Dispersions comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

Abstract

A dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of gel, in which the drops comprise a fatty phase containing at least one gelling agent, and in which the fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90%, and preferably more than 95%, fatty acids having at least 18 carbon atoms and preferably at least 20 carbon atoms.

Claims

1. A dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising drops and a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the drops comprise a fatty phase containing at least one gelling agent, and wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90% of fatty acids having at least 20 carbon atoms, wherein oil H1 comprises more than 90% of fatty acids selected from the group consisting of: eicosenoic acid, docosanoic acid, docosadienoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

2. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein at least 60% of the drops have a mean diameter larger than or equal to 100 μm.

3. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein the drops having a diameter larger than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60% of the total volume of the dispersed phase.

4. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein the drops comprise a shell.

5. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 50% by weight of oil(s) H1 relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.

6. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein oil H1 is selected from among vegetable oils.

7. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of: organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; fats solid at ambient temperature and pressure, and mixtures thereof.

8. The dispersion of claim 1, comprising from 0.5% to 99% by weight of gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

9. The dispersion of claim 1, characterized in that it does not comprise a surfactant.

10. A composition comprising a dispersion of claim 1, in association with a physiologically acceptable medium.

11. The dispersion of claim 1, wherein the drops comprise a shell, said shell comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

12. The dispersion of claim 11, wherein the cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. ##STR00010##

13. The dispersion of claim 11, wherein the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomer units including at least one carboxylic acid chemical function.

14. The dispersion of claim 11, wherein the cationic polymer has the following formula: ##STR00011## where: R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are each independently OH or CH.sub.3; R.sub.4 is a group —CH.sub.2— or group —X—NH— where X is a C3 or C4 divalent alkylene radical; x is an integer of between 10 and 5 000; y is an integer of between 2 and 1 000; and z is an integer of between 0 and 10.

15. The dispersion of claim 11, wherein the anionic polymer is selected from among carbomers and acrylates/C.sub.10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked copolymers.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 contains more than 95% of fatty acids having at least 20 carbon atoms.

17. A method for preparing a dispersion of claim 1, comprising the following steps: optionally, heating an oily fluid FI to a temperature of between 40° C. and 150° C.; contacting an aqueous fluid FE with the oily fluid FI; and forming drops of fatty phase composed of the oily fluid FI dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase composed of fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of fatty phase drops of the dispersion, wherein: the oily fluid FI comprises at least one gelling agent and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90% of fatty acids having at least 20 carbon atoms and optionally at least one cationic polymer, and the aqueous fluid FE at least comprises water and optionally at least one anionic polymer.

18. A non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin material, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material a dispersion of claim 1.

19. A method to (i) improve the transparency of a dispersion of claim 1 by reducing or preventing: the opacification phenomenon of the continuous aqueous phase, the leakage of material from the dispersed phase towards the continuous aqueous phase, the drop adhesion onto the walls of packaging, and/or the drop aggregation, and (ii) to maintain or improve the stability over time and the visual impact of said dispersion, said method involving the use of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil H1 containing more than 90% of fatty acids having at least 20 carbon atoms.

20. The method of claim 19, wherein the material comprises oil(s) and/or gelling agent(s).

21. A non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin material, comprising a step of applying to said keratin material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition of claim 10.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Unless otherwise stated, the dispersions described below result from a microfluidic method, in particular such as described above or in WO2017046305. The microfluidic system used is composed of two parts, a first part in which contacting under heat (between 75 and 90° C.) is carried out between IF (or FI) and OF (or FE) to form a dispersion, and a second part ensuring rapid cooling of the dispersion thus formed to accelerate gelling kinetics and thereby prevent post-formation risks of coalescence of the drops (cooling temperature: between 5 and 28° C.).

