Hair shaping process using fatty substances, non-silicone polymers or surfactants

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the steps consisting in: a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants, b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a pressure ranging from 50,000 to 250,000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves, the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin fibers, step a) taking place prior to step c).

Claims

1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of: a) applying to said keratin fibers an aqueous composition containing at least one surfactant wherein the aqueous composition is free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds, b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves wherein the duration of step c) ranges from | second to 60 minutes, at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of water in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves, the water in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating water present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin fibers, step a) taking place prior to step c).

2. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which the pressure ranges from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa.

3. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which said at least one surfactant is chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

4. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which step a) is prior to step b).

5. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which step b) is performed by applying at least one torsion, traction or compression constraint on the keratin materials.

6. The process as claimed in claim 1, comprising an additional pretreatment step d) and/or an additional post-treatment step e), performing on the keratin materials a standard treatment chosen from oxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based on one or more reducing agents, or based on one or more alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a mask and/or a shampoo.

7. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which the composition from step a) comprises from 20% to 99.9% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

(1) The invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed description of nonlimiting implementation examples thereof, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:

(2) FIGS. 1 to 5 schematically and partially show embodiments of treating devices according to the invention, and

(3) FIGS. 6, 7 and 9 to 13 show locks of hair that have undergone various cosmetic treatments according to the process of the invention,

(4) FIG. 8 schematically and partially shows an embodiment according to the invention.

(5) FIG. 1 shows a treating device 100 comprising a hand-held piece 3 comprising a chamber in which is received the hair to be treated, connected via a hose 2 to a base station 1 comprising a microwave generator.

(6) The hose 2 may comprise a waveguide.

(7) FIG. 2 shows a detail of FIG. 1.

(8) The microwaves 70 conveyed into the hand-held piece 3 by the waveguide 2 make it possible to heat the liquid solvent present on the hair to be treated and to change it into the form of solvent in vapor form. In this embodiment, a device for applying a mechanical tension and a lock of hair (not shown) are present in the hand-held piece 3 and the hair is exposed both to the microwaves and to the solvent in vapor form 80. A temperature detector 150 may be present in order to measure the temperature of the treated lock of hair and a control system, for example a microprocessor system, may make it possible to interrupt or modify the emission of the microwaves in the event of a detected temperature being above a predefined threshold.

(9) FIG. 3 shows an embodiment in which the treating chamber is formed by closing tongs constituting all or part of the hand-held piece 3. The tongs make it possible, when open, to introduce between the arms one or more locks of hair to be treated. Each arm defines, for example, half of the chamber.

(10) The microwaves may be emitted by only one or by both arms of the tongs.

(11) A sensor (not shown) may inform the treating device regarding the fact that the tongs are closed and the emission of the microwaves may be conditioned to the detection of this closure.

(12) The mechanical tension applied to the hair may be a traction so as to straighten it.

(13) In all the preceding examples, the means for conveying the microwaves may comprise an emitting antenna 10 and a receiving antenna 15, as illustrated in FIG. 4.

(14) FIG. 5 moreover shows a lock of hair M present in a treating chamber of the hand-held piece 3. The chamber is microwave-leaktight and comprises, to this end, for example, electrically conductive foam seals 200 which reflect the microwave radiation where the hair leaves the chamber.

(15) In one variant, not shown, the microwave generator 1 may, for example, be present in the chamber and/or the device for applying a mechanical tension.

(16) FIG. 8 shows an embodiment in which a lock of hair M is present in a volume delimited by a wall 300 of a material, said material allowing the microwaves 70 to pass through the wall, and containing the generated vapor 80.

(17) The contents of the vapor 80 advantageously allow the hair M to be moistened during the treatment.

(18) Said material comprises and in particular consists of a cellophane film. In one variant, the material may be porous and in particular may be a mesh.

Steps D) and E)

(19) The process according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional pretreatment step d) and/or one additional post-treatment step e), these steps consisting in performing on the keratin materials at least one standard treatment chosen from oxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based on one or more reducing agents, for example thiol reducing agents, or based on one or more alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a care treatment, a mask and/or a shampoo.

(20) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) d) are free of fatty substances.

(21) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) e) are free of fatty substances.

