PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR
20190133909 · 2019-05-09
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/498
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/06
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61Q5/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for treating hair wherein the hair is semi permanently shaped and subsequently reshaped with the application of an aqueous composition comprising catechin and/or resorcinol and their derivatives.
Claims
1. A process for treating hair comprising the following steps: aoptionally cleansing hair, boptionally drying the hair, capplying an aqueous composition onto hair comprising one or more compounds of the general structure ##STR00007## wherein R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, or a methoxy group, Rx1 represents an aromatic hydrocarbon group, which is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups and which optionally forms a condensed ring with 1,3-dioxolane, and Ry11 represents a hydroxy group, a methoxy group, or an aromatic hydrocarbon group, which is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups and which optionally forms a condensed ring with 1,3-dioxolane, or an arylcarbonyloxy group or aralkylcarbonyloxy group, which is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and/or ##STR00008## one or more compounds of the general structure wherein R1 is hydrogen or methyl, A1 and A2 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl which may have a substituent, C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, halogen or COR2 wherein R2 is selected from C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl which may have a substituent or C6 to C12 aromatic hydrocarbon which may have a substituent, B is selected form hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl which may have a substituent, OR3 or COOR3 wherein R3 is selected from hydrogen, C1 to C6 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, D is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl, methyl or C1 to C12 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, E is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy,and two or three of A1, A2, B and E are hydrogen and the others are not containing sulfonic group, and wherein D is hydrogen or methyl, A1 and B or A2 and B may be bonded mutually to form a benzene ring which may have hydroxyl, with the condition that the composition does not comprise any compound of the general structure and/or a hydrate thereof and/or a salt thereof
RCOR wherein R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C1-C10 alkyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkynyl, optionally substituted C3-C10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C6-C10 aryl or a 5-10-membered, optionally substituted heteroaryl group, wherein the optional substituents of the alkyl group are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino and C1-C4 alkoxy, and the optional substituents of the other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino, C1-C4 alkyl and C1-C4 alkoxy and R is COOH, dincreasing the temperature of the hair to a temperature in the range of 80 to 230 C. for 5 to 120 min, eOptionally rinsing off the hair, fOptionally blow drying the hair.
2. The process according to claim 1 wherein the hair is put on the curlers before or after the step c.
3. The process according to claim 1 wherein the curlers are taken off from hair after step d and prior to rinsing off the hair.
4. The process according to claim 1 wherein the pH of the aqueous composition is in the range of 1.5 to 10.
5. The process according to claim 1 wherein the pH of the aqueous composition is in the range of 1.5 to 10.
6. The process according to claim 1 wherein the aqueous composition comprises alkalizing agent.
7. The process according to claim 6 wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from ammonia and alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00009## wherein R1, R2, and R3 are same or different H, from C1 to C4, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R1, R2, or R3 is different from H, wherein the alkalizing agents are selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethyl-propanol, and particularly suitable one is aminomethyl-propanol and present at a total concentration in the range of 0.25 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.
8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the aqueous composition comprises the compounds of Formula I and/or Formula II at a total concentration in the range of 1 to 50%, by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.
9. The process according to claim 1 wherein one or more compounds of formula I is selected from catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, meciadanol, afzelechin, epiafzelechin, catechin gallate, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, phylloflavan, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, and robinetinidol and/or one or more compounds according to the Formula (II) is selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-n-butyl resorcinol, 4-chlorresorcinol, resveratrol, phloretin and 2,2,4,4-tetrahydroxybenzophenone.
10. The process according to claim 1 wherein the aqueous composition comprises only catechin according to Formula I.
11. The process according to claim 1 wherein the total reducing agent concentration in the aqueous composition is less than 0.1% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.
12. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, selected from polymers with a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20 C. with a Brookfield viscometer, such as at 10 rpm for 1 min, with an appropriate spindle, selected from cellulose polymers, alginates, polysaccarides and acrylic acid polymers, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, alginic acids, sodium alginates, ammonium alginates, calcium alginates, gum arabic, guar gum or xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum or acrylic acid polymers known with the CTFA adopted name Carbomer and its derivatives, comprised in the compositions at a total concentration in the range of 0.1% to 2% by weight, calculated to the total of the aqueous composition.
13. The process according to claim 1 wherein the aqueous composition comprises one or more organic solvent, preferably at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition, selected from 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol, 2-benzyloxyethanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol and 1-pentanol
14. The process according to claim 1 wherein the aqueous composition comprises one or more hair conditioning compounds, selected from fatty alcohols, surfactants such as anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones, ubiquinones, ceramides, organic solvents, lipophilic ingredients such as vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicones, fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, preservatives, amino acids, and polyols.
15. Kit for hair comprising the aqueous composition as described in claim 1.
Description
EXAMPLE 1
[0066] The following compositions were prepared and used in the tests in order to show the effect of the invention.
TABLE-US-00001 Concentration % by weight 1 2 3 4 5 Catechin 20 20 20 20 30 Ammonia (25%) 2 2 2 2 Benzyl alcohol 5 5 Ethanol 5 Water q.s. to 100 pH 4.0 8.4 8.4 8.4 8.4 Processing temperature 140 140 140 140 140 Curl ratio % 38 45 45 45 50
[0067] The above compositions were prepared and used for treating hair. Therefore, hair streaks with a length of 20 cm were used. The compositions were applied onto shampooed and dried hair in a hair to composition weight ratio of 1:1. Afterwards, the hair was put on rods of the digital perm machine and the rods were heated to 140 C. (measured on the hair with an infrared digital thermometer from a distance of 15 cm) and let on the hair for 30 min. The hair was covered with an aluminum sheet during processing in order to prevent hair drying. Afterwards the hair was taken off from the digital perming machine, rinsed off with water, blow dried, the length was measured and the curl ratio was calculated with the following equation.
Curl ratio (CR)=((L0Lt)/L0)100
Wherein L0 is the length of the hair prior to the treatment, Lt is the length of the hair after the treatment.
[0068] From the above results it is clear that the hair is shaped with the process of the present invention.
[0069] Additionally, the curl durability of the hair streak obtained with the composition 3 of the above Table was tested by repeatedly washing the hair streak with a commercially available shampoo composition under the brand Goldwell. The following results were obtained.
TABLE-US-00002 Number of wash cycles Curl Ratio Start 45 5 30 10 16
[0070] Additionally, the tress treated with the composition 1 of the above Table, was straightened using a flat iron having a surface temperature of 230 C. The hair was treated 5 times with 3 sec heat application period and it was observed that the curly hair was straightened.
[0071] The same straightened hair was then again curled with curling iron operated at 180 C. for 30 sec and repeated 3 times the same and it was observed that the hair was curled again and had the similar curl retention value and similar wash fastness.
[0072] Similar results are observed with the following examples.
EXAMPLE 2
[0073]
TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Catechin 20 Polyquaternium-37 1 Water to 100
[0074] The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 60%.
EXAMPLE 3
[0075]
TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Catechin 20 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1 Water to 100
[0076] The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 50%.
EXAMPLE 4
[0077]
TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Catechin 20 Xanthan gum 1 Water to 100
[0078] The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 60%.