COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYSACCHARIDE ALKYL ETHER AND INCOMPATIBLE OILS AND METHOD EMPLOYING IT

Abstract

A subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether comprising at least two different monosaccharide units, each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a C.sub.1-C.sub.24, preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.10, alkyl chain, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil, at least one second oil, incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile fluorinated oils, or their combinations, optionally at least one non-volatile third oil, different from the first oil or oils and different from the second oil or oils, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, or their mixtures, the (polysaccharide alkyl ether/polysaccharide alkyl ether+first oil(s)+if appropriate third oil(s))*100 ratio by weight varying from 10% to 32%. The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring, in particular for the lips, which the abovementioned composition is applied.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether comprising at least two different monosaccharide units, each unit comprising at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a C.sub.1-C.sub.24 alkyl chain, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil, at least one second oil, incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile fluorinated oils, or their combinations, optionally at least one non-volatile third oil, different from the first oil or oils, from the second oil or oils, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, or their mixtures, wherein a (polysaccharide alkyl ether/polysaccharide alkyl ether+first oil(s)+if appropriate third oil(s))*100 ratio by weight is from 10% to 32%.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the monosaccharide rings are selected from the group consisting of mannose, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose and arabinose.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum chosen from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth and their mixtures.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl chain is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.5, radicals.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide alkyl ether is ethyl guar with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of polysaccharide alkyl ether varies from 2% to 16% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil is chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or diesters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising 1 or 2 ether functional groups; aromatic mono- or diesters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters comprising less than 60 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups; vegetable oils; and their mixtures.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil(s) represents from 20% to 55% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (polysaccharide alkyl ether/polysaccharide alkyl ether+first oil(s)+if appropriate third oil(s))*100 ratio by weight is from 10% to 25%.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone second oil(s) incompatible with the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils, non-volatile phenylated silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, and their combinations.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of non-volatile silicone second oil(s) represents from 20% to 60% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone third oil, different from the first oil or oils, different from the second oil or oils, compatible with the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil or oils, chosen from: the first oils, in so far as they are compatible with the second silicone or fluorinated oil or oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils, chosen in particular from non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or diesters comprising more than 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters comprising at least 60 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups, and also their mixtures; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid; or polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated. non-volatile silicone oils, different from the second oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile phenylated silicone oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of third oil(s) represents from 5% to 40% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil or their mixtures.

15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the content of additional volatile oil(s) represents from 5% to 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one wax.

17. The composition according to claim 16, wherein the content of wax varies from 0.5% to 15% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, it comprises further comprising at least one compound which is pasty at 20 C. and atmospheric pressure.

19. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the content of pasty compound varies from 0.5% to 15% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises less than 5% by weight of water with respect to the weight of the composition.

21. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one colouring substance chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures.

22. A method for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

[0433] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00001 Composition A Composition 1 Phase Ingredient (comparative) (invention) A Octyldodecanol 48.8 45.6 Ethyl guar* 3.2 6.4 B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.1 2.1 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 40 40 dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Ethyl guar/octyldodecanol ratio 6.15% 12.3% by weight** *Ethyl guar, prepared in accordance with the teaching of EP 708 114, in particular according to Example 3 or Example 4. **calculation: [content of ethyl guar/(content of ethyl guar + octyldodecanol)] * 100

1 Preparation of the Compositions:

[0434] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0435] The ethyl guar is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol, at 105 C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0436] Once the ethyl guar has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture is added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0437] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105 C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0438] The resulting mixture is poured under hot conditions into the conditioning jar.

[0439] 2. Evaluation of the Compositions:

Protocol for Measuring the Wear Property:

[0440] The wear-property index of the deposited layer obtained with each composition is determined according to the measurement protocol described below:

[0441] A support (40 mm70 mm rectangle) consisting of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on polyethylene film sold under the name Blenderme Ref. FH5000-55113 by 3M Sant) bonded to a layer of polyethylene foam which is adhesive on the face opposite that to which the adhesive plaster is fixed (foam layer sold under the name RE 40X70EP3 from Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind.) is prepared.

[0442] The colour L*0a*0b*0 of the support, on the acrylic coating face side, is measured using a Minolta CR300 colourimeter.

[0443] The support thus prepared is preheated on a hotplate maintained at a temperature of 40 C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 C.1 C.

[0444] While leaving the support on the hotplate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (that is to say to the surface of the acrylic coating), spreading it out using a brush in order to obtain a deposited layer of the composition of approximately 15 m, and then drying is allowed to take place for 10 minutes.

[0445] After drying, the L*a*b* colour of the film thus obtained is measured.

[0446] The colour difference E1 between the colour of the film with respect to the colour of the bare support is then determined by the following relationship:

E1=(L*Lo*)2+(a*ao*)2+(b*bo*)2

[0447] The support is subsequently bonded via its adhesive face (adhesive face of the foam layer) to an anvil 20 mm in diameter and equipped with a screw pitch.

[0448] A test specimen of the support/deposited layer assembly is subsequently cut out using a hollow punch 18 mm in diameter. The anvil is subsequently screwed onto a press (Statif Manuel Imada SV-2 from Someco) equipped with a tensile testing device (Imada DPS-20 from Someco).

[0449] A strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long is drawn on a sheet of white photocopier paper with a basis weight of 80 g/m.sup.2, a first line is marked out at 2 cm from the edge of the sheet and then a second line is marked out at 5 cm from the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; next, a first mark and a second mark, located in the strip at the reference points respectively 8 cm and 16 cm from the second line, are applied.

