FLAT-KNITTED OUTDOOR CLOTHING AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SAME
20190125018 ยท 2019-05-02
Assignee
Inventors
- Kenneth Kurtzweg (Ober?geri, CH)
- Nico Serena (Risch, CH)
- Isabel Rosa M?ggler Zumstein (Z?rich, CH)
- Fran?oise Adler (Bern, CH)
Cpc classification
A41D31/14
HUMAN NECESSITIES
B32B27/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
A41D31/125
HUMAN NECESSITIES
D10B2331/04
TEXTILES; PAPER
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
International classification
B32B27/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B5/02
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
Abstract
A garment is provided which includes a flat-knitted fabric laminate made of at least one flat-knitted fabric. The flat-knitted fabric includes a polyurethane film which is stretchable in substantially all directions. A knit fabric made of fleecy thread may be adhesively bonded to the film and be positioned between the film and the inner lining. The garment can be made up of five tailored flat-knitted laminate pieces: three flat-knitted laminate pieces for the two front sides and the rear side of the torso, and two flat-knitted laminate pieces for the two sleeves. The seams form the two sleeve cuffs, and the seams are sewn onto the flat-knitted laminate pieces for the torso. The front pieces are sewn together, and the rear side of the torso piece is positioned along the side of the torso by a respective seam. The seams are used to connect these parts along the shoulders.
Claims
1.-15. (canceled)
16. A garment for wearing outdoors, the garment comprising: a single part or multiple parts sewn together, the single part or each of the multiple parts each being made of a flat-knitted fabric laminate, and the laminate at least being made from a flat-knitted fabric that is manufactured on a flat knitting machine, wherein the flat-knitted fabric forms the outer shell of the garment, followed by a waterproof and vapor-permeable, adhesively bonded film which is stretchable in all directions that adjoins the flat-knitted fabric on its inner side, and further inwardly, optionally followed by a knitted fabric or mesh fabric made from fleecy thread to provide thermal insulation, and at the innermost location, a flat or circularly knitted or flat-knitted inner lining as a tube or as piece goods, which in the absence of a thermal insulation layer is adhesively bonded directly to the polyurethane film or is suspended inside the garment, or when the knitted fabric or the mesh fabric is present, the inner lining, as thermal insulation, is suspended on same or fastened thereto, either detachably, or fixedly by seams or stitches.
17. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the adhesively bonded film is made of polyurethane.
18. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the multiple parts are sewn together from two up to five parts, each of which is a flat-knitted fabric laminate, wherein the flat-knitted fabric laminate is made at least from a flat-knitted fabric for the outer side of the garment, the flat-knitted fabric is manufactured from a PES/CD thread combination or a PA/EL fiber combination, and further inwardly, followed by a waterproof, vapor-permeable film made of polyurethane that is stretchable in all directions, and at the inside, an inner lining that is detachably or fixedly installed.
19. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as an athletic jacket for skiing, cross-country skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, golfing, cycling, horseback riding, and/or for other outdoor activities, in that the athletic jacket is made up of five fitted flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces, including two flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the front side and one piece for the rear side of the torso to be surrounded, and two flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the two sleeves, and that the seams for forming the two sleeve cuffs, after rolling about the longitudinal axis and being sewn onto the flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the torso at the hole edges, together with the seams, the seams for sewing together the front side and rear side of the torso piece along their lateral edges, and the seam along the shoulder are the only structural seams for assembling the athletic jacket.
20. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as an athletic jacket for skiing, cross-country skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, golfing, cycling, horseback riding, and/or for other outdoor activities, in that the athletic jacket is made up of three fitted flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces, including a flat-knitted fabric laminate piece for the torso, and two flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the two sleeves, and that the seams for forming the two sleeve cuffs, after rolling about the longitudinal axis and being sewn onto the flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the torso at the hole edges, and the seams for sewing together the front side and rear side of the torso piece 3 along the shoulders, are the only structural seams for assembling the athletic jacket.
21. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as an athletic jacket for skiing, cross-country skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, golfing, cycling, horseback riding, and/or for other outdoor activities, in that the athletic jacket is made up of three flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces, each manufactured in a tubular shape and fitted, including a tubular flat-knitted fabric laminate piece for the torso, and two tubular flat-knitted fabric laminate pieces for the two sleeves, and that the seams for sewing on the two sleeve cuffs and the seams for sewing together the front side and rear side of the torso piece along the shoulders are the only structural seams for assembling the athletic jacket.
22. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the two free edges of the front part for covering the torso are equipped with a zipper or a hook and loop fastener, and that slits that are openable in increments with zippers or other closures are present in the front sleeves, in order to create cooling openings that lead through the laminate and that are spanned by a flat-knitted or knitted material.
23. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as athletic pants for skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, golfing, cycling, horseback riding, and/or for other outdoor activities, in that the pants are made up of two fitted flat-knitted laminate pieces, including a piece for the front side of the pants and a piece for the rear side of the pants, and that the two pieces are sewn together all the way to the waist along the inner side of the pants legs and along the outer side of the pants legs with three seams, and that a zipper, a hook and loop fastener, button closures, button closures, or snap buttons are installed on the front side from the waist to approximately the crotch.
24. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as athletic pants for skiing, mountain climbing, hiking, golfing, cycling, horseback riding, and/or for other outdoor activities, in that the pants are made up of two fitted tubular flat-knitted laminate pieces, including two pants legs having a flat flap at the top for the lumbar area and waist, wherein the two flaps in the area of the lower back, seat, and crotch are sewn together with a single seam, and the two pants legs in the front area are equipped with a zipper, a hook and loop fastener that joins the pants legs, button closures, or snap buttons in the front area, from above the crotch, across the lower abdomen, to the waist.
25. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as a golf vest and is made up of a single one-piece, flat-knitted fabric laminate.
26. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment is designed as a riding jacket with an appropriate jacket cut and collar, and with buttons as a jacket closure.
27. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the garment has various three-dimensional knit fabric structures and/or various colors over individual flat-knitted fabric laminate parts.
28. The garment for wearing outdoors according to claim 16, wherein the flat-knitted fabric is manufactured from at least two different polyester fibers (PES fibers), including normal PES fibers and cationically dyed fibers (cationic dyed yarn), which assume different colors at different temperatures, so that a two-tone color effect is producible.
29. A method for manufacturing a garment for wearing outdoors, whose single part or whose multiple parts are each made of a flat-knitted fabric laminate, the method comprising: a) knitting a flat-knitted fabric on a flat knitting machine for the entire garment, b) applying a waterproof and vapor-permeable film that is stretchable in all directions to a web of the flat-knitted fabric by full-surface gluing, c) cutting out cutting pattern parts needed for producing the desired garment from the laminated material, d) optionally applying a knitted fabric or mesh fabric made from fleecy thread to the cutting pattern parts, on the side of the film, by gluing at selected points or over the entire surface, or such a knitted fabric or mesh fabric is omitted, e) applying, when a knitted fabric or mesh fabric is omitted, an inner lining made of flat or circularly knitted or flat-knitted or woven textile material directly to the film, or otherwise to the knitted fabric or mesh fabric by stitching at selected points, or continuous sewing, or by detachable connections, f) sewing, in the case of multiple parts, the cutting pattern parts together to form the garment.
30. The method for manufacturing a garment according to claim 29, wherein for each corresponding letter, a) a tubular flat-knitted fabric is knitted on a flat knitting machine for one or more parts of the garment to be manufactured, b) the waterproof but vapor-permeable film that is stretchable in all directions is applied to the flat-knitted fabric by full-surface gluing, in that the tubular flat-knitted fabric is turned inside out, with its inner side facing outwardly, and the film is adhesively bonded to the inner side of the tube, which then faces outwardly, c) a knitted fabric or mesh fabric made of fleecy thread is mounted on the film by gluing at selected points or over the entire surface, d) an inner lining made of flat or circularly knitted or flat-knitted or woven textile material is mounted on the knitted fabric or mesh fabric by stitching at selected points, or continuous sewing, or by detachable connections, e) the tubular flat-knitted fabric laminate is turned inside out so that its original outer side once again faces outwardly, and this part of the garment to be manufactured, as well as the other tubular or flat laminate pieces, are fitted and cut out for producing the desired garment piece according to the cutting pattern parts needed, f) the cutting pattern parts are sewn together to form the garment.
