Emulsion comprising an anionic acrylic copolymer and a lipophilic polymer

11534386 · 2022-12-27

Assignee

Inventors

Cpc classification

International classification

Abstract

Emulsion comprising an anionic acrylic copolymer and a lipophilic polymer A subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling polymer chosen from anionic acrylic copolymers and at least one lipophilic polymer comprising at least hydroxyethyl acrylate units and acrylate units bearing a lipophilic group, wherein the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing a lipophilic group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1 and wherein the lipophilic polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol. The composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to obtain emulsions which are homogeneous (the emulsion is macroscopically smooth and has no grains, after storage in a pot for 24 hours at ambient temperature (25° C.)), which have a variable viscosity (very fluid to very thick), which are stable over time, and which have good sensory properties, in particular which are non-tacky, non-shiny and non-greasy on the skin.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling polymer chosen from anionic acrylic copolymers and at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formulae (A) and (B): ##STR00009## in which: R.sub.1, independently of one another, are chosen from alkyl or alkylene radicals; with at least 60% by weight of the R.sub.1 groups being behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R.sub.1 groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R.sub.1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total of units (A) and (B) is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; the at least one lipophilic polymer having a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol.

2. The composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic acrylic copolymers are chosen from: anionic acrylic copolymers derived from at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid or from at least one ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer.

3. The composition according to claim 2, in which each of the anionic acrylic copolymers derived from at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid or from at least one ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms comprises: a monomeric unit corresponding to formula (I) below: ##STR00010## in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, and a monomeric unit of formula (II) below: ##STR00011## in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, and R.sup.2 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

4. The composition according to claim 2, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from: (1) copolymers derived from the polymerization of: (i) (meth)acrylic acid and (ii) a monomer of formula (III) below:
CH.sub.2═CR′CH.sub.2OB.sub.nR  (III) in which R′ denotes H or CH.sub.3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy group (—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—O—), n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from an alkyl group, an arylalkyl group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a cycloalkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; (2) associative polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C.sub.10-C.sub.30)alkyl ester of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid; (3) acrylic terpolymers comprising: (a) from 19.5% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (b) from 20% to 80% by weight of a monomer chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl (meth)acrylates and (c) from 0.5% to 60% by weight of a non-ionic urethane macromonomer of formula (VI) below: ##STR00012## in which p ranges from 6 to 150 and R2 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals comprising from 18 to 26 carbon atoms; (4) copolymers of (a) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a polyoxyethylenated C12-C30 fatty alcohol and (c) an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alcohol; or (5) copolymers of (a) (meth)acrylic acid, (b) crosslinked C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, (c) polyethylene glycol C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl ether methacrylate containing 25 mol of ethylene oxide and (d) polyethylene glycol allyl ether containing 20 ethylene oxide units/polypropylene glycol containing 5 propylene oxide units.

5. The composition according to claim 4, in which the monomer of formula (III) is a monomer in which R′ denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C18) group.

6. The composition according to claim 5, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol allyl ether containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide.

7. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, from 2% to 50% by weight of monomer of formula (III), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer.

8. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from copolymers of (i) a monomer of formula (IV) below: ##STR00013## in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, and (ii) monomer of the following formula (V):
H.sub.2C═CR.sup.1—COOR.sup.3  (V) in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 or C.sub.2H.sub.5, R.sup.3 denotes a C.sub.10-C.sub.30.

9. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (V) as follows: H.sub.2C═CR.sup.1—COOR.sup.3 (V) in which R.sup.1 denotes H or CH.sub.3 and R.sup.3 denotes an alkyl group containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, (iii) and optionally a crosslinking agent, which is a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer.

10. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is constituted of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or is constituted of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer.

11. The composition according to claim 4, in which the α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid (a) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or crotonic acid.

12. The composition n according to claim 4, in which the monomer (b) for the acrylic terpolymers (3) is chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate or butyl (meth)acrylate.

13. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer chosen from the acrylic terpolymers (3) is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol.

14. The composition according to claim 4, in which the at least one anionic associative acrylic copolymer is chosen from: polymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and 20 OE polyoxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate crosslinked with pentaerythrityl allyl ether or trimethylolpropane allyl ether; crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and 25 OE polyoxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate; polymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and 25 OE polyoxyethylenated C12-C24 alkyl methacrylate; polymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl methacrylate, polyethylene glycol C16-C22 alkyl ether methacrylate containing 25 ethylene glycol units and ether of 2-(6,6-dimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-en-2-yl)ethyl methacrylate and polypropylene glycol containing 5 propylene glycol units/polyethylene glycol containing 25 ethylene glycol units; polyoxyethylenated (20 OE) terpolymer of acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate; or polyoxyethylenated (25 OE) terpolymer of acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl methacrylate.

15. The composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one hydrophilic gelling polymer is chosen from crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

16. The composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic acrylic copolymers have a weight-average molecular weight of less than 500,000.

17. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of the anionic acrylic copolymers is from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the at least one lipophilic polymer, R.sub.1 is constituted of alkyl radicals.

19. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the at least one lipophilic polymer, at least 70% by weight of the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals.

20. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the at least one lipophilic polymer, all the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals.

21. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the at least one lipophilic polymer, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R.sub.1 group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1.

22. The composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one lipophilic polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mol.

23. The composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one lipophilic polymer has a melting point ranging from 60° C. to 69° C.

24. The composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one lipophilic polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or removing makeup from and/or cleansing keratin materials which comprises applying the composition according to claim 1 to the keratin materials.

26. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, in which the composition of claim 1 is applied to the keratin material.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Example of Lipophilic Polymer Synthesis

(2) Determination of the Molecular Weight by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC):

(3) The sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54° C. for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes in order to assist with the dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be totally dissolved in the solvent.

(4) The sample prepared was analysed using two polypore 300×7.5 mm columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

(5) Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 Daltons were used for the calibration.

(6) The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights was carried out by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

(7) Determination of the Melting Point by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (or DSC):

(8) This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is carried out according to the standard ASTM E 9672.

(9) Behenyl Acrylate/2-hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer (Polymer 1):

(10) In a 4-necked flask equipped with side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2′-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel)) were added, over the course of 60 minutes at 80° C., to 40 g of isopropanol, with stirring, after having removed the oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen flush for 20 minutes.

(11) The mixture was stirred at 80° C. for 3 hours. The solvent was then eliminated by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110° C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90° C. and a jet of demineralized water was added, then the mixture was stirred. The water was eliminated by vacuum distillation.

(12) Molecular weight: Mn=7300 g/mol, Mw=21000, Mw/Mn=2.8

(13) Melting point: 65° C.

Formulation Examples

(14) For each composition, the viscosity was measured and/or the stability over time was studied at various temperatures and/or the sensory aspect was evaluated during and after its application to the skin.

(15) Viscosity Measurement

(16) The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25° C., using a Rheomat RM180® viscometer equipped with a No. 3 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s.sup.−1.

(17) Study of the Stability Over Time at Various Temperatures

(18) The stability is studied over time by observing the change in the composition with regard to its macroscopic appearance, its microscopic appearance, and the change in viscosity and pH values, at various temperatures such as ambient temperature (AT), 4° C. or 45° C.

(19) Protocol for Evaluating the Tack, the Shininess and the Greasiness

(20) The tacky, shiny and greasy effects of the compositions are evaluated by a panel of sensory experts made up of 5 to 20 individuals according to the examples. Each composition is applied to the forearm at the dose of 2 mg/cm.sup.2. The product was spread by circular movements until it had penetrated (approximately 30 seconds). The tacky, shiny and greasy effects are evaluated after 2 minutes of drying, by applying the back of the hand to the treated area, according to a scale ranging from 1 to 15 in which 1 constitutes a reference that is not very tacky or not very shiny or not very greasy, and 15 constitutes a reference that is very tacky or very shiny or very greasy.

