STRUCTURE AND PROCEDURE FOR MAKING A SHOE WITH KNITTED UPPER

Abstract

A procedure for making a shoe including steps of weaving/construction of an upper, forming the upper in which two previously constructed stockings are a tube that is closed on one side while the other end of the tube remains open, subjecting the upper to a steam jet that dampens and softens a thermosetting polymer yarn, and passing the upper through a high-temperature kiln. Construction of the sole entails inserting the upper into a shoe-tree of a mould, positioning the shoe-tree with the upper and closure between two rings of the mould for polyurethane injection. Because of the presence of the arch structure a barrier that limits the passage thereof to the inner part of the upper, with filling of the mould, passage of predetermined quantities of polyurethane only through the slots of the arch structure permitting joint points to be created between the sole and upper and with the inner.

Claims

1. Procedure for making a shoe with knitted upper comprising the following steps: a first step of weaving/construction of an upper which is made by making a double stocking, a second step that provides forming the upper in which the two previously constructed stockings are a sort of “tube” that is closed on one side (the tip closed in weaving), whilst the other end of the tube remains open, and the inner stocking is placed on a suitable shoe-tree and the outer stocking is turned on the preceding stocking to form a double layer, a steam step where the upper on the shoe-tree is subjected to a steam jet that dampens and softens a thermosetting polymer yarn of which it consists, a drying step in which the upper is passed through a high-temperature kiln to dry off the residual humidity of the preceding step and make the upper return to the desired dimensions by taking thermosetting polymeric yarn to the melting temperature, a parking step in which the upper on the shoe-tree exits a kiln and transits on a roller conveyor yielding heat to the environment to lower the temperature thereof, a stabilization step in which the upper on the shoe-tree transits through a very low-temperature refrigerator that stabilizes the thermosetting polymer yarn to fix the upper dimensionally, a step of removal of the upper from the shoe-tree in which, when the upper is at ambient temperature, it is removed from the shoe-tree, during the step of forming the upper, an insole is positioned that has an arch structure that is able to cover the entire area of the shoe-tree and extends uniformly on the sides of the shoe-tree, being slightly higher than the profile of the future sole, said insole being made of thermoformed felt and having a series of slots of suitable shape and position, once the upper is removed from the shoe-tree, it is ready for the construction of a sole in which the following steps are provided: insertion of the upper into a suitable shoe-tree of a mould, positioning of the shoe-tree with the upper and closure between two rings of the mould for a step of polyurethane injection, in which the rings of the mould for the sole close to enclose the upper partially, so as to form a cavity insulated from the exterior that is suitable for injecting the polyurethane and constituting the sole, polyurethane injection—that, because of the presence of the arch structure, finds a barrier that limits the passage thereof to the inner part of the upper, with filling of the mould, passage of predetermined quantities of polyurethane only through the slots of the arch structure permitting joint points to be created between the sole and upper and with the inner stocking without interfering and without altering either the functional or aesthetic features, opening of the rings of the mould once the injection step has terminated, removal of the complete shoe (upper+sole) from the mould and removal from the shoe-tree, said procedure creates a shoe that is a single, homogeneous and compact body.

2. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein, during making of the upper, in the weave an additional thermosetting polymeric yarn is added to the yarns that is inserted into both stockings in well-defined areas and with different densities so as to provide different properties of elasticity, reinforcement and breathability and in the outer stocking thermosetting polymeric yarn is used in a higher percentage to give greater hardness and resistance to the structure of the upper and said polymeric yarn, used in processing, can be used as a binder between the two stockings that joined together will constitute the upper as if it were a single piece.

3. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein in the step of putting the upper on the shoe-tree, the first stocking is initially inserted with a closed end on the shoe-tree and subsequently an insert is positioned that is made of rubber or other material that is equivalent and suitable so that it acts as padding, (collar) to reinforce and toughen the rear edge of the shoe and the second stocking with the open end is then pulled above the first stocking to cover totally the shoe-tree and once the two stockings have been coupled, the outer stocking is retracted on the shoe-tree so as to uncover the portion corresponding to the inner sole to enable a reinforcement to be inserted for the heel.

4. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein in the step of putting the upper on the shoe-tree, once the insole is positioned, the outer stocking is then pulled and repositioned to close the upper, adapting perfectly to the shoe-tree until the open edge is brought to the lower portion at the level of the toes of the foot.

5. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein in the step of placing the upper onto a suitable shoe-tree of a mould, possible components to be overprinted are positioned on the upper and fixed by gluing.

6. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein, during the injection step, the passage of the polyurethane occurs minimally and in a controlled and managed manner through the slots of the insole and the polyurethane that passes creates a uniform adhesion bridge between the inner stocking of the upper and the sole injected on the upper to form holding hooks.

7. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein the two stockings make up the upper with a double layer where a stocking constitutes the exterior of the upper and is made by using natural, synthetic and/or mixed yarns whilst the other stocking constitutes, on the other hand, the interior of the upper and mainly consists of yarns of a different type, preferably natural like wool to provide other functions like: breathability, comfort, thermal insulation, etc).

8. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein a step is provided of trimming possible moulding runs from the sole.

9. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein during the construction/weaving of the double stocking, in the side portion of the foot (fit) a series is made of ribs that are obtained with a particular weave that have the task of giving stability to the foot inside the shoe because they create a sort of support and grip of the side part of the foot, thus making intermediate reinforcing and protection elements redundant.

10. The procedure according to claim 1, wherein during the construction/weaving of the double stocking, processing is carried out that creates an X structure which enables the upper to be given a significant and optimum binding of the foot where the X structure has the cross positioned in the instep of the foot and the sides are arranged in front of the sides of the toes of the foot and the X behind has the function of giving the foot containment and stability.

11. The procedure according to claim 1, characterized in that during the injection step of injecting the polyurethane material to make the sole, the arch structure is able to receive the material so that a good joint is created between the outer stocking, arch structure and sole whilst holding hooks are formed where there are slots.

12. Shoe made with the procedure according to claim 1, wherein it comprises an upper formed by a pair of stockings, one overturned on the other, where inside the stockings, a heel reinforcing element for protecting and stiffening the heel is located and a padding element of the collar and an arch structure that is shaped, variable and modulable according to the desired sole profile that it is desired to obtain as an aesthetic aspect, since the profile/section of the arch structure is always parallel to the shape of a sole and has the lateral edge with a preset portion above the level of the sole, said upper having a distribution of thermoset yarn, the distribution being studied and calibrated for every single portion of the footwear which gives the upper structural and functional features that are very focused and details joined to multiple types of processing so that it is completely seamless (without any stitching), is made with reverse processing (i.e. on the back of the fabric) which enables the structure to be diversified with particular retained yarn features suitable for varying the regularity thereof to obtain a three-dimensional weave that gives the shoe structural and functional features, said knitted upper having good intrinsic flexibility that—combined with a rather thin injected sole and because of the very flexible process—makes the shoe very light and flexible.

13. The shoe according to claim 11, wherein the arch structure is shaped, has an arched zone that follows the conformation of the plantar arch and has the lateral edge that enables both the foot of the user to be protected and the inner stocking to be protected that that makes the upper, the surface of said arch structure being provided with a plurality of slots that are suitably shaped and positioned, that have a precise function of creating points or sectors on the basis of the fixing and gripping dimension of the stockings together and with the arch structure and the sole making everything a single body.

14. The shoe according to claim 11, wherein the arch structure is thermoformed to adapt to the shape of the foot, has the lateral edge that enables the outer stocking to be received and the portion that is folded to reduce wear to be protected and greater comfort and sense of protection and grip to be given to the foot and the lateral edge of the arch structure creates a raiser for the upper that is so positioned as to be continuous between the sole and upper, thus creating a uniform and continuous profile, said arch structure being a selective filter, a membrane that enables different properties to be obtained according to the holes, shape and size.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0028] Further features and advantages will be clearer from the detailed description of a structure and procedure for making a shoe with knitted upper, according to the present invention, made here below with reference to the attached drawings, which are provided merely by way of example and are thus not limiting, in which:

[0029] FIG. 1 shows schematically and in a lateral view a shoe obtained with the procedure according to the present invention;

[0030] FIG. 2 shows schematically a bottom view of the upper of the shoe in FIG. 1;

[0031] FIG. 3 shows schematically the shoe with the upper that comes into contact with the sole;

[0032] FIGS. 3A and 3B show schematically and in a side view two different versions of sole;

[0033] FIG. 4 shows schematically a detail of an element of the shoe of FIG. 1;

[0034] FIG. 5 shows schematically and in an exploded view the components of the shoe obtained with the procedure in question;

[0035] FIG. 6 shows in section an enlarged detail of the shoe in FIG. 1;

[0036] FIG. 7 shows schematically and in a sectioned lateral view the shoe in FIG. 1;

[0037] FIG. 8 shows a bottom view of the element in FIG. 4.

