Hair cosmetic composition comprising silicones and surfactants, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition, especially for washing and/or conditioning hair, comprising surfactants and an oil-in-water emulsion that comprises: a silicone mixture comprising a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane and an amino silicone; a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifier, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16; and water. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of hair, preferably for washing and/or conditioning hair, using this composition.

Claims

1. A hair composition comprising: (i) one or more surfactants, wherein the surfactants are selected from the group consisting of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof; and (ii) an oil-in-water emulsion having D.sub.50 particle size of less than 350 nm, expressed in volume, and comprising: a silicone mixture comprising (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and (ii) one or more amino-silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value of from 3.5 to 8 mg of KOH per gram of amino-silicone; a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of about 11; and water, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is present in the hair composition in a quantity ranging of from 0.1% to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the hair composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant comprises one or more anionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture, selected from the group consisting of: C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl sulfates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkylsulfosuccinates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)acylisethionates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylsarcosinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglutamates; and C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglycinates.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants selected from the group consisting of: (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20 alkyl)amido(C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alkyl)betaines and (C.sub.8-C.sub.20 alkyl)amido(C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alkyl)sulfobetaines; quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives of formula (III) or (IV):
R.sub.a—CON(Z)CH.sub.2—(CH.sub.2).sub.m—N.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)(CH.sub.2COO.sup.−)  (III) in which: R.sub.a represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.a—COOH, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group, R.sub.b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, R.sub.c represents a carboxymethyl group; m is equal to 0,1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
R.sub.a′—CON(Z)CH.sub.2—(CH.sub.2).sub.m′—N(B)(B′)  (IV) in which: B represents —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OX′, with X′ representing —CH.sub.2—COOH, CH.sub.2—COOZ′, —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2—COOH, —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2—COOZ′, or a hydrogen atom, B′ represents —(CH.sub.2).sub.z—Y′, with z=1 or 2, and Y′ representing —COOH, —COOZ′, —CH.sub.2—CHOH—SO.sub.3H or —CH2-CHOH—SO.sub.3Z′, m′ is equal to 0,1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group, Z′ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine, R.sub.a′ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a′COOH, an alkyl group; compounds of formula (V): R.sub.a″—NH—CH(Y″)—(CH.sub.2)n-C(O)—NH—(CH.sub.2)n′—N(R.sub.d)(R.sub.e) in which: R.sub.a″ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a ″—C(O)OH; Y″ represents the group —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ″, —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3H or the group —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3—Z″, with Z″ representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine; R.sub.d and R.sub.e represent, independently of each other, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and n and n′ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises the surfactant(s) in a total quantity ranging of from 4% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are of formula (I): R′.sub.3SiO(R′.sub.2SiO).sub.pSiR′.sub.3 wherein: R′, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and p is an integer of from 500 to 2000.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more amino-silicones are of formula (II):
XR.sub.2Si(OSiAR).sub.n(OSiR.sub.2).sub.mOSiR.sub.2X wherein: R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6-alkoxy group; A is an amino radical of the formula —R.sup.1—[NR.sup.2—R.sup.3—].sub.xNR.sup.2.sub.2, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R.sup.1 is a C.sub.1-C.sub.6-alkylene radical, R.sup.2, same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4-alkyl radical, R.sup.3 is a C.sub.1-C.sub.6-alkylene radical, and x is 0 or 1; m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000.

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more amino-silicones have a viscosity of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s.

8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone mixture comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 51,000 to less than 70,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value of from 3.5 to 8 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers comprises one or more emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of: (i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers; (ii) polyoxyalkylene (C.sub.8-C.sub.32)alkylphenyl ethers, (iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty acid esters; and (iv) polyoxyethylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.

10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises: the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or cationic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the amino-silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or water in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

11. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D.sub.50 particle size of from 100 to 300 nm, expressed in volume.

12. Composition according to claim 1, comprising the oil-in-water emulsion in a quantity ranging of from 0.5% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more cationic polymers.

14. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more oxyethylenated polymers.

15. Composition according to claim 1, comprising water in a quantity of from 40 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A process for cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising a step of applying to the hair the composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1: PREPARATION OF THE OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION

(1) Transfer 450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane—dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7,2 mg of KOH/gm sample, and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.Math.s at 25° C.) in emulsion tank. Start stirring and under stirring condition transfer 1800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. in the same tank. Mix both the fluids for 2 hours at room temperature.

