WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION WITH MOISTURIZING EFFECT CONTAINING HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENTS AND AN AQUEOUS PHASE AT HIGH CONTENT
20180369083 ยท 2018-12-27
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/893
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/064
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/651
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/894
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/368
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/0241
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/12
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/368
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/58
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/893
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/894
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a in the form of an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing: at least one aqueous phase in a content from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one silicone oil; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment; and optionally at least one moisturizing agent at a concentration ranging from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one emulsifying surfactant. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.
Claims
1. A composition, in the form of an emulsion, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in a content from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one silicone oil; at least one hydrophobic coated pigment; optionally at least one moisturizing agent at a concentration ranging from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one emulsifying surfactant.
2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in a content ranging from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one oily phase, at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one silicone oil; at least one hydrophobic coated pigment; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.
3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in a content from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one continuous oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one silicone oil; at least one hydrophobic coated pigment; at least one moisturizing agent at a concentration ranging from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one emulsifying surfactant, said composition having a viscosity at 25 C. ranging from 0.1 to 10 Pa.Math.s.
4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the viscosity ranges from 0.5 to 5 Pa.Math.s.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase of the emulsion is characterized by a number of droplets of less than 200,000.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant emulsifier is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying surfactant is present in a content of active material of less than 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase concentration is less than or equal to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil chosen from: volatile cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at ambient temperature of less than 8 cst and containing from 4 to 7 silicone atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); phenylated silicones; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises in addition at least one liquid lipophilic organic UV-screening agent, chosen from: liquid lipophilic ,-diphenylacrylate compounds, liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds, liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises at least ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and caprylyl methicone.
12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the moisturizing agent is chosen from polyols, urea and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, glycine, -alanine, taurine, trimethyl glycine, and mixtures thereof.
13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the moisturizing agent is chosen from polyols chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the moisturizing agent is present in the composition in a content ranging from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are present in a proportion ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are hydrophobic coated pigments of iron oxide and/or of titanium dioxide.
17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are titanium dioxides and/or iron oxides coated: with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof; or with isopropyl titanium triisostearate.
18. A process for coating keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the keratin materials.
19. A process for preparing a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising: at least one aqueous phase in a content from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one silicone oil; at least one hydrophobic coated pigment; optionally at least one moisturizing agent at a concentration ranging from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one surfactant emulsifier, the method comprising: a) preparing an aqueous phase by mixing the water, the optional moisturizing agent and the optional other ingredients, with magnetic stirring, at a temperature of from 50 to 60 C. from 3 to 10 minutes and then leaving to cool to 25-30 C.; b) preparing the oily phase, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 30 C., by mixing the hydrophobic coated pigment, the surfactant emulsifier and the oily component with rotor stator stirring (Moritz) for 15 to 25 minutes at a shear rate ranging from 2500 to 3500 revolutions/minute; then c) stirring the oily phase is stirred in a Rayneri deflocculating paddle mixer at a shear rate ranging from 300 to 500 revolutions/minute, at a temperature of from 25 to 30 C.; then d) adding the aqueous phase to said oily phase, over the course of a period of time not exceeding 1 minute, while increasing the stirring to a shear rate ranging from 700 to 1200 revolutions/minute, at a temperature of from 25 to 30 C.; and e) leaving the resulting mixture to stir for a further period of time ranging from 1 to 3 minutes, at a shear rate ranging from 700 to 1200 revolutions/minute, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 30 C.
Description
EXAMPLE
Examples 1 and 2: W/O Emulsion Foundations
[0362]
TABLE-US-00001 Phases INCI names Ex 1 Ex 2* A1 CAPRYLYL METHICONE 12.0 0 (DOW CORNING FZ-3196) MINERAL OIL 0 12.0 A2 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 4.0 4.0 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG 210 from SHIN ETSU) ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 3.0 3.0 (PARSOL MCX) FRAGRANCE 0.2 0.2 B WATER q.s. for q.s. for 100 100 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 0.5 GLYCEROL 15.0 15.0 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 PROPANEDIOL 3.0 3.0 CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 0.3 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 C IRON OXIDES (and) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM 0.1 0.1 TRIISOSTEARATE (BBO-I2 from KOBO) IRON OXIDES (and) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM 0.3 0.3 TRIISOSTEARATE (BRO-I2 from KOBO) IRON OXIDES (and) ISOPROPYL TITANIUM 0.66 0.66 TRIISOSTEARATE (BYO-I2 from KOBO) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) ISOPROPYL 9.0 9.0 TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE (BTD-401 from KOBO) *Outside the invention
Procedure:
[0363] The water was heated to 50 C. and all the elements of phase B were incorporated with electromagnetic stirring for 5 minutes; the phase became translucent.
[0364] B was left to cool. The pigments were milled in phase A1 using a three-roll mill with 3 openings (large, medium then small). When the milled material was ready, it was introduced into a beaker with A2. The mixture was homogenized in a rotor stator (Moritz) for 15 minutes at 3000 revolutions/minute. The silicone elastomer had to be well dispersed so as to no longer form clumps. A was then stirred in a Rayneri deflocculating paddle mixer at 500 revolutions/minute. B was added over the course of approximately 1 minute while increasing the stirring to 1000 revolutions/minute. The walls were scraped and stirring was continued for a further 2 minutes at 1000 revolutions/minute. The stirring was stopped.
Comparative Tests of Stability
[0365] The study of the stability of a formula consisted in observing its behaviour in the time and its stability in various temperatures. A formula was considered as stable when its texture was homogeneous during the time in various temperatures.
[0366] Compositions 1 and 2 were conditioned in 30 ml glass flasks and were stored [0367] 1) during 3 days at room temperature (25 C.) and [0368] 2) during 15 days in an oven with the following temperature cycles: +20 C. during 6 hours; 6 hours to reach 20 C.; 20 C. during 6 hours and finally 6 hours to reach +20 C.
[0369] The macroscopic aspect of each composition 1 and 2, stored in the oven with temperature cycles, was compared with the macroscopic aspect of the corresponding composition at room temperature as control.
[0370] The results are indicated in the following table:
TABLE-US-00002 Ex 1 Ex 2 (invention) (outside the Silicone invention) Stability oil Mineral oil After 3 days in the oven with Stable Unstable temperature cycles After 15 days at room temperature Stable Unstable (control)
[0371] Contrarily to the composition 2 containing a non-silicone oil (mineral oil), the composition 1 containing a silicone oil was stable after 3 days at room temperature and after 15 days in the oven with temperature cycles. Furthermore, the composition 1 made it possible to give good makeup and coverage results and also good moisturizing properties.