ELASTIC YARN, KNITTED TEXTILE MATERIAL AND SOCK MADE WITH THE ELASTIC YARN
20240167200 ยท 2024-05-23
Inventors
Cpc classification
D02G3/045
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/44
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/26
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
D02G3/32
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/26
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/04
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/44
TEXTILES; PAPER
Abstract
An elastic yarn is provided comprising at least one elastic filament and at least one further filament, which form a core of the yarn. As different regions of a garment, e.g. socks, need to have different properties in view of recovery, comfort and robustness, and as it is important that the respective articles are easy to produce in the elastic yarn, the elastic filament has a draft between 0.2 and 15.0, and the further filament has a draft of between 0.2 and 5.0.
Claims
1. An elastic yarn comprising at least one elastic filament and at least one further filament, which are twisted to form a core of the yarn, wherein the elastic filament has a draft between 0.2 and 15.0, and the further filament has a draft of between 0.2 and 5.0.
2. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elastic filament has a draft between 0.2 and 12.0.
3. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the further filament has a draft of between 1 and 1.3.
4. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the twist of the core is between 300 and 1100.
5. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the twist of the core is between 400 and 500.
6. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the further filament is an inelastic filament.
7. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the further filament is chosen from the group of polyether sulfones, Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), Partial Oriented Yarn (POY), polyamide, polyester.
8. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elastic filament is elastane.
9. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core is surrounded by a cover layer to form the yarn, wherein the cover layer comprises staple fibers.
10. The elastic yarn according to claim 9, wherein the staple fibers are chosen from the group of natural, recycled and/or synthetic fibers and/or fibers made of the following materials: cotton, viscose, polyester, wool, linen, alpaca, vicuna, angora, cashmere, kapok, manila, flax, hemp, ramie, hessian, sisal, coir, asbestos, glass, azlon, acetate, triacetate, acrylic, aramid, polyamide, olefin, or a mixture thereof.
11. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core made from twisted filaments comprises more than 3 filaments and less than 6 filaments.
12. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core comprises 2 or 3 elastic filaments each having a draft between 0.2 and 15.
13. The elastic yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core comprises 1 or 2 or 3 inelastic filaments each having a draft of a draft of between 0.2 and 5.
14. A knitted textile material, comprising the yarn according to claim 1, wherein the textile material comprises at least two different knitting pattern, wherein the same yarn material is used as only material setting up the different knitting pattern.
15. A sock which is made entirely from one single type of yarn, wherein the yarn is a yarn according to claim 1.
16. The sock according to claim 15, wherein the core comprises 1 or 2 or 3 inelastic filaments each having a draft of a draft of between 0.2 and 5.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0035] Further preferred embodiments will be apparent from the explanations in the subsequent section in combination with table 1.
[0036]
[0037]
[0038]
EXPLANATIONS CONCERNING TERMS
[0039] The following explanations shall not be interpret in a delimited way. This explanations help to interpret the used wording.
Knitting
[0040] Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile of fibers. Knitting creates multiple loops of yarn called stitches. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of loops. Each row progresses a newly created loop as pulled through one or more loops from the prior row, placed on the gaining needle and the loops from the prior row are then pulled off the other needle. Different types of yarns, needle sizes, and stitch types may be used to achieve knitted fabrics of different properties. The term circular knitting is used to mean a form of weft knitting in which the knitted needles are organized into a circular knitting bed. Generally, a cylinder rotates and interacts with a cam to move the needle through a support for knitting action. The yarn to be knitted is fed from a package to a carry plate that directs the yarn strength to the needles. The circular knit fabric emerges from the knitting needles in a tubular form from the center of the cylinder.
[0041]
Yarn
[0042] Yarn is understood as a long continuous length of interlocked fibers suitable for use in the production of textiles including crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidering, and rope making.
