Hair treatment process
12053072 ยท 2024-08-06
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A45D19/005
HUMAN NECESSITIES
E03C1/055
FIXED CONSTRUCTIONS
E03C1/046
FIXED CONSTRUCTIONS
International classification
A45D19/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
E03C1/046
FIXED CONSTRUCTIONS
Abstract
A process for treating, especially for washing, the hair, including applying at least one cosmetic active ingredient to the head of hair using a dispensing device. The dispensing device including a hand piece preferably having at least two nozzles, the jets of which collide with one another, to form a mixture of water and of the active ingredient, this mixture originating from a collection basin arranged below the user's head.
Claims
1. A process for treating hair, comprising: a) applying at least one cosmetic active ingredient to the hair, b) applying to the hair, using a dispensing device comprising a hand piece comprising at least two nozzles, a mixture of water and of said active ingredient, said mixture originating from a collection basin arranged below the user's head jets of the at least two nozzles colliding with one another, the nozzles being supplied under pressure, at a pressure of between 3 and 25 bar above atmospheric pressure, the device being arranged to operate according to at least two modes, namely a first mode in which the device dispenses a fluid without recycling, and a second mode in which the device dispenses a fluid withdrawn from the collection basin, a passage from the first mode to the second occurring automatically.
2. The process as claimed in claim 1, the cosmetic active ingredient being chosen from surfactants, compounds for dyeing or bleaching the hair, compounds for permanently changing the shape of the hair, hair care active ingredients comprising cationic polymers, fatty substances comprising fatty alcohols, scalp care active ingredients comprising antidandruff agents, anti-hair loss agents and fragrances.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1, the active ingredient being a surfactant.
4. The process as claimed in claim 1, the dispensing device comprising a pump for supplying the hand piece under pressure.
5. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising at least one buffer tank, and at least one pipe to withdraw the contents of said buffer tank and recycle the contents towards the hand piece.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1, the device comprising at least one first buffer tank and a second buffer tank and at least one first routing element for orienting the contents of the collection basin towards one or the other of said tanks, and at least one circuit for withdrawing the contents of a selected buffer tank in order to recycle it towards the hand piece.
7. The process as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least one circuit for recycling the contents of the collection basin towards the hand piece and a circuit for draining to waste water, and a circuit for supplying water or a mixture of water and active ingredient, and at least one routing element for selectively activating at least one of said circuits.
8. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the device comprises a circuit for supplying water, a tank comprising the active ingredient, and at least one injection line for injecting the active ingredient contained in the tank into the water circulating in the water supply circuit.
9. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the device comprises a circuit for supplying water, at least one first tank comprising a first active ingredient, and at least one first injection line for injecting the active ingredient contained in this first tank into the water circulating in the water supply circuit, at least one second tank comprising a second active ingredient, and at least one second injection line for injecting the active ingredient contained in this second tank into the water circulating in the water supply circuit.
10. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein water and the active ingredient are placed in the collection basin and then the recirculation of the collection basin towards the hand piece is started.
11. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein, in step a), the active ingredient is initially applied in the form of a mixture of water and of said active ingredient.
12. The process as claimed in claim 1, the fluid dispensed in the first mode being water, the active ingredient, being applied beforehand to the hair.
13. The process as claimed in claim 1, the device being arranged to pass into a third mode of operation, after the end of the recycling of the liquid originating from the collection basin, in which water without said active ingredient is conveyed onto the hair in order to rinse the hair, as soon as the recycling ends, or being manually controlled, by action of the user on a control member.
14. The process as claimed in claim 1, the device being arranged to enable an injection of water into the recycled liquid in order to decrease the content of active ingredient in the flow sent back towards the hair, and to gradually rinse the hair.
15. A system for treating a head of hair, comprising: a dispensing device comprising a hand piece, the dispensing device comprising at least two nozzles, jets of the at least two nozzles colliding with one another and the nozzles supplied under pressure of between 3 and 25 bar above atmospheric pressure, said dispensing device comprising at least one pump for recycling, towards the hand piece, a liquid originating from a collection basin and a user's head arranged above the collection basin for the treatment of their head of hair, the device being arranged to operate according to at least two modes, namely a first mode in which the device dispenses a fluid without recycling, and a second mode in which the device dispenses a fluid withdrawn from the collection basin, a passage from the first mode to the second occurring automatically.
