PROCESS FOR COLOURING A BASE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

20180369078 ยท 2018-12-27

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    The present invention relates to a process for coloring a base cosmetic composition, which includes producing, on at least one first zone and one second zone, which are different, at the surface of said composition, two printings of at least one ink originating from an inkjet printer, the base composition and the ink being such that the time needed for the complete penetration, at ambient temperature of 20 C. and under atmospheric pressure, into the base composition of an amount of 20 l of water deposited at its surface is less than 30 s and such that the time needed for the complete penetration into the base composition of the same amount, 20 l, of ink deposited at its surface is less than 15 s.

    Claims

    1. A process for colouring a base cosmetic composition, comprising the step consisting in producing, on at least one first zone and one second zone, which are different, at the surface of said composition, two printings of at least one ink originating from an inkjet printer, the base composition and the ink being such that the time needed for the complete penetration, at ambient temperature of 20 C. and under atmospheric pressure, into the base composition of an amount of 20 l of water deposited at its surface is less than 30 s and such that the time needed for the complete penetration into the base composition of the same amount, 20 l, of ink deposited at its surface is less than 15 s.

    2. The process according to claim 1, in which the base composition and the ink are such that the time needed for the complete penetration into the base composition of an amount of 20 l of water deposited at its surface is less than 12 s and such that the time needed for the complete penetration into the base composition of the same amount, 20 l, of ink deposited at its surface is less than 12 s.

    3. The process according to claim 1, the ink being deposited in a sufficient amount so as to diffuse through a depth of the base composition greater than or equal to 1 mm, for each zone.

    4. The process according to claim 1, the step of producing two printings of ink(s) being carried out so that the distance d between the adjacent edges of the depositions of the two zones is less than or equal to the sum (l.sub.1+l.sub.2) of the lateral diffusion widths of each of the inks multiplied by a coefficient k between 1 and 2, i.e. d(l.sub.1+l.sub.2)*k.

    5. The process according to claim 4, the lateral diffusion width (l.sub.1, l.sub.2) being less than or equal to 5 mm.

    6. The process according to claim 1, the base composition being a pulverulent in compact powder form.

    7. The process according to claim 1, an ink of a first colour being deposited on the first zone and an ink of a second colour being deposited on the second zone.

    8. The process according to claim 1, the number of zones being greater than two, the number of colours of links deposited by printing being equal to two, the zones being positioned together in a predetermined manner in alternation.

    9. The process according to claim 1, the number of zones and of colours of inks deposited being greater than two.

    10. The process according to claim 1, each zone of the base composition being delimited by a demarcation element different from the composition.

    11. The process according to claim 1, at least two zones being defined by a same small dish containing the composition.

    12. The process according to claim 1, each zone having a polygonal or non-polygonal contour.

    13. The process according to claim 1, the step of depositing printings of ink(s) being carried out so as to produce a gradation of colours between two adjacent zones.

    14. The process according to claim 1, the step of depositing printings of ink(s) being performed so as to delimit a plurality of zones, the base composition on at least one zone containing or being intended to contain a third compound.

    15. The process according to claim 14, the third compound being an active agent chosen from the group made up of cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents, such as UV-screening agents and anti-acne active agents.

    16. The process according to claim 14, comprising the step consisting in depositing, using the printer, said third compound, simultaneously or after the step of depositing printings of ink(s).

    17. The process according to claim 1, the step of depositing printings of ink(s) consisting in carrying out a number n>1 of printing passes, n being between 5 and 200.

    18. The process according to claim 1, the base composition being white before deposition of the printings of ink(s), the base composition being a foundation, a blusher, an eyeshadow or a lipstick.

    19. (canceled)

    20. The process according to claim 1, the deposition of ink(s) over all of the zones covering the whole of the surface of the base composition.

    21. (canceled)

    22. (canceled)

    23. The process according to claim 1, the total amount of ink(s) deposited on the base composition being greater than or equal to 0.2 mg/cm.sup.2.

    24. (canceled)

    25. (canceled)

    Description

    FIGURES

    [0137] The invention may be better understood with the following reading of non-limiting implementation examples thereof, and with examination of the attached drawing, in which:

    [0138] FIG. 1 is a schematic view of an example of a cosmetic composition produced according to the process in accordance with the invention,

    [0139] FIG. 2 is a photograph illustrating the measurement of the lateral diffusion of the ink around the printing zone,

    [0140] FIG. 3 is a photograph partially illustrating a cross section of the base composition after printing according to the process in accordance with the invention,

    [0141] FIGS. 4 to 6 are photographs illustrating, in perspective and in cross section, various base compositions after printing according to the process in accordance with the invention.

    [0142] FIG. 1 shows an example of a base composition 1 after implementation of the process according to the invention.

    [0143] In this example, the printing on two different zones of the base composition 1, namely zones Z1, of square shape in this example, and zones Z2 in the form of lines together forming a grid pattern that separates the zones Z1 from one another, is carried out several times. The printing carried out on the zones Z1 enables the deposition of an ink of non-white colour. The printing carried out on the zones Z2 enables the deposition of another, more neutral colour.

    [0144] The base composition 1 may comprise a third compound in the form of a dermatological active agent, so that the composition obtained makes it possible to act as a guide for the application of said dermatological active agent.

    [0145] As a variant, the process comprises the step of printing, onto the base composition, of this third compound, for example contained in a fluid composition, in similar or different amounts between the various zones Z1. This printing step may be at the same time as the ink printing step or afterwards.