(2) In a separate tank, transfer 49 g of steareth-6, 62 g of PEG100 stearate and heat to 60° C. Maintain the temperature till both emulsifiers become liquid. Then add 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active matter). This nonionic emulsifiers mixture has an HLB value=11.25.

(3) Then add 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid in the tank and start mixing. Continue mixing till whole mass become a creamy paste. Whole paste is transfer to emulsion tank. Homogenize for 30 minutes at room temperature. Add 79.6 g demineralized water and homogenize for 60 minutes. Add 72.7 g demineralized water and homogenize for 50 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 294.3 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 180 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 180 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 3 minutes. Add 228.5 g demineralized water and homogenize for 3 minutes. Lastly add 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol as a biocide and homogenize for 3 minutes.

(4) An stable oil-in-water emulsion having D.sub.50 particle size of 170 nm is obtained.

EXAMPLE 2: HAIR COMPOSITION

(5) The following composition is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, in which the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (% AM=% active matter).

(6) TABLE-US-00001 Ingredient % by weight Sodium laureth sulfate (1 OE) 14% AM Cocoylamidopropyl betaine 1.5% AM Guar hydroxylpropyltrimonium chloride 0.25%  Carbomer 0.17%  Oil-in-water emulsion from example 1 3.6% Glycerol 0.5% PEG-45M (Polyox WSR N 60 K from Dow Chemical) 0.03% AM Glycol distearate 1.6% Hexylene glycol 0.4% NaCl   1% Fragrance, preservatives qs Water qsp 100%

(7) The composition could be used as a shampoo; it has a pleasant pearlescent appearance and provides good conditioning effects. The foaming properties (foam quality and quantity) are also very good.

(8) The composition is then applied on hair strands. The amount of silicones deposited on the hair is measured after one application. The composition is able to deposit 723 μg of silicone per gram of hair.

(9) The quantity of silicones deposited on the hair is determined by measuring silicium levels using X-ray fluorescence (RC-ANA-MET-1248). Spectrochemical analysis by wavelength dispersive x-ray fluorescence (WDXRF) is based on radiation emissions (spectral lines) characteristic of the chemical element, produced by the impact of high energy photons dispensed by an X-ray tube. Analysis of this fluorescent radiation is performed by counting the number of photons. In this case, i.e. WDXRF, the method consists in separating the photons before counting them using crystal diffraction and positioning the detector at a given wavelength (proportional gas flow counter or a scintillator). The lock to be analysed is prepared by cutting the hair finely with a pair of hairdressing scissors. The “finely cut” hair thus obtained is then placed in the cassette for analysis.

(10) The type of hair (natural or sensitised) does not influence the results.

(11) Instrument: WDXRF Optim'x Thermofisher (Wavelength Dispersion) from Thermo

(12) Characteristics and Operational Parameters: H 126 cm, W 88 cm, D 82 cm, weight-260 kg Gas Flow Helium—Argon/Methane (90/10) X-ray tube (Rh), Cristal PET and detector FPC Tension 25 kv-2 mA 3 measurements/sample=60 s/measurement minimum sample size 250 mg (2 mm pieces)

(13) Key Performance Parameters:

(14) Accuracy: 206 ppm—88%; 790 ppm—101%; 1925 ppm—100%

(15) Sensitivity: 80 ppm of Si (LOQ).

EXAMPLE 3: INFLUENCE OF THE HLB

(16) 3 oil-in-water emulsions have been prepared as follows:

(17) Step 1: Same for the 3 Emulsions

(18) Transfer 450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane—dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7,2 mg of KOH/gm sample, and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.Math.s at 25° C.) in emulsion tank. Start stirring and under stirring condition transfer 1800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. in the same tank.

(19) Mix both the fluids for 2 hours at room temperature.

(20) Step 2: For emulsion A according to the invention:

(21) In a separate tank, transfer 49 g of steareth-6, 62 g of PEG100 stearate and heat to 60° C. Maintain the temperature till both emulsifiers become liquid. Then add 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active matter). This nonionic emulsifiers mixture has an HLB value=11.25. For Comparative Emulsion B:

(22) In a separate tank, transfer 49 g of steareth-6, 30 g of PEG100 stearate and heat to 60° C. Maintain the temperature till both emulsifiers become liquid. Then add 300 g of trideceth-3, 100 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active matter). This nonionic emulsifiers mixture has an HLB value=8.44. For Comparative Emulsion C:

(23) In a separate tank, transfer 49 g of steareth-6, 350 g of PEG100 stearate and heat to 60° C. Maintain the temperature till both emulsifiers become liquid. Then add 31 g of trideceth-3, 50 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active matter). This nonionic emulsifiers mixture has an HLB value=16.474.