(22) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) d) are free of non-silicone polymer.

(23) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) e) are free of non-silicone polymer.

(24) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) d) are free of surfactant.

(25) Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition containing at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) e) are free of surfactant.

(26) Step d) takes place before steps a), b) and c).

(27) Step e) takes place after steps a), b) and c).

(28) When an additional pretreatment step d) and an additional post-treatment step e) are performed, these steps may be identical or different, and are preferably different.

(29) According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional step is a pretreatment step d).

(30) When the additional step is a step comprising permanent reshaping based on one or more reducing agents, then the step may be followed by a step comprising the application to the hair of at least one fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

(31) Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) d) are free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.

(32) Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) e) are free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.

(33) The duration of step d) may vary according to the desired shaping performance qualities and the nature of the hair, for example.

(34) The composition used in step a) and the optional compositions used in the additional steps d) and e) may be applied while the hair is present in the chamber, for example by means of a suitable application system. The application system comprises, for example, a pad, a comb, one or more dispensing orifices or a spray nozzle, arranged in the chamber or outside it, for example on the path of the hair leaving or entering the chamber.

(35) The composition used in step d) may be subjected to the microwave radiation.

(36) The treatment device may comprise a sensor that is sensitive to a characteristic of the hair, for example the color, the mechanical strength, the surface state or the humidity, and the treating device may control at least one parameter of the treatment as a function of the characteristic thus detected, for example the microwave energy, the solvent temperature, the duration of the treatment and/or the mechanical constraint exerted.

(37) According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a hair treatment device for performing the process as defined above, comprising: a device for applying a mechanical tension to the hair, a microwave generator, at least one composition comprising at least one substance chosen from fatty substances, silicone polymers and surfactants.

(38) All the characteristics stated with regard to the above process apply to the treating device.

(39) Thus, the treating device may, for example, define a treating chamber forming a shield to microwaves.

(40) All the compositions used in the process according to the invention may be, independently of each other, in the form of a thickened or unthickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a mousse.

(41) The examples that follow are given as nonlimiting illustrations of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Fatty Substance

(42) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the following manner.

(43) The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in accordance with the invention comprising at least one fatty substance is then applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.

(44) The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

(45) The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane) or not, and is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 15 minutes with a power of 300 W.

(46) The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on the case.

(47) The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

(48) TABLE-US-00001 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents- product as is) Cetearyl alcohol (Ecorol 68/50 P from 5 Ecogreen Oleochemicals) Cetyl esters 1 (Crodamol MS-PA-(MH) from Croda) Behentrimonium chloride 1 (Varisoft BT 85 (flaked) from Evonik Goldschmidt) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 1.5 (and) cetrimonium chloride (Xiameter MEM-8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning) Water qs 100

(49) This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight), the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(50) The result is reported in FIG. 6.

Example 2: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Fatty Substance

(51) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueous composition applied here is that detailed in the following table.

(52) TABLE-US-00002 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents-INCI name product as is) Beeswax 1.5 (White beeswax GR B 889 from Koster Keunen) Mineral oil (and) microcrystalline wax 6.5 (and) paraffin (Vaseline Blanche Codex 236 from Aiglon) Mineral oil 16 (Blandol from Sonneborn) Cetearyl alcohol (Ecorol 68/50 P from 2 Ecogreen Oleochemicals) Propylene glycol USP/EP from Dow 5 Chemical Water qs 100

(53) This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(54) The result is reported in FIG. 7.

Example 3: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Non-Silicone Polymer

(55) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the following manner.

(56) The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in accordance with the invention comprising at least one non-silicone polymer is then applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.

(57) The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

(58) The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane), and is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 5 minutes with a power of 450 W.

(59) The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on the case.

(60) The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

(61) TABLE-US-00003 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is) Potato starch modified (Structure Solanace 0.3 from Akzo Nobel) Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.45 from Lubrizol) Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar HP 105 from 0.25 Rhodia) Polyquaternium-4 (Celquat LOR from 0.3 Akzo Nobel) Behentrimonium chloride (Varisoft BT 85 0.5 (flaked) from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cetyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium methosulfate (and) Quaternium-33 0.1 (Cutissential Behenyl 18MEA-PA-(MH) from Croda) Propylene glycol (Propylene glycol 2.5 USP/EP from Dow Chemical) 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol (Mexanyl 0.01 GZ from Chimex) Quaternium-87 (Varisoft W 575 PG N 0.05 from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid from Dow 6 Corning) PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone 0.5 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) 0.25 cetrimonium chloride Triethanolamine 0.6 Water qs 100

(62) This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight), the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(63) The result is reported in FIG. 9.

