DRESS SHIRT
20190191791 ยท 2019-06-27
Inventors
Cpc classification
International classification
Abstract
A shirt is disclosed as including a first material at least three openings constructed for a neck and two arms of a wearer, and at least two gussets of a second material. Each gusset is located adjacent to a respective one of two of the at least three openings. The at least two gussets are for absorbing at least a portion of movement of the first material. Additionally, this disclosure is also to a pair of gussets for use with a movable material. The pair of gussets includes a first material forming individual gussets of the pair of gussets having different grain than the movable material. Attachment regions in the individual gussets are for the movable material to include the individual gussets adjacent to at least two openings constructed for a wearer of the movable material.
Claims
1. A shirt comprising: a first material at least three openings constructed for a neck and two arms of a wearer; and at least two gussets of a second material comprising a different grain than the first material, each gusset located adjacent to a respective one of two of the at least three openings, the at least two gussets absorbing at least a portion of movement of the first material.
2. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the first material comprises multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together according to pre-determined dimensions.
3. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the second material comprises multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together according to pre-determined dimensions.
4. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: an elasticized hem at a bottom portion of the first material.
5. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: tapered dimensions to the first material, where a chest area of the first material is wider than a hip area of the first material, and the hip area is wider than a posterior area of the first material.
6. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a set of primary buttons on the first material; and a set of secondary buttons on the first material, a last button of the secondary buttons being adjacent to a hem of the shirt.
7. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the secondary buttons are snap-type buttons.
8. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a set of primary buttons on the first material; and a set of secondary buttons on the first material, a last button of the secondary buttons being adjacent to a hem of the shirt.
9. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a vertical opening extending along a front of the shirt and including at least a portion of a first opening of the at least three openings; the vertical opening having a first side and second side, each of the first side and the second side securable to each other using primary buttons and secondary buttons; and the primary buttons offering at least one different mechanical aspect than the secondary buttons.
10. The shirt of claim 9, wherein the vertical opening comprises a portion of an elasticized hem.
11. A pair of gussets for use with a movable material, comprising: a first material forming individual gussets of the pair of gussets having a different grain than the movable material; and attachment regions in the individual gussets for the movable material to comprise the individual gussets adjacent to at least two openings constructed for a wearer of the movable material.
12. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein second material of the pair of gussets comprises multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together according to pre-determined dimensions.
13. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual gussets of the pair of gussets are symmetrical to each other.
14. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: a hem within the gusset forming the attachment regions, the hem being a doubled-over first material.
15. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: the first material having different portions of a same fabric stitched together.
16. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: the first material having different portions of different fabrics stitched together, the different fabrics of an aggregate elasticity that is more than an elasticity of the movable material.
17. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the gussets are shaped in a form of a diamond.
18. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the gussets are attachable to different areas of the movable material.
19. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the gussets are colored similar to a color of the movable material.
20. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the gussets are of material that comprises similar texture to the movable material.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0013]
[0014]
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[0020]
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[0024]
[0025]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0026] The present invention solves the problems of the prior art, by providing a novel new design for a dress shirt that does not bunch up or become easily untucked. The dress shirt in one embodiment is constructed with an at least partially tapered torso portion comprised of a front portion made of fabric and an at least partially tapered torso back portion made of the same fabric. Fabrics may be comprised of polyester, nylon, lyocel, rayon, modal, or natural fabrics like wool, cotton, silk, or jersey, and any blends thereof. In this embodiment, the dress shirt also features two openings for the insertion of the intended wearer's arm, wherein the upper region of the dress shirt where the front and back torso portions attach by seam is closed except for a hole for the insertion of the intended wearer's head and neck.
[0027]
[0028] Each of shirts 100, 110, 130 may be men's or women's dress shirt. When the shirt is a men's dress shirt, sizes may include: 15 32/33, 15 34/35, 15.5 32/33, 15.5 34/35, 16 32/33, 16 34/35, 16.5 32/33, 16.5 34/35, 17 32/33, 17 34/35, 17.5 32/33, and 17.5 34/35. A person of ordinary skill would recognize these sizes as corresponding to a sleeve length and neck circumference, respectively, in each case. Additionally, a default size may exist at 15.5 34/35/. Further, each of shirts 100, 110, 130 may include fusible tape and fusible webbing to bind and maintain the shape of various shirt components.
