Thickening and stabilising system of natural origin suitable, in particular, for preparing cosmetic products

Abstract

Thickening system consisting of: a) at least one pregelatinized starch, b) at least one gum of plant or microbial origin, c) and at least one cellulose derivative. Process for manufacturing a stable thickened system, by means of the steps of: a) providing an aqueous solution, b) heating the water to a temperature of between 20° C. and 80° C., preferentially between 20° C. and 50° C., c) introducing into the aqueous solution at least one pregelatinized starch, at least one nonionic polysaccharide and at least one anionic polysaccharide, d) stirring the medium until dispersion of the constituents in the water is obtained.

Claims

1. A thickening system, consisting of: a) at least one pregelatinized starch, b) at least one gum of plant or microbial origin, and c) and at least one cellulose derivative.

2. The thickening system as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the pregelatinized starch is obtained from corn, potato, wheat, rice, pea, oat, lentils, faba beans, broad beans, haricot beans and chickpeas, or combinations thereof.

3. The thickening system as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the pregelatinized starch is obtained from a waxy starch.

4. The thickening system as claimed in claim 3, characterized in that the pregelatinized starch is obtained from a corn starch, potato starch or a rice starch.

5. The thickening system as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the gum of plant or microbial origin is a gum obtained from plant seeds or exudates, a gum extracted from algae or a gum obtained from microbial fermentation or derivatives thereof.

6. The thickening system as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the gum of plant or microbial origin is a xanthan gum.

7. The thickening system as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the cellulose derivative is chosen from modified celluloses.

8. The thickening system as claimed in claim 7, characterized in that the cellulose derivative is methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, methylethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses or hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses.

9. The thickening system as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that the cellulose derivative is carboxymethylcelluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses.

10. The thickening system as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that the cellulose derivative is hydroxyethylcelluloses.

11. The thickening system as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it consists of: a) 1 to 12 parts by dry weight of at least one pregelatinized starch, b) 0.01 to 2 parts of at least one gum of plant or microbial origin, and c) 0.01 to 3 parts of at least one cellulose derivative.

12. The thickening system as claimed in claim 11, characterized in that it consists of: a) 5 to 11 parts by dry weight of at least one pregelatinized starch, b) 0.1 to 1 part of at least one gum of plant or microbial origin, and c) 0.1 to 2 parts of at least one cellulose derivative.

13. The thickening system as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that it consists of: a) 6 to 10 parts by dry weight of at least one pregelatinized starch, b) 0.2 to 0.8 part of at least one gum of plant or microbial origin, and c) 1 to 1.5 parts of at least one cellulose derivative.

14. A cosmetic composition, comprising the thickening system according to claim 1.

15. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 14, wherein said cosmetic composition is a makeup product for the eyes, a sun product, a body hygiene product, a haircare product or a fragrance.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Throughout the examples, various formulations were prepared, with the following products: Pregeflo CH 40 sold by the company Roquette Freres Xanthan gum sold by the company CP Kelco under the name Keltrol® CG-T Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) sold by the company Ashland Specialty Chemical under the name Natrosol™ 250 HHR PC

(2) Unless otherwise specified, all the formulations were prepared in the following manner: 1) Weigh out and mix the various thickeners 2) Heat the water to 40° C. 3) Using a turbomixer stirring at 2000 rpm, disperse the mixture of ingredients added gradually 4) Leave stirring until the emulsion is at room temperature.

(3) All the viscosities are determined using a Brookfield DV-II+ Pro viscometer.

Example 1

(4) This example illustrates the synergistic effect between the three constituents of the system, for thickening an aqueous solution. Table 1 below shows the weight percentage in water of each constituent, used alone, as a binary mixture, or as a ternary system. The thickening system according to the invention advantageously leads to the highest viscosity, while at the same time giving the most pleasant texture on the skin.

(5) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredients Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 2.5% Pregeflo CH 40    15 (SP3) 0.7% Xanthan gum  1 330 (SP3) 0.7% Hydroxyethylcellulose    770 (SP3) 0.7% Xanthan gum + 0.7%   4470 (SP4) hydroxyethylcellulose 2.5% Pregeflo CH 40 + 0.7% 11 135 (SP4) xanthan gum + 0.7% hydroxyethylcellulose

Example 2

(6) This example illustrates the syneresis effect observed, for control compositions not containing all three ingredients which constitute the thickening system according to the invention. Table 2 below shows the weight percentage in water of each constituent used, for the various combinations prepared. In all the cases, another constituent was added, which was the starch M-DF 12 S, a granular starch rather than a pregelatinized starch as defined above, but which has no real influence on the viscosity.

