PROCESS FOR SEMIPERMANENT STRAIGHTENING AND DYEING HAIR

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for semi-permanent straightening and dyeing hair for improved and milder semi-permanent straightening and dyeing of hair, especially human hair. The inventors have unexpectedly found that when commonly used oxidative dyeing compositions are mixed with another composition comprising predominantly carboxylic acids, the dyeing effect of the composition is improved, homogeneous dyeing of hair fibers is achieved and natural cosmetic properties of hair is maintained. The hair may be semi-permanently straightened before or after oxidative dyeing the hair.

Claims

1. Process for semi-permanent straightening and dyeing hair: wherein the semi-permanent straightening comprises the steps of: a. optionally washing the hair with a cleansing composition and towel drying, b. applying to the hair a treatment composition A comprising at least one compound of the general structure
RCORFormula (I) and/or a hydrate thereof and/or a salt thereof, wherein R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C.sub.1-C.sub.10 alkyl, optionally substituted C.sub.2-C.sub.10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C.sub.2-C.sub.10 alkynyl, optionally substituted C.sub.3-C.sub.10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C.sub.6-C.sub.10 aryl or a 5-10-membered, optionally substituted heteroaryl group, wherein the optional substituents of the alkyl group are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino and C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy, and the optional substituents of the other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino, C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl and C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy, and R is H or COOH, wherein the composition has a pH in the range of 1 to 4 when R is COOH and in the range of 1 to 6 when R is H, c. leaving the composition A on the hair for 1 min to 90 min, d. optionally rinsing off the hair, e. optionally drying the hair, f. heating the hair to a temperature in the range of 130 C. to 230 C., g. optionally rinsing the hair, wherein the subsequent dyeing carried out immediately after the steps a to g comprises the steps of: h. optionally washing, towel drying the hair and optionally drying the hair, i. applying a ready-to-use composition onto the hair consisting of compositions B, C, and D, which are kept separately until application and mixed to a ready-to-use composition prior to application onto hair at a weight ratio in the range of 1:2:0.1 to 1:1:1 and left on the hair for 1 min to 45 min, and j. rinsing off the hair with water and/or optionally shampooing the hair, and k. optionally drying the hair wherein composition B is an alkaline aqueous composition comprising one or more hair dyes, one or more alkalizing agents and has a pH between 7.5 and 12, wherein the composition C is an acidic composition having a pH of 2 to 5 and comprising one or more oxidizing compounds, and wherein the composition D is a composition comprising 1) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts, and 2) one or more additional organic acid and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups, wherein composition D comprises the acids 1) and 2) and/or their salts at a total concentration of 10% to 100% by weight, calculated to the total of composition D, wherein the ready-to-use composition has a pH in the range of 6.5 to 12 and comprises the acids and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1.0% to 10.0% by weight calculated to the total of the ready-to-use composition.

2. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with 3 or more carboxyl groups is selected from citric acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid, and glutamate diacetate, wherein the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is selected from acetic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, acetic acid, wherein the composition D preferably comprises the first acid (1) and the second acid (2) at a weight ratio (1)/(2) in the range of 1:0.1 to 1:250.

3. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition D is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion or a solution.

4. The process according to claim 1 wherein the pH of the composition D is in the range from 1 to 5.

5. The process according to claim 1 wherein the carboxylic acid with 3 or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

6. The process according to claim 1 wherein the organic acid with one or two carboxyl group is malic acid and/or its salts.

7. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition B comprises one or more oxidative dye precursors selected from phenylendiamines, p-aminophenols, and heterocyclic compounds such as diaminopyrazols and substituted pyrimidines, optionally one or more coupling substances selected from resorcinols, m-aminophenols, m-phenylendiamines, pyridines, and naphthols.

8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition B and/or C and/or D comprise(s) one or more hair direct dye selected from cationic, anionic and nitro dyes or their mixtures.

9. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition(s) B and/or D comprise(s) at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, wherein the alkalizing agents selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethylpropanol.

10. The process according to claim 1 the alkalizing agents are comprised at a concentration range from 1.0% to 10.0% by weight, calculated to the total of each composition.

11. The process according to claim 1 wherein the compositions A, B, C or D comprise one or more ingredients selected form fatty alcohols, surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones, ubiquinones, ceramides, reducing agents, organic solvents, silicones such as linear polysiloxanes, aminated silicones, cyclic silicones, arylated silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, polyols.

12. The process according to claim 1 wherein the semi-permanent straightening and dyeing processes are subsequently performed in either order or performed with a time delay of at least 8 hours in either order.

13. The process according to claim 1 wherein the hair is heated with an iron.

14. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition A comprises glyoxylic acid and/or its hydrates and/or its salts at a concentration range from 1.0% to 40.0% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition A.

