PROCESS FOR PERMANENT SHAPING HAIR

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for improved and milder permanent shaping of hair, especially human hair. It has been found that when commonly used permanent shaping compositions are mixed with another composition comprising predominantly carboxylic acids, the permanent shaping effect of the composition is improved, homogeneous permanent shaping of hair fibers is achieved and natural cosmetic properties of hair are maintained.

Claims

1. A process for permanent shaping hair, especially human hair, comprising the following steps aoptionally washing the hair with a cleansing composition and towel drying, bapplying the ready-to-use composition obtained by mixing the compositions A and B immediately before application onto hair at a weight ratio of A to B in the range of 10:0.1 to 10:1, and leaving it on the hair for 1 to 45 min, coptionally rinsing-off the hair with water, doptionally applying an intermediate treatment composition comprising one or more inorganic salts and having a pH from 2 to 7, eapplying a fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and having a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5 and leaving it on the hair for 1 to 15 min, foptionally rinsing off from hair, goptionally drying, wherein the composition A is an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agents, one or more alkalizing agents and has a pH in the range of 7.5 to 12, and wherein the composition B comprises i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts, and ii) one or more additional organic acid and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups, wherein the composition B comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration from 10% to 100% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition B, wherein the ready-to-use composition has an alkaline pH in the range from 7.3 to 11 and comprises the acids and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total of the ready-to-use composition, wherein the hair is put under tension before, during or after application of the ready to use composition, and wherein the tension is released from hair before or during application of the fixing composition or prior to rinsing off the oxidizing agent form hair.

2. The process according to claim 1 wherein the hair is put under tension before application of the ready to use composition.

3. The process according to claim 1 wherein the tension is released from hair after rinsing off the oxidizing agent from hair.

4. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups is selected from citric acid, ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid and glutamate diacetate, and the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is selected from the group of acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid, wherein the composition B comprises the first acid (i) and the second acid (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) in the range from 10:1 to 1:250.

5. The process according claim 1 wherein the composition B is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion or a solution preferably it is an aqueous composition.

6. The process according to claim 1 wherein the pH of composition B ranges from 1 to 5, and comprises an alkalizing agent.

7. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salts.

9. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition A comprises reducing agents selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, at a concentration in the range of 1 to 15% by weight calculated to the total of composition A.

10. The process according to claim 1 wherein at least one alkalizing agent comprised in the composition(s) A and/or B is selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, wherein the at least one alkalizing agents is selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethyl-propanol.

11. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition A and/or B comprise(s) one or more ingredients, selected from fatty alcohols, surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones, ubiquinones, reducing agents, organic solvents, silicones such as linear polysiloxanes, aminated silicones, cyclic silicones, arylated silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, polyols.

12. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition B comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, with a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20 C. with a Brookfield viscometer, with an appropriate spindle.

13. The process according to claim 10 wherein the thickening polymer is selected from hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, and polymeric anionic thickeners.

14. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups of composition B is EDTA and/or its salts and the additional organic acid having one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salt.

15. Kit for hair comprising the compositions A and B as defined in claim 1, a third aqueous composition comprising an oxidizing agent, having a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5, and another composition comprising one or more inorganic salts that has a pH in the range of 2 to 7.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0083] The Composition A

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 21.3 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 5.0 1,3-butylene gylcol 3.0 Amodimethicone 0.2 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water ad 100.0

[0084] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00002 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0085] The pH of the above composition B was approximately 3.5.

[0086] Oxidizing Composition

TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100

[0087] With the compositions of above a straight perming was conducted according to the process of the present invention. Caucasian hair of 25 cm length was obtained from Fischbach+Miller, Laupheim, Germany. The reducing composition A given above was applied onto hair after mixing with the composition B at a weight ratio of composition A to B 10:0.2 and processed for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then the composition was rinsed off from hair for 3 min and the hair was blow dried. Heat was applied to hair with a flat iron set to 180 C. with a total of three strokes per hair streak. Then the oxidizing composition C was applied and processed for 10 minutes at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed with water for 1 min (inventive process).

[0088] For comparison purposes a similar process of above was applied to hair with the exception that composition B was replaced with an equal amount of water instead of composition B (comparative process).