Example 1: Preparation of Dispersions of Macroscopic Drops with or without Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon Oil of the Invention

(2) In this example, dispersions of macroscopic drops were prepared of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions were as follows:

(3) TABLE-US-00002 1A 1B 1C 2A 2B 2C (comp.) (comp.) (inv.) (comp.) (comp.) (inv.) Fluid Name INCI % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w IF DUB ININ Isononyl QSP* (gelled Grade A isononanoate fattyphase) Argan oil Argania spinosa 0 18.00 0 0 18.00 0 kernel oil Meadowfoam Limnanthes alba 0 0 18.00 0 0 18.00 oil seed oil Rheopearl KL2 Dextrin 20.00 palmitate, Palmitic Acid, Aqua PHAT BLUE CI 61565 (and) 0.00092 DC6204 CI 60725 CAS-3131 Amodimethicone 0 0.15 PILOT Total 100 OF Reverse Aqua Q.S. (continuous osmosis water aqueous Microcare PE Phenoxyethanol, 0.89 phase) aqua Microcare Pentylene 2.22 emollient PTG glycol, aqua Glycerine Glycerin, aqua 11.11 codex Edeta BD Disodium EDTA 0.044 Carbopol ETD Carbomer 0.33 2050 polymer Sodium Sodium 0.013 hydroxide hydroxide pellets PRS codex Total 100 BF Reverse Aqua Q.S. (base) osmosis water Sodium Sodium 0.35 hydroxide hydroxide pellets PRS codex Total 100 *Q.S.: as much as is sufficient

(4) Tests 2A-2C differed from tests 1A-1C through the presence of amodimethicone in the gelled fatty phase. This led to the formation of a membrane at the water-oil interface resulting from an interfacial complex coacervation reaction between amodimethicone and the carbomer.

(5) Preparation Protocol:

(6) For OF:

(7) Phenoxyethanol, Pentyleneglycol and EDTA are incorporated in the water. The mixture is stirred for 5 min.

(8) The carbomer is dispersed in the preceding mixture under stirring for 30 minutes using an impeller of disperser blade type.

(9) Glycerine is then added and the mixture left under stirring for 10 min.

(10) Sodium hydroxide is added and the solution is mixed for 10 minutes.

(11) For IF:

(12) Amodimethicone, if used (i.e. tests 2A to 2C), is added to isononyl isononanoate and stirred with a magnetic stir bar for 5 min. PHAT BLUE DC6204 colouring agent is added under stirring.

(13) Under stirring, argan oil and Meadowfoam oil are added.

(14) The mixture is heated to 80° C., after which Rheopearl KL2 is added under magnetic stirring until a homogeneous solution is obtained.

(15) The heated IF solution is placed in a syringe connected to heating to maintain the heat of IF (80° C.). To reduce heat losses, the microfluidic device is positioned directly at the outlet of the syringe.

(16) For BF: sodium hydroxide and water are mixed with a magnetic stir bar for 5 min.

(17) In these tests, the following flow rates were used:

(18) TABLE-US-00003 OF 150 mL/hr IF 20.35 mL/hr BF 16.667 mL/hr

(19) The dispersions obtained comprised drops having a mean diameter larger than 100 μm, in particular larger than 300 μm.

(20) Parameters Analysed:

(21) After production, each test sample of Example 1 was packaged in three 30 ml polypropylene containers filled to one half. After 1 day at ambient temperature, each test sample was subjected to one of the three following transport tests (one container per test), namely: roller test (i.e. horizontal circular movement): reference Wheaton, for 1 hour; vibrating table (i.e. vertical circular movement): reference Heidolph Unimax 1010, for 1 hour; and 3D mixer (i.e. random movements): for 6 minutes.

(22) On completion of these 3 tests, the parameters of adhesion, aggregation and turbidity (or opacification) of the continuous aqueous phase were analysed (visual observation).

