METHOD FOR KNITTING DENSE ZONES AND KNIT OBTAINED

Abstract

A method for the circular knitting of a knit including at least one dense zone, in which the dense zone(s) of the knit is or are achieved via knitting an alternation, in each row of stitches, of a first and second row of jersey stitches. The first row of jersey stitches is knitted on a first selection of needles, and includes knitting at least one tuck stitch within the row of jersey stitches, so as to form binding points with the sinker loops of the second row of stitches. The second row of jersey stitches is knitted with a second selection of needles and includes knitting with a reinforcing yarn in addition to the stitch-forming yarn. These dense zones can be used to increase the opaqueness of the knit at certain specific locations and thus create shapes for aesthetic purposes, or to reinforce the knit to make it more wear-resistant.

Claims

1. A method for circular knitting by using a knitting machine, wherein the knit is formed from a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a stitch-forming yarn, and comprises at least one dense zone, wherein the dense zone or zones are produced by knitting alternately, on each row of stitches, of a first row of jersey stitches and a second row of jersey stitches, such as: the first row of jersey stitches is knitted on a first selection of needles, and includes at least one tuck stitch within the row of jersey stitches, so as to form binding points with the sinker loops of the second row of stitches, the second row of jersey stitches is knitted with a second selection of needles and includes knitting with a reinforcing yarn in addition to the stitch-forming yarn.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein, for the first selection of needles, the knitting of a tuck stitch is performed every other stitch, within the first row of stitches.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein, for the first selection of needles, the knitting of a tuck stitch is performed one stitch in three or one stitch in four or one stitch in five, within the first row of stitches.

4. The method according to claim 1, further comprising the knitting of a weft yarn between each row of stitches.

5. The method according to claim 2, further comprising the knitting of a weft yarn between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float which corresponds to the needle which has knitted a stitch on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every other needle, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are staggered relative to the next weft row, such that the floats are offset relative to each other from one weft row to the next.

6. The method according to claim 3, further comprising the knitting of a weft yarn between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating two or three or four consecutive floats which correspond to the needles which have knitted a stitch on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every third needle or every fourth needle or every fifth needle respectively, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are staggered relative to the next weft row, such that the floats are offset relative to each other from one weft row to the next.

7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the dense zones, creating uniform geometric shapes evenly dispersed over the surface of the knit and whose total surface area of the dense zones is less than 10% of the total surface area of the knit, and preferably less than or equal to 5% of the total surface area of the knit.

8. The method according to claim 2, further comprising the knitting of a weft yarn between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float which corresponds to the needle which has knitted a load on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every other needle, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are produced in the same columns from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are aligned with each other.

9. The method according to claim 3, further comprising the knitting of a weft yarn between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating two or three or four consecutive floats which correspond to the needles which have knitted a load on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every third needle or every fourth needle or every fifth needle respectively, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are produced in the same columns from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are aligned with each other.

10. A circular knit formed from a plurality of rows of stitches knitted with a stitch-forming yarn, and comprising at least one dense zone, wherein the dense zone or zones alternate at each row of stitches, of a first row of jersey stitches and a second row of jersey stitches, such as: the first row of jersey stitches is knitted on a first selection of needles, and includes at least one tuck stitch within the row of jersey stitches, so as to form binding points with the sinker loops of the second row of jersey stitches, the second row of jersey stitches knitted with a second selection of needles and includes knitting with a reinforcing yarn in addition to the stitch-forming yarn.

11. The knit according to claim 10, wherein the tuck stitch is knitted every other stitch, within the first row of stitches.

12. The knit according to claim 10, wherein, for the first selection of needles, the knitting of a tuck stitch is performed one stitch in three or one stitch in four or one stitch in five, within the first row of stitches.

13. The knit according to claim 10, further comprising a weft yarn knitted between each row of stitches.

14. The knit according to claim 11, further comprising a weft yarn knitted between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float in the column where a stitch has been knitted on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every other column, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are staggered from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are offset relative to each other from one weft row to the next.

15. The knit according to claim 12, further comprising a weft yarn knitted between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating two or three or four consecutive floats in the columns where a load has been knitted on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every third or every fourth or every fifth column respectively, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are staggered from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are offset relative to each other from one weft row to the next.