16. The treatment system as claimed in claim 15, further comprising the collection basin.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
(1) The invention may be understood more clearly from reading the following detailed description of non-limiting exemplary embodiments thereof and from studying the appended drawing, in which:
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
(14)
(15) The collection basin may be of the same type as those used currently in hairdressing salons, being arranged to accommodate the user's head and enable the washing of their hair, the liquid poured onto the hair running into the basin by gravity.
(16) The basin 20 can be produced from plastic.
(17) It is arranged to channel the flow to a bung, the latter possibly being fitted with a siphon.
(18) As can be seen in
(19) The hand piece may be produced in accordance with the teaching of publication EP 1 954 893 B1 from Creaholic SA, which teaches generating a flow from two jets encountering one another.
(20) The hand piece 11 may have a cavity 89 opened to the outside, within which the jets emitted by the nozzles 13 encounter one another, as illustrated in
(21) The speed of the drops, measured at the opening of the cavity 89, in the axis thereof, can be greater than or equal to 8 m/s.
(22) The dispensing device 11 comprises a pump 14, for example of centrifugal type.
(23) The hand piece 11 is fed, in the example of
(24) The basin 20 is fitted with a routing element 22, which makes it possible to direct the contents thereof towards a drain 23 for waste water when it is not desired to recycle it towards the pump 14.
(25) The dispensing device 10 has a supply circuit 15, which may be a simple hose in one exemplary implementation of the invention, possibly provided with a supply valve.
(26) In the example of
(27) The hairdresser manually applies a shampoo to the head of hair. He or she may optionally foam it using their fingers. He or she then sends water into the collection basin 20, at an amount of 200 mL, for example using the hose 15, which in this example opens into the basin 20.
(28) He or she then uses the hand piece 11 of the low-flow dispensing device, pumping the liquid into the collection basin 20. Due to the pressure and the fragmentation of the jets, the water foams on the head of hair. The fluid trickling into the basin 20 is recycled by pumping by virtue of the pump 14, to be dispensed on the head of hair by the hand piece. Satisfactory foam is observed. Thus, it is possible, compared to a conventional shampoo application, to use a smaller amount of product, possibly as little as 3 g instead of the usual 10, assuming a typical shampoo formulation based on 15% by weight of anionic surfactant of Lauryl Ether Sulfate type, relative to the total weight of the shampoo. When the user has obtained a satisfactory foam, after possible rubbing with the hands, he or she can use the hose 15 to rinse the hair or, better still, the hand piece 11. He or she must then, if they wish to use the hand piece 11, empty the collection basin 20 then re-close it, fill it with water, for example 1 l, and use the pump 14 to rinse the hair. He or she may then start this rinsing phase again as many times as necessary, by once again emptying the collection basin 20, re-closing it and starting the operation for pumping the water contained in the basin again, to pour it over the hair.
(29) By comparison, if such an assembly was carried out without the dispensing device according to the invention but with a conventional head typically dispensing 10 L/min, it would be observed that it is not possible to reduce the amount of surfactant used, due to a lack of obtaining sufficient foam. The 3 g of shampoo used in the invention would not make it possible to obtain a good foam during the first phase and the second phase, during which the contents of the basin is returned towards the hand piece, would not amplify the foaming. Thus, the hairdresser would be inconvenienced by not obtaining an acceptable foam and would consider that they had not carried out satisfactory shampooing.
(30) In the situations in which the hairdresser does not have a mains supply of water, he or she may pour water into the collection basin using another container such as a cup.
(31) In the example of
(32) The hand piece 11 is thus connected firstly to the pump 14 which ensures the recycling and secondly to the supply 15 of mains water. A system of solenoid valves or valves (not shown) may be provided to make it possible to open or close the supply 15 and the pipe connecting the hand piece 11 to the pump 14, depending on the operating phase.
(33) The hairdresser may apply a mixture of water and surfactant in the collection basin 20. He or she then uses the device 10 by dispensing, with the hand piece 11, the liquid pumped into the collection basin 20, for example via a hose 25 submerged in the basin, as illustrated, connected to the suction of the pump 14. The water which trickles from the head of hair into the basin 20 is then returned to the head of hair by pumping. It is observed that it is possible, compared to a conventional shampoo application, to use a smaller amount of product, possibly as little as 3 g instead of the usual 10. To carry out the rinsing, it is possible, without absolutely having to empty the collection basin, to rinse the hair with water originating from the supply 15.
(34) The treatment system can be improved using two collection means, namely the basin 20 and a buffer tank 30 connected to the basin 20, such that the contents of the basin 20 flows into the tank 30 by gravity, as illustrated in
(35) Such a variant makes it possible to carry out the two processes, either semi-automatic or automatic, described above without risking the head of hair being soaked in water more or less loaded with surfactant present in the basin 20, which is advantageous for long heads of hair.