(23) TABLE-US-00004 ADHESION AGGREGATION TURBIDITY Attachment of drops Drops aggregating Transfer of the fatty phase to the wall of together (aggregation into the continuous aqueous packaging is likely to promote phase coalescence)

(24) Score Criteria:

(25) TABLE-US-00005 SCORE CRITERIA 0 1 2 3 ADHESION No adhesion Slight adhesion Moderate adhesion Strong adhesion AGGREGATION No aggregation Slight aggregation Moderate aggregation Strong aggregation GEL TURBIDITY Transparent gel Slightly turbid gel Moderately turbid gel Turbid gel

(26) Results:

(27) TABLE-US-00006 1A 1B 1C 2A 2B 2C (comp.) (comp.) (invention) (comp.) (comp.) (invention) ADHESION 3 3 2 2 2 1 AGGREGATION 2 2 1 2 2 0 GEL TURBIDITY 2 2 0 1 1 0

(28) The above tests were reproduced by replacing, for tests 1c and 2C, Meadowfoam oil by jojoba oil (same % s). The results obtained were slightly lower than with Meadowfoam oil but nevertheless distinctly more satisfactory than with argan oil.

(29) Within the context of a dispersion formed of macroscopic drops of gelled fatty phase in a continuous aqueous phase, the use of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of the invention therefore efficiently reduces the phenomenon of opacification of the continuous aqueous phase but also reduces drop aggregation (and hence risks of coalescence) as well as adhesion of drops onto packaging walls.

(30) It is also observed that the presence of a membrane (i.e. 2A-2C) reinforces these advantages in terms of reducing the opacification phenomenon of the continuous aqueous phase, reducing drop adhesion onto packaging walls, and even reducing drop aggregation.

(31) This contributes towards maintaining the unique, distinguishing visual impact of said dispersions.

Example 2: Impact of the Content of Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon Oil in the Invention

(32) In this example, dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase were prepared dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions were the following:

(33) TABLE-US-00007 3A 3C 3D (comp.) (inv.) (inv.) Fluid Nom INCI % w/w % w/w % w/w IF DUB ININ Isononyl Q.S. (gelled Grade A isononanoate fatty Meadowfoam Limnanthes alba 0 18.00 30.00 phase) oil seed oil Rheopearl KL2 Dextrin palmitate, 15.00 Palmitic Acid, Aqua PHAT BLUE CI 61565 (and) 0.00092 DC6204 CI 60725 CAS-3131 Amodimethicone 0.15 PILOT Total 100 OF Reverse Aqua Q.S. (continuous osmosis water aqueous Microcare PE Phenoxyethanol, aqua 0.89 phase) Microcare Pentylene glycol, 2.22 emollient PTG aqua Glycerine Glycerin, aqua 15.00 codex Zemea Propanediol, aqua 4.80 propanediol Butylene Butylene glycol, 5.30 glycol 1.3 aqua Edeta BD Disodium EDTA 0.044 Carbopol ETD Carbomer 0.33 2050 polymer Sodium hydroxide Sodium hydroxide 0.013 pellets PRS codex Total 100 BF Reverse Aqua Q.S. (base) osmosis water Sodium hydroxide Sodium hydroxide 0.35 pellets PRS codex Total 100

(34) The preparation protocol, analysed parameters and score criteria were the same as those described in Example 1.

(35) The dispersions obtained comprise drops having a mean diameter larger than 100 μm, in particular larger than 300 μm.

(36) Results:

(37) TABLE-US-00008 3A 3C 3D (comparative) (invention) (invention) ADHESION 2 1 1 AGGREGATION 2 1 1 GEL TURBIDITY 1 0 0

(38) An increase in the content of Meadowfoam oil (i.e. 3C vs 3D) does not have any impact on the opacification phenomenon of the continuous aqueous phase, on drop aggregation (and hence risks of coalescence) or on drop adhesion to packaging walls.

(39) However, an increase in the content of gelling agent in the dispersed fatty phase (i.e. 2C vs 3C) allows a further reduction in drop aggregation and hence in risks of coalescence.