Composition with a continuous oil phase containing at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
10105292 ยท 2018-10-23
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/412
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/20
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/496
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/0241
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/58
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one continuous oil phase, characterized in that the oil phase comprises a) at least one non-volatile non-cyclic silicone oil with a viscosity at 25 C. ranging from 4 to 5000 mm.sup.2/s, better still from 4 to 1000 mm.sup.2/s and even better still from 4 to 200 mm.sup.2/s and b) at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent; and c) hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m.sup.2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m.sup.2/g, and a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 m, preferably ranging from 1 to 30 m, more preferentially from 5 to 25 m, better still from 5 to 20 m and even better still from 5 to 15 m. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, especially bodily or facial skin or the hair, comprising at least the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined previously.
Claims
1. A homogenous and matt composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one continuous oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises a) 5 to 60% by weight based upon the weight of the composition of at least one non-cyclic silicone oil with a viscosity at 25 C. ranging from 4 to 5000 mm.sup.2/s and having a vapour pressure of less than 10.sup.3 mmHg (0.13 Pa), wherein said non-cyclic silicone oil is a dimethicone represented by formula (II) below: ##STR00004## where x in formula (II) is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, b) 5% to 40% of at least one lipophilic organic UV-screening agent selected from the group consisting of butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, bis(ethylhexyloxyphenyl)methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and c) hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 1200 m.sup.2/g and a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), of 5 to 20 m, wherein the amount of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles is 0.5 to 10% by weight based upon the weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, in the form of an anhydrous composition or a water-in-oil emulsion.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter, ranging from 5 to 15 m.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tamped density ranging from 0.04 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are silica particles modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
8. The composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least one insoluble UV-screening agent selected from the group consisting of insoluble organic UV-screening agents, inorganic UV-screening agents and composite materials comprising an organic or inorganic matrix and at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.
9. The composition according to claim 1, also comprising an additional filler.
10. The composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least one colouring agent selected from the group consisting of pigments, nacres, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, and agents for promoting the naturally pinkish colouration of the skin, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to claim 1, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion also comprising at least one hydrophilic UV-screening agent.
12. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, especially bodily or facial skin or the hair, comprising at least the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined according to claim 1.
13. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter, ranging from 5 to 15 m.
14. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tamped density ranging from 0.04 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.
15. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tamped density ranging from 0.04 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.
16. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
17. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
18. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles is 1 to 10% by weight based upon the weight of the composition.
20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein x in formula (II) is an integer ranging from 1 to 20.
21. The composition according to claim 1, wherein x in formula (II) is an integer ranging from 1 to 10.
22. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m.sup.2/g.
23. The composition according to claim 22, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), of 5 to 15 m.
Description
EXAMPLES
Examples 1 to 7
(1) The following compositions were prepared according to the procedure below: In a beaker, phase B is heated to 80-85 C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Phase A is added to phase B with gentle stirring. Phase C is added to phase A+B with gentle stirring. the mixture is homogenized in a Rayneri deflocculator.
(2) The macroscopic aspect is evaluated at 24 hours. The gloss after application of the compositions is evaluated using a MicroGloss 60 glossmeter from Byk-Gardner GmbH. A film of the composition 30 m thick is drawn on an Erichsen Typ24/5 contrast card. After 24 hours of drying at 37 C., measurement of the gloss is performed using a glossmeter at an angle of 60. The gloss value, expressed in Gloss Units, is given by the average of six measurements taken on the same contrast card.
(3) TABLE-US-00001 Phase Ingredients 1* 2 A Dimethicone 52.47 52.47 B Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1.34 1.34 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.67 0.67 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2.67 2.67 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 4.01 4.01 Ethylhexyl triazone 2 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 3.34 3.34 Octocrylene 6.68 6.68 Diisopropyl sebacate 16.02 16.02 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 5.34 5.34 C Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow 5.47 Corning) Silica dimethyl silylate (Aerosil R972 from Evonik- 5.47 Degussa) *composition according to the invention
(4) Composition 2 outside the invention containing a phase containing at least one lipophilic UV-screening agent, a dimethicone and a standard filler (Aerosil R972 from Evonik-Degussa) is not homogeneous and undergoes phase separation. In contrast, composition 1 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt.
(5) TABLE-US-00002 Phase Ingredients 1* 3 A Dimethicone 52.47 B Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1.34 1.34 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.67 0.67 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2.67 2.67 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 4.01 4.01 Ethylhexyl triazone 2 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 3.34 3.34 Octocrylene 6.68 6.68 Diisopropyl sebacate 16.02 16.02 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 5.34 5.34 C Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow 5.47 Corning) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 20 Crosspolymer (KSG710 from Shin-Etsu) 10 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Cross- 47.94 polymer (DC9045 from Dow Corning) *composition according to the invention
(6) Composition 3 containing an oil phase containing at least one lipophilic UV-screening agent, a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and an emulsifying silicone elastomer, according to patent application WO 2010/088 185, is not homogeneous and undergoes phase separation. Composition 1 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt.