Twist
[0043] The twist is the spiral arrangement of the filaments around the axis of the yarn. The twist binds the filaments together and also contributes to the strength of the yarn. The amount of twist inserted in the yarn defines the strength and appearance of the yarn. The number of twists is referred to as turns per meter. That means a twist of 400 corresponds to 400 twist per meter (TPM). The twist correspond to the spiral arrangement of the filament constituting the core, such that the core is twisted. That means the core can have the aforementioned twist values. The core can be provided within a cladding layer of staple fibers as it is described below.
[0044] In practice, the twist of the yarn is commonly described using three main parameters a) the twist direction, b) the twist factor or twist multiplier and c) the twist level (turns/unit length). The aforementioned value between 300 and 1100 corresponds to the twist level.
[0045] The twist factor (in the following named as a value relating twist level to yarn count. The derivation shows that if two yarns have the same twist factor, they will have the same surface twist angle, regardless of count. Since surface twist angle is the main factor determining yarn character, then twist factor can be used to define the character of a yarn.
Draft
[0046] Drawing or so-called drafting in yarn manufacturing is a process of extenuating the loose assemblage of fibers called sliver by passing it through a series of rollers, thus straightening the individual fibers and making them more parallel. Each pair of rollers spins faster than the previous one. Drawing reduces a soft mass of fiber to a firm uniform strand of usable size. In the production of man-made fibers, drawing is a stretching process applied to fibers in the plastic state, increasing orientation and reducing size. In the present disclosure the strand obtained after drafting is named filament. The final yarn can contain one or more of such filaments as the core.
[0047] The numerical value of the draft is a dimensionless value. Yarn count
[0048] The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses whether the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile instituteCount is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn. There are various yarn counting ways used globally/historically, such as direct counting in Tex or Denier, when relating a fixed length of yarn to its resulting weight. Alternatively, the yarn count is defined indirectly by using fixed weight of fiber relating to the varying length. In the following two yarn count are used, one in Denier and one in Ne. The direct yarn count Denier [den] is defined as grams of fiber for the length of 9,000 meters, while the indirect yarn count Ne relates to the number of 840 yards of yarn in 1 pound of fiber.
Spirality
[0049] Spirality is a common problem in weft knitted fabric. It is the de-twisting tendency of yarn in the fabric. Spirality arises from twist stress in the constituent yarns of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. There are various causes of fabric spirality and they are divided into four main categories: yarn causes, knit causes, fiber causes, and finishing causes.
Experiments
[0050] In table 1 below, the experimental results with the inventive yarn is compared with conventional yarn which is used for knitting socks.
[0051] Lines 1 to 18 show different inventive examples. In lines 19 to 21, properties of well-known yarn are summarized.
[0052] The column yarn code, assigns a respective in-house-code to each yarn.
TABLE-US-00001 YARN INFO YARN ELASTANE TYPE ELASTANE FILAMENT TYPE YARN COUNT (CREORA, HUAFON, COUNT ELASTANE (PES, PBT, POY, CODE (NE) LYCRA, ETC.) (TD) DRAFT ETC) TRIALS 1 ECS578 20 HUAFON 40 2 FDY TYPED PES 2 ECS579 20 HUAFON 40 3 FDY TYPED PES 3 ECS580 20 HUAFON 40 2 FDY TYPED PES 4 ECS581 20 HUAFON 40 3 FDY TYPED PES 5 ECS575 16 HUAFON 40 3 FDY TYPED PES 6 ECS576 16 HUAFON 40 2.5 FDY TYPED PES 7 ECS577 16 HUAFON 40 2 FDY TYPED PES 8 ECS573 20 HUAFON 20 1.5 FDY TYPED PES 9 EPCSD8 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 TEXTURIZED PES 10 EPCSD9 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 TEXTURIZED PES 11 EPCSE1 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 