PREBIOTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND USE OF THE PREBIOTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

This invention relates to prebiotic cosmetic compositions comprising at least one ingredient with prebiotic activity selected from sugars, oils and extracts for the treatment of signs of aging on the skin, fostering well-balanced skin, nourishing beneficial micro-organisms in the skin biota, protecting it from harsh environmental aspects, strengthening it, reducing sensitivity and irritations, and improving its defense system.

Claims

1. PREBIOTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS characterized in that they comprise at least one ingredient with prebiotic activity selected from sugars, oils and extracts and cosmetically acceptable carriers.

2. COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that the sugar is selected from trehalose, babassu palm starch, the oil is selected from crabwood (andiroba), moriche (buriti) palm, Brazilnut, micro-algae and wild sage (guaatonga) extract.

3. COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that it is for topical application.

4. COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that they are simultaneously anti-aging.

5. COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that they act directly on cell proliferation, skin protection and sensitivity reduction through acting on IL-6, IL-8, IL-10 and PGE2 synthesis, together with firmness and elasticity through acting on collagen and elastin, glycosaminoglycans and metalloproteinase modulation.

6. USE OF PREBIOTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that they are simultaneously anti-aging.

7. USE OF PREBIOTIC COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS, according to claim 1, characterized in that they are for cell proliferation, skin protection and sensitivity reduction through acting on IL-6, IL-8, IL-10 and PGE2 synthesis, together with firmness and elasticity through acting on collagen and elastin, glycosaminoglycans and metalloproteinase modulation.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0042] FIG. 1 presents compared assay results with different candidate prebiotic ingredients, showing the prebiotic effects of trehalose and babassu palm starch.

[0043] FIG. 2 presents compared assay results with different candidate prebiotic ingredients, showing the prebiotic effects of crabwood (andiroba), Brazilnut and moriche (buriti) palm oils.

[0044] FIG. 3 presents compared assay results with different candidate prebiotic ingredients, showing the prebiotic effects of wild sage (Guaatonga) extract.

[0045] FIGS. 4A-D to 10A-D show the effects of trehalose, babassu palm starch (LIMS5345), crabwood (andiroba) oil (LIMS16648) and moriche (buriti) palm oil (SAP50002446) on elastin, GAG, IL-6, IL-8 and IL-10 syntheses, MMP-1 production and cell proliferation rates in human fibroblast cultures. The data indicate the meanthe standard deviation for different independent experiments. **P<0.01, compared to the Baseline Control group (ANOVA, Dunnet).

[0046] FIGS. 11A and 11B show skin protection results for S. epidermidis against S. aureuspreventive effect.

[0047] FIGS. 12A and 12B show skin protection results for S. epidermidis against S. aureuspreventive effect.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0048] In an initial aspect, the present invention refers to prebiotic cosmetic compositions comprising at least one ingredient with prebiotic activity selected from sugars, oils and extracts for the treatment of signs of aging on the skin, fostering well-balanced skin, nourishing beneficial micro-organisms in the skin biota, protecting it from harsh environmental aspects, strengthening it, reducing sensitivity and irritations, and improving its defense system, with proven in vitro efficacy.

[0049] Particularly, the sugar according to this invention is selected from trehalose and/or babassu palm starch, the oils are selected from crabwood (andiroba), moriche (buriti) palm, Brazilnut and/or micro-algae and wild sage (guaatonga) extract.

[0050] The prebiotic cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention may be presented in different cosmetic forms, including but not limited to, emulsions, gels, powders and sticks, among others, including carriers that are cosmetically suitable for the selected cosmetic form.

[0051] The prebiotic cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention are intended for topical administration and foster the proliferation of S. epidermidis, no increase in harmful micro-organisms.

[0052] Surprisingly, a prebiotic effect was noted, caused by the active ingredients in the topical prebiotic cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention, whereby not only is it efficient for reducing harmful skin bacteria, fostering beneficial skin bacteria and ensuring evenly-balanced microbiota, it also leads to an even skin balance and the nutrition thereof, stimulating cell turnover, cell renewal, tissue renewal, cutaneous integrity and natural skin defense/protection, resulting in advantageous cosmetic effects such as enhanced skin firmness and elasticity, increase in the skin structuring matrix, strengthening skin architecture and restoring skin density, in addition to providing protection against enzymes that degrade the skin structuring matrix, protection against microinflammation, prevention of microdamage, protection against external aggression, soothing effects and more apparent effects on firmness.

[0053] Due to these and other effects noted, the topical cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention are used as anti-aging agents.

