violet 43 0.50% 5023 distant blue strong 1-1.11 Acid Green 25 0.30% 6033 mint turquoise medium 1-1.12 Acid Blue 9 0.25% 5018 turquoise blue medium 1-1.13 Acid Blue 7 1.00% 5021 water blue very strong 1-1.14 Acid Black 1 0.25% 7033 cement grey medium Table 1-2: Cationic Dyes, Amounts and Color Results 1-2.1 Basic Yellow 87 0.50% 1016 sulfur yellow very strong 1-2.2 Basic Yellow 57 0.50% 1018 zinc yellow strong 1-2.3 Basic Violet 2 0.10% 4001 red lilac medium 1-2.4 Basic Red 76 1.00% 2012 salmon orange medium 1-2.5 Basic Red 51 0.50% 3017 rose medium-strong 1-2.6 Basic Orange 69 1.00% 1034 pastel yellow medium 1-2.7 Basic Orange 31 0.50% 2001 red orange medium 1-2.8 Basic Brown 17 1.00% 8023 orange brown medium-strong 1-2.9 Basic Blue 99 0.50% 7036 platinum grey medium 1-2.10 HC Blue 15 0.50% 5017 traffic blue strong Table 1-3: Non Ionic Dyes, Amounts and Color Results 1-3.1 HC Yellow 7 0.13% 1002 sand yellow medium 1-3.2 HC Yellow 13 1% 1016 sulfur yellow strong 1-3.3 HC Orange NO. 1 0.50% 1033 dahlia yellow strong 1-3.4 Disperse Blue 377 0.50% 6021 pale green weak 1-3.5 Disperse Black 9 0.15% 1012 lemon yellow strong 1-3.6 Disperse Violet 1 0.25% 4005 blue lilac medium 1-3.7 4-Nitro-o-phenylenediamine 0.25% 1012 lemon yellow medium 1-3.8 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0.50% 2009 traffic orange strong

(6) The compositions comprising the dyes were applied to light blond Brazilian hair which was curly to frizzy. Then the hair was tack-dried by means of a blow dryer. Tack-dried hair has an average humidity of 30-40%. The compositions were left on the hair for 20 minutes. A detangling cream is applied to the hair and distributed evenly using a comb. Without rinsing off, the hair is brushed followed by straightening by means of a flat iron (220 C., 10 cycles). The hair was then washed and a rehydrating mask is applied to the hair, left for 5 min and rinsed off. The hair is dried with a hair dryer. The previously curly hair was well straightened and colored in the above indicated colors.

(7) A high relaxation efficiency after 24 hours under 90% relative humidity indicates that the hair did not display reversion. The data show that naturally curly Brazilian hair can be effectively straightened and simultaneously colored without substantial reversion after being treated with solutions containing the inventive composition.

Example 2

(8) The following composition is prepared and 60 ml thereof are filled into a squeeze foamer or a pump foamer.

(9) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2-1 Ingredient (INCI) Amount Glyoxylic acid 50% in water 35.00% Propylene glycol 5.00% Cetrimonium chloride 0.50% Coceth-7 0.48% PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl glycol ether 0.36% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil 0.24% PEG-15 Cocopolyamine 0.50% Perfume 0.60% Disodium EDTA 0.10% Acid Violet 43 1.50% Water ad 100.00%

(10) The foam is applied to washed human hair, tack-dried by means of a blow dryer and left on the hair for 20 minutes.

(11) Straightening and Coloring Hair

(12) A section of about 5 cm width of mid-brown hair is placed between the 2 hot plates of the 230 C. pre-heated flat iron with the appliance positioned close to the roots. The hair is held firmly with the flat iron, then the iron is moved slowly along from the roots to the tips. This procedure is repeated until the hair is well straightened.

(13) Curling and Coloring Hair

(14) In this case the untreated hair is flat and the selected device for reshaping is BaBylissPRO MiraCurl or Revolution Bellissima from IMETEC.

(15) Straight mid-brown hair is treated with the ready-to-use composition as described. Following the instructions of the device, the pre-heated styler is positioned close to the roots, the selected hair section is inserted, then the device is closed. The hair is pulled into the device, heated and held according to the settings, e.g. at 230 C. for a time of between 5 to 15 seconds. The styling device is removed.

(16) After straightening or curling the hair as described above, the hair is washed and a rehydrating mask is applied to the hair, left about 5 minutes and rinsed off The hair is dried with a hair dryer.

