COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH AT LEAST ONE ESTER OF A FATTY ACID AND POLYOL
20180360703 ยท 2018-12-20
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/8111
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition, particularly for coating keratin fibers, notably eyelashes, in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one pasty fat chosen from (poly)esters of at least one C.sub.20-C.sub.100 fatty acid, preferably behenic acid, and at least one polyol, preferably glycerol, wherein the wax content is strictly greater than 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
Claims
1. A composition in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one pasty fat chosen from (poly)esters of at least one C.sub.20-C.sub.100 fatty acid and at least one polyol said pasty fat being a mixture comprising glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl di-behenate and glyceryl tri-behenate, wherein the wax content is strictly greater than 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pasty fat content is greater than or equal to 0.1 by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising polybutene.
4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the polybutene content is between 0.1% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
6. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additional pasty fat chosen from glycerol oligomer esters.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the water content is greater than or equal to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
8. The composition according to claim 1, in which the wax content is between 5.5% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
10. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, notably with a total content ranging from 4% to 14% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the surfactant(s) is/are chosen from non-ionic surfactants from anionic surfactants and from mixtures thereof.
12. A method for coating keratin fibers comprising a step of applying a composition according to claim 1.
13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (poly)ester is behenic acid and the at least one polyol is glycerol.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pasty fat content is from 0.5% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pasty fat content is from 1% to 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
16. The composition according to claim 2, further comprising polybutene.
17. The composition according to claim 2, comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
18. The composition according to claim 3, comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
19. The composition according to claim 4, comprising at least one film-forming polymer.
20. The composition according to claim 2, further comprising at least one additional pasty fat chosen from glycerol oligomer esters.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0268] A composition according to the invention with a pasty fat (C1) as defined above and a comparative composition without this pasty fat (example 2), as well as a comparative composition without this pasty fat but with another kind of pasty fat (example 3) were prepared and tested for the black intensity thereof.
[0269] Preparation Protocol for Said Compositions
[0270] In a tank, at ambient temperature, all the ingredients below were introduced, with the exception of the acrylic film-forming polymer (DAITOSOL 5000 AD), in a volume of water corresponding to 20% of the total water.
[0271] The mixture obtained was heated to 95 C. and stirred for 20 minutes. The rest of the water was then added and the mixture was homogenized and emulsified for 15 minutes with mechanical stirring (blades+turbine).
[0272] The mixture was then allowed to cool with stirring up to 40 C. The acrylic film-forming polymer (DAITOSOL 5000 AD) was then added.
[0273] The final mixture was homogenized with the blades and allowed to cool to 20 C.
[0274] Cosmetic compositions with and without pasty fat (C1) according to the invention were prepared according to the tables hereinbelow.
[0275] Example 1 according to the invention comprises a pasty fat (C1) as described above, while the comparative example 2 does not comprise a pasty fat (C1) according to the invention, and the comparative example 3 comprises a pasty fat other than the pasty fat (C1) according to the invention.