(7) TABLE-US-00003 Ingredients 1* 4 5 6 Dimethicone 52.47 Isohexadecane 52.47 Cyclohexasiloxane 52.47 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 52.47 Bis(ethylhexyloxy- 1.34 1.34 1.34 1.34 phenol)methoxyphenyl- triazine Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 Diethylaminohydroxy- 2.67 2.67 2.67 2.67 benzoylhexyl benzoate Butylmethoxydibenzoyl- 4.01 4.01 4.01 4.01 methane Ethylhexyl triazone 2 2 2 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 3.34 3.34 3.34 3.34 Octocrylene 6.68 6.68 6.68 6.68 Diisopropyl sebacate 16.02 16.02 16.02 16.02 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 5.34 5.34 5.34 5.34 Silica silylate 5.47 5.47 5.47 5.47 (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) Gloss (glossmeter) 3.9 0.2 16.3 3.9 7.3 3.0 24.5 4.2 *composition according to the invention
(8) Compositions 4, 5 and 6 containing a silica aerogel and an oil phase containing at least one lipophilic UV-screening agent, but no dimethicone, are homogeneous, but are not matt, either in the jar or on application. Composition 1 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt in the jar. On application, it is significantly less glossy than the other compositions.
(9) TABLE-US-00004 Ingredients 6* 7* Dimethicone 51.85 51.17 Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1.32 1.30 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.66 0.65 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2.64 2.60 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3.96 3.91 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.98 1.95 Ethylhexyl salicylate 3.3 3.26 Octocrylene 6.6 6.51 Diisopropyl sebacate 15.83 15.63 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 5.28 5.21 Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow 6.6 7.81 Corning) Gloss (glossmeter) 3.2 0.1 2.9 0.3 *composition according to the invention
(10) Compositions 6 and 7 according to the invention are homogeneous and matt, both in the jar and on application.
Examples 8 to 13
(11) The following compositions were prepared according to the procedure below: Phase A.sub.2 is swollen in phase A.sub.1 in a beaker under cold conditions with mixing using a Rayneri blender. Phase A.sub.3 is added to the mixture A.sub.1-A.sub.2. The mixture is homogenized using a Rayneri blender. Phase B.sub.1 is heated at 75 C. with magnetic stirring until it is homogeneous. In another beaker, phase B.sub.2 is added to phase B.sub.1 and the mixture is homogenized by spatula until a homogeneous powder is obtained. The mixture B.sub.1+B.sub.2 is added to the mixture A.sub.1+A.sub.2+A.sub.3 with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized. Phase C.sub.1 is added with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized. Phase C.sub.2 is added with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized.
(12) The macroscopic aspect of the compositions is evaluated at 24 hours.
(13) The gloss after application of the compositions is evaluated using a MicroGloss 60 glossmeter from Byk-Gardner GmbH. A film of the composition 30 m thick is drawn on an Erichsen Typ24/5 contrast card. After 24 hours of drying at 37 C., measurement of the gloss is performed using a glossmeter at an angle of 60. The gloss value, expressed in Gloss Units, is given by the average of six measurements taken on the same contrast card.
(14) The sun protection factor (SPF) of the compositions is evaluated according to the International Method published by COLIPA/CTFA SA/JCIA (May 2006). The sun protection factor is the ratio of the Minimum Erythemal Dose obtained in the presence of product (2 mg/cm.sup.2) (MEDp) to the Minimum Erythemal Dose obtained without product (MEDnp).
SPF=MEDp/MEDnp
(15) The Minimum Erythemal Dose is defined as being the amount of energy necessary to produce the first unambiguous perceptible redness, with clearly defined contours, evaluated 16 to 24 hours after exposure to a sun simulator, at six increasing doses of UV (12% increments). The test must be performed on five individuals, and it must satisfy the statistical criterion (95% IC<17% SPF mean).
(16) TABLE-US-00005 Phase Ingredients 8* A.sub.1 Dimethicone (5 cSt) 39.3 A.sub.2 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DC9041 2 from Dow Corning) A.sub.3 Trimethyl siloxysilicate 5 B.sub.1 Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.5 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.5 Octocrylene 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 12 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 4 B.sub.2 Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) 5 C.sub.1 Talc 6.7 Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) carmine 0.4 Mica (and) iron oxides 0.1 C.sub.2 Silica (and) titanium dioxide (Sunsil TIN 50 from 10 Sunjin Chemical) *composition according to the invention
(17) Composition 8 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt in appearance. It has a gloss, measured with a glossmeter, of less than 5. in vivo, it has a sun protection factor SPF of 51.30.4.8.