[0029] A neck band 142 is provided with circumference that reflects a predetermined ratio with the sleeves. The hem 116, 136 maybe styled in a straight line or with one or more curves as illustrated in the differences of the hem in
[0030]
[0031]
[0032] In a further aspect, the example shirts herein are generally made of a stretch cotton poplin material. Such a material may be 95% to 100% cotton and may include spandex as to any remaining portion. Alternatively, the material may be 95% to 100% of a synthetic poly fabric. Further, the gusset 180 may be constructed from one or more panels and may include same or similar material as the shirt, but cut on a different grain as the shirt. The shirt referred to such context is understood by a person of ordinary skill in the art to include at least substantially the torso portion 178. Further, in another example, the gusset is of same or similar material as the shirt (e.g., the torso portion 178), but may include variations to the spandex content in the gussets 172A, 172B for added or different elasticity or stretch characteristics. In an example, the shirt is in a straight grain cut with elasticity or stretch characteristics of at least the torso portion 178 applying across the bodycircumferentially, while the gussets used in the shirt is in a cross grain cut with elasticity or stretch characteristics of the gussets applying to vertical movement asserted to the armpit (or the sleeves generally). In any construction, the gusset 180 is designed symmetrical about at least axis 182. This symmetry ensures even distribution of stretches when the sleeves are moved around by a wearer of the shirt incorporating the gussets. As a result, the gussets are able to absorb the stretching from the sleeves by allowing the gusset material to stretch vertically, while the rest of the shirt allows stretching around the circumference of the wearer. As such, a bottom part of the shirt that is within a lower garment, such as trousers or skirts, stays untucked and resists bunching at the waist, just outside the lower garment.
[0033]
[0034] The wearer may move the arms and the neck during a regular course of use of the shirt, but the second material of the gusset is of more elastic construction than the first material. This allows the gusset to absorb the movements of the wearer without untucking of the shirt from a lower garmentand primarily, without untucking of the first material that is used to construct the shirt and that is of lesser elasticity. The gusset, therefore, also helps resist the bunching of the first material around the area just outside the lower garment. The first material is also referred to herein as a movable material as it allows movement by the wearer, but the movement must be absorbed by the gusset to prevent untucking and to resist bunching as explained throughout this disclosure. Furthermore, the gussets include attachment regions (e.g., reference numeral 184 in
[0035] The gusset incorporating the second material may also include multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together according to pre-determined dimensions and/or pre-determined cuts of a different grain than the first material. In an alternative implementation, different fabric of different elasticities may be used instead in the gusset. An average or aggregate of the different elasticities (or applicable direction of the different elasticities) may make the second material have more elasticity in a certain direction that is not afforded to in the first material. In a further alternative implementation, the first material includes woven variations in the taper areas to change an elasticity of the first material. For example, while constructing the first material, a lower elasticity is offered in the chest area, an increasing elasticity amount is offered in the hips area followed by the highest elasticity in the posterior area. This allows the shirt to maintain position while tucked in. However, a person of ordinary skill would also consider that the lower elasticity is offered in the chest area, followed by decreasing elasticity amounts in the hips and the posterior area. This may be to allow for arm and neck movements to be absorbed in the material of the chest area and not transferred to the lower half of the shirt. In either aspects, there is a variation of the elasticity of the first material by integrated weaving or by incorporating different materials behind the first materials or by stitching together different areas of materials to form a first material. Separately, the first material may be of a uniform singular elasticity throughout at least the torso portion. As such, a first material, unless expressed differently, may include one or more fabrics or cuts of fabrics. The one or more fabrics may be of one or more elasticities and of one or more quantities within the first material. Such variations may also be in the gusset, but the gusset is constructed of a different elasticity or of a different cut than its adjacent first material, making it distinct from the first material.
[0036]
[0037] A further embodiment of the disclosure is in
[0038] The dimensional identifiers indicated in the
[0039] The dress shirt, schematically shown in side view on
[0040] The bottom of the shirt is constructed to extend below posterior of the buttock (1006). That is, for a shirt constructed for given size category, the person corresponding to that size category that wears the constructed shirt should have the bottom hem of the shirt extend past their posterior of their buttock (1006). A shirt is constructed for given size category if a person corresponding to that size category can fit properly into the shirt so that their head and neck protrude through the corresponding holes in the shirt without undue stretch of the chest region of the shirt (1002) when the front of the shirt is buttoned or otherwise closed. In an embodiment, the bottom (including or referencing the hem) of the shirt extends between approximately 1 inch and 4 inches past the posterior (1006) when a shirt of a given size category is worn by a person corresponding to that size category.
