Gel-type cosmetic composition

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, including: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; the phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

Claims

1. Cosmetic gel/gel type composition, different from an emulsion, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin, being a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is a mixture of hydrophobic silica chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogels and of organopolysiloxane elastomer chosen from dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone crosspolymer-3; the said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; on condition that when the lipophilic gelling agent consists of a trimethyl silica, then the polymeric gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin does not consist of 3% or more of potato carboxymethyl starch.

2. Composition according to claim 1, containing at least one dyestuff.

3. Composition according to claim 1, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 95/5 to 5/95.

4. Composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a foundation, a face powder, an eyeshadow, a lipstick, a mascara and/or a care composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising volatile and/or non volatile silicone oils.

6. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising a moisturizer.

7. Composition according to claim 1, for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

8. Composition according to claim 1, containing at least one dyestuff present at least in the gelled oily phase.

9. Composition according to claim 1, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 60/40 to 70/30.

10. Process for preparing a gel/gel type cosmetic composition, different from an emulsion, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step of mixing: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin, being a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is a mixture of hydrophobic silica chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogels and of organopolysiloxane elastomer chosen from dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone crosspolymer-3; under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

11. Process according to claim 10, in which the mixture is prepared at room temperature.

12. Process according to claim 10, comprising a step of mixing at least three or even more gelled phases.

13. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising at least one step which consists in applying to the said keratin material a gel/gel type cosmetic composition, different from an emulsion, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin, being a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent that is a mixture of hydrophobic silica chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogels and of organopolysiloxane elastomer chosen from dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone crosspolymer-3; the said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; on condition that when the lipophilic gelling agent consists of a trimethyl silica or a crosslinked polymer of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, then the polymeric gelling agent which is natural or of natural origin does not consist of 3% or more of potato carboxymethyl starch.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) Foundation formulations in accordance with the invention are prepared from the phases described below.

(2) 1) Preparation of the Aqueous Phase A1

(3) The aqueous phase is prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions stated in the table below.

(4) Phase A1 gives freshness and lightness.

(5) TABLE-US-00001 Phase A1: Weight % Phase Compounds Phase A1 1 Water qs 100 Phenoxyethanol 1 2 Glycerol 10 Xanthan gum 1.5 Chondrus crispus powder 1 3 Calcium chloride 0.075 Water 0.675

(6) Phase 2 is prepared at room temperature in a tank equipped with a deflocculating paddle, using the compounds mentioned in the above table, in the stated weight proportions.

(7) Phase 3 consists of a solution of calcium chloride dissolved in water at room temperature.

(8) The constituents of phase 1 are placed in a manufacturing tank equipped with a rotor/stator turbomixer, with axial and scraping paddles.

(9) The turbomixer stirrer is switched on and phases 2 and 3 are then added with stirring.

(10) The mixture is heated to 75 C. then and stirred until all of the constituents have been totally dispersed.

(11) The mixture is left to cool to 25 C.

(12) The cooling kinetics and the stirring parameters are adjusted as a function of the desired final texture.

(13) TABLE-US-00002 Phase A2 Weight % Compounds Phase A2 Water qs 100 Glycerol 8.82 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Carboxymethyl starch, sodium salt 9.25 Glycolys from the company Roquette

(14) 2) Preparation of the Oily Phases

(15) The oily phases are prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions stated in the tables below.

(16) TABLE-US-00003 Phase B1: Weight % Compounds Phase B1 Yellow iron oxide 4.92 Red iron oxide 1.00 Black iron oxide 0.35 Titanium dioxide 31.24 Isononyl isononanoate qs 100 Bentone gel (Bentone Gel ISD V sold by the company 35.00 Elementis (87% isododecane/10% disteardimonium hectorite/ (*3.50) 3% propylene carbonate)) (*% of disteardimonium hectorite solids)

(17) The pigments are ground with 15% of the ester using a three-roll mill.

(18) The ground material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender at room temperature.

(19) The gel of bentone in isododecane is added and the mixture is then stirred moderately for 20 minutes, during which time the gel slowly thickens at room temperature.

(20) TABLE-US-00004 Phase B2: Weight % Compounds Phase B2 Yellow iron oxide 4.92 Red iron oxide 1.00 Black iron oxide 0.35 Titanium dioxide 31.24 Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate qs 100 Isohexadecane 21.50 Silica silylate (VM-2270 sold by the company Dow 6.00 Corning)

(21) TABLE-US-00005 Phase B3: Weight % Compounds Phase B3 Yellow iron oxide 4.92 Red iron oxide 1.00 Black iron oxide 0.35 Titanium dioxide 31.24 Isononyl isononanoate qs 100 C30-50 alcohols (Performacol 550 Alcohol sold by 8.00 the company New Phase Technologies) Polyethylene (Asensa SC 211 sold by the company 2.00 Honeywell)

(22) The pigments are ground with 15% of the ester using a three-roll mill.

(23) The ground material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender at room temperature.

(24) The polyethylene and the alcohol wax are added.

(25) The mixture is heated at 95 C. for 25 to 30 minutes.

(26) The mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature.

