Composition comprising a UV-screening agent, an acrylic polymer and a fatty acid ester of dextrin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic, in particular photoprotective, composition, comprising at least: —one or more particular acrylic polymers —one or more fatty acid esters of dextrin, and —one or more UV-screening agents.

Claims

1. A composition comprising at least: a) 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more polymers comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B): ##STR00005## in which: R.sub.1, independently of one another, is chosen from alkyl or alkylene radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R.sub.1 groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R.sub.1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1: 1; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, b) from 0.1% to 10% relative to the total weight of said composition of one or more fatty acid esters of dextrin, and c) 0.01% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition of one or more UV-screening agents.

2. The composition according to claim 1, in which the fatty acid ester of dextrin corresponds to formula (I): ##STR00006## in which: the radicals R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R—CO—) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 30 with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3 is other than hydrogen, n is an integer between 3 and 150.

3. The composition according to claim 2, in which the weight content of fatty acid ester of dextrin is from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 2, in which the one or more UV-screening agents are chosen from soluble or insoluble organic UV-screening agents, mineral UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1, in which the fatty acid ester of dextrin is chosen from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 5, in which the weight content of fatty acid ester of dextrin is from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, in which the weight content of fatty acid ester of dextrin is from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, in which the one or more UV-screening agents are chosen from soluble or insoluble organic UV-screening agents, mineral UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of the one or more UV-screening agents is from 5% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the polymer a), R.sub.1 is constituted of an alkyl radical.

11. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the polymer a), at least 70% by weight of the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals.

12. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the polymer a), all the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals.

13. The composition according to claim 1, in which, in the polymer a), said weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R.sub.1 group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1.

14. The composition according to claim 1, in which the polymer a) has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mol.

15. The composition according to claim 1, in which the polymer a) has a melting point ranging from 60° C. to 69° C.

16. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of polymer a) is from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

17. The composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least one polar organic solvent.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.1, independently of one another, is chosen from C.sub.16-C.sub.22 alkyl radicals and the fatty acid ester of dextrin is chosen from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to claim 18 wherein in the polymer a), all the R.sub.1 groups are behenyl radicals.

20. A non-therapeutic process for the photoprotection of keratin materials with respect to solar UV radiation, comprising a step of applying a composition according to claim 1 to said keratin materials.

21. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising a step of applying a composition according to claim 1.

22. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising a step of applying a composition according to claim 1 to the surface of said keratin material.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example of Preparation of Polymer 1

(1) Determination of the Molecular Weight by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC):

(2) The sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54° C. for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be totally dissolved in the solvent.

(3) The sample prepared was analysed using two polypore 300×7.5 mm columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

(4) Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons were used for the calibration.

(5) The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights were performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

(6) Determination of the Melting Point by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (or DSC):

(7) This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to standard ASTM E 9672.

(8) Behenyl Acrylate/2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer (Polymer 1):

(9) In a 4-necked flask equipped with side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2′-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added, over the course of 60 minutes at 80° C., to 40 g of isopropanol, with stirring, after having removed the oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen flush for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80° C. for 3 hours. The solvent was then eliminated by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110° C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90° C., a stream of demineralized water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

(10) Molecular weight: Mn=7300 g/mol, Mw=21 000, Mw/Mn=2.8

(11) Melting point: 65° C.

Examples 1 to 4

(12) The following O/W emulsions were prepared:

(13) TABLE-US-00001 1 Phase INCI name (invention) 2 3 4 A BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE DROMETRIZOLE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 TRISILOXANE (MEXORYL XL) HOMOSALATE 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 OCTYL SALICILATE 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 DIETHYLAMINO 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE OCTOCRYLENE 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 ISOHEXADECANE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 SARCOSINATE BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (CERALUTION H from SASOL) DEXTRIN PALMITATE 2.00 5.00 (RHEOPEARL from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) ETHYLENEDIAMINE/STEARYL 2.00 DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER Polymer 1 3.00 3.00 5.00 B GLYCEROL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 SULFONIC ACID TROMETHAMINE 1.80 1.80 1.80 1.80 XANTHAN GUM 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 C DENAT. ALCOHOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Stability (2 months at 45° C.) OK OK OK OK Stability (2 months at 4° C.) OK OK OK Crystal formation in vitro SPF 65.8 +/− 2.4 41.8 +/− 3.5 43.5 +/− 3.1 41.8 +/− 4.7 Non-greasy finish (Score by sensory 12.8 +/− 1.3  5.1 +/− 1.4  6.8 +/− 0.2  5.1 +/− 1.5 expert panel, out of 15; 1 = Greasy finish; 15 = Non-greasy finish)

(14) Protocol for Evaluating the Greasy Finish

(15) The greasy finish is evaluated by a panel of sensory experts made up of 10 individuals. Each composition is applied to the forearm at a dose of 2 mg/cm.sup.2. The product is spread by circular movements until it had penetrated (approximately 30 seconds). The evaluation of the greasy finish is carried out after 2 minutes of drying, according to a scale ranging from 1 to 15 where 1 constitutes a non-greasy finish reference (bare skin) and 15 constitutes a very greasy finish reference.

