Cosmetic use of a geraniol-rich essential oil of Satureja montana as deodorant active agent

Abstract

Provided is a cosmetic use, as deodorant active agent, of an essential oil of Satureja montana comprising more than 60% by weight of geraniol and more than 5% by weight of trans--caryophyllene, and in particular an essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata or Satureja Montana var. citrodoria oil. Also provided is a cosmetic method for treating human body odors, in particular the armpits or feet, which comprises applying, to human keratin materials, at least one Satureja montana essential oil comprising more than 60% by weight of geraniol and more than 5% by weight of trans--caryophyllene, and in particular an essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata or Satureja Montana var. citrodoria oil or a composition containing same in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

Claims

1. A cosmetic method for treating human body odours which comprises applying to human keratin materials, a composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and as a deodorant active agent, an essential oil of Satureja montana comprising more than 65% by weight of geraniol and more than 5% by weight of trans--caryophyllene relative to the total weight of the constituents of the essential oil, wherein the essential oil of Satureja montana is present in the composition in a content of between 0.001% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, in which the geraniol is present in a content greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the constituents of the essential oil.

3. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, in which the trans--caryophyllene is present in a content greater than or equal to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the constituents of the essential oil.

4. The cosmetic method according to claim 3, in which the geraniol is present in the composition in a content greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the constituents of the essential oil.

5. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, in which each of the following constituents is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the constituents of the essential oil: germacrene D, nerol, neral, 1-octen-3-ol, geranial, -bisabolene.

6. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil is an essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegate.

7. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil of Satureja montana is obtained from an aerial part of a plant.

8. The cosmetic method according to claim 1 where the essential oil of Satureja montana is present in the composition in a content of between 0.01% and 2% relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil of Satureja montana acts as an antibacterial agent for treating human body odours caused by Corynebacterium xerosis.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) An essential oil of lemon sariette (Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) was prepared from the aerial part of the plant at the end-of-flowering stage by distillation of 8 kg by fresh weight by steam distillation in a 50 litre distillation device. Yield obtained about 0.53%

(2) The essential oil obtained comprises, as major constituents

(3) TABLE-US-00001 Geraniol 75.5% by weight Trans--caryophyllene 8.8% by weight Germacrene D 2.6% by weight Nerol 2.7% by weight Neral 1.2% by weight Geranial 0.9% by weight 1-Octen-3-ol 1.3% by weight Beta-bisabolene 0.8% by weight.

(4) The composition of the essential oil obtained was determined by GC and mass spectrometry.

(5) Test for Activity of the Essential Oil of Satureia montana L. Var. Variegata (or Satureia montana Citrodoria Oil) on Inhibition of the Microorganism Cornebacterium xerosis (CIP 52.16)

(6) The essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata used in the present example was dispersed in a dilute agar gel.

(7) Principle:

(8) The aim of this test is to more particularly determine the activity of a composition comprising an essential oil in accordance with the invention with respect to the microorganism Cornebacterium xerosis, derived from the Collection of the Institut Pasteur 52.16, implicated in phenomena associated with the development of unpleasant underarm odours, this microorganism being placed under optimal growth conditions.

(9) Protocol:

(10) By a method of dilution in a liquid medium, various concentrations of the Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata essential oil are brought into contact with a nutritive broth inoculated with the test strain. After incubation, the surviving microorganisms are counted (log). Preparation of the composition comprising the essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata (or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) subjected to the test: a stock solution at 10% in 1% agar is prepared. The essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata (or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) is brought into contact, at a concentration that is double the test concentration, with a doubly concentrated nutritive broth containing a titre of approximately between 2 and 6.10.sup.5 CFU/ml. The preparation is thus mixed at 50/50 with the C. xerosis culture broth. After incubating at 32.5 C.2.5 C. for 24 h, the surviving microorganisms are counted by spiral inoculation and compared with the starting inoculum in order to define the degrees of reduction obtained. A value of 5.2 log is assigned to the initial inoculum.

(11) Spiral inoculation systems use a semi-automatic inoculator of the AES or Interscience type, which deposits a calibrated volume of a liquid sample at the surface of an agar placed on a rotating plate, while describing an Archimedean spiral. After incubation, reading is carried out using graphs. This technique makes it possible to carry out the bacterial count of a sample on one and the same dish, dispensing with all or some of the intermediate dilutions. This methodology is much used and is an officially accepted technique.

(12) Operating Conditions:

(13) Concentrations of essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata (or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) tested: 0.1%, 0.5% and 1% (v/v or w/v). Diluant used: 1% agar. Appearance in the product in the broth: opaque emulsion.
Results:

(14) After having inoculated approximately 5.2 log into the medium containing various concentrations of the essential oil, a decontamination of about 3.3 log of the bacterial population was obtained right from 0.1% after 24 hours, and total decontamination of the bacterial population was obtained right from 0.5% after 24 hours.

(15) TABLE-US-00002 Starting Contact Concentration Sample tested inoculum time 0.1% 0.5% 1% Solution comprising an 5.2 1.9 essential oil of lemon savory

(16) The essential oil of lemon savory can therefore be used in a composition which thus makes it possible to inhibit the growth of Corynebacterium xerosis, of use for the treatment of unpleasant odours produced by the decomposition of sweat.

EXAMPLE 2

Deodorant Formula: Aerosol

(17) TABLE-US-00003 Essential oil according to Example 1 0.5% Triclosan 0.75% Silicone 3% Fragrance 0.75% Isobutane and propane 45% Ethyl alcohol q.s. for 100%

EXAMPLE 3

Antiperspirant and Deodorant Formula

(18) TABLE-US-00004 Essential oil according to Example 1 0.5% Aluminium Hydrochloride 25% Silicone 1.25% Fragrance 0.7% Water q.s. for 100%
Comparative Tests Between Two Sariette Essential Oils

(19) The relative intensity and the olfactive profile of the smell produced by each of the following essential oils were evaluated: Lemon sariette essential oil (Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) according to example 1; Mountain sariette essential oil (Satureja montana oil) comprising from 10 to 18)/0 of para-cymene, from 0.2 to 2% limonene, from 8 to 18% of -terpinene, from 22 to 30% of carvacrol, from 12 to 20% of thymol and from 2 to 4% de -caryophyllene
Protocol:

(20) The smell of each of sariette essential oils was evaluated by a panel of 10 trained experts which had previously evaluated blindly 30 essential oils diluted at 1% in an oil of Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride in order to have a clear perception but nevertheless not too intense and to be able to compare both sariette essential oils in term of relative intensity. A questionnaire was handed to each. They established their olfactive profiles.

(21) The relative intensity of the smell produced by each essential oil was noted on a scale from 0 to 5: 0 corresponds to the absence of perceived smell and 5 to a very strong smell.

(22) TABLE-US-00005 Satureja montana L. ssp. Variegata (or Satureja montana Evaluated smell citrodoria oil) Satureja montana oil Relative Intensity 3.6 4 Olfactive profile Aromatic - Hesperides Aromatic (lemonated) Phnolic Floral (rose), green, Green, woody, spicy woody, spicy

(23) The experts concluded that the essential oil of Satureja montana L. ssp. variegata oil (or Satureja montana citrodoria oil) produced a less intense and more pleasant smell than the one produced by the essential oil of Satureja montana oil.