Description
[0020] In the figures:
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[0033] The invention breaks new ground, in that for the first time, a flat-knitted fabric is used as the base material for the outer shell of garments for outdoor use, namely, for athletic jackets such as winter sport jackets, in particular ski or golf jackets, mountain climbing jackets, hiking jackets, riding jackets, and similar recreational apparel, for the upper body, as well as for garments designed as pants. The technological basis for producing flat-knitted fabric goods is the use of knit and stitch combinations which are characteristically made of multiple threads. Entire systems of threads from various origins are joined together to form stitches. The structural basis of these knitted goods is the stitch formation. For this reason, knitted goods are also known as knitwear, but differ from the knitted products. Knit fabrics may be manufactured in various ways. The products from the manufacturing process may be categorized in two different forms, firstly in the form of a textile tube, and secondly in the form of a flat textile material, known as piece goods. In commercial textile manufacturing, the tube is also known as double Raschel knitted fabric, and the piece goods are also known as flat fabric or warp knitted fabric or Raschel knitted fabric. Knit fabrics are generally multi-thread systems, which differentiates them from conventional knitted products. For warp knitting, the machine operates with one or more thread chains made up of a number of differently sized threads. For the stitch formation, the individual chain threads are placed around the needles. The needles are then moved together. Knitted textiles that have been manufactured on a warp knitting machine have a striking feature. The stitch-forming threads run through the fabric in the longitudinal direction, predominantly in a zigzag pattern. As a result, the fabric cannot draw up and is largely run-proof. The numerous knitted fabrics that are created by alternating yarn variations and stitch configurations are used in many spheres of life. A knitted fabric has an average tension force, and but is still elastic to a certain degree. The knitted textiles have very little wrinkling, are lightweight, and are characterized by good adjustability of the climate behavior, for example the breathing activity. The knitted materials include, for example, textiles for undergarments and outerwear, terrycloth fabrics, and Nylon hosiery. Materials such as fleece and nicky velour, which are likewise made from knitted materials, have extremely high wearing comfort.
[0034]
[0035] The advantages of flat-knitted fabrics are in particular: [0036] The precise adjustability with regard to stretching/strength and transparency/density. [0037] They offer almost unlimited pattern options, based on the stitch design and free placement of the patterns in the knitted area. [0038] A flat-knitted fabric cannot draw up, and is largely run-proof. [0039] A flat-knitted fabric has no fraying cut edges. [0040] All yarn counts can be processed in a flat-knitted fabric. [0041] A flat-knitted fabric has high elasticity in the transverse and longitudinal directions. According to a test under DIN 53 815, the elasticity of stretching and recovery is compared to woven textiles. In the weft direction, the elasticity of a flat-knitted fabric is, for example, approximately 46% greater than that of the known woven ski garment textile material LY242. This is very significant, since no elastanes are used for this purpose; rather, this elasticity originates solely from the structure of the flat-knitted fabric. [0042] Its elasticity can be adjusted very well, and may also be kept very low, if necessary, by the selection of the yarn and the stitch configuration. [0043] A flat-knitted fabric has a very stable structure and shape despite the high elasticity. [0044] A flat-knitted fabric has high strength. [0045] A flat-knitted fabric is extremely run-proof. [0046] A flat-knitted fabric has a comparatively low mass and is therefore lightweight. [0047] A flat-knitted fabric allows a product design with less seams. A seam is basically a so-called high point in the product design, and thus causes chafing and pressure points during use. In addition, it is possible that the sewing thread in the seam may tear during use. The reduced-seam product design minimizes/eliminates weak points and risks in the product which would result from the use of seams.
[0048] Despite these properties, which have been known for many years, thus far no athletic jackets or pants for the outdoors, made from such a flat-knitted fabric, has been manufactured and put on the market, which is actually surprising. Such a knitted fabric most likely would not have had the required weather resistance, so that for decades, conventional athletic jackets such as ski jackets and hiking jackets have been made, almost without exception, from woven textiles, if not from leather or film material for the outer shell. The flat-knitted outdoor clothing presented here thus breaks completely new ground, and opens up a level of wearing comfort thus far unknown. However, the manufacture of the garments is also greatly simplified by the use of flat-knitted fabrics, in that either they may be made up of a single part, or several parts must now be sewn together and the number of seams may be significantly reduced. Furthermore, it is much easier and quicker to convert a flat knitting machine for a different product than is the case for a weaving machine. Thus, manufacturing such garments from flat-knitted fabric laminates is much more flexible than manufacturing woven garments. The most important special property of a garment made of a flat-knitted fabric laminate is the extremely high wearing comfort, even when the garment lies right against the body. The flat-knitted fabric laminates have a high modulus of elasticity, and the garments manufactured therefrom do not restrict under the stress from body movements; in fact, they are hardly even felt, and there is little change in their close fit due to movements of the body.