(36) In the example of
(37) The volume of the buffer tank 30 is for example between 5 and 10 000 mL, preferably from 20 to 1000 mL.
(38) In the variant of
(39) The suction of the pump 14 is connected to a routing element 35 which makes it possible to either connect it to the water supply 15 or to the return pipe 36, communicating with the buffer tank 30 via the routing element 34.
(40) To use the device 10 of
(41) Preferably, the routing elements 34 and 35 are automatically controlled, for example by being connected to the same control system or to one another, in order to simplify the control thereof. In particular, the routing elements 34 and 35 and also the pump 14 may be placed in the same location, for example integrated in the same housing.
(42) In the example of
(43) This makes it possible to store the mixture of water and surfactant for a subsequent use, such as carrying out a second round of washing.
(44) In the semi-automatic mode, the shampoo can be applied, and the routing element 35 can be actuated in order that the hand piece 11 sends water, for example in an amount of 1 L. The routing element 34 is then controlled in order that the liquid can pass from the collection basin 20 to the buffer tank 30. The water dispensed by the hand piece 11 wets the hair and is located in the buffer tank 30. Then, the routing element 35 is actuated and the pump 14 turned on to pump the mixture of water and surfactant from the buffer tank 30 towards the hand piece 1L. Foam then forms on the head of hair. After approximately 1 minute, for example, the routing element 34 is actuated to connect the collection basin 20 to the drain 23. The routing element 35 is controlled to convey water without surfactant towards the hand piece 11, for example an amount of approximately 1.5 L. In doing so, the rinsing water is conveyed into the drain 23 and the mixture of water and surfactant is kept in the buffer tank 30. In a second step, the hairdresser can carry out a second washing operation by using the mixture present in the buffer tank 30.
(45) Other implementations are possible with additional buffer tanks, for example to set aside certain mixtures of water and surfactants, as shown in
(46) It is possible to dispense the surfactant required for the washing treatment via a controllable system for injecting this surfactant into a stream of water.
(47) In the example of
(48) The device 10 illustrated in
(49) The user fills the tank 50 with a composition comprising a surfactant, the surfactant concentration of this composition ranging for example from 0.1% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(50) It is then possible to dispense a mixture of water and surfactant to the hand piece 11 by virtue of the injection of surfactant from the tank 50 into the stream of water arriving via the pipe 15.
(51) Once the amount of water and surfactant dispensed is sufficient, for example approximately 200 ml, the recycling of the mixture of water and surfactant by means of the pump 14 can be started and the arrival of water via the pipe 15 and the injection of surfactant into the latter can be stopped.
(52) At the end of the washing, it is possible to restart the arrival of water via the pipe 15 to carry out rinsing, but without restarting the injection of surfactant from the tank 50. The operation of the pump 14 is interrupted and the rinsing water is conveyed to the drain by opening a valve 39.
(53) In the example illustrated in
(54) Continuing for 3 s, the foam develops a little. The next 100 grams of the mixture run, are recovered in the collection basin 20 and start being reinjected towards the hand piece 11. During the next 9 s, the foam increases and reaches a satisfactory level.
(55) It is then possible to stop the recirculation and rinse with clean water.
(56) Summing up, the water consumption was 1.2 L and the surfactant consumption was 0.3 g.
(57) In the exemplary implementation of
(58) The device 10 comprises two buffer tanks 40 and 41 connected by two respective pipes 38 and 39 to the pump 14, via a routing element 35, which makes it possible to select one or the other.
(59) The routing element 34 is placed upstream of the buffer tanks 40 and 41 and makes it possible to direct the drainage of the basin 20 to either the tank 40 or to the tank 41 or to the waste water drain 23.
(60) It is possible to control the routing elements 34 and 35 such that the active ingredient originating from the tank 50 is stored in the buffer tank 40 and the active ingredient originating from the tank 60 is stored in the buffer tank 41. It is possible to generalize to n tanks 50i containing respective active ingredients and n buffer tanks 40i for storing the corresponding mixtures of water and active ingredient.
(61) The invention makes it possible to use all sorts of surfactants, either natural, for example saponins, or polymeric. The surfactants may be: anionic surfactants (sulfates, ether sulfates, sulfonic, carboxylic), amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
(62) It is of note that the use of low-foaming formulations in the case of a conventional use nonetheless gives satisfactory results by virtue of the invention.
(63) Use may also be made of cationic surfactants for their care effect, generally combined with fatty alcohols. In this case, the foaming is low but the process is especially advantageous for using a minimum amount of composition.
