Emulsifier-free bio mineral structured emulsion
10441514 · 2019-10-15
Assignee
Inventors
- Sophie Rochette (Saratoga Springs, NY, US)
- Stephan Doyon (Saratoga Springs, NY, US)
- Maria Elkurdi (Côte St-Luc, CA)
Cpc classification
A61K8/65
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/735
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/732
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/64
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/97
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/65
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
A process for creating cold emulsions for cosmetic use involves creating a gel component by exfoliating silicate compounds with catalysts and organic materials under pressure and mixing the resulting components with water, mixing an oil phase with additional powdered components as desired, and mixing the gel component with the oil phase in a high shear mixer until a Pickering emulsion is created. The resulting emulsion is simple to manufacture, stable for long periods of time, and has a desirable texture for cosmetic use.
Claims
1. A gel composition comprising a structuring agent mixed with water, the structuring agent comprising: at least one silicate selected from the group consisting of phyllosilicate, inosilicate, cyclosilicate, tectosilicate, neosilicate and sorosilicate, a polymer selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, guar gum, tapioca starch, corn starch, potato starch, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxy cellulose, chitin, pectin and arabinoxylans, and an acid, wherein the structuring agent comprises layers of the silicate with the polymer disposed there between, and wherein structuring agent is created by extruding the silicate, polymer and acid together in a pressurized environment such that the silicate is exfoliated by the acid so that the silicate has a modified surface charge, and is intercalated by the polymer so that the polymer is disposed between the layers of the silicate.
2. The gel composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicate is a phyllosilicate selected from the group consisting of Pelagite, vermiculite, zeolite, montmorillonite, sodium magnesium silicate, yofortierite, calcium silicate, lithium sodium magnesium silicate, smectite, bentonite, illite, kaolin and Canadian colloidal clay.
3. The gel composition according to claim 1, wherein the acid is selected from the group consisting of citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, hydrochloric acid and phosphoric acid.
4. The gel composition according to claim 1, wherein the structuring agent is present in an amount between 0.1-10% by weight.
5. The gel composition according to claim 1, further comprising a mineral salt and a preservative.
6. An emulsion comprising a mixture of the gel composition according to claim 1 with an oil component, the emulsion being created by mixing the gel composition with the oil component in a high shear mixture to create a Pickering emulsion.
7. The emulsion according to claim 6, wherein the oil component contains at least one component selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, butters, waxes, and silicones.
8. A process for creating a gel composition that comprises structuring agent and water, comprising the following steps: mixing under pressure at least one component from each of the following groups: a silicate selected from the group consisting of phyllosilicate, inosilicate, cyclosilicate, tectosilicate, neosilicate and sorosilicate, a polymer selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, guar gum, tapioca starch, corn starch, potato starch, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxy cellulose, chitin, pectin and arabinoxylans, and an acid, said step of mixing taking place in an extruder at elevated pressure such that the at least one silicate is exfoliated and is intercalated by the polymer, so that the structuring agent comprises layers of the silicate with the polymer disposed between the layers of the silicate.
9. The process according to claim 8, further comprising adding a stabilizer and preservative to the gel.
10. The process according to claim 8, wherein the structuring agent is mixed with water in a high shear mixer.
11. The process according to claim 8, further comprising forming a Pickering emulsion by mixing the gel with an oil in a high shear mixer.
12. The process according to claim 11, further comprising adding powdered components to the oil and gel prior to mixing.
13. The process according to claim 11, further comprising adjusting the pH of the emulsion by adding a buffer.
Description
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
(1) The invention will be described in detail with respect to several examples.
EXAMPLE 1
(2) Eye Cream
(3) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 wt % Ingredient 1 21.88 Water 2 5.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3 5.00 1,3 Propanediol 4 3.00 Hydrolized collagen 5 2.00 Balanites roxburghii seed oil 6 60.00 4% Gel of Sodium magnesium silicate & Xanthan gum & citric acid (Structura LTX) 7 0.50 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 8 0.10 Magnesium Chloride 9 0.10 Xanthan Gum 10 1.20 Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol (antimicrobial stabilizer marketed as Sensiva PA 40) 11 0.01 p Anisic Acid 12 0.05 Sodium Hyaluronate 13 0.50 Porphyra umbilicalis. (Algae extract) 14 0.10 Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil. 15 0.05 d,l alpha Tocopherol 16 0.50 Yeast extract 17 0.01 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract pH = 5.00-6.00
(4) The LTX Gel (#6), was prepared in an extruder as described above to exfoliate the sodium magnesium silicate. The resulting powder is mixed with the water (less 11%) until homogenized, which is about 3-5 minutes. The resulting gel is then kept aside to hydrate for approximately 4 hours (for 100+Kgs).
(5) Then, the 1,3, propanediol and Phenylpropanol/Propanediol/Caprylyl Glycol/Tocopherol (antimicrobial stabilizer) are mixed together and added to the prepared gel above.
(6) Next, the xanthan gum, p anisic acid, sodium hyaluronate are weighed and mixed together.
(7) Next, the hydrolyzed collagen, magnesium chloride, p anisic acid, algae extract, and yeast extract and aloe extract are dissolved in the remaining water and added in.
(8) Next, the xanthan gum, p anisic acid, sodium hyaluronate are added to the gel and the mixture is mixed until homogenized.
(9) The oil phase is then created by mixing together the dicaprylyl carbonate, date oil, Shea butter, carrot oil, Balanites roxburghii seed oil, and d,l alpha Tocopherol and this mixture is added to the gel.