[0049] To manufacture a garment made from a flat-knitted fabric for the outer shell, the flat-knitted fabric, which comes off the machine as a web, is initially processed to form a laminate, which on the one hand reduces the air permeability but still ensures vapor permeability and thus, breathing activity and transpiration ability for the wearer, and on the other hand ensures a high level of comfort on the body. For this purpose, a laminate design 3 as illustrated in
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[0051] The flat-knitted fabrics in each case form the outer shell of a garment. A flat-knitted fabric is several mm thick, and has a feel similar to a close-knit knitted material, i.e., similar to a tightly knitted, thick pullover. In the case of a ski jacket, the flat-knitted fabric 4 is made, for example, of two different polyester fibers (PES fibers), namely, normal PES fibers and cationically dyed fibers (cationic dyed yarn). These fibers take on various colors in the dyeing process, and may thus also achieve a two-tone color effect. This type of coloring is the basis for patterning, which in comparison to printed patterning results from the construction, and therefore is inherently present in the textile surface. This opens up totally new design possibilities. Prior to the processing, the knitted fabric 4 for the outer shell of the garment is made water-repellent via a known process (durable water-repellent (DWR) treatment). The thin polyurethane film 5 that is elastically stretchable in all directions is laminated onto the side of the flat-knitted fabric 4 that is intended for the inner side of the garment. In one variant, the entire laminate may be produced first, i.e., with the thermal insulation layer 6 and the inner lining 7 on the film 5, so that a complete flat-knitted fabric laminate 3 is present for the garment. The necessary parts for a garment to be produced may then be cut out, according to cutting patterns, from such a strip-like laminate 3 having a width of approximately 1500 mm to 2500 mm. This may take place by cutting out by hand, by punching, or by sawing or laser cutting.
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[0056] When the flat-knitted fabric is manufactured directly as a textile tube by a machine, it is even possible to manufacture a one-piece athletic jacket by knitting a separate tube in each case for the two sleeves and the torso, and joining or knitting together these tubes for the shoulder area of the athletic jacket directly by the machine itself.
[0057] For example, vests as worn for golfing and illustrated in
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[0061] Alternatively, such a knitted pants leg may initially be turned inside out, with its inner side facing outwardly, and subsequently pulled over a molded body. A polyurethane film may subsequently be adhesively bonded to the double Raschel knitwear from the outside by wrapping the film around the molded body. This is followed by the knitted fabric for the insulation, and lastly, the inner lining. At the conclusion, the outer side is turned to the inner side, and a finished pants leg is obtained from a laminate design. This single, one-piece flat-knitted fabric laminate is joined by just one seam 28 along the middle of the seat, from the waist down to the crotch, to form pants. In the front, a zipper 18 or a Velcro fastener 19 is inserted along the edges of the two flaps 27 that are still exposed; of course, button closures or snap button closures may also be used.
[0062] The method for manufacturing such a garment is described in detail below, using a ski jacket as an example. For manufacturing the outer shell the basic pattern parts, i.e., their contours, are initially determined in standardized form by CAD. These contours remain unchanged, even when the structure or the design of the knitted fabric is altered. The specific structure of the knitted fabric may be selected from a number of various predefined structures. The thread design of these structures determines the stretchability and function of the flat-knitted fabric, and different structures may be placed within the knitted pattern parts. The fibers to be used are determined, for example those with a two-tone color effect, using a mixture of polyester fibers and cationically dyed fibers. For example, five different cutting pattern parts are then determined, which are then assembled by software to form a jacket in 3D. These parts may now be defined for various jacket sizes by reducing and enlarging (nesting). These data are used to control a flat knitting machine, preferably a flat knitting machine from Karl Mayer RDPJ having a double-needle bed. These machines can also knit tubes without seams, although the description which follows is limited to flat-knitted parts. The piece goods or flat fabric manufactured on the machine are/is made permanently waterproof using a conventional process. The knit fabrics may optionally be colored with a water-free dye (dry dye coloration). The knitted fabric for the outer shell is then laminated with an elastic polyurethane film that has better stretchability than the knitted fabric. This film, preferably a polyurethane film, has an adequate moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR) of 10K MVTR or higher. The cutting pattern pieces are cut out from the laminate made of flat-knitted fabric and the film thus adhesively bonded. On the individual cutting pattern pieces, a knitted fabric or mesh fabric made of fleecy thread is applied to the polyurethane film by gluing at selected points or over the entire surface. Lastly, the inner lining to be stitched on is placed on this thermally insulating layer. The inner lining is produced from polyester fiber, optionally with a wool component, on a circular knitting machine. The inner lining is less durable than the knitted fabric for the outer shell, but is stretchable. The inner lining is made moisture-transporting with a specialized treatment (wicking treatment), so that it subsequently transports the perspiration and bodily fluid from the skin side to the opposite outer side by capillary action. The inner lining is mounted on the knitted fabric for the thermal insulation with tacking stitches in order to maintain the stretchability of the overall laminate and prevent migration of the fibers. Care is taken that the stretching directions of all laminate parts are the same in order to achieve maximum stretchability, which is ensured by the structure of the knit fabrics. Lastly, the cutting pattern pieces are cut out as described above and sewn together. All seams are sealed with strips, so that 100% water-tightness is achieved, and also the wind is reliably deterred while still allowing the laminate to breathe.