16. The knit according to claim 10, wherein the dense zones create uniform geometric shapes evenly dispersed over the surface of the knit and whose total surface area of the dense zones is less than 10% of the total surface area of the knit, and preferably less than or equal to 5% of the total surface area of the knit.

17. The knit according to claim 11, further comprising a weft yarn knitted between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float in the column where a load has been knitted on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every other column, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are produced in the same columns from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are aligned with each other.

18. The knit according to claim 12, further comprising a weft yarn knitted between each row of stitches, wherein the weft yarn is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating two or three or four consecutive floats in the columns where a load has been knitted on the first row of stitches, the weft yarn being picked only every third or every fourth or every fifth column respectively, and wherein the floats of the weft yarn are produced in the same column from one weft row to the next, such that the floats are aligned with each other.

19. The textile item comprising at least one knit provided with at least one dense zone according to claim 10.

20. The textile item according to claim 19, said item being stockings, tights or socks.

21. The textile item comprising at least one knit provided with at least one dense zone according to claim 13, said item being stockings, tights or socks, wherein the dense zone or zones are located on a surface of the item in contact with the heel and/or a surface of the item in contact with the toes and/or a surface in contact with the lower surface of the foot of an individual when the item is worn by an individual.

22. The textile item according to claim 19, characterised in that it is a compression and/or support item.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0041] FIG. 1 is a partial view of a circular knitting machine.

[0042] FIG. 2 is a detailed view of the machine in FIG. 1.

[0043] FIG. 3 is a diagram showing a combination of needles that may be selected when using the method according to this invention.

[0044] FIG. 4 is a diagram showing a combination of needles that may be selected when using during the method according to this invention to form dense zones used to increase the opaqueness of the knit at specific locations and thus create shapes for aesthetic purposes.

[0045] FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the repetition of the geometric shapes created by the aesthetic dense zones on a knit according to the invention.

[0046] FIG. 6 is a diagram showing a repetition of circular dense zones created by the aesthetic dense zones on a knit according to the invention.

[0047] FIG. 7 is a diagram showing a repetition of triangular-shaped dense zones created by the aesthetic dense zones on a knit on another knit according to the invention.

[0048] FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a combination of needles that may be selected when using the method according to this invention to form dense zones used to reinforce the knit to make it more wear-resistant.

[0049] FIG. 9 is a microscopic image of a knit outside the dense zones.

[0050] FIG. 10A is a microscopic image of the external face of a knit within a dense zone used to reinforce the knit.

[0051] FIG. 10B is a microscopic image of the internal face of a knit within a dense zone used to reinforce the knit.

[0052] FIG. 11 is a partial view of the shape of the dense zone used to reinforce the knit in an item of footwear.

[0053] FIG. 12 is a diagram of an item of footwear according to the invention.

[0054] FIG. 13 is a diagram of another item of footwear according to the invention.

[0055] FIG. 14 is a diagram showing the front view of the stitch pattern of the knit shown in FIG. 8.

[0056] FIG. 15 is a diagram showing the reverse view of the stitch pattern of the knit shown in FIG. 8.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0057] The invention relates to a circular knitting method, a circular knit (1), and a textile item (3) incorporating such a circular knit (1). A combination of needle selections used is shown in FIG. 3: it comprises knitting an alternation of a first row of jersey stitches (M1) and a second row of jersey stitches (M2).

[0058] The rows of stitches (M1, M2) are knitted using any suitable yarn. In the case of footwear, the stitch-forming yarn (5) may particularly be a single-gimped or double-gimped yarn, for example, comprising an elastane core yarn and polyamide coating yarns.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the core yarn is a elastane yarn with a titre of 22 dtex, double-gimped polyamide coating yarns with a titre of 22 dtex comprising 20 filaments, and with false twist. I must be remembered that 1 dtex=10.sup.?7 kg/m. In this embodiment, the two coating yarns are preferably reversed in their false-twist directions.

[0060] The reinforcing yarn (6) may be of any suitable type. A preferred reinforcement yarn (6) is a 13-filament, false-twisted polyamide yarn with a titre of 44 dtex.