Comparative Example 1

(21) Emulsions 1 to 9 of oil-in-water type as described below were prepared.

(22) TABLE-US-00001 1 2 3 4 5 Composition invention invention invention invention invention Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Disodium 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid dihydrate Polymer 1 as previously 3 SM 3 SM 3 SM 3 SM 3 SM synthesized   (3 AM)   (3 AM)   (3 AM)   (3 AM)   (3 AM) Ethoxylated methacrylic 2.6 SM — — — — acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl- (0.6 AM) meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate alcohol terpolymer (Viscophobe DB 1000 from Amerchol) Oxyethylenated methacrylic — 3 SM — — — acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl (0.6 AM) methacrylate terpolymer (25 OE) as an aqueous emulsion (Aculyn 28 Polymer ® - Rohm and Haas) Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl — — 0.7 SM — — Acrylate Crosspolymer (0.6 AM) (Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer from Lubrizol) Acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate — — — 0.6 SM — copolymer polymerized in an (0.6 AM) ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture (Pemulen TR-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) Crosslinked acrylic acid/alkyl — — — — 0.6 SM acrylate polymer (0.6 AM) (Pemulen TR-2 Polymer from Lubrizol) Glycerol 8 8 8 8 8 Isononyl isononanoate 20 20 20 20 20 1,2-Octanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(23) TABLE-US-00002 6 7 Composition (comparative) (comparative) Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic 0.1 0.1 acid dihydrate Polymer 1 as previously synthesized 3 SM 3 SM   (3 AM)   (3 AM) Polyurethane-62 (and) trideceth-6 0.7 SM — (Avalure Flex 6 Polymer from Lubrizol) (0.6 AM) Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in — 0.6 SM the ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture (0.6 AM) (Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol) Glycerol 8 8 Isononyl isononanoate 20 20 1,2-Octanediol 0.5 0.5 Triethanolamine — 0.5 Water qs 100 qs 100

(24) In the tables above, SM signifies starting material and AM signifies active material.

(25) Compositions 1 to 7 were prepared according to the following procedure: Heat the fatty phase containing the oil and the lipophilic polymer at 70° C. until the polymer has completely melted and dissolved.

(26) In another container, disperse, in the aqueous phase, containing the water, the preservatives and the glycerol, and the chosen hydrophilic gelling polymer and neutralize it if required using the base, then heat said phase to 70° C.

(27) Incorporate, with rigourous stirring (rotor/stator type), the oily phase (at 70° C.) into the aqueous phase (at 70° C.) and cool the resulting emulsion to 25° C.

(28) The results obtained are shown in the table below.

(29) TABLE-US-00003 1 2 3 4 5 Composition (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) pH 5.8 5.9 5.5 5.5 5.6 at 24 h Viscosity 1.03 1.45 3.41 2.20 1.53 at 24 h in Pa .Math. s Macroscopic Smooth white Smooth white Smooth white Smooth white Smooth white appearance cream, cream, cream, cream, cream, at 24 h complies complies complies complies complies Microscopic Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion appearance at 24 h Change over No change, No change, No change, No change, No change, time neither neither neither neither neither macroscopic macroscopic macroscopic macroscopic macroscopic nor nor nor nor nor microscopic, microscopic, microscopic, microscopic, microscopic, after 2 months after 2 months after 2 months after 2 months after 2 months at AT and at at AT and at at AT and at at AT and at at AT and at 45° C., pH and 45° C., pH and 45° C., pH and 45° C., pH and 45° C., pH and viscosity stable viscosity stable viscosity stable viscosity stable viscosity stable Sensory aspect Non-greasy Non-greasy Non-greasy Non-greasy Non-greasy non-tacky non-tacky non-tacky non-tacky non-tacky