[0041] In one embodiment the fabric of the dress shirt is a stretch material that exhibits elastic properties in a specific direction for substantially a torso portion of the shirt and that cause the region of the shirt in the area of the posterior (1006) and below to the hem (1008) to hug the lower buttock region of the properly sized wearer, (1006) to (1008). The posterior (1006) is the region of the buttock that extends out the furthest from the body. The elasticity of the fabric may be sufficient to create the hugging effect along the posterior region (1006) to (1008), where the fabric is engaged with the posterior, but the elasticity is not so that the shirt rides up and bunches up at the waist region (1004). Fabrics like cotton do not exhibit sufficient elasticity for the hugging effect, and high-elasticity fabrics like spandex, which are used in so-called muscle-shirts, bunch up at the waist (1004) when they are worn. Therefore, the elasticity of the fabric is such that the shirt engages or hugs the wearer's buttocks but does not bunch at the waist. For this reason, neither woven cotton shirts with little elasticity nor highly elastic muscle-shirts are shirts that meet the requirements of staying tucked and not bunching up at the waist.
[0042] The fabric should have a recovery after 1 minute of approximately 85% or more. In one embodiment, the fabric is a woven or knit fabrics using at least 4% and not more than approximately 10% of the deformable fiber, for example, spandex or a fiber similar to it in elasticity. In other embodiments, the fabric is a woven stretch cotton poplin comprised of 96% cotton and 4% of a resiliently deformable material, such as Lycra or a fiber similar to it in elasticity. In the preferred embodiment, the resulting fabric exhibits a modulus of a range between approximately 0.32 and 0.675 pounds of force (lbf) in the vertical direction and a modulus in the horizontal direction between 0.227 and 0.473 lbf with a resulting elongation of 165%+/25%, or in the range of 123% to 206% in the vertical and an elongation of 185% +/25%, or in the rage of 138% to 231% in the horizontal direction. Elongation may be specified as a percentage of the original fabric specimen length at a specified load.
[0043] In another embodiment, the dress shirt has an elasticized hem. In one embodiment the elasticized hem is constructed by creating a casing hem line and then inserting a piece of elastic material in the fabric casing and then sealing all the edges. In another embodiment an elasticized hem is only created in the back portion of the shirt, which is then connected by a seam to the front portion of the shirt that features a traditional non-elasticized hem. In the preferred embodiment, the elastic hem width is between approximately and approximately 1. In the preferred embodiment, the elastic hem has an minimum stretch of elastic hem sweep of 40% with the ability of the hem to recover back to 0%, that is, of its measurement. The elastic may be sewn into the hem from side seam to side seam using an spi of 17-20 when relaxedwhich will equate to 14-18 spi when the elastic hem is stretched tight. The elastic is aligned with the fabric edge either manually or using a machine folder, and then encased into the fabric with two folds, with a single needle stitched to secure the hem. The stitch should be at least 15 spi but no more than 20 spi. An exemplary process of constructing the hem is shown in
[0044] In yet another embodiment of the dress shirt, there is a vertical opening extending from the front of the neck hole down to and including the front of the bottom hem. This opening has a first and second side, corresponding to the left and right side of the shirt, viewed from the wearer's perspective. In one embodiment, closure devices are attached along the edge of the first and second sides of the opening. In the preferred embodiment, these are buttons on one side and corresponding button holes on the other. In the preferred embodiment, there are between 7 and 14 closure devices along the opening. In the preferred embodiment, the last two closure devices at the bottom of the shirt are capable of spontaneously opening when the two sides of the opening are pulled apart from each other above a pre-determined force. See
[0045] One embodiment of the invention is shown on