[0061] As can be seen from the diagrams in FIGS. 3, 4 and 8 that show needles that may be selected: [0062] the positions (m) are those where the machine needles ascend to knit only the stitch-forming yarn (5), and produce jersey stitches; [0063] the positions (r) are those where the needles ascend fully to knit the stitch-forming yarn (5) and the reinforcement yarn (6); [0064] the positions (c) are those in which the needles ascend half-way to pick the stitch-forming yarn and produce tuck stitches, to form upper binding points with the sinker loops of the next row of stitches.

[0065] In this way, the stitch-forming yarn (5) and the reinforcement yarn (6) inserted in the second row of stitches (M2) are knitted by the needles of the tuck stitches of the first row of stitches (M1). The rows (M1, M2) are thus brought closer together.

[0066] In the needle selection diagram in FIG. 3, every other stitch in the first row of stitches (M1) in the dense zone (2) is a tuck stitch (c) to tighten the rows of stitches to a satisfactory density level.

[0067] In the first aesthetic use, the dense zones (2) obtained by the invention have a greater thickness than the rest of the knit (1). By judiciously choosing the dimensions and distribution of these dense zones (2) on the knit (1), it is possible to obtain textures or appearances that are usually obtained by additional manufacturing steps. For example, a plumetis is traditionally obtained by embroidering a yarn on a textile item, so as to obtain small dots in relief.

[0068] This first use is shown by the stitch diagram in FIG. 4. This stitch diagram shows that the dense zones (2) are only 5 stitches wide and 12 rows high.

[0069] In terms of plumetis, the raised dots are small. Depending on the desired effect and to highlight the relief of the dense zones (2), the total surface area of the dense zones (2) is less than 20% of the total surface area of the knit (1), or even less than 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 5%.

[0070] FIG. 5 shows the repetition of geometric shapes wherein the dense zones (2) of FIG. 4 are arranged in a regular pattern on the knit (1). As shown, this may be a rectangular matrix of variable height or width, or successive staggered rows. The knit (1) obtained with such a repetition of geometric shapes has a plumetis effect, at the output from the knitting machine. The advantage is therefore economic, since an additional manufacturing step can be omitted.

[0071] It is specified that it is understood by those skilled in the art that the dense zones created by means of the needle selection shown in FIG. 5 require, in practice, the creation of a specific design representing the ratio and shape of the desired pattern. This design is converted according to the computer extension recognised by the single-cylinder knitting machine used, and associated with its knitting program to obtain the desired pattern shape repeat(s). The ratio of the predetermined design makes it possible to repeat the pattern evenly over both the circumference and the desired length of the product according to the desired design (as shown in FIG. 6).

[0072] With reference to the same FIG. 6, the uniform appearance of the geometric shapes translates into an identical visual effect for each of the dense zones, insofar as the latter are obtained from the same needle selections. The regular dispersion of said dense zones translates into an identical distance between each dense zone and the neighbouring dense zones, insofar as the same pattern is repeated on the knit thanks to the computer software.

[0073] The geometric shape of the dense zone (2) to be repeated to obtain the plumetis effect may be adapted depending on aesthetic requirements. The dense zone may be circular, oval, rectangular or any other desired shape.

[0074] The even distribution of the dense zones (2) on the knit (1) may include, for example, symmetries or rotations. FIGS. 6 and 7 show two examples of plumetis effects obtained: [0075] FIG. 6 shows the repetition of dense circular zones, as found on traditional plumetis; [0076] FIG. 7 shows the repetition of dense, triangular-shaped zones, wherein the geometric shapes are rotated alternately 180? along a row.

[0077] As illustrated in FIG. 4, the needle selection combination may also include a row (T), wherein a weft yarn (7) is knitted. In this embodiment, there is a succession: the first row of stitches (M1), a weft row (T), the second row of stitches (M2) and then a weft row (T).

[0078] The weft yarn (7) is used to impart special properties to the knit (1), and may be of any type suitable for this purpose. In particular, the addition of a weft yarn makes it possible to control the elasticity of a textile item, especially a compression and/or support item, by imparting greater elastic strength. This may be a single-coated or double-coated yarn, for example, with an elastane core yarn and polyamide coating yarns.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the core yarn is an elastane yarn with a titre of 310 dtex, double-twisted with polyamide coating yarns with a titre of 22 dtex, comprising 20 filaments, and with false twist. In this embodiment, the two coating yarns are preferably reversed in their false-twist directions.

