Oil-in-water emulsion and cosmetic use thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition of oil-in-water emulsion type comprising: —at least one polyol in a content ranging from 7% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; —water in a content ranging from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; —at least two nonionic surfactants that are different from each other, chosen from a nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one unsaturated ester and of at least one diester of polyglycerol and a nonionic surfactant which is a fatty alcohol with a saturated, linear carbon-based chain containing from 14 to 26 carbon atoms; —at least one wax; —and the mass ratio [total amount of said nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type]/[total amount of said wax] ranges from 0.8 to 2, preferably from 1 to 1.5.

Claims

1. A composition of oil-in-water emulsion type comprising: at least one polyol in a content ranging from 7% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; water in a content ranging from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least two nonionic surfactants that are different from each other, chosen from a nonionic surfactant of ester type comprising i) at least one unsaturated ester of formula (A):
R.sup.1—C(O)—O—R.sup.2  (A) in which: R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 fatty chain, and at least R.sup.1 or R.sup.2 is monounsaturated; ii) at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B):
R.sup.3—C(O)—(O—CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—CH.sub.2)n-O—C(O)—R.sup.4  (B) in which: n=2 to 6 R.sup.3 and R.sup.4 represent, respectively, a saturated, linear or branched C18 to C44 fatty chain, and at least one other nonionic surfactant chosen from C10-C30 fatty alcohols; at least one wax being a mixture of polyglycerolated mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes; and the mass ratio [total amount of said nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type]/[total amount of said wax] ranges from 0.8 to 2.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said polyol(s) are chosen from linear polyols comprising at least two —OH functions and comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

3. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant of ester type comprises at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in which R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 represent, respectively, a C18 to C30 fatty chain; at least one polyglycerol diester of formula (B) in which R.sup.3—C(O)— and R.sup.4 each represent a linear or branched, saturated C20-C34 fatty chain; and cetyl alcohol.

5. The composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it also comprises a diester of a C14-C22 fatty acid with a polyglycerol and/or a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

6. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the nonionic surfactant of ester type is a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type are present in a content of from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant is chosen from triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, monocetyl phosphate, the combination of the monosodium salt of N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, which also comprises at least one oil of formula R.sub.6COOR.sub.5, in which R.sub.6 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R.sub.5 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R.sub.6+R.sub.5≥10.

10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one oil of formula R.sub.6COOR.sub.5 is chosen from myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and behenyl behenate, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) comprise from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total content of from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one gelling agent.

14. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one gelling agent chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition is a stable cosmetic composition.

16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least the application to said materials of a composition as defined according to claim 1.

17. The non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to claim 16, characterized in that it is intended for maintaining and/or improving the moisturization of keratin materials, and/or for improving the biomechanical properties of these said keratin materials.

18. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group of glutamic acid salts, salts of esters of phosphoric acid and of fatty alcohol, and alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type are present in a content of from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the at least one wax is present in a content of from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio [total amount of said nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type]/[total amount of said wax] ranges from 1 to 1.5.

20. The composition according to claim 1, which is a stable cosmetic composition wherein the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total content of from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type are present in a content of from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the at least one wax is present in a content of from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio [total amount of said nonionic surfactant(s) of ester type]/[total amount of said wax] ranges from 1 to 1.5.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Composition in the Form of an Oil-in-Water Emulsion According to the Invention

(1) The composition was prepared according to the following process:

(2) Swell phase A1 at 60° C.

(3) Add phase A2. Dissolve at 70° C.

(4) Heat phase B1 to 70° C. Add B2 before emulsification.

(5) Emulsify B in A.

(6) Add the dilution phase C.

(7) Add the gelling agent D while cooling.

(8) TABLE-US-00001 Active material content/weight percentage relative to the total weight Ingredients of the composition A1 Water 35 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure 0.88 Zea ® from Akzo Nobel) Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 A2 Glycerol 7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 0.2 PF ® from Ajinomoto) 1,3-Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol ® 2 from DuPont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts) Pentylene glycol 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.09 (Natrlquest E30 ® from Innospec Active Chemicals) B1 Mixture of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, 3 polyglyceryl-6 distearate and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax available under the name Emulium Mellifera ® from the company Gattefossé (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol) Behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22 ® from the 1 company BASF) Myristyl/cetyl/stearyl 2 myristate/palmitate/stearate mixture available under the name Crodamol MS-PA ® from the company Croda Mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) plant 2.5 (mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) waxes sold under the name Acticire ® by the company Gattefossé Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.15 Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE ® from BASF) 5 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol C 5C ® from 2 BASF) B2 Tocopherol 0.1 C Water 34.32 D Fragrance 0.3 Acid acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2- 0.96 methylpropanesulfonate copolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I- C13 (available under the name Simulgel 600 ® by SEPPIC)

(9) A composition of oil-in-water emulsion type, which is the subject of the present invention, applied to the skin, forms a film on the skin which shows good resistance in a long-lasting manner, such as for at least 3 hours, and moisturizes the skin while at the same time remaining sparingly tacky and pleasant-feeling (minimized sensation of greasiness).

Example 2

(10) Evaluation of the quality and of the occlusive nature of the film formed by compositions according to the invention, such as that of Example 1 and that of the comparative examples, was performed.