[0038] With reference to the cited figures, and in particular to FIG. 1, a shoe 1 with an upper and sole obtained according to the present invention has been indicated overall.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0039] The procedure for making a shoe with knitted upper provides a sequence of steps, some of which have already been used to make shoes currently on the market.

[0040] In a first step there is the weaving/construction of an upper 2 which is made by making a double stocking starting from the tip of the foot, which is closed directly by the machine, to continue with the portion of the foot to reach the heel and end with an edge and continue with a sequence of parts opposite those previously made or second edge, heel, and portion of the foot to terminate with a second tip that is not however closed.

[0041] The two stockings make up the upper with a double layer as if it were a double skin where one stocking constitutes the exterior of the upper and is made by using natural, synthetic and/or mixed yarns whilst the other stocking constitutes, on the other hand, the interior of the upper and mainly consists of yarns of a different type, which are preferably natural like, for example, wool to provide other functions like: breathability, comfort, thermal insulation, etc). In addition to the yarns that have just been cited, during the entire production of the upper, an additional thermosetting polymeric yarn is added to the weave that is inserted into both stockings in well-defined areas and with differentiated densities so as to provide differentiated properties of elasticity, reinforcement and breathability as shown in FIG. 1. More in detail, in the outer stocking, thermosetting polymeric yarn is used in a higher percentage, which will give greater durability and resistance to the structure of the upper.

[0042] In addition, this enables this polymeric yarn used in the processing to act as a binder between the two stockings that joined together will constitute the upper as if it were a single piece.

[0043] The second step is forming the upper. In this step, the two previously constructed stockings are a sort of “tube” that is closed on one side (the tip closed during processing), whilst the other end of the tube remains open. In this step, the inner stocking is arranged on a suitable shoe tree and the outer stocking is rotated on the preceding one to form the upper consisting of a double layer. More in detail, the first stocking is initially placed with a closed end onto the shoe-tree and subsequently an insert 3 made of rubber or other equivalent and suitable material is placed so that it acts as padding, (collar) to reinforce and toughen the rear edge of the shoe. The second stocking with an open end is then pulled over the first to totally cover the shoe-tree. Once the two stockings have been coupled, the outer stocking is made to retreat onto the shoe-tree so as to uncover the portion corresponding to the inner sole to enable a reinforcement 4 for the heel to be interposed between the two in a known manner.

[0044] In the present embodiment, an insole 5 is positioned that has an arch structure that is able to cover the entire area of the shoe-tree and extends uniformly on the sides of the shoe-tree. The insole is so configured as to cover the shoe-tree and protrude slightly from the profile of the future sole, as shown in FIG. 3B.

[0045] The inserted insole 5 is made of thermoformed felt and has a series of slots 50 of suitable shape and position, the function of which will be illustrated below.

[0046] The outer stocking is then pulled and repositioned to close the upper by adapting perfectly to the shoe-tree until the open edge 20 is taken to the lower portion at the attachment of the toes of the foot as shown in FIG. 2.

[0047] The two steps that follow are of known type in which the first defined as the upper on the shoe-tree is subjected to a steam jet that dampens and softens the thermosetting polymer yarn. This step enables the upper to adhere better to the shoe-tree and to prepare the upper for the subsequent step in which it is passed through a high-temperature kiln to enable the residual humidity of the preceding step to dry off the upper and enable the upper to return to the desired dimensions by taking the thermosetting polymeric yarn to the melting temperature.

[0048] This point is followed by a step defined as the parking step, which is a transition step between the preceding step and the subsequent step in which the upper on the shoe-tree exits the kiln and transits on a roller conveyor, yielding heat to the environment to lower the temperature of the upper before moving to the subsequent step of stabilization in which the temperature is lowered further.

[0049] More in detail, the parking step is a transition step with the task of avoiding too sharp a thermal shock between the step of passing into the kiln and the following step of stabilization.

[0050] In the stabilization step, the upper on the shoe-tree transits through a very low-temperature refrigerator that stabilizes thermosetting polymer yarn and with this step the upper is fixed dimensionally. When the upper is in equilibrium with the ambient temperature, it is removed from the shoe-tree and is ready for the subsequent steps.

[0051] In the steps that follow, a sole 7 is constructed on the upper by polyurethane injection moulding.

[0052] The upper is placed on a shoe-tree of the mould where possible components to be overprinted can be positioned on the upper and fixed by gluing.

[0053] The upper on the shoe-tree is placed in position to be subsequently closed between two rings of the mould during the step of polyurethane injection 6.

[0054] The rings of the mould for the sole are closed to enclose the upper partially, so as to form a cavity insulated from the exterior that is suitable for injecting the polyurethane and constituting the sole.

