PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for permanent shaping and dyeing carried out one after another with compositions providing improved and milder shaping and dyeing of hair, especially human hair. The inventors of the present invention have unexpectedly found out that when commonly used permanent shaping and dyeing compositions are mixed with another composition comprising predominantly carboxylic acids, the permanent shaping and dyeing effects of the compositions are improved, homogeneous permanent shaping and dyeing of hair fibers is achieved and natural cosmetic properties of hair are maintained.

Claims

1. Process for treating hair, especially human hair, comprising the following steps: a) hair is washed with a cleansing composition and towel dried, b) hair is applied an aqueous composition (composition A) comprising one or more reducing agents, one or more alkalizing agents and has an alkaline pH in the range of 7.5 to 12.0, and is left on hair from 1 to 30 min, c) hair is rinsed off with water d) optionally hair is applied a composition C, wherein the composition C is an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and has a pH in the range from 1.5 to 5, e) Hair is applied an aqueous composition consisting of two compositions B and C, wherein B is an aqueous composition comprising one or more hair dyes and one or more alkalizing agents and has an alkaline pH in the range of 7.1 to 12, wherein the mixed composition has an alkaline pH and is obtained by mixing the compositions B and C immediately before application onto hair and left on the hair for a period of 1 to 45 min, f) Hair is rinsed off and optionally washed with a cleansing composition and dried, wherein the composition(s) in step(s) b and/or e is (are) mixed with a composition D immediately before application onto hair for obtaining ready to use compositions, wherein the composition D comprises i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts, and ii) one or more additional organic acid and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups, wherein the composition D comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration of 10% to 100% by weight calculated to the total of composition D, wherein the ready to use compositions in steps b and/or e have a pH in the range from 6.5 to 11 and comprise the acids and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight calculated to the total of the ready to use compositions, wherein the hair is optionally put under tension before or during or after application of reducing composition in step b and the tension is released from hair before application of the composition in step e.

2. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups is selected from citric acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid and glutamate diacetate, and the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is selected from the group of acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid, wherein the composition D comprises the first acid (i) and the second acid (ii) are at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) in the range from 10:1 to 1:250.

3. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition D is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion or a solution.

4. The process according to claim 1 wherein the pH of the composition D ranges from 1 to 5, and composition D comprises an alkalizing agent.

5. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

6. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salts.

7. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition B comprises one or more oxidative dye precursors, selected from p-phenylendiamines, p-aminophenols, and heterocyclic diamines such as diaminepyrazols, and optionally one or more coupling substances selected from resorcinols, m-aminophenols, m-phenylendiamines, pyridines and its derivatives, and naphthols.

8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition(s) B and/or D comprise(s) one or more hair direct dye selected from cationic, anionic, and nitro dyes or their mixtures.

9. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition(s) A and/or B and/or D comprise(s) at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, wherein the alkalizing agents is selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethylpropanol.

10. The process according to claim 11 wherein the composition A, B, C, and/or D comprise one or more ingredients, selected from fatty alcohols, surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones, ubiquinones, ceramides, reducing agents, organic solvents, silicones such as linear polysiloxanes, aminated silicones, cyclic silicones, arylated silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, polyols.

11. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition A and/or B comprise reducing agents selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, wherein the composition A comprises the reducing agents at a concentration range from 1% to 15% by weight calculated to the total of composition A, and wherein the composition B comprises the reducing agents at a concentration range from 0.1% to 1.0% by weight calculated to the total of composition B.

12. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition D comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, having a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20 C. with a Brookfield viscometer, with an appropriate spindle.

13. The process according to claim 12 wherein the thickening polymer is selected from hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, and polymeric anionic thickeners.

14. The process according to claim 1 wherein the alkalizing agent is comprised in the composition A, B, and/or D at a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight calculated to the total of each composition.

15. Kit for hair comprising the compositions A, B, C and D as described in the claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

The Composition A

[0076]

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 21.3 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 Amodimethicone 0.2 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water ad 100.0

The Composition B

[0077]

TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Cetearyl alcohol 10.0 Cocamide MEA 4.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.5 Propylene glycol 2.0 Cetyltrimonium chloride 0.5 2,5,6-Triamino-4-hydroxypyrimidine sulphate 0.01 2,5-Diaminotoluene sulphate 0.55 4-Chlororesorcinol 0.17 Resorcinol 0.05 3-Aminophenol 0.03 Sodium sulfite 1.0 Aminomethylpropanol 2.0 Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to pH 10.0 Fragrance, preservative q.s. Water to 100

The Composition C

[0078]

TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100

The Composition D

[0079]

TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0080] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.5.

[0081] Caucasian hair of 25 cm length was obtained from Fischbach+Miller, Laupheim, Germany. The hair streaks were permanently straightened and dyed with the above compositions. First, the hair was shampooed with a Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo, towel dried and put on curlers and the reducing composition (the composition A) given above was applied onto hair after mixing with the composition D at a weight ratio of composition A to D 10:0.2 and processed for about 15 minutes. Then the composition was rinsed off from the hair and the dyeing composition obtained by mixing the compositions B, C and D at a weight ratio of 1:2:0.2 was applied onto hair. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.5. The composition was applied onto streaks of human hair and left on the hair for 30 min at ambient temperature, then rinsed off from the hair and the hair was shampooed with a Dualsenses Color Protection Shampoo and dried (inventive process).