(27) TABLE-US-00006 Phase B4: Weight % Compounds Phase B4 Yellow iron oxide 4.92 Red iron oxide 1.00 Black iron oxide 0.35 Titanium dioxide 31.24 Isononyl isononanoate qs 100 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane 7.48 (SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning) Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl KL2 sold by the company 2.44 Chiba Flour Milling)

(28) The pigments are ground with 15% of the ester using a three-roll mill.

(29) The ground material and the remainder of the oil are placed in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender at room temperature.

(30) The wax and the dextrin palmitate are added.

(31) The mixture is heated at 95 C. for 25 to 30 minutes.

(32) The mixture is allowed to cool to room temperature.

(33) 3) Preparation of Foundation Formulations

(34) These formulations are obtained by mixing several phases intended to form the foundations in accordance with the invention, in the proportions described below in Table 1.

(35) The combination of the various phases is established as a function of the desired properties.

(36) TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 1 Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Technical performance Phase Phase Phase Phase Phase Formulations quality(ies) obtained A1 A2 B1 B3 B4 Formulation 1 Granita 60.00 40.00 Formulation 2 Cream 60.00 40.00 Formulation 3 Cream freshness 60.00 40.00 Formulation 4 Cream freshness 50.00 50.00

(37) The texture obtained for formulation 2 has the appearance of a light foam. The texture spreads very well and the makeup deposit is highly covering and homogeneous. The film is comfortable throughout the day.

(38) The texture obtained for formulation 3 is smooth and homogeneous, and appears to have been whipped. It is fresh and very light to take up.

(39) The formulation has good glidance on the skin on application.

(40) The skin finish is unified, non-greasy and sparingly tacky.

Example 2

(41) Care formulations in accordance with the invention are prepared from the phases described below.

(42) 1) Preparation of the Aqueous Phase A3

(43) The aqueous phase A3 is prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions stated in the table below.

(44) TABLE-US-00008 Phase A3: Weight % Compounds Phase A3 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium 1.3 polyacryldimethyltauramide Caprylyl glycol 0.5 Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer as a suspension 8.67 in water (BY29119 sold by the company Dow Corning) Glycerol 13 Propylene glycol 8.67 Water qs 100 Carboxymethyl starch, sodium salt 1.73 Phenoxyethanol 0.5

(45) Phase A3 is obtained by mixing at room temperature all the constituents described in the above table except for the carboxymethyl starch and the dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone solution.

(46) After total dissolution of the constituents in the water, the carboxymethyl starch and the aqueous solution of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone are then added to the mixture.

(47) 2) Preparation of the Oily Phase B5

(48) The oily phase is prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions stated in the table below.

(49) TABLE-US-00009 Phase B5: Weight % Compounds Phase B5 Silica silylate (VM-2270 sold by the company Dow 5.18 Corning) 84.5% Dimethicone/15.5% dimethicone crosspolymer 33.09 (DC9041 sold by the company Dow Corning) (5.13*) Acrylate copolymer 0.33 Isostearyl neopentanoate 36.29 Isononyl isononanoate 1.75 Hydrogenated polyisobutene qs 100 Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 3.24 (*% of dimethicone crosspolymer solids)

(50) Phase B5 is obtained by mixing in a mixer of kneader type, at room temperature, all of the constituents described in the above table in the weight proportions specified therein, until a homogeneous gel is obtained.

(51) 3) Preparation of the Care Formulations 5, 6 and 7

(52) These formulations are obtained by mixing phases A3 and B5 at room temperature in a Kenwood Chef mechanical kneader equipped with a stirrer of flexible anchor type, in the proportions indicated below in Table 2.

(53) TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 2 Weight % Weight % Formulations Phase A3 Phase B5 Formulation 5 75.00 25.00 Formulation 6 58.00 42.00 Formulation 7 40.00 60.00

(54) Compositions 5 to 7 have properties of smoothing the microrelief via optical effects.

(55) 4) Characterization of the Optical Properties

(56) The optical properties of phases A3 and B5 and of formulations 5, 6 and 7 were characterized using the haze measurement (veil or mask effect) with a commercial Hazemeter machine.

(57) The measurements were taken according to the following protocol: on a transparent plastic film (Byk), a layer with a wet thickness of 30 m of the composition whose haze it is desired to evaluate is spread, using an automatic spreader. It is left to dry for 24 hours in an oven at 30 C., and the haze index is then measured using a Byk Gardner brand Haze Gard machine.

(58) The values obtained for phases A3 and B5 are as follows:

(59) TABLE-US-00011 Phases Measured haze Phase A3 46 Phase B5 93

(60) The haze values measured for formulations 5, 6 and 7 are given in the following table, along with the theoretical values calculated on the basis of the ratios of phases A3 and B5 (for example, the theoretical haze for formulation 5 is calculated in the following manner: 0.7546+0.2593).

(61) TABLE-US-00012 Formulations Measured haze Theoretical haze Formulation 7 86 74.2 Formulation 6 83 65.8 Formulation 5 71 57

(62) Irrespective of the composition, the measured haze value is consistently greater than the theoretical value predicted by the ratio of the phases in the sample.

(63) Consequently, the compositions according to the invention show proof of a real synergistic effect.