[0054] In another aspect, the topical prebiotic cosmetic compositions according to this invention present an anti-aging effect, acting directly on cell proliferation, skin protection and sensitivity reduction (through acting on IL-6, IL-8, IL-10 and PGE2 synthesis) together with firmness and elasticity (through acting on collagen and elastin; glycosaminoglycans and metalloproteinase modulation).

[0055] The increase in IL-6 and PGE2 reduces the responsiveness of innate immunity cells to external stimuli, such as variations temperature, moisture and UV radiation. The increase in IL-10 modulates the responsiveness of lymphocytes to stimuli such as inorganic particles and other micro-organisms. The reduction in IL-8 lowers the inflammatory cascade activation threshold without adversely affecting skin protection. In turn, increased collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) lead to greater firmness and elasticity for the dermis. Metalloproteinase modulation 1 (MMP-1) regulates collagen degradation and ensures skin physiology maintenance.

[0056] Particularly, babassu palm starch nourishes the skin, as this is a glucose dimer, protecting it by increasing the S. epidermidis population that produces AMPs and modulates inflammatory cytokines.

[0057] In addition to the benefits listed above, trehalose and moriche (buriti) palm oil also renew the skin by increasing the proliferation of fibroblasts and increasing skin hydration through increased absorption and retention of water by the skin, in addition to enhanced skin elasticity through elastin synthesis, together with odor control through not stimulating the proliferation of Corynebacteria.

[0058] The topical prebiotic cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention may be presented in any suitable cosmetic for application to the face or body for treatment or cleaning purposes with no constraints, as known to a person skilled in the art, including emulsions, solutions, powders, gels, pastes and toilet soaps, among others.

[0059] Cosmetically acceptable carriers may be selected from compounds known at the state of the art. Without imposing any constraints, they may consist of emollient, antioxidant, moisturizing, emulsifying and surfactant agents, texture or viscosity modifiers, preservatives, chelating, stabilizing and solubilizing agents, lubricants, thickeners, dispersants, and other cosmetically acceptable carriers. In another aspect, this invention also encompasses use of the cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention simultaneously as a prebiotic, selective bacteriostatic and skin anti-aging agent, together with the use of the active ingredients described herein, either alone or in combination, for the preparation of cosmetic compositions that are simultaneously pre-biotic, selective bacteriostatic and skin anti-aging agents.

[0060] The following examples illustrate this invention, without imposing any constraints thereon.

Examples

Assessment of Effects

[0061] When a concentration of 10{circumflex over ()}4 UFC/ml was reached, the micro-organisms were transferred to a minimal carbon support medium that provided the conditions required for micro-organism replication.

[0062] Each active ingredient in the compositions addressed by this invention was added to the culture medium and cultivated. Should any increased count be noted, the ingredient would be considered as having prebiotic activity.

[0063] The results of each assay were submitted to statistical analysis. The active ingredients used in the prebiotic cosmetic compositions addressed by this invention were tested on different micro-organisms.

[0064] The beneficial micro-organisms assayed were: Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus xylosus, Staphylococcus warneri, Staphylococcus captis and Corynebacterium xerosis.

[0065] The undesirable micro-organisms assayed were: Staphylococcus aureus, Corynebacterium striatum, Corynebacterium jeikeium, Propioniumbacteria acnes and Candida albicans.

[0066] It was noted that inulin, which is widely used as a prebiotic in the food industry, did not present selectivity for any of the tested skin-dwelling micro-organisms, as shown in FIG. 1.

[0067] This Figure also shows that trehalose, which is a cosmetic ingredient used for hydration, selectively favored the growth of S. xylosus and S. epidermidis (0.5%). This difference indicates differences in the microbial mechanism, with S. epidermidis being more sensitive to variations in the concentration of this active ingredient. Used as a texture modifier, babassu palm starch (polisensi) selectively favored S. xylosus, S. warneri and S. captis.

[0068] FIG. 2 shows that crabwood (andiroba), Brazilnut and moriche (buriti) palm oils presented prebiotic activity, selectively modifying beneficial skin bacteria.

[0069] Crabwood (andiroba) oil fostered the growth of S. xylosus at all tested concentrations, and S. epidermidis at a concentration of 1%.

[0070] Moriche (buriti) palm oil fostered the growth of S. xylosus at all tested concentrations, and S. epidermidis as from 0.1%. The variation noted for S. xylosus falls within the margin of error for the test (20%).

[0071] FIG. 3 shows that wild sage (guaatonga) extract fostered the growth of S. epidermidis at a concentration of 0.01% and S. xylosus at a concentration of 0.5%. This difference suggests that metabolic variations between the micro-organisms are sensitive to increased quantities of components in the extract.

[0072] In order to demonstrate the simultaneous effects described here, the active ingredients listed herein were tested against the anti-age mark parameters under assessment, including cell proliferation, IL-6 synthesis, IL-8, IL-10 and PGE2 synthesis, elastin; GAGs and MMP-1.