Comparative Example A Outside the Invention

(11) TABLE-US-00002 AM content (weight percentage relative to the total weight Ingredients of the composition) A1 Water 35 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure 0.88 Zea ® from Akzo Nobel) Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 A2 Glycerol 7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 0.2 PF ® from Ajinomoto) 1,3-Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol ® from 2 DuPont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts) Pentylene glycol 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.09 (Natrlquest E30 ® from Innospec Active Chemicals) B1 Mixture of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, 5.5 polyglyceryl-6 distearate and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax available under the name Emulium Mellifera ® from the company Gattefossé (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol) Behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22 ® from the 1 company BASF) Myristyl/cetyl/stearyl 2 myristate/palmitate/stearate mixture available under the name Crodamol MS-PA ® from the company Croda Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.15 Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE ® from BASF) 5 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol C 5C ® from 2 BASF) B2 Tocopherol 0.1 C Water 34.63 D Acid acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2- 0.96 methylpropanesulfonate copolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I- C13 (available under the name Simulgel 600 ® by SEPPIC)

Comparative Example B Outside the Invention

(12) TABLE-US-00003 AM content (weight percentage relative to the total weight Ingredients of the composition) A1 Water 35 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure 0.88 Zea ® from Akzo Nobel) Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 A2 Glycerol 7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 0.2 PF ® from Ajinomoto) 1,3-Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol ® from 2 DuPont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts) Pentylene glycol 3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.09 (Natrlquest E30 ® from Innospec Active Chemicals) B1 Mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) plant 5.5 (mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) waxes sold under the name Acticire ® by the company Gattefossé Behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22 ® from the 1 company BASF) Myristyl/cetyl/stearyl 2 myristate/palmitate/stearate mixture available under the name Crodamol MS-PA ® from the company Croda Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.15 Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE ® from BASF) 5 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol C 5C ® from 2 BASF) B2 Tocopherol 0.1 C Water 34.63 D Acid acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2- 0.96 methylpropanesulfonate copolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I- C13 (available under the name Simulgel 600 ® by SEPPIC)

(13) The compositions of Comparative Examples A and B were prepared according to a preparation method similar to that of Example 1.

(14) Evaluation of the Quality and Homogeneity of the Residual Film Formed after Application of a Composition

(15) The quality and homogeneity of the residual film formed by a composition according to the invention and those of the comparative examples outside the invention were studied under various temperature conditions.

(16) This was performed by observation using a light microscope, with the protocol as described below: Deposition of a 50 μm film using an automatic spreader on a PET film Deposition of the film in an air-conditioned room for 3 hours (4° C., 40° C., room temperature RT) or for 1 hour 30 minutes at 4° C. and then 1 hour 30 minutes at 40° C., and 1 hour 30 minutes at 40° C. and then 1 hour 30 minutes at 4° C. Observation of the film using a light microscope and taking of photographs

(17) The films formed with the compositions of Comparative Examples A and B outside the invention are no longer homogeneous (presence of cracking) and are of poor quality from 1 hour 30 minutes at 40° C.

(18) It was found, surprisingly, that the film formed by the composition of Example 1 according to the invention is of good quality and homogeneous, and that this quality and homogeneity are conserved over time and at elevated temperature; the film is of very good quality and homogeneous (no presence of cracking), whether after 3 hours at 4° C. and at room temperature, or after 3 hours at 40° C.

(19) Surprisingly, the film formed with the composition of Example 1 according to the invention also remains of good quality and homogeneous after 8 hours at 4° C. or at room temperature.

Evaluation of the Occlusive Properties of a Film Formed with the Composition of Example 1 According to the Invention

(20) The efficacy of a film formed with a composition, especially in cream form, for reducing water loss, when it is applied to keratin materials such as the skin, was evaluated quantitatively according to the method described by Sparr et al., 2012. This efficacy is expressed by calculating the specific resistance (SR, m.Math.h.Math.g.sup.−1), which is explained in the article Controlling the hydration of the skin through the application of occluding barrier creams (Emma Sparr et al.; 2012; rsif.royalsocietypublishing.org).

(21) It was shown (Sparr et al. (2012)) how the environmental conditions could be modified by applying a protective cream forming a film with high resistance to water transport, especially via a quantitative mathematical model which predicts the moisturization and the transportation of water into the stratum corneum covered with such a cream film, and an experimental method for measuring the specific resistance to water transport of the films formed with these protective creams was developed.

(22) This characterization method made it possible, firstly, to demonstrate that water-in-oil inverse emulsions usually have a higher SR than the direct emulsions of the prior art (400>SR>200 m.Math.h.Math.g.sup.−1 versus 1>SR>150 m.Math.h.Math.g.sup.−1).

(23) For the purposes of the present invention, it is considered that compositions in oil-in-water emulsion form have a good film-forming effect, i.e. good moisturizing properties, for an SR (specific resistance) of greater than or equal to 100 m.Math.h.Math.g.sup.−1.

(24) The specific resistance values presented below are the means of measurements repeated twice or three times.

(25) The thickness of the film formed with a composition according to the invention was also evaluated.

(26) TABLE-US-00004 Composition 1 according Compositions tested to the invention Dry film thickness (μm) 42 Specific resistance (m .Math. h .Math. g.sup.−1) 148

(27) It was found, surprisingly, that the particular choice of a nonionic surfactant system of ester type combined with a particular wax according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a thin film while at the same time allowing a good specific resistance of the film formed from the composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, but which is not too high, and especially is lower than that of an inverse emulsion and thus allows a less occlusive film.

Example 3

(28) Evaluation of the Biomechanical Properties of the Skin, Such as the Elasticity Under Elevated Humidity and Temperature Conditions after Application of a Composition According to the Invention

(29) A composition according to that of Example 1 of the invention was applied to half-faces of 12 individuals, in an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2. The individuals then remained in a steam bath for 30 minutes (conditions: temperature of 29° C. and 70% relative humidity RH).

(30) The elasticity of the facial skin was observed after the time in the steam bath.

(31) It was found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the elasticity of the skin, and does so after variable temperature and humidity conditions of the environment.