(16) In Vitro SPF

(17) The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were taken by means of a UV-2000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a uniform and even deposit in a proportion of 1.3 mg/cm.sup.2.

(18) Preparation Method

(19) The starting materials are first weighed out carefully using a balance (precision=0.01 g). The components of phase A are heated to 70° C. using a hotplate, and are mixed using a Rayneri blender. Phase B is heated to 70° C. and then introduced into phase A. The emulsification is carried out at 70° C. using a rotor-stator of Moritz type. After 10 minutes of emulsion, the preparation is brought back to ambient temperature. Phase C is introduced into the emulsion A+B with Rayneri stirring at ambient temperature.

(20) The composition according to the invention has a high SPF while at the same time having a non-greasy finish after application.

Examples 5 and 6

(21) O/W emulsions according to the invention were prepared.

(22) TABLE-US-00002 5 6 Phase INCI name (invention) (invention) A BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL 3.00 3.00 METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2.00 2.00 (MEXORYL XL) HOMOSALATE 8.00 8.00 OCTYL SALICILATE 5.00 5.00 DIETHYLAMINO 3.00 3.00 HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE OCTOCRYLENE 1.50 1.50 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 3.00 3.00 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.00 3.00 ISOHEXADECANE 2.00 2.00 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL 4.00 4.00 SARCOSINATE BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) 2.00 2.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (CERALUTION H from SASOL) Polymer 1 3.00 3.00 DEXTRIN PALMITATE 1.00 3.00 (RHEOPEARL from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) B GLYCEROL 5.00 5.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.50 0.50 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE 2.00 2.00 SULFONIC ACID TROMETHAMINE 1.80 1.80 XANTHAN GUM 0.50 0.50 WATER qs 100% qs 100% C DENAT. ALCOHOL 5.00 5.00 Stability (2 months at 45° C.) OK OK Stability (2 months at 4° C.)  OK OK in vitro SPF 59.0 ± 4.6 67.4 ± 4.1 Non-greasy finish (Score by sensory 12.1 ± 1.7 13.5 ± 1.4 expert panel, out of 15; 1 = Greasy finish; 15 = Non-greasy finish)

(23) Preparation Method The starting materials are first weighed out carefully using a balance (precision=0.01 g). The components of phase A are heated to 70° C. using a hotplate, and are mixed using a Rayneri blender. Phase B is heated to 70° C. and then introduced into phase A. The emulsification is carried out at 70° C. using a rotor-stator of Moritz type. After 10 minutes of emulsion, the preparation is brought back to ambient temperature. Phase C is introduced into the emulsion A+B with Rayneri stirring at ambient temperature.

Examples 7 and 8

(24) W/O emulsions according to the invention were prepared.

(25) TABLE-US-00003 7 8 Phase INCI name (invention) (invention) A BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL 3.00 3.00 METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2.00 2.00 (MEXORYL XL) HOMOSALATE 8.00 8.00 OCTYL SALICILATE 5.00 5.00 DIETHYLAMINO 3.00 3.00 HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE OCTOCRYLENE 1.50 1.50 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 3.00 3.00 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 6.00 6.00 ISOHEXADECANE 4.00 6.00 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL 8.00 8.00 SARCOSINATE PEG-30 2.00 2.00 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE Polymer 1 1.00 2.00 DEXTRIN PALMITATE 1.00 1.00 (RHEOPEARL from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) B GLYCEROL 5.00 5.00 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.50 0.50 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE 2.00 2.00 SULFONIC ACID TROMETHAMINE 1.80 1.80 XANTHAN GUM 0.50 0.50 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 0.5 WATER qs 100 qs 100 Stability (2 months at 45° C.) OK OK Stability (2 months at 4° C.)  OK OK

(26) Preparation Method The starting materials are first weighed out carefully using a balance The components of phase A are heated to 70° C. using a hotplate, and are mixed using a Rayneri blender. Phase B is heated to 70° C. and then introduced into phase A. The emulsification is carried out at 70° C. using a rotor-stator of Moritz type. After 10 minutes of emulsion, the preparation is brought back to ambient temperature.