Combination of active agents comprising at least one essential oil, one cyclodextrin and one liquid fatty substance and composition comprising it

Abstract

The present invention relates to a combination of active agents comprising at least one essential oil, at least one cyclodextrin and at least one liquid fatty substance, the cyclodextrin/essential oil weight ratio ranging from 5 to 12, and to its process of preparation. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, such a combination of active agents, and to its process of preparation.

Claims

1. Combination of active agents consisting of at least one essential oil, at least one cyclodextrin and at least one liquid fatty substance, wherein: the cyclodextrin/essential oil weight ratio ranges from 5 to 12; the cyclodextrin is present in said combination in a content ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, with respect to a total weight of the combination; the liquid fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, liquid fatty ethers, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; the liquid fatty substance is present in the combination in a content ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination; and the essential oil is present in the combination in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination, and wherein said combination is in a form of a paste.

2. Combination of active agents according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil is selected from the group consisting of geranium essential oil, citronella essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, Greek oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, rosemary essential oil, winter savory essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, green or red mandarin essential oil, clove essential oil, cinnamon essential oil and their mixtures.

3. Combination of active agents according to claim 1 wherein the essential oil is selected from the group consisting of geranium essential oil, sweet orange essential oil and Greek oregano essential oil.

4. Combination according to claim 1, wherein the cyclodextrin is selected from the group consisting of -cyclodextrin, -cyclodextrin, and -cyclodextrin.

5. Combination according to claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of octyldodecanol, squalane, jojoba vegetable oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, dicaprylyl ether, a mixture of n-undecane (C.sub.11) and n-tridecane (C.sub.13), and their mixtures.

6. Combination according to claim 1, wherein the cyclodextrin and the essential oil are in a cyclodextrin/essential oil weight ratio of between 8 and 12.

7. Combination according to claim 1, wherein the cyclodextrin is present in said combination in a content ranging from 50% to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination.

8. Combination according to claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty substance is present in the combination in a content ranging from 20% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination.

9. Process for the preparation of a combination of active agents as defined in claim 1, comprising the stages of: mixing the essential oil with the liquid fatty substance, and adding the cyclodextrin, then mixing.

10. Combination of active agents capable of being obtained according to a process consisting of the steps of: mixing at least one essential oil with at least one liquid fatty substance, and adding at least one cyclodextrin, wherein a cyclodextrin/essential oil weight ratio ranges from 5 to 12, then mixing, wherein: the cyclodextrin is present in said combination in a content ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, with respect to a total weight of the combination; the liquid fatty substance is selected from the group consisting of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, liquid fatty ethers, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; the liquid fatty substance is present in the combination in a content ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination; and the essential oil is present in the combination in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the combination, and wherein said combination is in a form of a paste.

11. Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination as defined in claim 1.

12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the essential oil is present in a content of between 0.00001% and 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the essential oil is present in a content of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the cyclodextrin is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the cyclodextrin is present in a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the liquid fatty substance is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the liquid fatty substance is present in a content of between 0.5% and 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to claim 11, wherein it is provided in the form of an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solution which is optionally gelled, of a lotion, which is optionally a two-phase lotion, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous gel, of a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules being polymer particles or ionic and/or non-ionic lipid vesicles, or alternatively in the form of a powder, of a serum, of an oil, of a paste or of a soft stick.

19. Composition according to claim 11, wherein it furthermore comprises at least one additional active agent selected from the group consisting of surfactants, moisturizing agents, anti-wrinkle or anti-ageing agents, UV screening agents, desquamating agents, antioxidants, agents which stimulate the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules, dermo-decontracting agents, depigmenting agents, deodorant agents, fragrances and their mixtures.

20. Process for the preparation of a composition as defined in claim 11, comprising the preparation of a combination of active agents according to the following stages: mixing the essential oil with the liquid fatty substance, adding the cyclodextrin, then mixing, and introducing this combination of active agents into a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

21. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the essential oil is selected from the group consisting of geranium essential oil, citronella essential oil, cedar essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, Greek oregano essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, lemon catnip essential oil, rosemary essential oil, winter savory essential oil, thyme essential oil, lemon balm essential oil, lemon essential oil, eucalyptus essential oil, green or red mandarin essential oil, clove essential oil, cinnamon essential oil and their mixtures.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Process for Producing a Combination of Active Agents According to the Invention

(1) 7 g of geranium essential oil (HE Geranium Egypte Bio, Elixens) are mixed with 20 g of octyldodecanol (Eutanol G, Cognis (BASF)). This premix is poured directly onto 73 g of -cyclodextrin (Cavamax W7 Pharma, Wacker).

