PHOTOPROTECTIVE COMPOSITION BASED ON A CARBOXYLIC ACID ESTER; USE OF SAID COMPOUND FOR INCREASING THE SUN PROTECTION FACTOR

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (a) at least one photoprotective system capable of screening out UV radiation; (b) one or more carboxylic acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms; (c) at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30alkyl(poly)glycoside.

The present invention also relates to the use of a carboxylic acid ester in a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one photoprotective system capable of screening out UV radiation.

Claims

1. A composition which comprises, in a medium: (a) at least one photoprotective system capable of screening out UV radiation; (b) at least one carboxylic acid ester comprising at least 12 carbon atoms in each of its fatty chains, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms; (c) at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30alkyl(poly)glycoside.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is chosen from those corresponding to formula (I) below:
RCOOR(I) in which: R and R, which may be identical or different, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is of formula (I) in which: R and R denote a C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl group.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the carboxylic acid ester(s) are chosen from behenyl behenate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl arachidate.

5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30alkyl(poly)glycoside is chosen from cocoyl(poly)glucoside, arachidyl(poly)glucoside, myristyl(poly)glucoside, cetylstearyl(poly)gluco side, C.sub.12-C.sub.20alkyl(poly)gluco sides, isostearyl(poly)gluco side and octyldodecyl(poly)xyloside.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30alkyl(poly)glycoside is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, also comprising at least one C8-40 fatty alcohol.

9. The composition as claimed in claim 8, in which the at least one fatty alcohol is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the photoprotective system is formed from one or more hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic screening agents and/or mineral screening agents.

11. The composition as claimed in claim 10, in which the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; , -diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; -alkylstyrene-based dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; merocyanin derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition as claimed in claim 11, in which the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Homosalate, Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl butamidotriazone, 2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, 1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene; 2,4-Bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition as claimed in claim 10, in which the mineral UV-screening agents are coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments.

14. The composition as defined in claim 1 wherein the medium is a cosmetically acceptable medium and wherein the at least one carboxylic acid ester increases the sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition.

15. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of a composition as defined in claim 1.

16. A cosmetic process for limiting darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of a composition as defined in claim 1.

17. A cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of a composition as defined in claim 1.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 1 in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is of formula (I) in which: R and R denote a C.sub.14-C.sub.24 alkyl group selected from the group of behenyl, stearyl and arachidyl.

19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is chosen from behenyl behenate, stearyl stearate and arachidyl arachidate,

20. The composition as claimed in claim 2, in which the at least one carboxylic acid ester is present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 TO 3

[0353] Formulations containing the following ingredients were prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 1 (invention) 2 3 SODIUM 2 2 2 POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (AND) POLYSORBATE 80 (AND) SORBITAN OLEATE (SIMULGEL 800SEPPIC) OCTOCRYLENE (UVINUL 7 7 7 N539BASF) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (AND) 4 4 4 BEHENYL ALCOHOL (AND) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 202SEPPIC) HOMOSALATE 5 5 5 BUTYLMETHOXYDIBENZOYL 3 3 3 METHANE ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 BEHENYL BEHENATE 1 0 0 POLYMETHYLENE WAX 0 1 0 (CIREBELLE 303) WATER QS 100.0 100.0 100.0

[0354] For each of the compositions 1 to 3, the sun protection factor (SPF) associated therewith was then determined. This was determined by using the in vitro method described by V. Wandel et al. in SOFW Journal 127 (2001); this method consists in determining the monochromatic protection factors over a wavelength range from 290 to 400 nm and in calculating therefrom the sun protection factor according to a given mathematical equation. The measurement was taken with a 1 nm increment on a UV-1000S machine from the company Labsphere, 0.6 mg/cm.sup.2 of product being spread on a frosted PMMA plate. The results (mean value corresponding to plates per product, 10 points per plate) are collated in table (I) below:

[0355] Measuring Matt Effect by In Vitro Evaluation

[0356] The matt effect obtained with composition 1 according to the invention and with compositions 2 and 3 given by way of comparative example was measured, using a contrast card (Prufkarte 24/5-250 cm.sup.2 type) sold by the company Erichsen. The composition was spread in an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2 by means of a mechanical film drawer to obtain a film 100 microns thick. The cards were stored for 24 hours at 37 C. under a controlled atmosphere at between 15% and 25% humidity. 1 spray of a mixture (20% oleic acid+80% Vichy water+1% Oleth-10) was applied; the amount deposited is about 0.3 g per spray. The reflection was measured at TO using a gonioreflectometer (GU TO), a 6-minute waiting period at room temperature was observed and a new measurement was then taken (GU T6 min). The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection (gloss units). The value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the matt effect.

[0357] Table (I) below gives values for the immediate gloss units (GU TO) and after spraying on an artificial sebum/sweat solution (GU T6 min).

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE I Matt effect after spraying with Immediate artificial matt effect sebum/sweat T0 solution T6 min in vitro SPF Base SPF + 1% behenyl 2.8 3.55 22.5 behenate (Ex. 1) Base SPF + 1% cirebelle 3.25 11.45 15.38 303 (Ex. 2) Base SPF (Ex. 3) 3.23 9.6 14.3

EXAMPLES 4 TO 6

[0358] The following three compositions were prepared:

TABLE-US-00003 4 5 6 Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl 3 3 3 alcohol (and) arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 202SEPPIC) Octocrylene 7 7 7 Fragrance 0.1 0.1 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 3 Silica (and) titanium dioxide 3 3 3 Paraffin 0.5 0.5 0.5 lsononyl isononanoate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone 3 3 3 Glycerol 5 5 5 Behenyl behenate 0.5 1 0 Ammonium 0.5 0.5 0.5 acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Aristoflex AVC Clariant) Dicaprylyl carbonate 5 5 5 Water qs 66.3 66.3 66.3

[0359] The SPF of compositions 4, 5 and 6 was measured in vivo according to the method ISO 24444 (2010).

[0360] The SPF of the compositions according to the invention comprising behenyl behenate is markedly greater than that of the composition not containing any.

TABLE-US-00004 in vivo SPF Base SPF 2 (Ex 6) 12 comparative Base SPF 2 + 0.5% 16 behenyl behenate (Ex. 4) Invention Base SPF 2 + 1% behenyl 19 behenate (Ex. 5) Invention