15. Kit for hair comprising the compositions A, B, C and D as described in the claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0109] Composition A

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Glyoxylic acid 12.0 Amodimethicone 1.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.5 Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 1.5 Water to 100

[0110] The Composition B

TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Cetearyl alcohol 10.0 Cocamide MEA 4.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.5 Propylene glycol 2.0 Cetyltrimonium chloride 0.5 2,5,6-Triamino-4-hydroxypyrimidine sulphate 0.01 2,5-Diaminotoluene sulphate 0.55 4-Chlororesorcinol 0.17 Resorcinol 0.05 3-Aminophenol 0.03 Sodium sulfite 1.0 Aminomethylpropanol 2.0 Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to pH 10.0 Fragrance, preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0111] The Composition C

TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 9.00 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.70 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.0 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.20 Salicylic acid 0.10 Water ad 100.00

[0112] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00004 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0113] The pH of the above composition D was approximately 3.5.

[0114] Hair streaks of 25 cm length (3.5 g) were purchased from International Hair Importer & Products, Glendale, N.Y., USA. The composition A was applied to a shampooed and towel dried hair streak and left on the hair for 15 min at ambient temperature and the hair was dried with a hair drier. Afterwards the hair was treated with a flat iron having a surface temperature of 180 C. The streak was passed for 3 times with an iron. Afterwards the hair was shampooed with Kerasilk Rich Keratin Care Shampoo and blow dried. Directly after allowing the hair streak to cool down, to hair was applied the ready-to-use composition obtained by mixing the three compositions B, C, and D from above at a weight ratio of B, C and D 1:2:0.2. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.5. The composition was applied onto the streaks of human hair and left on the hair for 30 min at 40 C., then the hair was rinsed off, shampooed with a Dualsenses Color Shampoo and left for air-drying at ambient temperature (inventive process).

[0115] For comparative purposes, the same as above was carried out without using the composition D (comparative process). Instead of composition D the same amount of water was added. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.9.

[0116] The above disclosed processes were carried out on hair streaks pre-damaged with bleaching using a commercially available bleaching composition under the brand Goldwell.

[0117] Color durability was investigated by incubating the hair streaks in a shaking bath with a shaking frequency of 100 min.sup.1 for 15 min at 30 C. The water bath was filled with an aqueous solution of sodium laureth sulfate at a concentration of 5% by weight, calculated to the total of the water bath solution. Upon incubation, the hair streaks were rinsed with water and towel dried. Color results were measured prior to incubation and upon incubation by spectrophotometrical analysis with a Datacolor 45G CT instrument delivered from Datacolor Inc., Lawrenceville, N.J., USA. Based on the CIE*Lab color space results obtained by the measurements, E.sub.ab values for color difference were calculated according to equation (1):

E.sub.ab={square root over ((L.sub.2L.sub.1)+(a.sub.2a.sub.1)+(b.sub.2b.sub.1))}Equation 1

[0118] The E.sub.ab value for hair streaks treated with the inventive process was 5.56, whereas the E.sub.ab value for the hair streaks treated with the comparative process was 9.31. Lower E.sub.ab values correspond to less change in hair color upon incubation and the results clearly showed that the inventive process led to a much lower color change which differs to the comparative process by approximately 4 color units. In conclusion the presented data clearly showed the superior performance of the inventive process compared to the state-of-the-art process.

[0119] Similar results were obtained with the following compositions when used with the compositions A and B of the Example 1.

EXAMPLE 2

[0120] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00005 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 EDTA tetrasodium salt 3.0 Malic acid 13.0 Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100 pH 3.4 0.1

EXAMPLE 3

[0121] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00006 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine 2.7 (MEA) EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Panthenol 0.1 Water To 100 pH 3.3 0.1

EXAMPLE 4

[0122] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Behenamidopropyl 0.2 trimonium chloride Water to 100 pH 1.5 0.1

EXAMPLE 5

[0123] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0 Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100 pH 2.7 0.1

EXAMPLE 6

[0124] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00009 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Basic red 51 1.00 HC Red 18 1.00 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0125] The pH of the above composition was 3.5.

[0126] Hair was treated with the composition D from above using the compositions A and B of the Example 1 as described under the Example 1. It was observed that the hair was dyed effectively into intensive red color. Exclusion of the composition D resulted in loss of color brilliance and combability.

EXAMPLE 7

[0127] The Composition D (Powder)

TABLE-US-00010 % by weight EDTA 7.0 Malic acid 93.0

[0128] 1 g of the above composition D was added to the mixture of 20 g of composition B and 20 g of composition C (1 to 1) of the Example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair which was already treated with the composition A of the Example 1 and rinsed off after leaving on the hair for 30 min. It was observed that the hair was homogeneously dyed and felt natural upon touching.

EXAMPLE 8

[0129] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00011 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0130] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 9

[0131] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00012 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0132] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 10

[0133] The Composition D

TABLE-US-00013 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

[0134] The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.4.