(30) TABLE-US-00004 6 7 Composition (comparative) (comparative) pH at 24 h 4.6 Not measurable, no emulsion Viscosity at 24 h 0.13 Not measurable, no emulsion in Pa .Math. s Macroscopic appearance at 24 h Ultra-fluid, white, smooth No emulsion, large clumps Microscopic appearance at 24 h Emulsion No emulsion, large clumps Change over time Creaming after 1 week at AT No emulsion, large clumps Sensory aspect Not stable after one week, Not measurable, no emulsion therefore not of interest in the evaluation

(31) Compositions 1 to 5 comprising an anionic acrylic copolymer as hydrophilic gelling polymer (composition in accordance with the invention) are stable over time and have good sensory properties, in particular a non-tacky and non-greasy effect on the skin.

(32) Compositions 6 and 7 comprising a hydrophilic gelling polymer which is not an anionic acrylic copolymer (comparative composition) are either unstable over time or do not make it possible to obtain an emulsion. The sensory properties cannot be evaluated.

Comparative Example 2

(33) Emulsions 8 to 15 of oil-in-water type as described below were prepared.

(34) TABLE-US-00005 8 9 10 11 12 Composition invention invention invention comparative comparative Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Disodium 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid dihydrate Polymer 1 as previously 1 SM 2 SM 3 SM — 3 SM synthesized   (1 AM)   (2 AM)   (3 AM)   (3 AM) Lightly crosslinked acrylic 2 SM 2 SM 2 SM 2 SM — polymer in emulsion (0.6 AM) (0.6 AM) (0.6 AM) (0.6 AM) (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 polymer from Lubrizol) Glycerol 8 8 8 8 8 Isononyl isononanoate 20 20 20 20 20 1,2-Octanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 — Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(35) TABLE-US-00006 13 14 15 Composition (comparative) (comparative) (comparative) Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7 Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic 0.1 0.1 0.1 acid dihydrate Poly(stearyl acrylate) 1 SM 2 SM — (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from Evonik   (1 AM)   (2 AM) Materials Netherlands B.V.) Poly(behenyl acrylate) — — 3 SM (Intelimer IPA 13-6 from Evonik   (3 AM) Materials Netherlands B.V.) Lightly crosslinked acrylic 2 SM 2 SM 2 SM polymer in emulsion (Carbopol Aqua (0.6 AM) (0.6 AM) (0.6 AM) SF-1 polymer from Lubrizol) Polyurethane-62 (and) trideceth-6 — 0.7 SM — (Avalure Flex 6 Polymer from Lubrizol) (0.6 AM) Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in the — — 0.6 SM ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture (0.6 AM) (Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol) Glycerol 8 8 8 Isononyl isononanoate 20 20 20 1,2-Octanediol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(36) In the tables above, SM signifies starting material and AM signifies active material.

(37) Compositions 8 to 11 and 13 to 15 were prepared according to the following procedure: Heat the fatty phase containing the oil and the lipophilic polymer at 70° C. until the polymer has completely melted and dissolved.

(38) In another container, disperse, in the aqueous phase, containing the water, the preservatives and the glycerol, and also the hydrophilic gelling polymer and neutralize it using the base (triethanolamine), then heat said phase to 70° C.

(39) Incorporate, with rigourous stirring (rotor/stator type), the oily phase (at 70° C.) into the aqueous phase (at 70° C.) and cool the resulting emulsion to 25° C.

(40) Composition 12 will be prepared according to the same process, but without using hydrophilic gelling polymer and without neutralization (triethanolamine).

(41) Compositions 8 to 10 which comprise the combination of an anionic acrylic copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) and of a lipophilic polymer as claimed (Polymer 1) are in the form of fine emulsions and make it possible to obtain good sensory properties, in particular a non-tacky and non-greasy effect on the skin.

(42) Comparative composition 11 which comprises an anionic acrylic copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) alone is in the form of a fine emulsion but it has a greasy, oily feel when applied to the skin.

(43) With comparative composition 12 which comprises a lipophilic polymer as claimed (Polymer 1) alone, it is not possible to obtain an emulsion, and the sensory properties cannot be measured.

