Cosmetic use of an extract of balanites almonds to improve hair strength

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of a cosmetic compound to improve hair strength, said cosmetic compound comprising as an active ingredient an extract of Balanites almonds.

Claims

1. A topical cosmetic composition for improving hair strength comprising an effective amount of a hydro-alcoholic Balanites almond extract as an active agent and an effective amount of an added preservative, wherein the Balanites almond extract includes the following contents expressed as percentages by weight with respect to the extract without a drying medium: waxes: from 1% to 10%, free amino acids: 1% to 5%, proteins: from 0.5% to 10%, and total sugars: from 20% to 60%, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of a shampoo, a balm, a mask, a gel, a lotion, a foam, a spray or a cream.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of extract is between 0.05 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract is a Balanites aegyptiaca, Balanites triflora Tiegh or Balanites roxburgghii Planch extract.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said extract is a Balanites aegyptiaca, Balanites triflora Tiegh or Balanites roxburgghii Planch extract.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the Balanites almond extract includes the following contents expressed as percentages by weight with respect to the extract without a drying medium: waxes: 4% free amino acids: 2% proteins: from 1 to 5% total sugars: 28%.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the Balanites almond extract includes the following contents expressed as percentages by weight with respect to the extract without a drying medium: waxes: 4% free amino acids: 2% proteins: from 1 to 5% total sugars: 28%.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract is a Balanites aegyptiaca extract.

8. A method of improving hair strength comprising applying an effective amount of the composition of claim 1 to the hair of a subject in need thereof.

9. A method of improving hair strength comprising applying an effective amount of the composition of claim 2 to the hair of a subject in need thereof.

10. A method of improving hair strength comprising applying an effective amount of the composition of claim 3 to the hair of a subject in need thereof.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

Of Preparation OF Plant Extract According to the Invention

(1) 1 kg of Balanites almonds are extracted with 10 liters of alcohol with 80% (v/v) reflux for 1 hour under agitation.

(2) After filtration and rinsing of the pomace, the filtrate is concentrated, then dried on 750 g of maltodextrin, then stabilized by adding 0.2% alpha-tocopherol.

(3) The extract is a yellowish powder obtained with a yield of around 100% (p/p).

(4) The extract contains (value expressed without drying medium): 4% wax, 2.1% free amino acids, 1.1 to 5% proteins and 28% total sugars.

EXAMPLE 2

(5) 1 kg of Balanites almonds are extracted with 10 liters of alcohol (v/v) at room temperature for 2 hours under agitation. After filtration and rinsing of the pomace, the filtrate is concentrated to up to 2 liters (concentrate 1) and stabilized by adding butylhydroxytoluene (BHT).

(6) The alcohol-depleted pomace is extracted with 10 liters of EtOH 80% (v/v). After filtration and rinsing of the pomace, the filtrate is concentrated to up to 2 liters (concentrate 2).

(7) 0.8 liter of concentrate 2 is mixed with 0.2 liter of concentrate 1. After adding 750 g of maltodextrin, it is all dried in the Rotavapor.

(8) The extract has a composition similar to that of the extract of example 1.

(9) Examples of Cosmetic Compositions:

EXAMPLE 3

Balm to be Rinsed Out

(10) TABLE-US-00001 Balanites almond extract 0.1% Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3% Propylene glycol 0.5% Sclerotium gum 0.3% Cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl mixture 2% Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.25% Cetyl alcohol 7% Ethylhexyl palmitate 8% Dicaprylyl carbonate 2% Hydrolyzed wheat protein 2% Sorbic acid 0.3% Salicylic acid 0.15% Phenoxyethanol 0.7% Colouring agents qsf Fragrance qsf Sodium hydroxide qsf Purified water qsf

EXAMPLE 4

Shampoo

(11) TABLE-US-00002 Balanites almond extract 0.1% Hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.5% PEG-7 glycerol cocoate 8% Ethoxylated olive oil 3% (Poly)quaternium-10 0.5% Decyl glucoside 2% Na lauroyl methyl isethionate 2% Sodium laureth sulfate 13% Lauryl betaine 5% Sodium benzoate 0.4% (Di)sodium EDTA 0.2% Colouring agents 0.1% Pearlescent base 8% Fragrance qsf Citric acid monohydrate qsf Sodium chloride desulfate qsf Purified water qsf