[0046] The dimensional identifiers indicated in the
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Points of Measure Tolerance Tolerance (POM) DESCRIPTION () (+) 14 15 15 1.sup.st Fit 2.sup.nd Fit A1 Center Front 31 31 32 32 (CF) Length From Highest Point at Shoulder (HPS) to Bottom Edge A2 Length at HPS 30 31 32 to Bottom Edge A3 Sideseam 17 18 18 19 Length From Armhole to Bottom Edge A4 Shoulder Slope 1 A5 Forward 2 2 2 2 Shoulder Yoke at Armhole A7 Waist 0 0 16 16 16 Placement from HPS B1 Waist Width at 18 18 18 18 PO, A7 B2 Hem Sweep on 17 17 18 18 the Straight B3 Chest Width 1 20 20 20 20 Below Armhole B4 Front Width 6 16 Down From tapered HPS C1 Center Back 30 31 32 31 (CB) Length to Bottom Edge from Neck Seam C2 Length at HPS 30 31 31 32 to Bottom Edge at Back C3 Back Yoke 3 3 3 3 Height from Neck Seam to Yoke Seam at CB C4 Dart Placement 6 6 6 from Sideseams C5 Top of Dart 6 6 6 6 Placement from Side Seam (SS) C6 Bottom of Dart 5 5 5 5 Placement from SS C7 Dart Length 13 13 14 14 C8 Dart Depth C9 Distance 8 8 8 8 Between Darts D2 Back Shoulders 16 17 17 17 Width, Armhole to Armhole D3 Back Yoke 16 16 17 16 Length D4 Back Width 6 16 15 Down From HPS D5 Back Hem 18 18 19 19 Sweep D6 Back Hem 22 22 23 24 Sweep Extended S1 Sleeve Length 34 34 34 34 from CB Neck 3 s//b 33 Point Measurement 32/33 S1a Sleeve Length 35 35 35 from CB Neck 3 Point Measurement 34/35 S2 Sleeve Length 25 25 25 25 from Armhole S3 Armhole on 9 10 10 10 Curve S4 Muscle Width 7 7 8 7 1 Down From Armhole S5 Forearm Width 6 6 6 6 12 Up From Sleeve Opening S6 Cuff Height 2 2 2 S7 Cuff Opening 4 4 4 Closed S8 Distance Between Buttons SL1 Cuff Width 10 10 10 Open at Widest Part SL2 Cuff Width at 8 8 8 Bottom Edge SL3 Cuff Edge 1 Ankle Length SL4 Buttonhole 1 1 1 Placement From Cuff Seam SL5 Distance from 8 8 8 Center of Buttonhole to Center of Buttonhole SL6 Distance to First 1 1 1 Sleeve Dart from Edge SL7 First Sleeve Dart Depth SL8 Distance to 1 1 1 Second Sleeve Dart SL9 2.sup.nd Sleeve Dart Depth PL1 Sleeve Placket 5 5 5 Length at Side to Seam PL2 Sleeve Placket 6 6 6 Length at Tip to Seam PL3 Sleeve Placket Width PL4 Doghouse 1 1 1 Length at Side PL5 Doghouse Length on Angle PL6 Button 2 2 2 Placement from Cuff PL7 Ribbon Insert at Cuff E1 Top Collar 15 15 15 14 Length at Edge E2 Collar Length at 14 15 15 15 Stand Seam E3 Collar Height at 1 11/16 1 11/16 1 11/16 1 11/16 Center Back E4 Collar Height at 0 0 Edge F1 Collar Facing 1 1 1 Height at Edge F2 Collar Facing 15 15 15 Length Edge to Edge F3 Collar Facing 8 8 9 Length Along Stand F4 Collar Facing 2 2 3 Angle Length F5 Distance from 15 16 16 16 Center Button Hole to Center Hole F6 Collar Stand 16 16 17 Length F7 Collar Stand 1 3/16 Height at Center F8 Collar Stand Height at Edge F9 Collar Stand Height at Collar Edge F0 Collar Stand 11/16 11/16 11/16 Length from Collar to Edge G1 Collar Stay 0 0 1 2 2 Height G2 Collar Stay 0 0 2 Width H1 Collar Spread H2 Front Neck 4 4 4 Drop from HPS H3 Back Neck Drop 3 3 4 from HPS H4 Tie Space 0 0 0 H5 Ribbon Insert at Neck/Stand Set J1 Front Placket 1 1 1 Width J2 Face Placket Width J3 Hem Height K1 Distance 2 2 2 Between Band Button to First Placket Button K2 Distance 1 1/16 1 1/16 1 1/16 Between Buttons Center to Center K3 Distance from 0 0 Hem to Bottom Snaps K4 Distance Between Snaps X1 Placement of 1 1 1 Extra Buttons on Underside of Button Plackets
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Points of 15.5 34/35 Size Chart Review Measure Tolerance Tolerance Actual (POM) DESCRIPTION () (+) Target Actual Delta Revised Al Center Front (CF) Length From 32 Highest Point at Shoulder (HPS) to Bottom Edge A2 Neck Width - Seam to Seam 5 6 5 ( Grade) A7 Waist 0 0 16 Placement from HPS B1 Waist Width at PO, A7 18 B3 Chest Width 1 Below Armhole B4 Front Width 6 Down From 16 HPS tapered C3 Back Yoke Height from Neck 3 Seam to Yoke Seam at CB C9 Distance 8 8 Between Darts D2 Back Shoulders Width, 17 17 Armhole to Armhole D3 Back Yoke Length 17 16 D5 Back Hem Sweep 19 19 D6 Back Hem Sweep Extended 23 24 S1 Sleeve Length from Center Back (CB) Neck 3 Point Measurement 32/33 S3 Armhole on Curve 25 S4 Muscle Width 1 Down From 10 Armhole S5 Forearm Width 12 Up From 8 Sleeve Opening Ref. FIG. Gusset Width - To 3 3 3 1F Edges/Center Stitch Ref. FIG. Gusset Length - To 11 10 11 1F Edges/Center Stitch