[0073] The results are presented in Table 1 below.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 RESULTS FOR THE ASSESSED ANTI-AGE MARK ACTIVITY PARAMETERS Fibroblast proliferation IL-8 IL-6 IL-10 PGE.sub.2 Elastin GAGs MMP-1 Babassu Reduction Increase Reduction Increase Reduction palm starch of 13% of 65% of 30% of 60% of 40% (0.01%-0.05%) (0.02%) (0.02%) (0.02%) (0.02%) Trehalose Increase (0.1%-1%) of 33% Moriche Dose- Reduction Reduction Dose- Reduction Reduction (buriti) Dependent of 33% of 63% Dependent of 42% of 13% palm oil Increase of (0.07%) (0.02%-0.07%) Increase of (0.07%) (0.02%) (0.07%-0.3%) 47% to 103%, 70% to 80% (0.02%-0.07%) Feville Increase Reduction Reduction of Reduction Reduction of Increase of Increase oil at of 20% of 25% 73% to 37% of 58% 36% to 60% 60% to 36% of 46% (0.01%-0.4%) (0.01%-0.02%) (0.04%) (0.04%-0.01%) (0.04%-0.01%) (0.04%-0.01%) (0.04%-0.01%) (0.02%)

[0074] Tests conducted under the aegis of this invention showed that the extrapolation of the activities of intestinal prebiotics to the skin did not prove true, stressing that each system is endowed with micro-organisms that are closely adapted thereto, with specific needs. Furthermore, it was noted that S. epidermidis and S. xylosus remained the main skin micro-organisms, even in the course of aging.

[0075] The literature shows that uncontrolled proliferation of S. epidermidis and S. xylosus leads to infectious conditions that are similar to those caused by S. aureus.

[0076] The prebiotic activity noted during the in vitro tests conducted for this invention may be facilitated in vivo, particularly for moriche (buriti) palm oil, due to the permeation facilitating activity of oleic acid (77% of the fatty composition of moriche (buriti) palm oil), which increases its availability to micro-organisms found at all skin levels.

[0077] FIGS. 4A-D to 10A-D show the effects of trehalose on elastin, GAG, IL-6, IL-8 and IL-10 syntheses, MMP-1 production and cell proliferation rates in human fibroblast cultures.

[0078] FIG. 4A shows that trehalose increased elastin synthesis human fibroblast cultures, when applied at concentrations of 6.25%; 3.12% and 1.56% (w/v) at 60%, 68% and 75%, respectively, compared to the Baseline Control group. Human fibroblast cultures were incubated for 48 hours with the product.

[0079] FIG. 4B shows that babassu palm starch increased elastin synthesis in human fibroblast cultures when applied at concentrations of 0.024%; 0.012% and 0.006% (w/v) at 68%, 75% and 75%, respectively, compared to the Baseline Control group. Human fibroblast cultures were incubated for 48 hours with the product.

[0080] FIG. 4C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil increased elastin synthesis in human fibroblast cultures when applied at concentrations of 0.039%; 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v) at 61.59% and 36%, respectively, compared to the Baseline Control group. Human fibroblast cultures were incubated for 48 hours with the product.

[0081] FIG. 4D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil increased elastin synthesis in human fibroblast cultures when applied at concentrations of 0.078%; 0.039% and 0.019% (w/v) at 88%, 80% and 70%, respectively, compared to the Baseline Control group. Human fibroblast cultures were incubated for 48 hours with the product.

[0082] FIG. 5A shows that trehalose significantly lowered GAG levels by 59% and 23%, when applied at concentrations of 6.25% and 3.12% (w/v), respectively, in a human fibroblast culture, for a period of 72 hours.

[0083] FIG. 5B shows that babassu palm starch significantly lowered GAG levels when applied at a concentration of 0.024% (w/v) at up to 40% in a human fibroblast culture, for a period of 72 hours.

[0084] FIG. 5C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil proved able to increase GAG levels by 26.46% and 29%, when applied at concentrations of 0.039%, 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v) in a human fibroblast culture, for a period of 72 hours, being statistically significant at a concentration of 0.019%.

[0085] FIG. 5D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil significantly lowered GAG levels when applied at a concentration of 0.078% (w/v) at up to 42% in a human fibroblast culture, for a period of 72 hours.