(10) The oil phase and gel are then mixed in a high shear mixer for at least 5 minutes to create the final emulsified product. The pH is adjusted with a buffer to between 5-6. As an alternative to pre-preparation of the gel, all of the ingredients can be added at once in a single mixing process.
EXAMPLE 2
(11) Hyaluronic Eye Serum
(12) This is an eye serum using the gel component of the invention in a serum base, rather than an in an emulsion
(13) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 wt % Ingredient 1 31.95 Water 2 7.00 1,3 Propanediol 3 5.00 Montmorillite, Illite, Kaolin (BMC) 4 3.00 Glycerin 5 50.00 LTX: Sodium magnesium silicate, xanthan gum & citric acid 4% in aqueous gel 6 1.00 Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol (Sensiva Pa40) 7 0.40 Sodium Citrate 8 0.10 Sodium Hyaluronate 9 0.05 p anisic acid 10 0.10 Xanthan Gum 11 0.10 Magnesium Chloride 12 0.10 Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (green tea) 13 1.00 Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) Extract (chamomile) 14 0.2 Citric Acid 100.00
(14) The LTX component is prepared using the extrusion process described earlier to exfoliate the sodium magnesium silicate, and is mixed with water (less 1 L for future use) in the high shear mixer until homogenized, approximately 3-5 minutes. The resulting gel is then set aside for approximately 4 hours (based on 100+Kgs) until a hydrated soft gel is obtained with 4% solids content.
(15) The sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, p anisic acid and xanthan gum are weighed and set aside. The magnesium chloride is dissolved in water to a concentration of 1% and set aside.
(16) The propanediol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum and Sensiva PA40 are pre-mixed. The Montmorillonite, Illite, Kaolin, Glycerin, magnesium chloride solution, green tea and chamomile are added to the gel, along with the pre-mixed propoanediol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum and Sensiva PA40. Then the sodium citrate and p anisic acid powders are added. Citric acid is added to correct pH and remaining water is added. The mixture is mixed in a high shear mixer until a smooth gel is obtained. As an alternative to pre-preparation of the gel, all of the ingredients can be added at once in a single mixing process.
(17) The resulting formulation has a smooth texture, is non-irritating and is stable for long periods of time.
EXAMPLE 3
(18) Vitamin C Pickering Emulsion
(19) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 wt % Ingredient 1 77.74 Water 2 5.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3 3.00 1,3 Propanediol 4 0.50 Sodium citrate 5 3.00 Glycerin 6 2.00 LTX: Sodium magnesium silicate, Xanthan gum & citric acid 7 0.50 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 8 0.20 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter). 9 0.05 Alpha Tocopherol (vitamin E) 10 0.50 Xanthan gum 11 0.50 Fucus Vesiculosus (Kelp) Extract 12 1.20 Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol (Sensiva PA 40) 13 0.01 p Anisic Acid 14 0.10 Magnesium Chloride 15 5.00 Montmorillonite, Illite, Kaolin (BMC) 16 0.50 Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract.(green tea) 17 0.2 Citric Acid 100.00 pH = 5.0-6.0
(20) To prepare the emulsion, the following steps are performed:
(21) The LTX gel (#6) is created by homogenizing the powders in water under pressure in an extruder till dispersed, about 3-5 minutes and set aside to hydrate for approximately 4 hours (100+Kgs) or until a soft gel is obtained. The resulting gel is approximately 4% solids content.
(22) The propanediol, xanthan gum, sensiva PA40 and p anisic acid are pre-mixed (pre-mix A) and kept aside. Then, the Magnesium chloride is dissolved in water to create a 1% solution. The sodium citrate is also dissolved in water to create a 1% solution. The sodium ascorbyl phosphate is also dissolved in water to a 1% solution.
(23) The oil phase is created by mixing together the dicapryl carbonate, Shea butter and alpha tocopherol (vitamin E).
(24) The pre-mix A, magnesium chloride, sodium citrate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are added to the gel with continuous stirring. Then the glycerin, kelp extract, BMC and green tea extract are added with stirring. Finally, the oil phase is added and the pH is adjusted. The mixture is homogenized in a high shear mixer until a uniform cream is obtained.
EXAMPLE 4
(25) Moisturizing Conditioner
(26) TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 wt % Ingredient 1 15.54 Water 2 50.00 LTX gel Sodium magnesium silicate & Xanthan gum & citric acid (4% in water) 3 0.40 Sodium citrate 4 3.00 Glycerin 5 2.00 Montmorillonite & Chitin & citric acid (Structura CHI) 6 5.00 Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) 7 0.05 Alpha Tocopherol 8 2.00 Xanthan gum 9 0.50 Fucus Vesiculosus (Kelp) Extract 10 10.00 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 11 5.00 Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 12 1.00 Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tocopherol (Sensiva PA40) 13 5.00 Montmorillonite, Illite, Kaolin (BMC) 14 0.50 Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract. (green tea) 15 0.01 Sodium Hydroxide
(27) The gel is prepared as described above. The oil phase consisting of Structura CHI, Shea butter, alpha tocopherol, coconut oil and avocado oil are premixed and set aside. The glycerin and xanthan gum are also premixed and set aside. Then, the kelp extract, Sensiva PA40, BMC and green tea extract are added to the gel and stirred. The sodium citrate is then added and stirred. The oil phase is added to the gel, as is the glycerin and xanthan gum and the mixture is homogenized. The pH is adjusted to 4.5-5.5 and the remaining water is added. The mixture is homogenized in a high shear mixture until a uniform gel cream is obtained.
(28) The emulsions created with the structuring agent in the form of a gel pre-cursor are very stable, simple to prepare and have a pleasing texture.
(29) Accordingly, while only a few embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it is obvious that many changes and modifications may be made thereunto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.