(44) Comparative compositions 13 and 14 which comprise the combination of an anionic acrylic copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) and of a lipophilic polymer other than those which are claimed (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from Evonik Materials Netherlands B.V.) are in the form of fine emulsions and make it possible to obtain sensory properties (tack, shininess, greasiness) which are not as good as the compositions in accordance with the invention.

(45) With comparative composition 15 which comprises the combination of an anionic acrylic copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) and of a lipophilic polymer other than those which are claimed (Intelimer IPA 13-6 from Evonik Materials Netherlands B.V.), it is not possible to obtain an emulsion, and the sensory properties cannot be measured.

Illustrative Example 3: Anti-Ageing Cream with No Screening

(46) Composition 16 as presented below was prepared.

(47) TABLE-US-00007 16 Phase Composition (invention) A1 Water 48.95 A1 Glycerol 8 A1 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 A1 Preservative(s) 0.5 A1 Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid dihydrate 0.1 A2 Lightly crosslinked acrylic polymer in emulsion 2 (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 polymer from Lubrizol A3 Water 3 A3 Triethanolamine 0.25 B Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 cSt) 5 (Belsil DM 5 plus from Wacker) B Hydrogenated isoparaffin (6-8 mol of isobutylene) 5 B Isononyl isononanoate 5 B Diisopropyl sebacate 5 B Refined palm oil 5 B Polymer 1 as previously synthesized 3 B Vitamin E 0.5 C Ethoxylated (25 EO) AMPS/stearyl methacrylate 0.6 copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), (Aristoflex HMS from Clariant) D Mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with 2 hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) E Methylsilanol/Silicate Cross polymer 3 (NLK-506 from Takemoto Oil&Fat) E Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane gum beads 2 coated with silsesquioxane resin (92/8) (KSP 100 from Shin-Etsu) F Fragrance(s) 0.6

(48) Procedure

(49) Composition 16 is prepared in the following manner:

(50) 1) Preparation and homogenization of phases A and B:

(51) Heat the aqueous phase A1 to 75° C. with magnetic stirring.

(52) Add phase A2 (Carbopol Aqua SF1 from Lubrizol) to the aqueous phase A1 using a deflocculating device.

(53) Neutralize the mixture A1+A2 by adding phase A3 using a deflocculating device.

(54) Reheat the aqueous phase A thus obtained, so as to maintain a temperature above 75° C. for the emulsion.

(55) Heat the oily phase B to 75° C. with magnetic stirring.

(56) 2) Emulsification:

(57) Pour the oily phase B into the aqueous phase A using an emulsifying device and homogenize for 10 minutes.

(58) 3) Pass through a Rayneri—deflocculating device and stop the heating.

(59) 4) Add phases C, D, E and F:

(60) Add phase C below 45° C. using a deflocculating device and allow to swell for 20 to 30 minutes.

(61) Cool to 25° C. with a water bath using a deflocculating device.

(62) Starting from 35° C., add phases D, E and F using a deflocculating device.

(63) Composition 16 thus obtained is a homogeneous, thick, white, fragranced cream which is smooth and shiny and which has a viscosity of 8 Pa.Math.s and a pH of 6.55. It is in the form of a fine and regular emulsion, with clear edges.

(64) Composition 16 is stable after two months at AT, 4° C. and 45° C. (macroscopic and microscopic appearances, viscosity, pH).

(65) The sensory results obtained, evaluated with a panel of 19 individuals, are presented in the table below.

(66) TABLE-US-00008 Composition 16 (invention) Tacky finish (Score by sensory expert panel, Tacky finish 0.5/15 out of 15; 1 = not very tacky; 15 = very tacky) Shininess (Score by sensory expert panel, out Shininess 2/15 of 15; 1 = not very shining; 15 = very shiny) Greasy (Score by sensory expert panel, out of Greasy 7.5/15 15; 1 = not very greasy; 15 = very greasy)

(67) Composition 16 is non-tacky, non-shiny and non-greasy.