[0086] FIG. 6A shows that trehalose, when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 6.25% and 3.12% (w/v), resulted in a drop of 78% and 19%, respectively for IL-6 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0087] FIG. 6B shows that babassu palm starch when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.024%; 0.012% and 0.006% (w/v), did not cause any alteration to IL-6 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0088] FIG. 6C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.039%; 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v), resulted in a drop of 73.52% and 37%, respectively for IL-6 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0089] FIG. 6D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.078%; 0.039% and 0.019% (w/v), resulted in a drop of 33%, 14% and 10%, respectively for IL-6 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0090] FIG. 7A shows that trehalose, when applied to cell cultures at a concentration of 3.12% (w/v), caused a statistically significant reduction of 16% for IL-8 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of the LPS Control.

[0091] FIG. 7B shows that babassu palm starch when applied to cell cultures at a concentration of 0.024% (w/v), caused a statistically significant reduction of 13% for IL-8 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of the LPS Control.

[0092] FIG. 7C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.039%; 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v), caused a statistically significant reduction of 25%, 17% and 13%, respectively in the synthesis of IL-8 in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of the LPS Control.

[0093] FIG. 7D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.039%; 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v), did not cause any statistically significant alteration to IL-8 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of the LPS Control.

[0094] FIG. 8 shows that trehalose, when applied to cell cultures, caused reductions of up to 31% for IL-10 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0095] FIG. 8B shows that babassu palm starch when applied to cell cultures, caused reductions of up to 65% for IL-10 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0096] FIG. 8C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil when applied to cell cultures at caused reductions of up to 58% for IL-10 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0097] FIG. 8D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil when applied to cell cultures, caused reductions of up to 63% for IL-10 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with PMA/LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0098] FIG. 9 shows that trehalose, when applied to cell cultures, at a concentration of 6.25% (p/v), caused a 20% reduction in MMP-1 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0099] FIG. 9B shows that babassu palm starch when applied to cell cultures at concentrations of 0.024%; 0.012% and 0.006% (w/v), did not cause any alteration to MMP-1 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0100] FIG. 9C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil when applied to cell cultures at a concentration of 0.0098% (w/v), resulted in a drop of 9% for MMP-1 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0101] FIG. 9D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil when applied to cell cultures at a concentration of 0.039% (w/v), resulted in a drop of 13% for MMP-1 synthesis in human fibroblast cultures stimulated with LPS, in terms of PMA/LPS Control.

[0102] FIG. 10 shows that trehalose proved able to increase proliferation during the length of time assessed at concentrations of 6.250%; 3.125% and 1.563% (w/v) in 12.25% and 33%, respectively, compared to the Control group for the same length of time.

[0103] FIG. 10B shows that babassu palm starch proved unable to alter proliferation during the length of time assessed at the tested concentrations of 0.048%, 0.024% and 0.012% (w/v) compared to the Control group for the same length of time.

[0104] FIG. 10C shows that crabwood (andiroba) oil proved able to increase proliferation during the length of time assessed at the tested concentrations of 0.039%; 0.019% and 0.0098% (w/v) at 21%, 17% and 20%, respectively, compared to the Control group for the same length of time.

[0105] FIG. 10D shows that moriche (buriti) palm oil proved able to increase proliferation during the length of time assessed at concentrations of 0.3125%, 0.1563% and 0.0781% (w/v) at 47.77% and 103%, respectively, compared to the Control group for the same length of time.

[0106] As a positive assay control, human fibroblasts were cultivated in a culture medium supplemented with 2% of fetal bovine serum.

[0107] The protective effect of S. epidermidis against S. aureus in keratinocytes (HaCaT) in a culture was also assessed.

[0108] To do so, Step I consisted of defining the bacteria concentration through cell feasibility; Step II consisted of prebiotic dilution; Step III consisted of a preventive protocol (S. epidermidis prevents the adhesion of S. aureus); and Step IV consisted of a competition protocol (S. epidermidis prevents the adhesion of S. aureus).

[0109] FIGS. 11A and 11B show skin protection results for S. epidermidis against S. aureuspreventive effect.

[0110] FIGS. 12A and 12B show skin protection results for S. epidermidis against S. aureuspreventive effect.

[0111] Together, these results show that the prebiotic effect caused by the active ingredients in the topical prebiotic cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is not only efficient for reducing harmful skin bacteria and fostering beneficial skin bacteria, ensuring an evenly-balanced microbiota, but also ensures a well-balanced skin that is nourished, stimulating cell turnover, cell renewal, tissue renewal, cutaneous integrity and natural skin defense/protection, resulting in advantageous cosmetic effects such as enhanced skin firmness and elasticity, increase in the skin structuring matrix, strengthening skin architecture and restoring skin density, in addition to providing protection against enzymes that degrade the skin structuring matrix, protection against microinflammation, prevention of microdamage, protection against external aggression, soothing effects

[0112] A person skilled in the art would promptly assess the advantages of the invention through the teachings in the text and the examples presented, proposing equivalent variations and alternative embodiments without extending beyond the scope of the invention, as defined in the Claims appended hereto.