AQUEOUS DISPERSION OF POLYALKENE SUPRAMOLECULAR POLYMER AND ITS USE IN COSMETICS

Abstract

The present invention relates to an aqueous dispersion of polyalkene supramolecular polymer with a surfactant system chosen from an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant and a non-ionic surfactant. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising such a dispersion. Use for caring for and making up keratin materials.

Claims

1. An aqueous dispersion of supramolecular polyalkene polymer with a surfactant system chosen from: 1) at least one anionic surfactant optionally combined with at least one non-ionic surfactant, with the exclusion of the surfactant system containing only dodecyl sulfate and/or an alkali metal salt of dodecyl sulfate; 2) at least one cationic surfactant, optionally combined with at least one non-ionic surfactant; 3) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB greater than 10 or a mixture of ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB greater than 10, without being combined with an ionic surfactant.

2. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the supramolecular polyalkene polymer can be obtained from the condensation of at least one polyalkene polymer functionalized with at least one reactive group, with at least one junction group functionalized with at least one reactive group that can react with the reactive group(s) of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, said junction group being capable of forming at least three H (hydrogen) bonds.

3. The dispersion according to claim 2, characterized in that the functionalized polyalkene polymer has the formula:
HXPXH where XH and XH are reactive groups, with X and X, which may be identical or different, chosen from O, S, NH and NR.sub.a, R.sub.a representing a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl group; P represents a homo- or copolymer that can be obtained by polymerization of one or more linear, cyclic and/or branched, mono- or polyunsaturated C.sub.2-C.sub.5 alkenes.

4. The dispersion according to claim 3, characterized in that P represents a polyethylene, a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a hydrogenated polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly(1,3-pentadiene), a polyisobutylene, and copolymers thereof.

5. The dispersion according to claim 4, wherein X=X=0.

6. The dispersion according to claim 2, wherein the functionalized junction group has the formula: ##STR00052## in which L is a saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, linear, cyclic and/or branched C1-C20 divalent (alkylene) carbon-based group, optionally comprising 1 to 4 N and/or 0 heteroatoms.

7. The dispersion according to claim 6, wherein L is a divalent substituent chosen from phenylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6-(2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4-(4-methylpentylene), 1,5-(5-methylhexylene), 1,6-(6-methylheptylene), 1,5-(2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7-(3,7-dimethyloctylene), -isophorone-, 4,4-methylene bis(cyclohexylene), tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene, and 4,4-biphenylenemethylene.

8. The dispersion according to claim 3, wherein the supramolecular polymer corresponds to the formula: ##STR00053## or formula (C2): ##STR00054##

9. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises at least one anionic surfactant, with the exclusion of the surfactant system comprising only dodecyl sulfate and/or an alkali metal salt of dodecyl sulfate.

10. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is chosen from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

11. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is chosen from acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; where these compounds may be are optionally polyoxyethylenated.

12. The aqueous dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; where these compounds are optionally polyoxyethylenate.

13. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a cationic surfactant.

14. The dispersion according to claim 14, wherein the cationic surfactant is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ia): ##STR00055## in which: groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group, at least one of the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11 containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally the linear or branched aliphatic groups include a heteroatom, these heteroatoms not being adjacent, and halogens; and X.sup. is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfonates and (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylaryl sulfonates; C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkoxy, (C.sub.2-C.sub.6)polyoxyalkylene, C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkylamide, (C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkyl(C.sub.2C.sub.6)alkylamido, (C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkyl acetate and C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

15. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein one the surfactant system comprises a non-ionic surfactant.

16. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters; and mixtures thereof.

17. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a non-ionic surfactant having HLB greater than 10.

18. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 10

19. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a mixture of non-ionic surfactant of polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (4 EO) and polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (23 EO).

20. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a combination of anionic surfactant and non-ionic surfactant chosen from: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)/sodium decyl sulfate polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)/sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate Laurylethersulfate/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) Laurylethersulfate/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Laurylethersulfate/polyglyceryl-4 iso stearate.

21. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises a combination of cationic surfactant and non-ionic surfactant chosen from: cetrimonium chloride/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) behenyl trimethylammonium chloride/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) cetrimonium chloride/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and behenyl trimethylammonium chloride/polyglyceryl-4 iso stearate.

22. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the supramolecular polymer is present in a content ranging from 2% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

23. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant system is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

24. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the supramolecular polymer and the surfactant system are present in an polymer/surfactant weight ratio ranging from 9 to 49.

25. A process for preparing an aqueous dispersion of polymer as defined according to claim 1, comprising the following steps: (i) a synthesis step of the polyalkene supramolecular polymer in an organic solvent S like 2-methyl tetrahydrofuran, ethyl acetate; (ii) then an addition step: either of an aqueous solution containing the surfactant system, or of an organic solution containing the organic solvent S and the surfactant system then water addition; (iii) then a step of dispersion of the mixture obtained under stirring; and (iv) then a step of evaporation of the organic solvent S.

26. A composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of polyalkene supramolecular polymer according to claim 1.

27. The composition according to claim 26, wherein it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

28. The composition according to claim 26, wherein the polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition according to claim 26, which comprises at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from colorants, fillers, oils, waxes, pastes, additional surfactants, UV filters, cosmetic actives; fragrances, propellants, additional film-forming polymers, thickeners, and preservatives.

30. A cosmetic process for treating keratin materials comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition according to claim 26.