(17) In both cases the mid-brown hair is reshaped and very shiny with strong violet reflexes.

Example 3

(18) A cosmetic composition according to example 1 was used whereas in example 3 more than one dye of the same and also of different ionogenic nature were used. The amounts of the dyes and the obtained color results are indicated in table 3-1. Processing was performed as described in example 1.

(19) TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3-1 Combinations of dyes with the same and of different ionogenic nature in a composition for simultaneous coloring and reshaping Ionogenic Examples [dyes in % by weight of the ready-to-use mixture] Dye nature 3-1.1 3-1.2 3-1.3 3-1.4 3-1.5 3-1.6 3-1.7 3-1.8 3-1.9 3-1.10 3-1.11 3-1.12 Acid Black 1 anionic 0.028 Acid Blue 7 anionic 0.111 Acid Blue 9 anionic 0.056 0.111 Acid Green 25 anionic 0.038 Acid Orange 7 anionic 0.042 Acid Red 18 anionic Acid Red 33 anionic 0.045 0.114 Acid Red 40 anionic 0.044 0.089 Acid Red 52 anionic 0.086 0.100 Acid Red 92 anionic 0.022 Acid Yellow 1 anionic 0.043 0.018 Acid Yellow 23 anionic 0.068 Acid Yellow 3 anionic 0.056 Tetrabromophenol anionic 0.036 Blue Basic Orange 31 cationic 0.111 Basic Red 51 cationic 0.100 0.200 0.125 Basic Red 76 cationic 0.208 Basic Violet 2 cationic 0.022 Basic Yellow 57 cationic 0.021 Basic Yellow 87 cationic 0.200 0.091 0.111 HC Blue 15 cationic 0.020 0.020 0.018 Ext. D&C Violet 2 nonionic 0.125 0.071 0.045 Disperse Black 9 nonionic 0.025 Disperse Blue 377 nonionic 0.208 HC Yellow 7 nonionic 0.031 0.045 4-Amino-3- nonionic 0.125 0.300 nitrophenol 2-Amino-6-chloro- nonionic 0.182 0.125 4-nitrophenol Color [RAL] 6021 7002 3014 7006 7036 1001 7036 1015 6018 6021 3017 3012 pale olive antique beige platinum beige platinum light yellow pale rose beige green grey pink grey grey grey ivory green green red

(20) The results of example 3 demonstrate the high compatibility of the cosmetic carrier system with dye combinations of the same or of different ionogenic nature and glyoxylic acid for simultaneous coloring and reshaping.

(21) The previously curly light blond hair was well straightened and shiny and, after the treatment, showed the reflexes as indicated in Table 3-1.

Example 4

(22) A cosmetic composition according was used whereas a variety of straightening ingredients were used. Processing was performed as described in example 1.

(23) TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 4.1 Straightening compositions comprising various active straightening ingredients and a dye Ingredient (INCI) Amount Amount Glyoxylic acid 8.75% Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine 10.00% 5.00% Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids 6.00% 5.00% Propylene Glycol 5.00% 5.00% Cetrimonium Chloride 0.75% 0.75% Acid Red 52 0.60% 0.60% Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.30% 0.30% Disodium EDTA 0.10% 0.10% Water ad 100.00% ad 100.00%

(24) The pH of the compositions was 1.6. In both cases the previously light blond Brazilian hair which was curly to frizzy was colored in pink and the hair was well straightened.

Example 5

(25) The composition of this example was tested on 12 Brazilian models having different hair qualities from curly to more frizzy mid blond hair. As usually hair was washed by using a deep cleansing shampoo and dried with a blow-dryer. Then the reshaping and coloring composition was applied, tack-dried and left on the hair for 35 minutes.

(26) TABLE-US-00006 Ingredient (INCI) Amount Glyoxylic Acid 50% 35.0% Propylene glycol 5.0% Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.0% Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3% Quaternised hydrolysed collagen protein 0.3% ABIL B 8832 (from Evonik) 1.5% Antara 430 (from ISP) 0.6% Promois WK-HSIGH 0.2% Polysorbate 20 0.2% Babassu oil 0.1% Disodium EDTA 0.1% Acid Yellow 23 0.73% FD&C Red 40 0.68% Acid Blue 7 0.23% 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0.55% Water ad 100.0%

(27) Then strand by strand is smoothed as usually by using a flat iron heated to 190-220 C. for 10 times. After rinsing the hair and the application of a care composition and drying the hair was shiny, well straightened and colored in a medium brown shade.