[0063] The garments as presented result in noticeably less limitation of mobility of the wearer compared to those previously known. The garments are hardly noticed during body movements, and feel like a second skin, in a manner of speaking, as if one were wearing just a knitted pullover or a T-shirt. For this reason they provide greatly increased wearing comfort. In particular in the design as a ski jacket or cross-country skiing jacket for the unhindered reaching-out arm movements for poling, or as a golf jacket for making unhindered clean swings when hitting the golf ball, or, for example, as a jacket for jumping riders, who must stretch both arms forward during each jump, a new dimension of freedom of movement is offered which has not been known before. As an important production engineering aspect, the garments are made up of fewer, specifically adapted parts. These parts are assembled with fewer seams than has been necessary with previous materials. The flat-knit fabrics offer tremendous freedom in designing the strength, structure, composition, and the specific properties of the parts. The flat-knitted webs manufactured in a programmed manner by the machines may be precisely adapted or programmed to the desired properties. Each machine line may be programmed and operated with separate threads and stitch patterns, resulting in a large variety of patterns of flat-knitted fabrics, which are variable over the course of the knitting. Manufacturing the flat-knitted fabric is significantly more flexible than manufacturing woven fabric patterns, and the garments require fewer seams for assembly from such knit fabric parts. The manufacturing process is thus greatly simplified with regard to design and function, and allows many different combinations of design and function, based on the structure of the flat-knitted fabric. Certain areas in the flat-knitted parts to be assembled may be adapted to specific requirements, such as providing in some locations a different structure, a different strength and stress resistance, or increased vapor permeability for breathing. However, the garments still provide similar or even better thermal insulation than woven garments, and have overall water vapor permeability. Particularly noteworthy is the advantage that such garments have significantly less mass, and are thus much lighter than those made of conventional fabrics. A ski jacket sewn together from flat-knitted parts weighs approximately 1000 grams to 1500 grams, while a comparable cloth ski jacket weighs 1500 grams to 2500 grams. On average, a weight reduction of approximately 30% compared to conventional ski jackets is achieved. It is also naturally understood that such a jacket may be provided with all types of pockets and other features in a conventional manner.
LIST OF REFERENCE NUMERALS
[0064] 1 individual flat-knitted fabric thread [0065] 2 knitting eyelet [0066] 3 flat-knitted fabric laminate [0067] 4 flat-knitted fabric as outer shell of the garment [0068] 5 polyurethane film [0069] 6 knitted fabric or mesh fabric as a thermal insulation layer [0070] 7 inner lining [0071] 8 athletic jacket [0072] 9 flat-knitted fabric laminate piece for the back [0073] 10 hood [0074] 11 flat-knitted fabric laminate piece for right front part [0075] 12 flat-knitted fabric laminate piece for left front part [0076] 13 sleeve cuffs [0077] 14 edges at the sleeve cuffs for the hole edges on the torso piece [0078] 15 hole edges of the holes for the sleeves [0079] 16 seams for front and rear parts of the torso piece [0080] 17 free edges of the front parts [0081] 18 zipper [0082] 19 Velcro fastener [0083] 20 seams for sleeve cuffs [0084] 21 seams for armhole edges 15 [0085] 22 seams for shoulder area of the torso piece [0086] 23 rear side of pants [0087] 24 front side of pants [0088] 25 lateral seam along the pants legs [0089] 26 pants legs of the one-piece pants [0090] 27 extending flap at the top of the pants legs of the one-piece pants [0091] 28 seam along the middle of the seat of the one-piece pants [0092] 29 golf vest [0093] 30 location of particular restriction by a conventional riding jacket [0094] 31 cooling slits in the front sleeves