31. The process according to claim 30, which is a cosmetic process for caring for or making up keratin materials.

Description

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1 TO 11: AQUEOUS DISPERSIONS WITH ANIONIC SURFACTANT SYSTEM

[0305]

TABLE-US-00001 Solids Polymer/ content surfactant of the Example Polymer Surfactant system (put in solution in) ratio dispersion 1 Polymer 1 Sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate (water) 97/3 20.4%.sup. 2 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2 EO 91/9 18% (water) 3 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2 EO 91/9 25% (water)/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (2-MeTHF) 50/50 4 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2 EO 91/9 20% (water)/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (2-MeTHF) 10/90 5 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2 EO 91/9 15% (water)/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (2 MeTHF) 50/50 6 Polymer 1 Mixture of polyoxyethylenated 91/9 11% sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)/ sodium dodecyl sulfate (90/10) 7 Polymer 1 Mixture of polyoxyethylenated 91/9 13% sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)/ sodium dodecyl sulfate (50/50) 8 Polymer 1 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 91/9 10.8%.sup. 2 EO (water) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (2 MeTHF) 10/90 9 Polymer 1 Sodium decyl sulfate (water) 91/9 15% 10 Polymer 2 Sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate 97/3 24% (water) 11 (outside Polymer 1 Sodium dodecyl sulfate (water) 91/9 unstable the invention)

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 12 TO 17: AQUEOUS DISPERSIONS WITH CATIONIC SURFACTANT (INVENTION) OR AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT (OUTSIDE THE INVENTION)

[0306]

TABLE-US-00002 Solids Polymer/ content surfactant of the Example Polymer Surfactant system (put in solution in) ratio dispersion 12 Polymer 1 Behenyltrimethylammonium 91/9 21% chloride (water) 13 Polymer 1 Cetrimonium chloride (water) 97/3 26.5%.sup. 14 Polymer 1 behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 91/9 14% (water)/polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (water) (10/90) 15 Polymer 1 cetrimonium chloride (water)/ 91/9 16% polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (water) (10/90) 16 Polymer 1 cetrimonium chloride (water)/ 91/9 26% polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (water) (10/90) 17 (outside Polymer 1 cocobetain (water) 91/9 unstable the invention)

COMPARISON EXAMPLES 18 TO 22: AQUEOUS DISPERSIONS WITH NON-IONIC SURFACTANT

[0307]

TABLE-US-00003 Solids Polymer/ content surfactant of the Example Polymer Surfactant system (put in solution in) ratio dispersion 18 Polymer 1 polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate 91/9 18% (2 Me THF) HLB = 15.3 19 Polymer 1 polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (23 91/9 34% EO) (water)/polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (4 EO) (95/5) (2 MeTHF) HLB = 16 20 Polymer 1 polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (23 91/9 18.5%.sup. EO) (water)/polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (4 EO) (2MeTHF) (80/20) HLB = 15.1 21 (outside Polymer 1 polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (4 EO) 91/9 unstable the invention) HLB = 10 (2 MeTHF) 22 (outside Polymer 1 polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (2 MeTHF) 91/9 unstable the invention) HLB = 5

Evaluation of the Low-Tack Appearance of the Polymer Films

[0308] The low-tack appearance of the polymer films obtained from aqueous dispersions of Examples 1 (Polymer 1) and 10 (Polymer 2) was evaluated by adjusting by dilution with water to a polymer content of 20% by weight.

[0309] For comparison, a solution of Polymer 1 and a solution of Polymer 2 at 10% by weight in isododecane were also prepared.

[0310] The aqueous dispersions were spread on glass plates then left to dry for 7 days at ambient temperature (23 C.) whereas the organic solutions were spread on contrast card then left to dry for 24 hours at ambient temperature (23 C.). The films prepared were 30 m thick after drying.

[0311] Next, for each film, tack (expressed in N) was measured using the automated platform (Freeslate/Symyx Core module) to determine the detachment force exerted by the film during the removal phase of a flexible Viton ball 10 mm in diameter in contact with the film in the following conditions: rate of approach and removal of the ball: 5 mm/s, ball-film contact time: 5 s, contact force exerted by the ball: 1 N.

[0312] The following results were obtained:

TABLE-US-00004 Tack (N) Polymer dispersion 1 (ex 1) 0.02 Polymer solution 1 in isododecane 0.12 Polymer dispersion 2 (ex 10) 0.12 Polymer 2 solution in isododecane 0.55

[0313] The results show that the aqueous dispersions of Examples 1 and 10 according to the invention form a film having lower tack than that of the film obtained from solutions of the same polymer in isododecane.

[0314] So the aqueous dispersion of polymer produces a less tacky polymer film.

Example 23

[0315] The following composition is prepared (% by weight):

TABLE-US-00005 Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10% Xanthan gum 2% Fragrance qs Water qs 100%

[0316] The composition applied to the skin forms a non-tacky film.

Example 24

[0317] The following skin makeup composition is prepared (% by weight):

TABLE-US-00006 Aqueous dispersion of Example 10 10% Xanthan gum 2% Fragrance qs Water-soluble dye qs Water qs 100%

[0318] The composition applied to the skin forms a coloured non-tacky film.

Example 25

[0319] The following hair composition is prepared (% by weight):

TABLE-US-00007 Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10% Xanthan gum 2% Fragrance qs Water qs 100%

[0320] The composition applied to the hair forms a coating, non-tacky film.

Example 26

[0321] The following mascara composition is prepared (% by weight):

TABLE-US-00008 Aqueous dispersion of Example 1 10% Xanthan gum 3% Black iron oxides qs Water qs 100%

[0322] The composition applied to the lashes forms a coating, non-tacky film.