FDY TYPED PES 12 EPCSE2 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 FDY TYPED PES 13 EPCSG3 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 TEXTURIZED PES 14 EPCSG4 15 HUAFON 40 2.5 TEXTURIZED PES 15 EPCSG5 15 GIPE 16 EPCSG6 15 GIPE 17 EPCSJ7 18 GIPE 18 EPCSJ8 20 GIPE 19 CORK70 20 CREORA 70 3.5 20 CRK101 20 LYCRA 105 3.6 21 CXK404 20 HUAFON 40 3.6 FABRIC YARN INFO (SOCK) INFO FILAMENT FILAMENT YARN YARN DIAMETER COUNT (TD) DRAFT ALFA TWIST (INCH) TRIALS 1 70 1.14 3.5 616 3.75 2 70 1.14 3.5 616 3.75 3 70 1.14 3.5 616 3.75 4 70 1.14 3.5 616 3.75 5 70 1.14 4 630 3.75 6 70 1.14 4 630 3.75 7 70 1.14 4 630 3.75 8 70 1.14 4 704 3.75 9 70 1.14 3 457 3.75 10 70 1.14 3.4 518 3.75 11 70 1.14 3 457 3.75 12 70 1.14 3.4 518 3.75 13 70 1.14 2.8 427 3.75 14 70 1.14 2.8 427 3.75 15 70 + 40 (2.5) 1.14 2.8 427 3.75 16 70 + 40 (2.5) 1.14 2.8 427 3.75 17 70 + 40 (2.5) 1.14 2.8 468 3.75 18 70 + 40 (2.5) 1.14 2.8 493 3.75 19 4.3 757 3.75 20 4.3 757 3.75 21 4.3 757 3.75
[0053] The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses whether the yarn is thick or thin. Two yarn counts are used in the table, one in Denier and one in Ne. The direct yarn count Denier [den] is defined as grams of fiber for the length of 9,000 meters, while the indirect yarn count Ne relates to the number of 840 yards of yarn in 1 pound of fiber.
[0054] In the above table, the count is given in Denier (TD) for the columns elastane count and filament count, while it is given in Ne (Ne) for the column titled Yarn count.
[0055] The inventive yarns have yarn counts in Ne between 15 and 20. In particular, it is preferred that the yarn count is between 15 and 18 Ne (e.g. column with the header Yarn Count NE). The respective prior art yarns, which are used for comparison, have a yarn count of 20 Ne.
[0056] In the column titled elastane type, there is provided the information which type of elastane filament is used as elastic filament. In the examples 1 to 15 as elastane filament, so-called HIUAFON filament is used. HIUAFON is the supplier of the yarn. An example of this yarn may be the yarn sold under the trademark QIANXI.
[0057] The used elastane filaments may be filaments sold under the trademark (the term in brackets denotes the supplier): LYCRA (DuPont), SPANDEX (Monsanto), CREORA (Hyosung), and filaments from HUAFON which are in the following called HUAFON filaments, the material of the HAUAFON filaments may be sold under the trademark QIANXI.
[0058] The count (in Denier) of the elastic filament is given in the column titled elastane count. The inventive yarn uses an elastic filament having a count of 40 or respectively 20 (Example 8). In particular, a range of 10 to 60 is preferred. Further values are 30, 40, 50. Said values can be an upper or lower border in a preferred range of counts.
[0059] The respective prior art examples 21 and 22 are thicker and have a count between 70 and 105.
[0060] The elastane draft (e.g. column with the header elastane draft) in the example is between 1.5 and 3. It has been observed that the draft of the elastic filament is for an improved effect between 1 and 3 and preferably between 1.5 and 2.5.
[0061] Conversely thereto, for the prior art filaments, the draft of the elastic filament is higher, namely it is in the region of higher than 3.5.
[0062] As further filaments in the present disclosure there are used in examples 1 to 14, FDI typed PES or respective texturized PES.
[0063] In the examples 15 to 18, instead of using a single elastane filament and a single further filament, a so-called GIPE yarn is used. A GIPE yarn has a core of an elastane and a further filament, in particular a Polyether Sulfone filament. However, during the production of the GIPE both filaments come together by air twisting. The elastane filament of the GIPE has a count of 70 Denier while the respective further filament (here the PES filament) has a count of 40 Denier (see column filament count). The respective term in brackets in the column filament count denotes the draft of the respective elastane filament in the GIPE yarn. This means the elastane filament in the GIPE has a count of 70 Denier a draft of 2.5. The PES filament in the GIPE has a draft of 1.4 (see column filament draft).