[0082] For comparison purposes a similar process of above was applied to hair with the exception that composition D was replaced with an equal amount of water instead of composition D (comparative process).

[0083] Evenness of perm and color durability were investigated on pre-damaged hair. Damage was conferred to hair by bleaching hair with a commercially available bleaching composition under the brand Goldwell. Then, the inventive and comparative process of above was applied to hair. The result was recorded by measuring spreading of the hair streaks and calculation of a volume factor based on the spreading of hair at the root and at the tip parts. In other words, width of hair streaks were measured at their root and at their tips by placing the hair streaks on millimeter paper. A volume factor was calculated according to equation (1):

[00001]$\begin{array}{cc}\mathrm{Volumefactor}=\frac{\mathrm{Width}.Math..Math.\mathrm{at}.Math..Math.\mathrm{hair}.Math..Math.\mathrm{tips}.Math.\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}{\mathrm{Width}.Math..Math.\mathrm{at}.Math..Math.\mathrm{hair}.Math..Math.\mathrm{root}.Math.\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}& \mathrm{Equation}.Math..Math.\left(1\right)\end{array}$

[0084] Hair streaks before treatment displayed a volume factor of 1.2. As a result of the experiments, the hair treated with the inventive process had a volume factor of 1.45, whereas the hair treated with the comparative process had a volume factor of 2.63. In conclusion, the comparative process led to a much higher increase of hair volume which is definitively undesired by the customer as a result of a straightening process. The inventive process did not lead to such an increase.

[0085] Color durability was investigated by incubating the hair streaks in a shaking bath with a shaking frequency of 100 min.sup.1 for 15 min at 30 C. The water bath was filled with an aqueous solution of sodium laureth sulfate at a concentration of 5% by weight, calculated to the total of the water bath solution. Upon incubation, the hair streaks were rinsed with water and towel dried. Color results were measured prior to incubation and upon incubation by spectrophotometrical analysis with a Datacolor 45G CT instrument delivered from Datacolor Inc., Lawrenceville, N.J., USA. Based on the CIE*Lab color space results obtained by the measurements, E.sub.ab values for color difference were calculated according to equation (1):

E.sub.ab={square root over ((L.sub.2L.sub.1)+(a.sub.2a.sub.1)+(b.sub.2b.sub.1))}Equation 1

[0086] The E.sub.ab value for hair streaks treated with the inventive process was 10.93, whereas the E.sub.ab value for the hair streaks treated with the comparative process was 13.75. Lower E.sub.ab values correspond to less change in hair color upon incubation and the results clearly showed that the inventive process led to a much lower color change which differs to the comparative process by approximately 3 color units. In conclusion the presented data clearly showed the superior performance of the inventive process compared to the state-of-the-art process.

EXAMPLE 2

Intermediate Composition

[0087]

TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Magnesium sulfate 10 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

[0088] In the process disclosed with Example 1 above, the intermediate treatment composition was applied onto hair after rinsing off the reducing composition. The intermediate treatment composition was left on hair for 5 min and without rinsing it off the composition of step e was applied. The permanent shaping and dyeing results observed with the Example 1 were confirmed.

[0089] Similar results were obtained with the following compositions.

EXAMPLE 3

The Composition D

[0090]

TABLE-US-00006 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0091] The pH of the above composition D was approximately 3.6.

EXAMPLE 4

The Composition D

[0092]

TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Tetrasodium EDTA 3.0 Malic acid 13.0 Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100 pH 3.4 0.1

EXAMPLE 5

The Composition D

[0093]

TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine (MEA) 2.7 Tetrasodium EDTA 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Panthenol 0.1 Water To 100 pH 3.3 0.1

EXAMPLE 6

The Composition D

[0094]

TABLE-US-00009 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Behenamidopropyl trimonium chloride 0.2 Water to 100 pH 1.5 0.1

EXAMPLE 7

The Composition D

[0095]

TABLE-US-00010 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0 Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100 pH 2.7 0.1

EXAMPLE 8

The Composition D

[0096]

TABLE-US-00011 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Basic red 51 1.00 HC red XX 1.00 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0097] The pH of the composition was 3.5.

EXAMPLE 9

The Composition A

[0098]

TABLE-US-00012 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.9 Cystein hydrochloride 5.7 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.5 Acetylcystein 0.7 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 1,3-butylene gylcol 0.5 Amodimethicone 0.2 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 9.8 Water q.s. 100.0

[0099] The composition B and C were same as Example 1.

The Composition D

[0100]

TABLE-US-00013 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 4.0 Malic acid 17.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0101] The pH of the composition was 3.4.

EXAMPLE 10

The Composition D (Powder)

[0102]

TABLE-US-00014 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 7.0 Malic acid 92.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.0

[0103] 1 g of the composition above was added to the mixture of 30 g of composition A of example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair which was already put under tension using curlers and rinsed off after leaving it on the hair for 30 min. The hair was released from tension and the dyeing composition obtained by mixing the compositions B (20 g), C (20 g) and D (1 g) was applied onto hair and after leaving on the hair for 30 min rinsed off from hair and hair was shampooed and dried. It was observed that the hair was effectively and homogeneously curled and dyed and had its natural softness and elasticity.

EXAMPLE 11

The Composition D

[0104]

TABLE-US-00015 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0105] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 12

The Composition D

[0106]

TABLE-US-00016 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0107] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 13

The Composition D

[0108]

TABLE-US-00017 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0109] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.4.