(64) The invention may also be used for other formulations such as dyeing, permanent-waving or hair straightening products.
(65) Dyeing product should be understood as any product of use for changing the color of the head of hair, especially in a lasting manner. This may be an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a dyeing oxidant.
(66) The oxidation dye may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more coupling agents.
(67) By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and the corresponding addition salts.
(68) By way of example, the coupling agents are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and also the corresponding addition salts.
(69) The dyeing oxidant may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide; urea peroxide; alkali metal ferricyanides or bromides; peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium and magnesium; or mixtures thereof.
(70) The direct dye may be chosen from azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
(71) Permanent-waving or hair-straightening products may include compounds for permanently changing the shape of the hair.
(72) The permanent-waving product may comprise one or more active ingredients chosen from thioglycolic acid or the salts thereof (ammonium thioglycolate, also referred to as TGA), derivatives of thiolactic acid or the salts thereof (ammonium thiolactate, also referred to as TLA), cysteine or the salts thereof and the derivatives thereof, cysteamine, the salts and derivatives thereof, sulfites, bisulfites and mixtures thereof.
(73) The hair straightening product may comprise one or more active ingredients chosen from thioglycolic acid or salts thereof (ammonium thioglycolate, also referred to as TGA), derivatives of thiolactic acid or the salts thereof (ammonium thiolactate, also referred to as TLA), and strong bases such as sodium hydroxide, guanidine compounds and salts thereof, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.
(74) When at least two different active ingredients are applied successively to the head of hair, especially with recirculation of at least one active ingredient, the process may comprise the following steps A and B, preferably recirculating the active ingredient at each step A or B: A: Application of an anionic surfactant, then B: application of a nonionic surfactant,
which provides easy rinsing and soft hair; or A: Application of an anionic surfactant, then B: application of a polymeric detergent or natural surfactant,
which provides easy rinsing and very well-cleaned hair; or A: Application of an anionic surfactant, then B: application of a cationic surfactant (with fatty alcohol),
which provides easy rinsing and softened hair which is easy to disentangle; or A: Application of a carboxylic surfactant at alkaline pH, then B: application of a surfactant (any type) at acid pH,
which provides deep washing and shiny hair.
(75) The invention thus makes it possible to carry out several rounds of washing. While in reality it is possible to carry out 2 or even 3 rounds of washing, it is difficult to go further, for practical reasons and for reasons of the amount of surfactant to be used. However, by virtue of automating the control of the routing elements in particular, the invention makes it possible to carry out 2, 3, 4, 5 or more rounds of washing.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
(76) A treatment system according to the invention was used, in which the dispensing device 10 dispenses 2 l/min. To carry out the test, the device was used with a supply of clean water and a pump 14 set at 12 bar. A collection basin and a reserve of clean water formed for example of a tub filled with water are used. The device is similar to that shown in
(77) The test takes place on a malleable head previously soiled with sebum. 1 g of sebum is used, spread over the whole head of hair.
(78) As surfactant, use is made of a formula A comprising 15% by weight of LES (sodium lauryl ether sulfate) surfactant diluted in water.
(79) TABLE-US-00001 Lauryl ether sulfate at 70% in water (TEXAPON N702 15% (AM) from BASF) Citric acid q.s. pH 5.5 Water q.s. 100%
Side Treated According to the Invention
(80) 2 g of the formula A are applied by hand to one half of the malleable head. The supply of the device 10 is then placed in the tub. The device is operated for 9 seconds to pour water over the head of hair. Then, the supply of the device is moved, placing it at the bottom of the basin 20. The device is restarted by starting the pump 14. The device is operated in this way for 30 seconds. The drain of the basin is then opened, and the supply of the device is replaced in the tub. Rinsing is carried out with water from the tub for 1 minute (i.e. 2 L of water).
(81) Side Used as a Reference
(82) 4 g of the formula A are applied by hand to the other half of the malleable head. Foaming is then carried out by hand. The drain of the basin is then opened, and rinsing is carried out with a conventional jet of water for 1 minute, consuming approximately 10 L of water.
(83) Result
(84) Better foam was obtained on the side treated according to the invention, as well as satisfactory cleaning, since greasy areas are no longer observed, with a lower consumption of water.
Example 2
(85) The same device is used as in example 1.
