COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, AMPHOTERIC SURFAC-TANTS, CATIONIC POLYMERS AND LIQUID FATTY SUBSTANCES CHOSEN FROM FATTY ALCO-HOLS AND FATTY ESTERS, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic polymers and liquid fatty substances chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty esters, and cosmetic treatment process. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising: one or more anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more cationic polymers with a high cationic charge density, one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols and monocarboxylic fatty acid esters, and also mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating, and more particularly for washing and conditioning, keratin materials, especially the hair, using the present composition.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: one or more anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric surfactants, one or more cationic polymers with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq./g, one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from non-oxyalkylenated alcohols comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, monocarboxylic acid esters comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: C6-C30 alkyl sulfates; C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfates; comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, C6-C30 alkylsulfosuccinates; C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, C6-C30 alkylsulfoacetates; polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24alkyl ether carboxylic acids, comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups; polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups; and also the salts of all these compounds.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfates, comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C30 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and optionally, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C30 alkylsulfoacetates.

4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising said anionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 2% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more amphoteric surfactants is chosen from: (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines; optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives of formulae (A1) and (A2) below:
R.sub.aCON(Z)CH.sub.2(CH.sub.2).sub.mN.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)(CH.sub.2COO.sup.)(A1) in which: R.sub.a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.aCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R.sub.b represents a -hydroxyethyl group, R.sub.c represents a carboxymethyl group; m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,
R.sub.aCON(Z)CH.sub.2(CH.sub.2).sub.mN(B)(B)(A2) in which: B represents CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OX, with X representing CH.sub.2COOH, CH.sub.2COOZ, CH.sub.2CH.sub.2COOH, CH.sub.2CH.sub.2COOZ, or a hydrogen atom, B represents (CH.sub.2).sub.zY, with z=1 or 2, and Y representing COOH, COOZ, CH.sub.2CHOHSO.sub.3H or CH.sub.2CHOHSO.sub.3Z, m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group, Z represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and from an amino alcohol; and R.sub.a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.aCOOH present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, a C.sub.17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C.sub.17 group. compounds of formula (A3):
R.sub.aNHCH(Y)(CH.sub.2)n-C(O)NH(CH.sub.2)n-N(R.sub.d)(R.sub.e)(A3) in which: R.sub.a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.aC(O)OH, which is present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil; Y represents the group C(O)OH, C(O)OZ, CH.sub.2CH(OH)SO.sub.3H or the group CH.sub.2CH(OH)SO.sub.3Z, with Z representing a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; R.sub.d and R.sub.e, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and n and n, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more amphoteric surfactants is chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 1, comprising said amphoteric surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising the anionic surfactant(s) and the amphoteric surfactant(s) in a total amount such that the weight ratio between anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 1.

9. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the cationic charge density of the one or more cationic polymer is greater than or equal to 5 meq./g.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more cationic polymers with a charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq./g, is chosen from: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae: ##STR00008## in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH.sub.3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; (2) Cationic polysaccharides; (3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers (4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; optionally crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a his-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; optionally the polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized; (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents; (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): ##STR00009## in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; Y.sup. is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfate, sulfate or phosphate; (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: ##STR00010## in which: R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or COOR17-D or CONHR17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X.sup. denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula OZO, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: (CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and [CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula NHYNH, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical CH2-CH2-SSCH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula NHCONH; (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): ##STR00011## in which: R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, 3-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, X.sup. denotes an anion, A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or represents CH2-CH2-OCH2-CH2-; (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; (11) Polyamines; (12) Polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below: ##STR00012## (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: ##STR00013## comprising one or more cationic polymers with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq./g, chosen from those of families (1), (7) and (10) mentioned above.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more cationic polymers with a charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq./g, is chosen from: crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound; homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and of acrylamide; quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight % of the cationic polymer(s) with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq./g is from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated liquid alcohol of structure ROH in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; R denoting a saturated, branched C8-C30, alkyl group, or a linear or branched, C8-C30 alkenyl group comprising 1 to 3 double bonds (CC).