(7) It is found that all the systems outside the invention lead to very pronounced syneresis, which is a prohibitive point for their use in cosmetic formulations.

(8) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Starch Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) PREGEFLO Xanthan MDF 48 hours CH 40 gum HEC 12S at room temp. 1.5 0 0.7 1.8 Syneresis 2.5 0 0 1.5 Syneresis 1.9 0 0 2.1 Syneresis 1.5 0 0.7 1.8 Syneresis 1.9 0 0.5 1.6 Syneresis

Example 3

(9) This example illustrates the change in viscosity observed for aqueous solutions thickened with various thickening systems according to the invention, after 15 days, depending on whether said aqueous solutions were stored at 4, 40 or 50° C. Table 3 demonstrates noteworthy maintenance of the viscosity at all of these temperatures: there is virtually no influence of the storage temperature.

(10) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) % % % After After After Pregeflo xanthan hydroxyethyl 15 days 15 days at 15 days at CH40 gum cellulose at 4° C. 40° C. 50° C. 2.5 0.3 0.2  7 100 (SP4)  6 650 (SP4)  7 550 (SP4) 4 0.6 0.2 12 650 (SP5) 11 200 (SP5) 13 000 (SP5) 4 0.3 0.8 31 000 (SP6) 28 000 (SP6) 27 700 (SP6) 3.25 0.45 1 35 500 (SP6) 31 000 (SP6) 34 150 (SP6) 4 0.3 0.2 15 300 (SP6) 13 400 (SP6) 14 500 (SP6) 4.5 0.45 0.5 27 000 (SP6) 21 000 (SP6) 23 050 (SP6) 2.5 0.3 0.8 23 000 (SP6) 20 000 (SP6) 23 300 (SP6) 3.25 0.45 0.5 16 500 (SP6) 16 500 (SP6) 17 500 (SP6) 2.5 0.6 0.8 25 000 (SP6) 25 700 (SP6) 24 000 (SP6) 2 0.45 0.5 10 700 (SP6)  9 100 (SP6) 10 100 (SP6) 4 0.6 0.8 33 000 (SP6) 33 000 (SP6) 34 000 (SP6) 2.5 0.6 0.2 10 600 (SP6)  9 700 (SP6) 10 500 (SP6) 3.25 0.45 0  7 000 (SP6)  7 500 (SP6)  9 300 (SP6) 3.25 0.7 0.5 18 000 (SP6) 17 500 (SP6) 19 200 (SP6) 3.25 0.2 0.5 15 400 (SP6) 15 100 (SP6) 17 000 (SP6)

Example 4

(11) This example illustrates the change in various sensory parameters observed for aqueous solutions thickened with various thickening systems according to the invention, after 48 hours. Table 4 demonstrates that all of the formulations tested make it possible to obtain a satisfactory sensory configuration. In particular, a product that is sparingly runny, with a descriptor of less than or equal to 3, which spreads well, with a spreading descriptor of greater than or equal to 5 and usually greater than or equal to 7, sparingly tacky, with a corresponding descriptor of less than or equal to 4, and penetrating, with a corresponding sensory descriptor of greater than or equal to 6, is always obtained. With the exception of certain formulations rich in hydroxyethylcellulose, very white formulations, with whiteness descriptors of greater than or equal to 6, are obtained on the whole.

(12) The invention thus makes it possible to obtain products that are satisfactory from a sensory viewpoint.

(13) TABLE-US-00004 % % PREGEFLO Xanthan % Sensory evaluations after 48 hours CH40 gum HEC White Runny Spreading Tack Penetrating 2.5 0.3 0.2 7 2 8 2 8 4 0.6 0.2 7 3 7 0 8 4 0.3 0.8 6 3 5 3 6 3.25 0.45 1 3 2 5 3 6 4 0.3 0.2 9 2 7 2 7 4.5 0.45 0.5 6 3 5 4 8 2.5 0.3 0.8 8 2 7 0 6 3.25 0.45 0.5 8 3 7 0 9 2.5 0.6 0.8 5 2 5 1 7 2 0.45 0.5 8 1 7 2 7 4 0.6 0.8 4 3 7 2 8 2.5 0.6 0.2 9 3 9 3 7 3.25 0.45 0 9 3 8 3 7 3.25 0.7 0.5 8 2 8 3 8 3.25 0.2 0.5 9 2 8 4 8