[0055] Once everything has been prepared as illustrated before, injection of the polyurethane 6 starts that, because of the presence of the arch structure 5, finds a barrier that limits the transit thereof to the inner part of the upper.

[0056] More in detail, the conformation of the arch structure 5 prevents the injected polyurethane of the sole passing to the inner stocking. but enables only predetermined quantities of polyurethane to be passed through the slots 50. The quantity of material that passes through the slots enables the joint points to be created between the sole and upper and, in particular, with the inner stocking as shown in FIG. 6.

[0057] Without the presence of the arch structure, as configured, an excessive quantity of polyurethane would filter through the upper, altering the functional and aesthetic features thereof. More precisely, the polyurethane passes, but only minimally, through the slots of the insole, and this transit is controlled and managed; the polyurethane that passes creates a uniform adhesion bridge between the inner stocking of the upper and the sole injected onto the upper to form the holding hooks 60.

[0058] Once the injection phase is over, the rings of the mould of the sole open and the shoe is complete (upper+sole) and is removed from the mould and is then taken from the shoe-tree. There is a step of trimming possible moulding runs off the sole and the shoe is ready.

[0059] The shoe that exits the procedure illustrated previously has an upper, the production process of which has multiple types of processing, is a completely seamless upper (without any stitching), is made with reverse processing (i.e. on the back of the fabric) which enables the structure to be diversified with particular retained yarn features suitable for varying the regularity thereof to obtain a three-dimensional weave that gives the shoe structural and functional features.

[0060] In particular, during construction, the stocking provides in the side portion of the foot (fit) a series of ribs obtained with a particular weave that have the task of giving stability to the foot inside the shoe because they create a sort of gripping support of the side part of the foot, thus making the intermediate reinforcing and protection elements redundant that, to the contrary, are necessary in shoes of the prior art.

[0061] In addition what has been illustrated so far, during construction of the double stocking, a process is carried out that creates an X structure 8 which enables the upper to give significant and optimum binding to the foot.

[0062] The stocking has X processing, the crossing of which is positioned in the instep of the foot and the sides are arranged in front of the sides of the toes of the foot and behind, the X has the function of giving the foot containment and stability so that, for example, a containing structure is no longer necessary, as prescribed in the United States patent application cited in the initial part of the present description.

[0063] According to the present embodiment and as already mentioned, the distribution of the thermoset yarn studied and calibrated for every single portion of the footwear gives the upper structural and functional features that are very focused and particular.

[0064] As can be extrapolated from what has been described before, the shoe that is obtained with the illustrated process comprises an upper 2 formed by a pair of stockings, one overturned on the other, where inside the stockings only stabilizing elements are located like: the heel element 4 for protecting and stiffening this part and the padding element 3 of the collar, which are of substantially known type.

[0065] In accordance with the present invention, the arch structure 5 is shaped, variable and modulable in relation to the sole profile that it is desired to obtain as an aesthetic aspect as shown in FIG. 3A.

[0066] In fact, the arch structure, in the profile/section thereof, is always parallel to the shape of the sole 7 and always has the lateral edge 51 above the level of the sole by a predetermined amount, as shown in FIG. 3A and in FIG. 3B.

[0067] Further, the arch structure, being shaped, has an arched zone that follows the conformation of the plantar arch, as shown in FIG. 3B and has the lateral edge 51 that enables both the foot of the user and the inner stocking to be protected that makes up the upper, as shown in FIG. 5.

[0068] Further, as shown in FIG. 4, the surface of the arch structure has a plurality of suitably shaped and positioned slots 50 that have a precise function of creating points or sectors on the basis of the fixing and grip dimension thereof for fixing and gripping the stockings between themselves and with the arch structure 5 and the sole 7, making everything a single body.

[0069] According to the present embodiment and as mentioned previously, the arch structure 5 is thermoformed to adapt to the shape of the foot, has lateral edges 51 that enable the outer stocking be received and the portion that is folded to reduce wear to be protected and give greater comfort and sense of protection and grip to the foot.

[0070] In particular, the lateral edge 51 of the arch structure creates a raiser for the upper that is so positioned as to be continuous between the sole and upper, providing a uniform and continuous profile.

[0071] Further, the arch structure is made of felt, recycled material, so particular attention is paid to giving new life to materials that have already been used, in addition to the fact that it offers optimum adhesion.

[0072] In particular, when the polyurethane material is injected to make the sole, the arch structure is able to receive the material so that a good joint is created between outer stocking, arch structure and sole whilst the holding hooks 60 are formed where the slots are located, as shown in FIG. 6.