[0064] Thus, in all inventive examples the further filament, which is in this case an inelastic filament, has a filament draft of 1.14. In accordance with the present disclosure, the further filament has a draft of between 1 and 2, and preferably between 1.1 and 1.4.
[0065] The so-called alfa of the yarn denotes the respective twist factor. This twist factor is for the inventive yarns between 2.8 and 3.5. Further preferred values are 3.0; 3.2. These values can be used independently as upper or lower limits.
[0066] The conventional yarns (Examples 21 to 23) have an alfa of 4.3.
[0067] The column twists shows the yarn twists which are compared with the twists of the prior known yarns (Examples 19 to 21). The core of the inventive yarn has in the examples a twist between 400 to 700 twist per meter. Conversely thereto, the respective conventional yarn has a twist of 757. Thus, the twist of the inventive yarn is lower as in the conventional yarn. Thus, when the inventive yarn is used in the production of a knitted textile material the spirality of the material is reduced.
[0068] The twisted filaments, which form the core, can have a twist between 300 and 1100. Further limits can be 400, 450, 500, 550, 650, 700, 800, 900. Each of the respective values can be used as lower and upper limit in the range of twists.
[0069] In the last column of the above table, information is contained concerning the diameter of the respective manufactured socks in inches.
[0070] The aforementioned table shows that when an elastic yarn, having an elastic filament with a draft between 1.0 and 3.0 and a further filament with a draft of between 1.0 and 2.0 is used, the respective properties of the yarn can be improved. In particular, socks can be manufactured made of one single yarn type, wherein the different zones of the socks have different knitting patterns. Alternatively, there can also be made socks which comprises the inventive yarn, wherein one or more further yarns are also used for the same sock (e.g. in different zones).
[0071] Although the Examples in the table show a delimited draft range, the plurality of further Experiments which were made by the Applicant show that for the disclosure it is enough that a draft of the elastic filament is between 0.2 and 15.0, and that further additionally the further filament has a draft of between 0.2 and 5.0. Also in this broader range of values, the improved properties of the yarn and the final garment in terms of recovery, comfort and robustness can be obtained.
[0072] According to a further development, the elastic filament can have a draft between 0.2 and 12, and in particular between 1.0 and 3.0. Further upper and/or lower draft limits of the elastic filament are 0.8, 1.0, 1.5, 2.5, 4.0, 6.5, 8.5, 9.0. Additionally or alternatively, the further filament can have a draft between 1 and 1.3. Further upper and/or lower draft limits of the further filament are 1.5, 2.5, 4.0.
[0073] The inventive draft values are very different from the known draft values from the prior art used in socks on the market.
[0074] In particular, the combination of the (compared with the conventional yarn) lower twist with the lower draft provides further improved properties.
[0075] Although the table above only shows a yarn having one single elastic filament and one single inelastic filament, also yarns can be used with cores with two or three elastic filaments and/or cores which have additionally one or two or three inelastic filaments.
[0076] Commonly, the respective twisted core of filaments is covered by a cover layer of staple fibers. The staple fibers may comprise at least one or a mixture of fibers from the group of: natural, recycled and/or synthetic fibers and/or fibers made of the following materials: cotton, viscose, polyester, wool, linen, alpaca, vicuna, angora, cashmere, kapok, manila, flax, hemp, ramie, hessian, sisal, coir, asbestos, glass, azlon, acetate, triacetate, acrylic, aramid, polyamide, olefin. The respective fibers made of the aforementioned material may be used as a single material fiber mixture or a composition of any one of the aforementioned different material fibers in one of different lengths. Due to this cover layer, the yarn feels comfortable while it is combined with elastic properties.
[0077] The respective described yarn can be used for the production of knitted fabric, in particular machine knitted fabrics, wherein these fabrics have different zones of different knitting patterns. The respective properties in these areas can be changed by the different knitting patterns and by use of the present inventive yarn.
[0078] It has in particular been shown that socks only consisting of the inventive yarn can be made which are improved in view of stretch recovery and comfort.