[0080] In the needle selection diagram shown in FIG. 4, the positions (i) are those where the needles are inactive, i.e., the weft yarn (7) is not picked by the needles and creates a float on the knit (1).

[0081] By using this diagram, the reinforcement yarn (6) of the second row of stitches (M2) is picked at positions (c) with the stitch-forming yarn (5) of the next row of stitches (M1).

[0082] In this way, it is possible to obtain a functionalised knit (1), for example, in a compression and/or support item having superior elastic strength, further comprising dense zones (2) that are significantly denser than the rest of the knit (1) and which have a satisfactory aesthetic appearance when worn, i.e., there are no stripes or striations despite the fact that the reinforcing yarn (6) is inserted only every other row of stitches.

[0083] The space between the row of stitches (M1, M2) where the weft yarn is inserted is called the weft row (T).

[0084] For this first aesthetic use, in the case where the knit includes a weft yarn, the weft yarn (T) is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float (i) that corresponds to the needle that knitted a stitch (m) on the first row of stitches (M1). As a result, the weft yarn lies between the first row of stitches (M1) and the second row of stitches (M2), and also between the second row of stitches (M2) and the first row of stitches (M1). The weft yarn (7) is only picked every other needle. This creates a columnar alignment between the stitch (m) in the first row of stitches (M1) and the float (i) in the weft row (T). The floats of the weft yarn (i) are staggered (i.e., on opposite needles, or offset) in relation to the next weft row. In other words, the floats (i) are offset relative to each other, from one row of weft (T) to the next, such that at each row of weft (T) loads (c) alternate with floats (i) in the same column. The result is a uniform, smooth appearance, with no ribbing.

[0085] The textile item (3) may be a compression and/or support article, for example for medical purposes. In this case, the knit of item (1) preferably comprises a weft yarn (7).

[0086] The textile item (3) may also be stockings, socks or tights, i.e., for non-medical use. In this case, the knit generally comprises no weft yarn (7). In the second preferred use, dense zones are used to reinforce the knit. Improved strength is particularly advantageous in regions of the knit subjected to high mechanical stress when the item is worn, such as the sole of a sock.

[0087] This second use is shown by the stitch diagram in FIG. 8.

[0088] FIG. 11 is a partial view of the shape of the dense zone of the knit (1) intended for the manufacture of a textile item (3) as shown in FIG. 12. A large, dense zone (2) is provided over the entire surface area coming into contact with the heel, arch and toes of an individual intended to wear the item. The textile item (3) shown is, but is not limited to, socks. It may be socks, stockings or tights, for example. The large, dense zone (2) shown thus reinforces the textile item (3) where it is most subject to wear, in this case, during walking.

[0089] FIG. 13 shows another textile item (3) comprising a knit (1) and two dense zones (2) reinforcing said knit (1) at sensitive regions, provided on surfaces intended to come into contact with the heel and toes of an individual's foot.

[0090] In this second intended use, the knit necessarily comprises a weft yarn.

[0091] As described previously, the weft yarn (7) is used to impart special properties to the knit (1), and may be of any type suitable for this purpose. In particular, the addition of a weft yarn makes it possible to control the elasticity of a textile item, especially a compression and/or support item, by imparting greater elastic strength. This may be a single-coated or double-coated yarn, for example, with an elastane core yarn and polyamide coating yarns.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the core yarn is an elastane yarn with a titre of 310 dtex, double-twisted polyamide coating yarns with a titre of 22 dtex, comprising 20 filaments, and with false twist. In this embodiment, the two coating yarns are preferably reversed in their false-twist directions.

[0093] The weft yarn (T) is inserted between each row of stitches, by creating a float (i) that corresponds to the needle that knitted a load (c) on the first row of stitches (M1). As a result, the weft yarn lies between the first row of stitches (M1) and the second row of stitches, (M2) and also between the second row of stitches (M2) and the first row of stitches (M1). The weft yarn is picked (T) only every other needle. This thus creates a columnar alignment between the load (c) of the first row of stitches (M1) and the float (i) of the weft row (T). The weft yarn floats (i) are created in the same columns on each weft row (T). In other words, the floats are created in the same columns, on each weft row (T), such that their alignment results in a ribbed appearance and further strengthens the knit.

