PROCESS FOR STRAIGHTENING KERATIN FIBRES WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UREA AND/OR A UREA DERIVATIVE AND A POLYMERIC THICKENER

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more compounds chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives, (b) one or more polymeric thickeners chosen from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners or anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for straightening keratin fibres. Finally the invention relates to a process for straightening keratin fibres.

Claims

1.-20. (canceled)

21. A process for straightening keratin fibers, comprising: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one compound chosen from urea or urea derivatives, present in at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (b) at least one polymeric thickener chosen from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or anionic polymeric associative thickeners, wherein the anionic polymeric associative thickener comprises at least one acrylic or methacrylic unit; and (ii) raising the temperature of the keratin fibers via a heating tool, to a temperature ranging from about 100 to about 250 C.

22. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one compound (a) is chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II) below, or their salts or hydrates thereof: ##STR00027## wherein: R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from: (i) a hydrogen atom or (ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, C.sub.1-C.sub.5 lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkoxy radical, a C.sub.6-C.sub.18 aryl radical, or a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from hydroxyl, (di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)(alkyl)amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C.sub.6-C.sub.18 aryl, carboxamide, or N-methylcarboxamide; with the proviso that when R1, R2, and R3 are each a hydrogen atom, R4 may be a radical chosen from carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylcarbonyl,acetyl, (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkoxycarbonyl, methoxycarbonyl, ethoxycarbonyl, COCHCHCOOH, phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl, or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl; with the proviso that when R1 and R3 are each a hydrogen atom, R2 may be chosen from a hydrogen atom or methyl or ethyl radical, and R4 may be an acetyl radical; with the proviso that when R1 and R2 are each a hydrogen atom, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole, or maleimide ring; R1 and R2 and also R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring; R5 and R6, independently of each other, are chosen from: (iii) a hydrogen atom or (iv) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, C.sub.1-C.sub.5 lower alkyl, acyl, or alkenyl radical, a C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkoxy radical, a C.sub.6-C.sub.18 aryl radical, or a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C.sub.6-C.sub.18 aryl, carboxamide, or N-methylcarboxamide; and A is chosen from CH.sub.2CH.sub.2, CHCH, CH.sub.2CO, CONH, CHN, COCO, CHOHCHOH, (HOOC)CHCH, CHOHCO, CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2, CH.sub.2NHCO, CHC(CH.sub.3)CO, NHCONH, CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CO, CH.sub.2N(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2, NHCH.sub.2NH, COCH(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2, COCH.sub.2CO, CONHCO, COCH(COOH)CH.sub.2, COCHC(COOH), COCHC(CH.sub.3), COC(NH.sub.2)CH, COC(CH.sub.3)N, COCHCH, COCHN, or CONCH.

23. The process according to claim 22, wherein the at least one compound (a) chosen from compounds of formula (I) is: urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea, benzylurea, N-carbamoylmaleamide, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, 1,2,4-triazol-4-ylurea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate, ethyl allophanate, acetylurea, hydroxyethyleneurea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropylurea, cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea, ethyl-3-propylurea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea, benzylurea, or mixtures thereof.

24. The process according to claim 22, wherein the at least one compound (a) chosen from compounds of formula (II) is: parabanic acid, 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1-methyluracil, 3-methyluracil, 5-methyluracil, 1,3-dimethyluracil, 5-azauracil, 6-azauracil, 5-fluorouracil, 6-fluorouracil, 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil, 5-aminouracil, 6-aminouracil, 6-amino-1-methyluracil, 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil, 4-chlorouracil, 5-chlorouracil, 5,6-dihydrouracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil, 2-imidazolidone, 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one, 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine, 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one, hydantoin, 1-methylhydantoin, 5-methylhydantoin, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 5-ethylhydantoin, 5-n-propylhydantoin, 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1-allylhydantoin, 1-aminohydantoin, hydantoin-5-acetic acid, 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, 1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one, 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine, urazole, 4-methylurazole, orotic acid, dihydroxyorotic acid, 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, barbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid, cyanuric acid, 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone, 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, 6-azathymine, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, alloxan monohydrate, or mixtures thereof.

25. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one compound (a) is chosen from urea or hydroxyethylurea.

26. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one compound (a) is present in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one compound (a) is present in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is water-soluble or water-dispersible at a pH of 7 and at room temperature (25 C.).

29. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from: (i) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; (ii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit; or (iii) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

30. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from nonionic or cationic associative thickening polymers, celluloses, and polyurethanes.

31. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprising at least one acrylic or methacrylic unit.

32. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickeners and comprises at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C.sub.10-C.sub.30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

33. The process according to claim 32, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprising: at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type represented by formula (VIII): ##STR00028## wherein R.sup.1 is chosen from H or CH.sub.3; and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C.sub.10-C.sub.30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type represented by formula (IX): ##STR00029## wherein R.sup.1 is chosen from H or CH.sub.3, and R.sup.2 is a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl radical.

34. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is chosen from those comprising at least one (meth)acrylic monomer bearing at least one sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

35. The process according to claim 21, wherein the at least one polymeric thickener (b) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

36. The process according to claim 21, further comprising at least one additional polymeric thickener.

37. The process according to claim 21, further comprising at least one surfactant.

38. The process according to claim 21, further comprising at least one fatty substance.

39. The process according to claim 21, wherein the heating tool is an iron.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0536] Compositions 1 to 2 for straightening keratin fibres according to the invention are prepared, along with a control composition not containing any thickener according to the invention. The formulations are indicated in Table I (the amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition).

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE I Weight % of active Composition Compound material Control Urea 10% Water qs 100% 1 Urea 10% Cetythydroxyethylcelluose.sup.(a) 1% Water qs 100% 2 Urea 10% SMDI/polyethylene glycol 8.5% polymer bearing decyl end groups, as a water-glycol solution.sup.(b) Water qs 100%

[0537] (a) The cetylhydroxyethylcellulose used is sold under the name Polysurf 67CS by the company Ashland.

[0538] (b) the SMDI/polyethylene glycol polymer bearing decyl end groups, as a water-glycol solution, used is sold under the name Aculyn 44 by the company Rhm & Haas.

[0539] Compositions 1 and 2 and the control composition are applied to locks of moderately curly hair (curliness level 3 according to the article Shape variability and classification of human hair, Roland De La Mettrie et al., Human Biology, 2007, vol. 79, No. 3, pages 265-281) according to the following protocol:

[0540] The keratin fibres are prewashed with a shampoo.

[0541] Each composition is applied to a separate wet lock. The excess product is then removed by rubbing dry.

[0542] The locks are then predried with a hairdryer. A straightening iron is then applied slowly along the locks twice in succession at a temperature of 210 C. (for about 1 minute). The locks are then shampooed and are finally dried using a hairdryer.

[0543] The Applicant finds that the straightening of the hair for the two compositions according to the invention and the control composition is persistent.

[0544] On the other hand, the Applicant finds that the working qualities in terms of ease of distribution onto the head of hair, the ease of blow-drying and the ease of passage of .sup.-flat tongs are greater in the case of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention relative to the control composition.

[0545] Furthermore, the Applicant finds that compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention afford the hair greater sheen and cosmeticity than the control composition.

EXAMPLE 2

[0546] Composition 3 for straightening keratin fibres according to the invention is prepared, along with a control composition not containing any thickener according to the invention. The formulations are indicated in Table II (the amounts are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition).

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE II Weight % of active Composition Compound material Control Urea 5% Water qs 100% 3 Urea 5% Crosslinked acrylic acid/alkyl 1% acrylate polymer.sup.(a) Water qs 100%

[0547] (a) The crosslinked acrylic acid; alkyl acrylate polymer used is sold under the name Pemulen TR-2 Polymer by the company Lubrizol.

[0548] Composition 3 and the control composition are applied to locks of moderately curly hair (curliness level 3 according to the article Shape variability and classification of human hair, Roland De La Mettrie et al., Human Biology, 2007, vol. 79, No. 3, pages 265-281) according to the following protocol:

[0549] The keratin fibres are prewashed with a shampoo.

[0550] Each composition is applied to a separate wet lock. The excess product is then removed by rubbing dry.

[0551] The locks are then predried with a hairdryer. A straightening iron is then applied slowly along the locks twice in succession at a temperature of 210 C. (for about 1 minute). The locks are then shampooed and are finally dried using a hairdryer. The Applicant finds that the straightening of the hair for composition 3 according to the invention and the control composition is persistent.

[0552] On the other hand, the Applicant finds that the working qualities in terms of ease of distribution onto the head of hair, the ease of blow-drying and the ease of passage of flat tongs are greater in the case of composition 3 according to the invention relative to the control composition.

[0553] Furthermore, the Applicant finds that composition 3 according to the invention affords the hair greater sheen and cosmeticity than the control composition.