(2) Slow homogenization is carried out in order to intimately mix all the ingredients.

(3) The combination of active agents thus obtained can subsequently be introduced at the end of manufacture into any cosmetic composition, at an ambient temperature.

Example 2

Comparative Tests on the Olfactory and Cosmetic Outcomes

(4) Composition 3 comprises a combination of active agents according to the invention prepared, mutatis mutandis, according to the protocol of Example 1.

(5) TABLE-US-00001 Composition 3 Comparative Comparative In accordance Composition 1 Composition 2 with the invention (% by weight, (% by weight, (% by weight, with respect to with respect to with respect to the total weight the total weight the total weight Compounds of the composition) of the composition) of the composition) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben Phenonip, Clariant Octyldodecanol 1.8 Eutanol G, Cognis (BASF) Geranium essential oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 HE Geranium Egypte Bio, Elixens Xanthan gum Keltrol 1 1 1 CG-T, CP Kelco Cyclodextrin 5.4 5.4 Cavamax W7 Pharma, Wacker Polysorbate 20 1 1 1 Tween 20-LQ-(WL), Croda Water 96.9 91.5 89.7 Olfactory outcome Intensity+++ Unpleasant Intensity+; odour More pleasant, more floral, rounder odour

(6) The olfactory and cosmetic outcomes of the 3 cosmetic compositions indicated above were compared.

(7) Comparative composition 1, comprising geranium essential oil, in the absence of cyclodextrin, or of one of its derivatives, and of a liquid fatty substance, is the reference composition with which the outcomes of the 2 other compositions will be compared.

(8) As indicated above in the present patent application, comparative composition 2, which comprises geranium essential oil and cyclodextrin but no liquid fatty substance according to the invention, makes it possible to significantly reduce the olfactory outcome in comparison with that of comparative composition 1; however, comparative composition 2 exhibits an unpleasant odour.

(9) This decrease in the volatility of the geranium essential oil is, however, accompanied by a strong deterioration in the cosmetic outcome of comparative composition 2, in comparison with that of composition 1.

(10) Composition 3 in accordance with the invention consequently comprises geranium essential oil, cyclodextrin and octyldodecanol.

(11) In addition to a significant reduction in the olfactory outcome of composition 3 in comparison with that of comparative composition 1, the cosmetic outcome of this composition is also better than that of comparative composition 2, which does not comprise octyldodecanol. Composition 3 in accordance with the invention also exhibits a more pleasant odour than compositions 1 and 2.

(12) Furthermore, composition 3 in accordance with the invention exhibits satisfactory cosmetic properties in terms of slip on application, of speed of penetration and of skin finish, that is to say that the result obtained is neither tacky nor greasy nor rough.

Example 3a

Tests on the Olfactory and Cosmetic Outcomes of Compositions in Accordance with the Invention

(13) Compositions 4 and 5 comprise a combination of active agents according to the invention prepared, mutatis mutandis, according to the protocol of Example 1.

(14) TABLE-US-00002 Composition 4 Composition 5 in accordance in accordance with the invention with the invention (% by weight, (% by weight, with respect to with respect to the total weight the total weight Compounds of the composition) of the composition) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben Phenonip, Clariant Octyldodecanol 1.8 Eutanol G, Cognis (BASF) Squalane 1.8 Pripure 3759, Croda Geranium essential oil 0.6 0.6 HE Geranium Egypte Bio, Elixens Xanthan gum 1 1 Keltrol CG-T, CP Kelco Cyclodextrin 5.4 5.4 Cavamax W7 Pharma, Wacker Polysorbate 20 1 1 Tween 20-LQ-(WL), Croda Water 89.7 89.7

(15) These two compositions in accordance with the invention exhibit satisfactory cosmetic properties in terms of slip on application, of speed of penetration and of skin finish, that is to say that the result obtained is neither tacky nor greasy nor rough.