[0450] The sheet of white paper is placed on the base of the press and then the test specimen placed on the box of the strip of paper is pressed at a pressure of approximately 300 g/cm.sup.2 exerted for 30 seconds. The press is then opened and the test specimen is again placed just after the second line (thus next to the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g/cm.sup.2 is again exerted, and the sheet of paper is displaced, in a rectilinear manner as soon as contact is made, with a speed of 1 cm/s over the entire length of the strip.

[0451] After removing the test specimen, a portion of the deposited layer has transferred onto the paper.

[0452] The L*, a*, b* colour of the deposited layer remaining on the test specimen is then measured. The colour difference E2 between the colour of the deposited layer remaining on the test specimen with respect to the colour of the bare support is then determined by the following relationship:

E2=(L*Lo*)2+(a*ao*)2+(b*bo*)2

[0453] The wear-property index of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio:

100E2/E1

[0454] The measurement is carried out on 6 supports in succession and the wear-property value corresponds to the mean of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports.

[0455] Viscosity:

[0456] The viscosity at 25 C. of the compositions was evaluated according to the protocol described above.

[0457] Stability:

[0458] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by storing the composition for 72 hours at 20 C. and by observing whether separation of the oily phase and/or sedimentation of the pigments and/or pearlescent agents takes place.

Gloss:

[0459] For certain compositions, the gloss of the deposited layer obtained on the lips with composition 6 has been evaluated using a Polka SEI-M-0216-Polk-02 polarimetric camera and a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0, as described in Application FR 2 829 344. The gloss is evaluated immediately after application, and 1 hour after application of the formula. The formulation is applied to the lips of a panel of six subjects exhibiting thick and thin lips.

[0460] For other compositions, the gloss of the deposited layers which are obtained with the compositions has been evaluated by applying the composition to the lips, immediately after application and 1 hour after application.

3. Results:

[0461]

TABLE-US-00002 Composition A Composition 1 comparative invention Appearance Release of silicone at the surface, Homogeneous, no exudation of non-homogeneous oil Viscosity Not measured (non-stable 15 Pa .Math. s formula) Stability Non-stable Stable Deposited layer Not done (non-stable formula) Homogeneous, non-tacky, does not dry out the lips, without feeling of tightness Gloss and wear Not done (non-stable formula) Good gloss which lasts over time property of the gloss Wear property of the Not done (non-stable formula) Non-transfer of the colour colour

[0462] It is possible to prepare a composition starting from composition 1 comprising 10% by weight of polyethylene wax with respect to the weight of the composition, by withdrawing from the sum of the contents of ethyl guar and of octyldodecanol, while keeping the (ethyl guar/ethyl guar+octyldodecanol)*100 ratio by weight constant.

[0463] The wax would be introduced with the remaining amount of octyldodecanol, at a temperature greater than its melting point.

Example 2

[0464] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00003 Composition B Composition 2 Phase Ingredients comparative invention A Octyldodecanol q.s. q.s. Ethyl guar* 4.2 12.6 B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.1 2.1 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 30 30 dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Ethyl guar/octyldodecanol ratio 6.8% 20.3% by weight** *Ethyl guar, prepared in accordance with the teaching of EP 708 114, in particular according to Example 3 or Example 4. **calculation: [content of ethyl guar/(content of ethyl guar + octyldodecanol)] * 100

[0465] The preparation protocol followed is the same as for the preceding example.

Results:

[0466]

TABLE-US-00004 Composition B Composition 2 comparative invention Appearance Homogeneous, no exudation of Homogeneous, no exudation of oil oil Viscosity 9 Pa .Math. s 19 Pa .Math. s Stability Stable Stable Deposited layer Homogeneous, non-tacky, does Homogeneous, non-tacky, does not dry out the lips, without not dry out the lips, without feeling of tightness feeling of tightness Gloss and wear Very good gloss Very good gloss property of the gloss Wear property of the Transfer of the colour Non-transfer of the colour colour

Example 3

[0467] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00005 Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Phase Ingredients 3 4 5 6 A Octyldodecanol 34.7 20 31.2 20 Coco-caprylate/caprate 14.7 29.4 11.2 22.4 (Cetiol LC, BASF) Ethyl guar* 12.6 12.6 9.6 9.6 B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.1 2.1 2.1 2.1 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 30 30 40 40 dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Ethyl guar/octyldodecanol + coco- 20.3% 20.3% 18.5% 18.5% caprylate/caprate ratio by weight** *Ethyl guar, prepared in accordance with the teaching of EP 708 114, in particular according to Example 3 or Example 4. **calculation: [content of ethyl guar/(content of ethyl guar + octyldodecanol + coco-caprylate/caprate)] * 100

Preparation of the Compositions:

[0468] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0469] The ethyl guar is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol, and the coco-caprate/caprylate, at 105 C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0470] Once the ethyl guar has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture is added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0471] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105 C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0472] The resulting mixture is poured under hot conditions into the conditioning jar.

Results

[0473]

TABLE-US-00006 Composition 3 Composition 4 Composition 5 Composition 6 Appearance Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, no exudation of no exudation of no exudation of no exudation of oil oil oil oil Viscosity 20 Pa .Math. s 21 Pa .Math. s 19 Pa .Math. s 20 Pa .Math. s Stability Stable Stable Stable Stable Deposited layer Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, Homogeneous, non-tacky, does non-tacky, does non-tacky, does non-tacky, does not dry out the not dry out the not dry out the not dry out the lips, without lips, without lips, without lips, without feeling of feeling of feeling of feeling of tightness tightness tightness tightness Gloss and wear Good gloss Good gloss Good gloss Good gloss property of the gloss Wear property of Non-transfer of Non-transfer of Non-transfer of Non-transfer of the colour the colour the colour the colour the colour