(86) The test is carried out on a malleable head soiled in the same way. Use is made of a washing formula B:
(87) TABLE-US-00002 Lauryl ether sulfate at 70% in water (TEXAPON N702 17% (AM) from BASF) Cocoyl betaine at 30% in water (Dehyton AB 30) 3% (AM) Citric acid q.s. pH 5.5 Water q.s. 100%
(88) One half of the head is treated as in example 1.
(89) By way of comparison, 2 g of the formula B are manually applied to the other half of the malleable head, and then the supply of the device is placed in the tub, setting it to reach 10 L/min. The device is operated for 9 seconds. Subsequently, the supply of the device is moved, placing it at the bottom of the collection basin 20. The device 10 is restarted by starting the pump. The device is operated in this way for 30 seconds, then the drain of the basin is opened, and the supply of the device is replaced in the tub. Rinsing is carried out for 1 minute with 2 liters of water.
(90) Result
(91) A better foam was obtained on the side treated according to example 1 as well as more efficient cleaning, which shows the advantage of dispensing the flow on the hair with a relatively low flow rate.
Example 3
(92) The set-up of example 1 is produced.
(93) The hairdresser applies formula A to the dry head of hair (2 g of formula A, i.e. 0.3 of surfactant LES). He or she then directs 300 ml of water to the head of hair, which arrives in part (about 200 mL) in the collection basin 20. He or she then uses the low-flow dispensing device, pumping the liquid present in the collection basin. After 30 seconds, abundant foam is obtained. After rinsing, the hair is observed to be well washed.
Example 4
(94) Use is made of the treatment system as described in
(95) The following formula C is prepared:
(96) TABLE-US-00003 Lauryl ether sulfate at 70% in water (TEXAPON N702 1% (AM) from BASF) Water q.s. 100%
(97) The hairdresser applies 250 mL of formula C to the bottom of the basin, i.e. 2.5 g of LES surfactant. He or she then uses the low-flow dispensing device, pumping the liquid in the collection basin. After 22 seconds, abundant foam is obtained. Finally, rinsing is carried out.
Example 5: Wash/Care Protocol
(98) Use is made of a malleable head of previously bleached hair, soiled beforehand with 2 g of sebum.
(99) The following formulae D and E are produced:
(100) TABLE-US-00004 APG ALKYL (C8/C10/C12/C14 34/24/29/10) POLYGLUCO- SIDE (1.4) IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 53% (Plantacare 2000 UP (BASF 2% AM) Water q.s. 100%
(101) TABLE-US-00005 Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 1% (Genamin KDMP sold by Clariant) Cetylstearyl alcohol 2% (C16/C18 at the relative amount of 30/70) (sold by Industria Quimica del Centro) White mineral oil 1% (Marcol 82 sold by Exxonmobil Chemicals) Citric acid q.s. pH 4.5 Water q.s. 100%
(102) Use is made of the system from
(103) Step 1 and step 2 are subsequently started again, this time using the mixture stored in the corresponding buffer tank and by pumping into the latter.
(104) Hair that is very well washed and easy to disentangle is obtained.
Example 6: Washing Protocol with Two Surfactants
(105) Use is made of a malleable head of natural brown hair, soiled beforehand with 1 g of sebum.
(106) The following formulae F and G are produced:
(107) TABLE-US-00006 Potassium hydroxide soap at 30% in water 2% (AM) (sold by Auxi Chimique under the name Savon Liquide Base, and under the INCI name Potassium hydroxide and sunflower seed acid and coconut acid) MEA/Citric acid buffer q.s. pH 10 Water q.s. 100%
(108) TABLE-US-00007 Lauryl ether sulfate at 70% in water (TEXAPON N702 2.5% (AM) from BASF) Coco betaine at 30% in water (Dehyton AB 30) 2.5% (AM) Citric acid q.s. pH 5.5 Water q.s. 100%
(109) Use is made of the set-up of
(110) He or she then stops the water arrival and the injection and starts the pump 14, which draws up the liquid in the collection basin 20 and returns it to the head of hair. After 20 seconds, very abundant foam is obtained. Finally, he or she opens the bung of the basin and rinses with 1 l of water.
(111) Hair that is very well washed and easy to disentangle is obtained. Unlike the result usually obtained with soaps, the hair is not whitish or dull.
Example 7: Washing Protocol with a Lot of Foam
(112) Use is made of a malleable head of previously bleached hair, soiled beforehand with 2 g of sebum.
(113) Use is made of formula G from example 6, and formula H is produced:
(114) TABLE-US-00008 Cocoyl glutamate 2% by weight Water q.s. 100%
(115) Use is made of the set-up of
(116) A treatment producing a lot of foam is obtained, despite using a small amount of surfactant.