(16) In addition, they have a pleasant odour.

Example 3b

Tests on the Olfactory and Cosmetic Outcomes of Compositions in Accordance with the Invention

(17) Compositions 6 and 7 comprise a combination of active agents according to the invention prepared, mutatis mutandis, according to the protocol of Example 1.

(18) TABLE-US-00003 Composition 6 Composition 7 in accordance in accordance with the invention with the invention (% by weight, (% by weight, with respect to with respect to the total weight the total weight Compounds of the composition) of the composition) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben Phenonip, Clariant Jojoba vegetable oil 1.8 Simmondsia Chinensis Oil Earth Oil Squalane 1.8 Pripure 3759, Croda Sweet orange essential oil 0.6 0.6 Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil Elixens Xanthan gum 1 1 Keltrol CG-T, CP Kelco Cyclodextrin 5.4 5.4 Cavamax W7 Pharma, Wacker Polysorbate 20 1 1 Tween 20-LQ-(WL), Croda Water 89.7 89.7

(19) These two compositions in accordance with the invention exhibit satisfactory cosmetic properties in terms of slip on application, of speed of penetration and of skin finish, that is to say that the result obtained is neither tacky nor greasy nor rough.

(20) In addition, they have a pleasant odour.

Example 3c

Tests on the Olfactory and Cosmetic Outcomes of Compositions in Accordance with the Invention

(21) Compositions 8 to 11 comprise a combination of active agents according to the invention prepared, mutatis mutandis, according to the protocol of Example 1.

(22) TABLE-US-00004 Composition 8 Composition 9 Composition 10 Composition 11 in accordance in accordance in accordance in accordance with the invention with the invention with the invention with the invention (% by weight, (% by weight, (% by weight, (% by weight, with respect to with respect with respect to with respect to the total weight the total weight the total weight the total weight Compounds of the composition) of the composition) of the composition) of the composition) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben Phenonip, Clariant Jojoba vegetable oil 1.8 Simmondsia Chinensis Oil Earth Oil Octyldodecanol 1.8 Eutanol G, Cognis (BASF) Caprylic/capric acid 1.8 triglycerides Myritol 318 Cognis (BASF) Squalane - 1.8 Pripure 3759, Croda Greek oregano 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 essential oil Origanum Heracleoticum Flower Oil Elixens Xanthan gum 1 1 1 1 Keltrol CG-T, CP Kelco Cyclodextrin 5.4 5.4 5.4 5.4 Cavamax W7 Pharma, Wacker Polysorbate 20 1 1 1 1 Tween 20-LQ-(WL), Croda Water 89.7 89.7 89.7 89.7

(23) These four compositions in accordance with the invention exhibit satisfactory cosmetic properties in terms of slip on application, of speed of penetration and of skin finish, that is to say that the result obtained is neither tacky nor greasy nor rough.

(24) In addition, they have a pleasant odour.

Example 3d

Tests on the Olfactory and Cosmetic Outcomes of Compositions in Accordance with the Invention

(25) Compositions 12 and 13 comprise a combination of active agents according to the invention prepared, mutatis mutandis, according to the protocol of Example 1.

(26) TABLE-US-00005 Composition 12 Composition 13 in accordance in accordance with the invention with the invention (% by weight, (% by weight, with respect to with respect to the total weight the total weight Compounds of the composition) of the composition) Octyldodecanol 0.3 3 Isofol 20, Sasol Sunflower seed oil 2 2 Refined Sunflower Oil, Welch Holme & Clark Petrolatum 2 2 White Fonoline Sonneborn Cera alba 1 1 White Beeswax SP453P Strahl & Pitsch Shea butter 3 3 Lipex 102 AarhusKarlshamn Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 Lanette 16 Cognis (BASF) Myristyl myristate 2 2 Tegosoft MM Evonik Goldschmidt Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 Lanette 18 Cognis (BASF) Geranium essential oil 0.1 1 Pelargonium graveolens flower oil HE Geranium Egypte Bio Elixens Acrylamide/sodium acryloyl- 0.4 0.4 dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80 Simulgel 600 Seppic Cyclodextrin 0.9 9 Cavamax W7 Pharma Wacker Dimethicone 10 10 Belsil DM 10 Wacker Glycerol 10 10 Glycerine 4833 Oleon Propylene glycol 4 4 Propylene glycol USP/EP Dow Chemical Stearic acid and 3 3 palmitic acid Palmera B1802CG KLK OLEO Glyceryl stearate 2 2 (and) PEG-100 stearate Simulsol 165 Seppic Preservatives, pH q.s. q.s. agents, fragrance Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100

(27) These two compositions in accordance with the invention exhibit satisfactory cosmetic properties in terms of slip on application, of speed of penetration and of skin finish, that is to say that the result obtained is neither tacky nor greasy nor rough.