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one liquid ester of monoalcohols or of polyols with monocarboxylic acids comprises from 8 to 32 carbon atoms in total and the acid from which the esters are obtained are branched.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one monocarboxylic acid ester is chosen from esters of a C6-C24 monocarboxylic acid and of a C2-C20 alcohol, at least one from among the acid and the alcohol being branched or unsaturated.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a weight % of the liquid fatty substances chosen from non-oxyalkylenated alcohols comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, monocarboxylic acid esters comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, is from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said liquid non-oxyalkylenated alcohol(s) comprising at least 8 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said liquid monocarboxylic acid ester(s) comprising at least 8 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better still from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising water in a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more polyols comprising from 1 to 7 carbon atoms in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more nonionic surfactants in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. A cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning, keratin materials, comprising the application to said materials of a composition according to claim 1, optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or a rinsing step and/or a drying step

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0212] The shampoo composition below according to the invention was prepared.

TABLE-US-00001 Composition weight % of AM Sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2 EO 7.35 Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 0.7 Disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate 1.8 Cocamidopropyl betaine 13.1 Polyquaternium-6 0.4 (Merquat 100) Octyldodecanol 0.1 Isopropyl myristate 1 PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.25 Glycerol 2 Hexylene glycol 1.7 Propylene glycol 0.7 NaCl 3.3 pH agent qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% Anionic SA/amphoteric SA ratio 0.75

[0213] A clear, colourless shampoo is obtained, which remains stable on storage (2 months at 45 C.), without phase separation or decantation.

[0214] It affords nutrition and styling to the hair, in particular to fine hair, without making it lank.

Example 2

[0215] The compositions according to the invention or the comparative compositions below were prepared (weight % of AM).

TABLE-US-00002 Composition Invention 2 Invention 3 Invention 4 Sodium lauryl 7.35 7.35 7.35 ether sulfate containing 2 EO Sodium lauryl 0.7 0.7 0.7 sulfoacetate Disodium lauryl 1.8 1.8 1.8 ether sulfosuccinate Cocamidopropyl- 13.1 13.1 13.1 betaine Polyquaternium-6 0.4 0.4 0.4 (Merquat 100) Octyldodecanol 0.2 0.1 0.1 PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.4 0.2 PEG-55 propylene 0.25 0.25 0.25 glycol oleate Glycerol 2% 2% 2% Hexylene glycol 1.7% 1.7% 1.7% Propylene glycol 0.7% 0.7% 0.7% NaCl 2.9% 2.9% 2.9% pH agent qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Anionic 0.75 0.75 0.75 SA/amphoteric SA ratio Appearance of Clear Clear Clear the composition Composition Invention 5 Invention 6 Invention 7 Sodium lauryl 7.35 7.35 7.35 ether sulfate containing 2 EO Sodium lauryl 0.7 0.7 sulfoacetate Disodium lauryl 1.8 1.8 ether sulfosuccinate Cocamidopropyl- 13.1 13.1 13.1 betaine Polyquaternium-6 0.4 0.4 0.4 (Merquat 100) 2-Decyl-1- 0.2% tetradecanol Isopropyl 1% 1% myristate PEG-55 propylene 0.25% 0.25% 0.25% glycol oleate Glycerol 2% 2% 2% Hexylene glycol 1.7% 1.7% 1.7% Propylene glycol 0.7% 0.7% 0.7% NaCl 2.9% 3.4% 3.4% pH agent qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Anionic SA/ 0.75 0.56 0.75 amphoteric SA ratio Appearance of Clear Clear Clear the composition Composition Control Comparative 1 Comparative 2 Sodium lauryl 7.35% AM 7.35% AM 7.35% AM ether sulfate containing 2 EO Cocamidopropyl- 13.1% AM 13.1% AM 13.1% AM betaine Polyquaternium-6 0.4% AM 0.4% AM 0.4% AM (Merquat 100) Olive oil 0.3% Sweet almond 0.3% (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil PEG-55 propylene 0.25% 0.25% 0.25% glycol oleate PEG-60 0.2% AM 0.2% AM Hydrogenated castor oil Glycerol 2% 2% 2% Hexylene glycol 1.7% 1.7% 1.7% Propylene glycol 0.7% 0.7% 0.7% NaCl 3.4% 3.4% 3.4% pH agent qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Anionic SA/ 0.56 0.56 0.56 amphoteric SA ratio Appearance of Clear Cloudy Cloudy the composition

[0216] With compositions 2 to 7 according to the invention, a clear shampoo that is stable on storage is obtained, which provides nutrition and styling to the hair, without making it lank.

[0217] The control shampoo which does not comprise any liquid fatty substance according to the invention is also clear, but it does not provide any nutrition or styling to the hair.

[0218] The comparative shampoos 1 and 2 which contain plant oils are, for their part, cloudy even from the moment of manufacture.