EXAMPLE 5

Mask

(12) TABLE-US-00003 Hydrolyzed wheat protein 3% Balanites almond extract 0.2% Salicylic acid 0.15% Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.5% Propylene glycol 1% Behentrimonium chloride 3% Cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl mixture 1% Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.15% Glycol palmitate 6% Behenic alcohol 4% Diisopropyl adipate 10% Castor oil 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.7% Sorbic acid 0.3% Fragrance qsf Lactic acid qsf Butylhydroxytoluene 0.05% Colouring agents qsf Purified water qsf

EXAMPLE 6

Skincare Without Rinsing

(13) TABLE-US-00004 Balanites almond extract 0.1% Hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.1% (Poly)acrylate-13 mixture 1.5% (Di)caprylyl ether 5% Castor oil 5% C14-22 alkyl alcohol mixture 1.25% Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3% Propylene glycol 1% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Sorbic acid 0.2% Butylhydroxytoluene 0.01% Fragrance qsf Colouring agent qsf Purified water qsf

EXAMPLE 7

Measurements of Mechanical Properties of the Hair Treated With a Balanites Aegyptiaca Almond Extract

(14) The mechanical properties of the hair are measured by means of a linear extensometer that applies a tensile force until the hair breaks. Thus, by means of a force sensor, the breakage force can be measured. By taking into account the cross-section of the hair, the breakage force is associated with the cross-section and expressed as the breakage stress point.

(15) Method

(16) Hair Used

(17) Original hair: European type, brown, glued weft dense, colour 5/0, total length 20 cm with 18 cm free. Provided by the Kerling International company (Germany).

(18) And hair made fragile obtained by chemical treatments of the original hair: discoloured by chemical oxidation for 4 hours followed by a 30-minute permanent treatment.

(19) The lock of hair made fragile was cut into a plurality of sub-locks with a width of 0.5 cm (mean weight=27030 mg). Then, these sub-locks were the subject of the test in an amount of one product tested per sub-lock.

(20) Products Tested

(21) The preparations tested were obtained by using, respectively, 5 g and 0.5 g of extract prepared according to example 1 in suspension in 27% ethanol. 100 mL of 5% date extract in 27% ethanol 100 mL of 0.5% date extract in 27% ethanol 100 mL of 27% ethanol. Application of the Products

(22) The hair made fragile was treated with the preparations, allowing the locks to soak for 96 hours in the solutions, and agitating them during this time.

(23) The untreated hair made fragile locks were used as a control.

(24) At the end of the treatment, the hair locks were washed for 30 seconds with 3% sodium lauryl sulfate, followed by rinsing in clear water for 1 minute.

(25) Finally, the locks were dried for 24 hours in open air before being subjected to the tests according to the protocol below.

(26) Measurement of Mechanical Properties

(27) The equipment used is a Miniature Tensile Tester 675 (MTT, Diastron, UK) associated with a Laser Scan Micrometer (LSM, Mitutoyu, Japan). The procedure for measurement and analysis of the hair is as follows: Crimping the individual hair strands with a test length of 30 mm (n=40 hair strands per treatment) Measuring the cross-section of each hair strand by LSM Subjecting wetted hair strands (1 hour of soaking in water) to tensile stress until breakage by the MTT. Constant pull rate=10 mm/mn Analysis of the tensile curve in order to identify and raise the breakage stress point in megapascal (MPa, where 1 Pa=1 N/m.sup.2), which indicates the breakage force weighted by the cross-section of the hair strand. The variability in the thickness of the hair studied is thus overcome.

(28) This procedure was used to measure and analyse locks having been treated and also locks not having received any treatment (untreated controls).

(29) Results (n=40 Hair Strands Per Treatment)

(30) The results of the measurements of the breakage stress point are presented in table 1, with mean values for the breakage stress points and corresponding standard deviations. The differences with respect to the untreated control were calculated in the form of percentages.

(31) TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 1 Breakage stress point in MPa for hair tested as a function of treatment Mean breakage stress point Standard Treatment (MPa) deviation % Untreated 51.56 11.46 0.0 control 0.5% date 55.97 7.59 8.5 5% date 57.67 10.00 11.8

(32) A statistical analysis (Student T test, unpaired, bilateral) of these results was performed with the Student test (threshold 5%) Treated with 0.5% Balanites extract, p=0.0468 (Significant) Treated with 5% Balanites extract, p=0.0131 (Significant)

CONCLUSIONS

(33) Under these experimental conditions, a significant increase in the breakage stress point is observed for the two concentrations of date extracts with respect to the untreated control.

(34) These results indicate a reinforcing effect of the active agent on hair made fragile. Thus, the latter, when they were treated by the extract and subjected to a constant pull rate, break with greater force than that of the untreated hair.

(35) This study made it possible to demonstrate the efficacy of a composition according to this invention on the anti-breakage property of hair.