TABLE-US-00001 Trade Example 1 Example 2 Ingredients Supplier name (Invention) (comparative) Disodium EDTA BASF EDETA BD 0.2 0.2 Iron oxides SUN SUNPURO BLACK 7.14 7.14 IRON OXIDE C33- 7001 Sodium dehydroacetate SHANGHAI SODIUM 0.3 0.3 XINWANG DEHYDROACETATE POLYMER MATERIAL Phenoxyethanol SEPPIC SEPICIDE LD 0.84 0.84 Carnauba wax STRAHL & CARNAUBA WAX #1 3.5 3.5 (COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX) PITSCH FLAKES N.F. SP 63 BEESWAX KOSTER WHITE BEESWAX 4.4 4.4 KEUNEN (GR B 889) Glyceryl behenate (and) tribehenin GATTEFOSSE Compritol 888 CG 2 0 (and) glyceryl behenate ATO Cetyl alcohol BASF LANETTE 16 2 2 Paraffin BAERLOCHER AFFINE 56-58 11.12 11.12 PASTILLES Hydrogenated jojoba oil DESERT JOJOBA WAX 0.25 0.25 WHALE FLAKES Hydrogenated palm oil SIO (ADM) GV 60 0.25 0.25 Hydroxyethylcellulose AMERCHOL CELLOSIZE QP 0.75 0.75 (DOW 4400 H CHEMICAL) Acacia gum (ACACIA SENEGAL NEXIRA SPRAYGUM SC10 0.63 0.63 GUM) Ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer HONEYWELL ASENSA SC 401 2.78 2.78 Acrylate copolymer in aqueous DAITO KASEI DAITOSOL 5000 AD 10 10 dispersion at 50% KOGYO Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer CRODA OLEOCRAFT LP-10- 0.5 0.5 dilinoleate copolymer PA-(MV) Water 45.94 47.94 Caprylyl glycol DR DERMOSOFT 0.3 0.3 STRAETMANS OCTIOL Steareth-2 EVONIK TEGO ALKANOL S2 2.1 2.1 GOLDSCHMIDT Potassium cetylphosphate DSM AMPHISOL K 5 5 NUTRITIONAL (0452130) PRODUCTS Trade Example 3 Ingredients Supplier name (comparative) Disodium EDTA BASF EDETA BD 0.2 Iron oxides SUN SUNPURO BLACK 7.14 IRON OXIDE C33- 7001 Sodium dehydroacetate SHANGHAI SODIUM 0.3 XINWANG DEHYDROACETATE POLYMER MATERIAL Phenoxyethanol SEPPIC SEPICIDE LD 0.84 Carnauba wax STRAHL & CARNAUBA WAX #1 3.5 (COPERNICIA CERIFERA WAX) PITSCH FLAKES N.F. SP 63 BEESWAX KOSTER WHITE BEESWAX 4.4 KEUNEN (GR B 889) Glyceryl behenate (and) tribehenin GATTEFOSSE Compritol 888 CG 0 (and) glyceryl behenate ATO TRIBEHENIN PEG-20 ESTERS GATTEFOSSE EMULIUM 22 2 Cetyl alcohol BASF LANETTE 16 2 Paraffin BAERLOCHER AFFINE 56-58 11.12 PASTILLES Hydrogenated jojoba oil DESERT JOJOBA WAX 0.25 WHALE FLAKES Hydrogenated palm oil SIO (ADM) GV 60 0.25 Hydroxyethylcellulose AMERCHOL CELLOSIZE QP 0.75 (DOW 4400 H CHEMICAL) Acacia gum (ACACIA SENEGAL NEXIRA SPRAYGUM SC10 0.63 GUM) Ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer HONEYWELL ASENSA SC 401 2.78 Acrylate copolymer in aqueous DAITO KASEI DAITOSOL 5000 AD 10 dispersion at 50% KOGYO Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer CRODA OLEOCRAFT LP-10- 0.5 dilinoleate copolymer PA-(MV) Water 45.94 Caprylyl glycol DR DERMOSOFT 0.3 STRAETMANS OCTIOL Steareth-2 EVONIK TEGO ALKANOL S2 2.1 GOLDSCHMIDT Potassium cetylphosphate DSM AMPHISOL K 5 NUTRITIONAL (0452130) PRODUCTS
[0276] It is understood that, within the scope of the present invention, the weight percentages given, for a compound or a family of compounds, are always expressed by weight of dry matter of the compound in question (unless specified otherwise).
[0277] Protocols and Results Relating to Black Intensity
[0278] The mascara composition in example 1 according to the invention and the mascara composition in examples 2 and 3 outside the invention were tested according to a black intensity measurement protocol.
[0279] Black Measurement Protocol
[0280] The apparatus used to measure the black value is Spectro-guide Sphere Gloss/BYK. The apparatus was set to measure the color without the gloss (Gloss OFF and D65/10).
[0281] A film is applied on a glass slide with a 150 m deposit thickness. The mascara deposit is allowed to dry for 24 hours at ambient temperature. Finally, measurement is made with the colorimeter on a dry film with the plastic support of the colorimeter.
[0282] The results obtained are as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (invention) (comparative) (comparative) L 22.23 22.97 23.43 a 0.24 0.21 0.13 b 0.76 0.82 1.08
[0283] The blackness of the composition comprising the compound C1 (example 1), namely Glyceryl behenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO (GATTEFOSSE)), is much higher (lower L value) than example 2 which does not contain it.
[0284] The blackness of the composition comprising the compound C1 (example 1) is also much higher (lower L value) than example 3 which does not contain it but contains another kind of pasty fat (Emulium 22).
[0285] The difference in blackness is also visually perceptible.
[0286] Indeed, it can be seen that the composition of example 1 (according to the invention) has a higher blackness in mass in a recipient and also between two glass plates, in comparison with the composition of example 3 (with Emulium 22).