[0094] FIGS. 9, 10A and 10B are microscopic views of the knit (1) according to the needle selections shown in FIG. 8. FIG. 9 is an external image of a dense zone (2), and FIGS. 10A and 10B are images of the inside a dense zone used to reinforce the knit (2).

[0095] FIG. 9 shows the knit (1) comprising only jersey stitches produced by the stitch-forming yarn (5), and the weft yarn (7) producing a float between two stitches, the latter being picked only every other stroke. In this case, the knit (1) is relatively fine and smooth.

[0096] FIGS. 10A and 10B show the knit, which also comprises the reinforcing yarn (6), and the arrangement of the various row of stitches (M1, M2) and weft rows (T), which imparts the dense zone (2) with the desired reinforcement and opacity.

[0097] FIGS. 10A and 10B also show that the weft yarn (7) is located on the inside of the knit (1), while the reinforcement yarn (6) is located on the outside of the knit (1), thus improving the wear resistance of the knit (1). On the other hand, the dense zone (2) is more resistant, and is in relief.

[0098] This specific knitting technique, based on the needle selections of rows M1, M2 and T as described previously, allows the added, plated yarn from the off-cuts of the second row of stitches (M2) to stand out on the outside of the finished textile article, thus improving strength.

[0099] This advantage is illustrated schematically in FIGS. 14 and 15.

[0100] FIG. 14 is a diagram showing the front view of the knit shown in FIG. 8, i.e., from the outside and therefore visible when the knit is worn.

[0101] In this figure, it can be seen that the majority of the reinforcement yarn can be knitted with the stitch-forming yarn of the second row of stitches (M2). The reinforcing yarn therefore stands out visually on this side of the knit. This is due, as previously described, to the selection of stitch-type and load-type needles in the first row of stitches (M1), in combination with the placement of the weft yarn (7) inside the sinker loops of the second row of stitches (M2).

[0102] FIG. 15 is a diagram showing the reverse side of the knit shown in FIG. 8, i.e., the inner side facing the wearer when the knit is worn.

[0103] In this figure, most of the stitch-forming yarn from the first row of stitches (M1) and the weft yarn (7) are visible. The stitch-forming yarn of the first row of stitches (M1) and the weft yarn (7) therefore stand out visually on this side of the knit.

[0104] Thus, the selection of particular needles for the weft yarn and the selective placement of loads every other needle on the stitch-forming yarn of the first row of stitches (M1), allow the reinforcing yarn knitted in plating M2 to stand out on the outside of the knit to provide greater strength.

[0105] The textile item is necessarily a compression and/or support item, for example, for medical purposes, because the constituent knit (1) of the item comprises a weft yarn (7).

[0106] The textile item (3) produced in this way is reinforced in the zones most subject to wear and tear. The textile item (3) according to the invention therefore has a longer service life, without compromising its manufacturing cost, because the knitting method according to the invention does not impact production rates or reject rates, unlike methods of the prior art.

[0107] Both when knitting dense zones for aesthetic purposes and when knitting dense zones to reinforce the knit, clearly, those skilled in the art may adapt the number and shape of the dense zones (2) according to the type of knit and item they wish to produce.

[0108] In a variant not shown in connection with the two intended uses of dense zones, the combination of needle selections may involve another alternation of stitch rows and weft rows. For example, the rhythm may be: [0109] first row of stitches (M1), second row of stitches (M2), weft row (T), and so on; [0110] first row of stitches (M1), weft row (T), second row of stitches (M2), and so on; [0111] or any other functional combination chosen by those skilled in the art, while respecting the alternation in each row of stitches, of a first row of jersey stitches (M1) and a second row of jersey stitches (M2).

[0112] The yarns used may be adapted to the intended use of the knit (1). Their counts, compositions and material(s) may therefore be different.

[0113] Furthermore, the technical characteristics of the various embodiments and variants mentioned above can be combined in their entirety or only in part. Thus, the method and the knit may be adapted depending on the desired cost, functions and performance.