Example 4: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Non-Silicone Polymer

(64) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous composition detailed in the following table.

(65) TABLE-US-00004 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is) Methylisothiazolinone (Neolone 950 Preservative 0.1 from Rohm & Haas (Dow Chemical)) Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol from Dr. 0.4 Straetmans) Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 1.4 (Pemulen TR-1 Polymer from Lubrizol) VP/VA copolymer (Luviskol VA 64 W from BASF) 10 VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer 12 (Copolymer 845-O from ISP (Ashland)) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (Eumulgin HRE 40 1 from Cognis (BASF)) Niacinamide (Niacinamide USP from Lonza) 0.1 Panthenol (Dexpanthenol from Daiichi Fine 0.1 Chemical) Water qs 100

(66) This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(67) The result is reported in FIG. 10.

Example 5: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Non-Silicone Polymer

(68) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous composition detailed in the following table.

(69) TABLE-US-00005 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is) Ethanolamine (Monoethanolamine Care from BASF) 0.47 Oleth-30 (Eumulgin O 30 from Cognis (BASF)) 4.5 Laureth-12 (Rewopal 12 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 6.3 Deceth-5 (Eumulgin BL 589 from Cognis (BASF)) 4.5 Deceth-3 (Eumulgin BL 309 from Cognis (BASF)) 17.2 Oleyl alcohol (HD Ocenol 80/85V from Cognis 1.8 (BASF)) Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA (Amidet A15/LAO 4 55 from KAO) Hexadimethrine chloride (Mexomere PO from 3 Chimex) Polyquatemium-22 (Merquat 280 Polymer from 3 Nalco (Lubrizol)) Glycerol (Glycerin 99.8% PF from Emery 3 Oleochemicals) Ammonium thiolactate (Ammonium thiolactate 58% 0.8 (50% ATL) from Bruno Bock) Water qs 100

(70) This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(71) The result is reported in FIG. 11.

Example 6: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Surfactant

(72) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the following manner.

(73) The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in accordance with the invention comprising at least one surfactant is then applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.

(74) The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

(75) The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane film), and is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device (Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.5 GHz) for 5 minutes with a power of 450 W.

(76) The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on the case.

(77) The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

(78) TABLE-US-00006 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is) Deceth-3 (Eumulgin BL 309 from 22 Cognis (BASF)) Deceth-5 (Eumulgin BL 589 from 19.5 Cognis (BASF)) Cocamide MIPA (and) isopropanolamine 7.2 (Rewomid V 3203 from Evonik Goldschmidt) Propylene glycol USP/EP 15 (from Dow Chemical) Hexylene glycol from Rhodia 1 Hydroxyethyl oleyl dimonium chloride 3.33 as a 30% aqueous solution Sodium metabisulfite from BASF 0.455 Erythorbic acid from Zhengzou Tuoyang 0.31 Bioengineering Water qs 100

(79) This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight), the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(80) The result is reported in FIG. 12.

Example 7: Process for Durably Curling the Hair Using a Composition Containing at Least One Surfactant

(81) A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueous composition applied here is that detailed in the following table.

(82) TABLE-US-00007 Amount in weight percentage (commercial Constituents product as is) Potato starch modified (Structure Solanace 0.3 from Akzo Nobel) Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer 0.38 from Lubrizol) Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar HP 105 from 0.25 Rhodia) Polyquaternium-4 (Ceresin Wax SP 254P 0.3 from Strahl & Pitsch) Behentrimonium chloride (Varisoft BT 85 0.5 (flaked) from Evonik Goldschmidt) Propylene glycol USP/EP 2.5 (from Dow Chemical) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol 10.6 (Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid from Dow Corning) PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone (Xiameter 0.5 OFX-5220 Fluid from Dow Corning) Water qs 100

(83) This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.

(84) The result is reported in FIG. 13.