    [0146] Tests

    [0147] Diffusion Width, Distance Between Two Zones

    [0148] The evaluation of the lateral diffusion outside of the deposition of ink at the moment of printing is carried out in the following manner:

    [0149] 50 printing passes are carried out on a 55 mm square of a base composition 10. The colour of the ink is chosen so as to stand out from the colour of the base composition. The printing takes place under controlled temperature and humidity conditions (20 C., 50% RH).

    [0150] Then, afterwards, it is left to dry for 24 hours. This drying time is important. Indeed, formulae that give sharp edges just after printing may become blurred after 24 h.

    [0151] Next, a photograph is taken with the HiROX KH 8700 video microscope equipped with the MX-macro Z VI lens. This photograph is visible in FIG. 2.

    [0152] Using image analysis software, the outline of the pattern obtained after lateral diffusion of all the edges of the printing is plotted, taking care to define an object with a closed outline. The software gives the surface area S of the object, S being 35.8 mm.sup.2 in this example, seen in the photograph from the bottom of FIG. 2.

    [0153] 1 printing pass is carried out on a 55 mm square under the same conditions as above. The reference surface area with no diffusion, S, of 25.1 mm.sup.2 is obtained. The photograph is visible at the top of FIG. 2.

    [0154] Then, the lateral diffusion D1 all around the initial printing zone is determined by the following formula: D1.sup.=(SS)/20.

    [0155] Measurement of the Depth of Diffusion of Ink(s)

    [0156] After carrying out the printings of the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition impregnated with ink(s) is left to dry for 24 hours. A transverse section is cut in the block of the cosmetic composition using a knife. One of the two halves is freed and a photograph of the slice is taken. It should be noted that it is not possible to measure exactly by means of the slice because of the presence of the small dish. Thus, a photograph, visible in FIG. 3, is taken, with an angle , in this example equal to 45, which results in the thickness measured being corrected by a factor 1/cos(), i.e. 2 if the angle is 45.

    [0157] By virtue of a calibration chart and image analysis software, the depth L of penetration of the ink(s), and therefore the thickness L of the layer impregnated with ink(s), are extracted therefrom.

    [0158] The work is carried out with the HiROX KH 8700 video microscope equipped with the MX-macro Z VI lens and using proprietary software.

    [0159] Rate of Penetration of the Ink

    [0160] The test to be carried out in order to determine the rate of penetration of the ink into the base composition is the following: [0161] 1) A 20 l drop of water is applied to the surface of the compact (by means of a micropipette). Next, the penetration of the drop is monitored and the time that it takes to disappear is noted. In order to do this, the deposition and the penetration of the drop are filmed from a grazing direction of observation until the disappearance of the drop. This disappearance is observed when liquid is no longer seen at the surface giving rise to either the disappearance of the brightness, or the stabilization of the aureole and the duration of the sequence between the deposition of the drop and its disappearance is marked off a posteriori on the video. This time is referred to as td1. [0162] 2) The same test is carried out with the ink instead of the water. This time is referred to as td2.

    [0163] The base compositions that fall within the context of the invention are those which, with the ink considered, have: [0164] td1<30 s and td2<15 sand [0165] preferably: td1<12 s and td2<12 s.

    EXAMPLES

    [0166] Use is made, in these examples, of the following two inks (manufacturer=Lesepidado): [0167] Epson EU/ME Magenta ink (ref: ART.76304000) [0168] Epson EU/ME Cyan ink (ref: ART.76304002)

    [0169] Several base compositions in the form of commercial compact powders, also referred to as compacts, are taken and the penetration rate test described above is carried out in order to measure the times td1 and td2 for each of the compositions.

    [0170] Next, a blue and magenta check pattern is printed with the two inks above formed of nine squares of 5 mm5 mm per square. The printing is carried out by performing 50 printing passes with the Gatocopy printer.

    [0171] There is a waiting period of 24 hours for the pattern to stabilize. Then, the reproduction and sharpness quality of the check pattern is evaluated visually. For this, a panel of 4 people is used, in order to give a score ranging from 0 to 5.

    [0172] Next, the depth of diffusion and the printing quality at depth are evaluated. The evaluation is made in mm.

    TABLE-US-00001 Sharp- Depth Compacts td2 (s) td1 (s) ness (mm) Lancme Absolue Compact 1 5 5 3 2 L'Oral Paris True Match Mineral 1 3 3 3 2 Lancme Belle de teint 1 6 9 3 2 L'Oral Paris FAP_Matte106 2 1 2 3 1.75 La Roche Posay Toleriane Mineral 3 10 >60 2 1 Lancme Transluscence Powder 3 5 >60 2 1 L'Oral Paris Perfect Match 4 3 >60 1 1 L'Oral Paris Infallible 4 11 >60 2 1.5 Moisturizing complexion 5 17 4 0 1.5

    [0173] Only the printings that achieve a sharpness score of 3 are satisfactory. Furthermore, it is seen that these formulae give the best deep penetrations into the base composition.

    [0174] The results obtained for the compositions entitled True Match Mineral, Infallible and Perfect Match are illustrated respectively in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6. In the case of FIG. 4, a sharpness of 3 is visualized, which is therefore satisfactory, after implementation of the process according to the invention on the composition sold under the name True Match Mineral. In the case of FIG. 5, a sharpness of 2 is visualized, which is insufficient, after implementation of the process according to the invention on the composition sold under the name Infallible. Finally, in the case of FIG. 6, a sharpness of 1 is visualized, which is insufficient, after implementation of the process according to the invention on the composition sold under the name Perfect Match.

    [0175] The depth of diffusion in the True Match Mineral composition visible in the cross section produced and visible in FIG. 4 is greater than that of the other two compositions illustrated in FIGS. 5 and 6.