(18) TABLE-US-00006 Phase Ingredients 9* 10* A.sub.1 DIMETHICONE 42.7 43 A.sub.2 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 2 2 A.sub.3 Trimethyl siloxysilicate 5 5 B.sub.1 Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1 1 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.5 0.5 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.5 1.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.5 2.5 Octocrylene 5 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 12 12 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 4 4 B.sub.2 Silica Silylate 5 5 C.sub.1 Talc 7.3 7.5 Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) carmine 0.4 0.4 Mica (and) iron oxides 0.1 0.1 C.sub.2 Titanium dioxide (and) silica (and) aluminum 6 hydroxide (and) alginic acid (MT-100AQ from Tayca) Titanium dioxide (and) silica (Eusolex T-AVO 5.5 from Merck) *composition according to the invention
(19) Compositions 9 and 10 according to the invention are homogeneous and matt in appearance. They have a gloss, measured with a glossmeter, of less than 5. in vivo, they have a sun protection factor SPF of 46.92.9 for composition 9 and 48.92.4 for composition 10.
(20) TABLE-US-00007 Phase Ingredients 11* A.sub.1 Dimethicone 33.3 A.sub.2 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 2 A.sub.3 Trimethyl siloxysilicate 5 B.sub.1 Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.5 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.5 Octocrylene 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 12 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 4 B.sub.2 Silica Silylate 5 C.sub.1 Glycerol 7 Talc 5.7 Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) carmine 0.4 Mica (and) iron oxides 0.1 C.sub.2 Silica (and) titanium dioxide 10 *composition according to the invention
(21) Composition 11 was prepared according to the following procedure: Phase A.sub.2 is swollen in phase A.sub.1 in a beaker under cold conditions with mixing using a Rayneri blender. In another beaker, phase B.sub.1 is heated at 75 C. with magnetic stirring, until it is homogeneous. The mixture is left to cool. Phase B.sub.2 is added to phase B.sub.1 and the mixture is homogenized by spatula until a homogeneous powder is obtained. The mixture B.sub.1+B.sub.2 is added to the mixture A.sub.1+A.sub.2 with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized gently.
(22) Composition 11 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt in appearance. It has a gloss, measured with a glossmeter, of less than 5. in vivo, it has a sun protection factor SPF of 46.92.8.
(23) TABLE-US-00008 Phase Ingredients 12* A.sub.1 Dimethicone 31.5 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 3 A.sub.2 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 2 Trimethyl siloxysilicate 5 B Glycerol 7 Water 5 C.sub.1 Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 1 Drometrizole trisiloxane 0.5 Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Ethylhexyl triazone 1.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 2.5 Octocrylene 5 Diisopropyl sebacate 12 C12-15 Alkyl benzoate 4 C.sub.2 Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) 5 D.sub.1 Talc 6.5 Mica (and) bismuth oxychloride (and) carmine 0.4 Mica (and) iron oxides 0.1 D.sub.2 Silica (and) titanium dioxide 10 *composition according to the invention
(24) Composition 12 was prepared according to the following procedure: Phase A.sub.2 is swollen in phase A.sub.1 in a beaker under cold conditions with mixing using a Rayneri blender. Phase A.sub.3 is added to the mixture A.sub.1+A.sub.2 with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized. Phase B is emulsified in the mixture A.sub.1+A.sub.2+A.sub.3, with mixing using a Rayneri blender. In another beaker, phase C.sub.1 is heated at 75 C. with magnetic stirring, until it is homogeneous. Phase C.sub.2 is added to phase C.sub.1 and the mixture is homogenized by spatula until a homogeneous powder is obtained. The mixture C.sub.1+C.sub.2 is added to the emulsion with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized gently. Phase D.sub.1 is added with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized gently. Phase D.sub.2 is added with mixing using a Rayneri blender. The whole is homogenized gently.
(25) Composition 12 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt in appearance. It has a gloss, measured with a glossmeter, of less than 5.
(26) TABLE-US-00009 Phase Ingredients 13* A.sub.1 Dimethicone 79.8 A.sub.2 Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) 3.5 B.sub.1 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 Octocrylene 7 B.sub.2 Silica silylate (Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning) 1.7 *composition according to the invention
(27) Composition 13 according to the invention is homogeneous and matt in appearance. It has a gloss, measured with a glossmeter, of less than 5. in vivo, it has an SPF of 15.32.2.