[0089] Evenness of perm was investigated on pre-damaged hair. Damage was conferred to hair by bleaching hair with a commercially available bleaching composition under the brand Goldwell. Then, the inventive and comparative process of above was applied to separate hair streaks and processed as described above. The result was recorded by measuring spreading of the hair streaks and calculation of a volume factor based on the spreading of hair at the root and at the tip parts. In other words, width of hair streaks were measured at their root and at their tips by placing the hair streaks on millimeter paper. A volume factor was calculated according to equation (1):

[00001]$\begin{array}{cc}\mathrm{Volumefactor}=\frac{\mathrm{Width}.Math..Math.\mathrm{at}.Math..Math.\mathrm{hair}.Math..Math.\mathrm{tips}.Math.\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}{\mathrm{Width}.Math..Math.\mathrm{at}.Math..Math.\mathrm{hair}.Math..Math.\mathrm{root}.Math.\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}& \mathrm{Equation}.Math..Math.\left(1\right)\end{array}$

[0090] Hair streaks before treatment displayed a volume factor of 1.1. As a result of the treatment, the hair treated according to the inventive process had a volume factor of 1.33, whereas the hair treated according to the comparative process had a volume factor of 2.23. In conclusion, the comparative process led to a much higher increase of hair volume which is definitively undesired by the customer as a result of a straightening process. The inventive process did not lead to such an increase.

[0091] Damage reduction was investigated on virgin hair streaks which were processed three times with the inventive and comparative processes as described above. Stress-strain analysis was conducted with the hair streaks upon these treatments on 30 hair fibers.

TABLE-US-00004 Measurement Inventive Process Comparative Process number Stress [MPa] Strain [%] Stress [MPa] Strain [%] 1 25.29 10 30.59 10 2 32.94 20 38.24 20 3 47.06 30 53.53 30 4 70.88 40 84.41 40 5 86.18 45 102.94 45

[0092] The obtained data clearly showed that the hair streaks treated with the inventive process conferred the hair a much higher elasticity compared to the comparative process. For the inventive process less stress was needed to achieve a certain strain rate. This effect sustains over all investigated strain rates. Consequently the inventive process led to hair with much more desired cosmetic properties compared to the state-of-the-art process.

EXAMPLE 2

[0093] Intermediate Composition

TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Magnesium sulfate 10 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

[0094] In the process disclosed with Example 1 above, the intermediate treatment composition was applied onto hair after treating hair with heat. The intermediate treatment composition was left on hair for 5 min and without rinsing it off, then the oxidizing composition was applied. The observed straight perming results with the Example 1 were confirmed.

[0095] Similar results were obtained with the following compositions.

EXAMPLE 3

[0096] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00006 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0097] The pH of the above composition was approximately 3.6.

EXAMPLE 4

[0098] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 EDTA tetrasodium salt 3.0 Malic acid 13.0 Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100 pH 3.4 0.1

EXAMPLE 5

[0099] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine (MEA) 2.7 EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Panthenol 0.1 Water To 100 pH 3.3 0.1

EXAMPLE 6

[0100] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00009 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Behenamidopropyl 0.2 trimonium chloride Water to 100 pH 1.5 0.1

EXAMPLE 7

[0101] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00010 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0 Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100 pH 2.7 0.1

EXAMPLE 8

[0102] The Composition A

TABLE-US-00011 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.9 Cystein hydrochloride 5.7 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.5 Acetylcystein 0.7 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 1,3- butylene gylcol 0.5 Amodimethicone 0.2 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 9.8 Water q.s. 100.0

[0103] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00012 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 4.0 Malic acid 17.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition was 3.4.

EXAMPLE 9

[0104] The Composition B (Powder)

TABLE-US-00013 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 7.0 Malic acid 93.0

[0105] 1 g of the composition above was added to the mixture of 30 g of composition A of Example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair which was already put under tension using curlers and rinsed off after leaving it on the hair for 30 min. The hair was applied the intermediate composition of the Example 2 above and after leaving it for 5 min on the hair without rinsing off, the oxidizing composition of Example 1 was applied and the curlers were removed after processing of the oxidizing agent for 5 min which was followed by further processing for 5 min and rinsing off the hair with water. Then the hair was dried. It was observed that hair was effectively and homogeneously curled and had its natural softness and elasticity.

EXAMPLE 10

[0106] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00014 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 11

[0107] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00015 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 12

[0108] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00016 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.4.