(24) Step 3: Same for the 3 Emulsions

(25) Then add 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid in the tank and start mixing. Continue mixing till whole mass become a creamy paste. Whole paste is transfer to emulsion tank. Homogenize for 30 minutes at room temperature. Add 79.6 g demineralized water and homogenize for 60 minutes. Add 72.7 g demineralized water and homogenize for 50 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 294.3 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 180 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 180 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 5 minutes. Add 197.4 g demineralized water and homogenize for 3 minutes. Add 228.5 g demineralized water and homogenize for 3 minutes. Lastly add 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol as a biocide and homogenize for 3 minutes.

(26) Results:

(27) TABLE-US-00002 Emulsion A The emulsion is stable Particle size: 170 nm (HLB = 11.25) Emulsion B The emulsion is unstable Particle size: 1135 nm (HLB = 8.44) Emulsion C The emulsion is unstable Particle size: 754 nm (HLB = 16.474)

(28) The emulsion according to the invention, in which the HLB of the nonionic emulsifiers mixture is in the claimed range, is stable and has a very low particle size. This is not the case with the comparative emulsions, in which the HLB of the emulsifiers mixture is outside the claimed range.

EXAMPLE 4

(29) Different oil-in-water emulsions have been prepared according to example 1 (HLB=11.25). All the emulsions are stable.

(30) TABLE-US-00003 trimethylsilyl terminated dimethyl- Aminosilicone Aminosilicone siloxane viscosity viscosity amine value (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mg of KOH/g Particle at 25° C. at 25° C. sample) size Emulsion A 61000 5600 7.5 186 nm (invention) Emulsion B 61000 5000 1.1 630 nm (comparative) Emulsion C 61000 5700 20.87 180 nm (comparative) Emulsion D 38000 5600 7.5 169 nm (comparative) Emulsion E 150 000   5600 7.5 350 nm (comparative)

(31) The following hair compositions were prepared (AM=active matter):

(32) TABLE-US-00004 Ingredient % by weight Sodium laureth sulfate (1 OE) 13.86% AM Cocoylamidopropyl betaine 1.48% AM Guar hydroxylpropyltrimonium chloride 0.25% Carbomer 0.36% Oil-in-water emulsion   3.6% * Glycerol  0.5% PEG-45M (Polyox WSR N 60 K from Dow Chemical) 0.015% AM Glycol distearate 0.16% Hexylene glycol 0.12% NaCl   1% Fragrance, preservatives qs Water qsp 100% * corresponds to the quantity of emulsion as such.

(33) Friction Test (Combing Force)

(34) The hair swatches to be tested (1 g and 400 mm length of medium-bleached European hair SA20) are previously immersed in boiling petroleum-ether, at a range temperature of 60-80°, for 1 hour. Then they are rinsed and dried in open air.

(35) Then, they are washed with an aqueous solution of 1% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (100 ml of solution per 2.5-3.0 gram of hair), rinsed and dried in open air.

(36) Then, the hair swatches are washed with the composition to be tested: a quantity of 0,1 gram of the composition is applied per gram of hair; then the hair are rinsed and the friction is measured on wet hair.

(37) The friction and combing force is evaluated by using a TA.XT plus Texture Analyzer from Stable Micro Systems Machine.

(38) The metallic comb is attached horizontally and tightened with the screws. The hair tress is fixed within the clip of upper zig. The comb height is calibrated. The speed of the comb is 5 mm/s and the test is run for 10 times.

(39) For fiction measurement, the hair swatch is measured by using a friction probe attachment which is 60 g of weight, the contact area with hair being approximately 1 cm.sup.2, and is placed on the hair swatch and moved at a speed of 5 mm/s to measure the friction value.

(40) The whole length of hair swatch is measured for the friction value and the friction value is obtained in grams.

(41) The value obtained in grams could be multiplied by 400 mm length to obtain the result in g.Math.mm.

(42) 3 swatches are measured, per composition.

(43) The results are mentioned in the table below:

(44) TABLE-US-00005 Wet Friction Std (g .Math. mm) deviation Composition containing emulsion A 4300 48 Composition containing emulsion B 6560 151 Composition containing emulsion C 14000 390 Composition containing emulsion D 8495 138 Composition containing emulsion E 7800 115

(45) Conclusion: the invention shows significantly better performance on wet combing properties on hair, thus improving cosmeticity of hair fibres.