[0073] In fact, the arch structure 5 becomes a selective filter, a membrane that according to the holes, to the fo111i and to the size enables different properties to be obtained.

[0074] Depending on the type of use of the shoe, differentiated stiffness or flexibility features can be given because a selective and organized transit of material is calibrated and managed to give both structural and functional specifications to the shoe.

[0075] The shoes that are currently on the market, as is also illustrated in the American patent cited in the initial part of the description, envisaged the presence—between the stockings—of an insole that was provided to give body and stability to a structure that then was meant to be glued to join the upper and sole.

[0076] According to the present invention, a knitted upper 2 is obtained that has good intrinsic flexibility that—together with an injected sole 7 that is rather thin and which is in itself and because of the method of the process itself much more flexible—makes the shoe very different from one with a moulded sole and which is then glued or stitched.

[0077] The combination of these production methods gives rise to a shoe with improved features of lightness, flexibility and grip between the parts, unlike what occurred with those made with prior-art systems.

[0078] The procedure in question is a manufacturing process that enables an object to be created that is a single, homogeneous and compact body, unlike those made until now that are merely assemblies of separate parts constructed at different moments and not in a single productive process.

[0079] As mentioned, the prior processes, having separate construction steps, gave rise to discontinuity and dishomogeneity in the structure of the shoe that with time gave rise to problems both at the level of the structural grip of the shoe and of comfort of the parts.

[0080] With the process in question, it is possible to obtain even a technical shoe in which, in the making of the sole, it is possible to insert reinforcing or lightening internal structural elements that give customized properties to the shoe, by gluing said reinforcing or lightening internal structural elements or by injected chemical gripping, depending on needs.

[0081] As mentioned previously, all the different types of structure of the upper are obtained during processing so there is no stitching that could cause annoyance, irritations or stress to the foot.

[0082] In particular. in the delicate zones of the foot there isn't stitching and there are no inserts for example for inserting laces, as occurs with current shoes so they are very practical to put on and take off.

[0083] From what has been disclosed in a mainly structural sense, the operation of the invention is as follows.

[0084] When a user intends to walk or engage in sport, the user merely has to put on a pair of shoes according to the present invention and use the shoes in a manner completely identical to those currently in use with the difference that the support in the various zones of the foot will be differentiated from sector to sector, the comfort will be optimum and diversified according to the points of the foot, the air conditioning also be different from zone to zone, the heel will be protected from shocks and blows and other parts of the foot will be helped and further supported in addition to be protected in the various movements.

[0085] The present invention thus reaches the above objectives.

[0086] With the procedure in question it is possible, in a single manufacturing sequence, to make a shoe with knitted upper and with a sole obtained by a direct injection of polyurethane owing to the presence of the arch structure interposed between the two stockings that make up the upper.

[0087] Advantageously, with the procedure according to the present invention, a shoe with knitted upper is made that has important different structures, both in terms of volume and of elasticity with an upper provided with optimum structuring of the areas that contain the foot, which areas are elasticized, stiff, breathable and structured for containment or set up for good flexure.

[0088] Further, this process enables a shoe with knitted upper to be made that is able to adapt perfectly to the shape of the foot, having differentiated functions and behaviours to meet all use requirements.

[0089] In particular, the procedure for making a shoe with knitted upper has a sole made with direct injection technology that enables the shoe to be given flexibility and lightness.

[0090] Another advantage of the process is making a shoe with knitted upper that is able to offer the user an optimum grip of the foot, excellent breathability, a decisively limited weight, a support and significant comfort when worn as well as excellent flexibility of the sole.

[0091] Further, the shoe that is obtained ensures excellent binding and grip of the foot.

[0092] The upper for footwear in question is made of a single piece, finished in the machine without discontinuity, stitching and is able to adapt perfectly to the shape of the foot, has differentiated processing and differentiated plaiting in processing that enable footwear to be obtained that offers excellent breathability with different ventilation zones and circulation of air according to needs, protection of the parts of the foot against possible blows and stress with a stiffer or more flexible weave on the basis of the need to give the foot protection and comfort.

[0093] Another advantage of the upper according to the present invention is being able to adapt perfectly to the shape the foot without annoying thicknesses that are due to the functional inserts, as occurs with the shoes of the prior art so that they improve the performance of the user because, as disturbing and annoying elements are reduced, they make the movements of the user safer.

[0094] A further advantage is due to the fact that the shoe in question is simple to make and is very functional.

[0095] Naturally, numerous amendments and variations can be made to the present invention, which are all part of the scope of the inventive concept that characterizes the invention.