(28) In addition, they have a pleasant odour.

Example 4

Test on the Axillary Olfactory Outcome of a Composition in Accordance with the Invention

(29) The present randomized test is carried out on 20 individuals aged from 18 to 65 years. These people have: moderately strong axillary odours, i.e. having an intensity greater than or equal to 58 on a scale from 1 (imperceptible) to 9 (extremely strong); a difference in intensity between the 2 armpits of less than or equal to 1; and having used a standardized shower gel during the 7 days preceding the test, without application of any other product (cleanser, deodorant, antiperspirant or any other scented product).

(30) After wiping the treated armpit, the test compositions described below were applied thereto in a proportion of 0.4 g+/0.5 g.

(31) The odour is subsequently evaluated olfactorily by several people, at different times, in order to evaluate:

(32) (i) the intensity of the axillary odour (on a scale ranging from 1=none to 9=extremely strong); and

(33) (ii) the hedonic value of the axillary odour (on a scale ranging from 1=extremely unpleasant to 9=extremely pleasant). The grades obtained are used in order to obtain a mean.

(34) The values shown in the Table below for the intensity and the hedonic value correspond to a percentage difference between the mean of the grades obtained before application of the test composition and the mean obtained after application at the given times.

(35) These evaluations took place 8 h, 24 h and 48 h after application of one of the compositions described below.

(36) Thus, a negative percentage for the intensity indicates a decrease in the intensity of the odour at the treated armpit, in comparison with before the application of the composition. A negative percentage for the hedonic value indicates an odour which has become less pleasant at the treated armpit after application of the composition.

(37) Conversely, a positive percentage for the intensity indicates an increase in the intensity of the odour at the treated armpit, in comparison with before the application of the composition. A positive percentage for the hedonic value indicates an odour which has become more pleasant at the treated armpit after application of the composition.

(38) The test compositions comprise the following mixture of essential oils:

(39) TABLE-US-00006 % by weight, with respect to the total weight Mixture of essential oils of the mixture Organic lemon peel essential oil 7.14 (Citrus medica limonum peel oil) Lemon Zest Oil Organic - Elixens Organic eucalyptus radiata essential oil 27.62 (Eucalyptus radiata oil) Organic clove essential oil 2.04 (Eugenia caryophyllus flower oil) Organic lemongrass essential oil 10.2 (Cymbopogon flexuosus oil) Organic green mandarin essential oil 13.26 (Citrus nobilis peel oil) Green mandarin oil Organic - Elixens Organic rosemary cineole essential oil 10.2 (Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil) Organic winter savory essential oil 2.04 (Satureja montana oil) Organic thyme chemotype thymol essential oil 27.5 (Thymus vulgaris oil)

(40) The compositions employed and the results obtained are as follows:

(41) TABLE-US-00007 Composition 14 Composition 15 not in accordance in accordance with the invention with the invention Type O/W emulsion O/W emulsion Composition 20% of Cetiol UT 20% of Cetiol UT (% by weight, with 0.5% of the 0.5% of the premixed respect to the total essential oil essential oil weight of the mixture shown above mixture shown above composition) 4.5% of cyclodextrin 4% of decyl glucoside 4% of decyl glucoside Results at 8 h - +1% NS 11% S Intensity Results at 8 h - 0% NS +10% S Hedonic value Results at 24 h - +4% NS 8% S Intensity Results at 24 h - 3% NS +6% S Hedonic value Results at 48 h - +3% NS 7% S Intensity Results at 48 h - 2% NS +8% S Hedonic value NS = not significant S = significant

(42) It is clearly apparent, on reading the above data, that a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reduce the intensity of the axillary odour while rendering this odour more pleasant.