Process for protecting and repairing keratin fibres using anionic oxidized polysaccharides

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers which have not been artificially colored, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which consists in using one or more anionic oxidized polysaccharides and in raising the temperature of the keratin fibers.

Claims

1. A process for treating keratin fibers, the process comprising: (i) applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic oxidized polysaccharide chosen from compounds of formula (I) below:
P(CHO).sub.m(COOX).sub.n(I) wherein: P represents a polysaccharide chain chosen from inulins; X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, aqueous ammonia, organic amines, and basic amino acids; m+n is greater than or equal to 1; m is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2; and n is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2, and (ii) heating the keratin fibers using a straightening iron at a temperature ranging from about 80 C. to about 180 C., wherein said keratin fibers have not been artificially colored prior to said treatment process.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein: the alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal is chosen from sodium, potassium, and mixtures thereof; the organic amines are chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, and mixtures thereof; and/or the basic amino acids are chosen from lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline, and mixtures thereof.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein: m is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.005 to about 1.5; and/or n is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 1.5.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process is carried out on sensitized keratin fibers that have not been artificially colored prior to said treatment process.

5. The process according to claim 1, further comprising a step of cosmetically treating keratin fibers.

6. The process according to claim 5, wherein the cosmetic treatment process is chosen from dyeing, relaxing and/or permanent-waving keratin fibers.

7. The process according to claim 5, wherein the process is carried out during and/or after a cosmetic treatment process which does not result in the artificial coloration of the keratin fibers.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process is carried out during and/or after a process for permanent-waving or a process for relaxing keratin fibers; or after a process for bleaching keratin fibers.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process is carried out during a process for permanently reshaping keratin fibers.

10. A process for repairing keratin fibers, the process comprising: applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic oxidized polysaccharide chosen from compounds of formula (I) below:
P(CHO).sub.m(COOX).sub.n(I) wherein: P represents a polysaccharide chain chosen from inulins; X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, aqueous ammonia, organic amines, and basic amino acids; m+n is greater than or equal to 1; m is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2; and n is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2, and (ii) heating the keratin fibers using a straightening iron at a temperature ranging from about 80 C. to about 180 C., wherein said keratin fibers have not been artificially colored prior to said repairing process.

11. A process for protecting keratin fibers, the process comprising: applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic oxidized polysaccharide chosen from compounds of formula (I) below:
P(CHO).sub.m(COOX).sub.n(I) wherein: P represents a polysaccharide chain chosen from inulins; X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, aqueous ammonia, organic amines, and basic amino acids; m+n is greater than or equal to 1; m is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2; and n is chosen such that the degree of substitution of the at least one polysaccharide with the at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2, and (ii) heating the keratin fibers using a straightening iron at a temperature ranging from about 80 C. to about 180 C., wherein said keratin fibers have not been artificially colored prior to said protecting process.

Description

EXAMPLES

Part A

(1) The amounts indicated in the examples are expressed as weight percentages.

(2) I. Oxidized Polysaccharide Tested

(3) Compound 1 was prepared by oxidation of inulin sold under the name Inutec N25 by the company Orafti, by carrying out a reactive extrusion process as described in the article Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reactive extrusion by R. E. Wing and J. L. Willett, Industrial Crops and Products 7, 1997, pages 45-52. A co-rotating twin-screw extruder of BC21 type sold by the company Clextral and aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, as oxidizing agent, were used.

(4) Compound 1: oxidized inulin obtained by reactive extrusion of a mixture of 78% by weight of inulin and 1.57% by weight of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, in water; the spontaneous pH after reactive extrusion is 3.8. The resulting compound 1 has a carbonyl content of 1.23% (w/w) and a carboxyl content of 0.17% (w/w).

(5) Compositions Tested

(6) TABLE-US-00001 Compositions A B C D Compound 1 0.5% 2% Acidifying agent qs pH = 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(7) The pH of compositions (A), (B) and (C) is about 3.4.

(8) III. Procedure

(9) Each of the compositions is applied to locks of highly sensitized hair (SA=45%), in a proportion of 10 ml of composition per gram of lock, for 30 minutes at 40 C.

(10) The locks are then wrung out and are then dried under a hood for 10 minutes at 60 C.

(11) The locks are combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180 C., making five continuous passes along the locks for 40 seconds.

(12) IV. ResultsCosmetic Properties

(13) The cosmetic properties of the locks of hair are observed and evaluated following treatment carried out with each of the compositions (A) to (D) after shampooing.

(14) The cosmetic feel and the manageability of the locks, and the ease with which they can be combed, are in particular evaluated.

(15) TABLE-US-00002 Cosmetic properties after Type of hair lock shampooing Untreated sensitized hair Difficult to comb (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair treated with Difficult to comb, same level as composition (C) + heat (Lock 2) lock 1 Sensitized hair treated with Slightly well-behaved lock composition (D) + heat (Lock 3) easier to comb than lock 1 Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, well- composition (A) + heat (Lock 4) behaved and pleasant and soft cosmetic feel Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, well- composition (B) + heat (Lock 5) behaved and pleasant feel

(16) The locks of hair were then classified according to their cosmetic properties (soft and pleasant cosmetic feel, manageability, ease of combing and resistance) after shampooing.

(17) TABLE-US-00003 After shampooing Lock No. 4 > Lock No. 5 > Lock No. 6 > Lock No. 3 > Lock No. 2 > Lock No. 1

(18) The locks treated by means of the process according to the invention have better cosmetic properties after shampooing.

(19) The persistence of the cosmetic properties is therefore improved.

(20) V. Colorimetric Measurements

(21) 5.1 The colour of the locks of hair is evaluated before and after the treatment previously described for each of compositions (A) to (D) (procedurepart III) in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica-Minolta CM2600D colorimeter (specular components included, illuminant D65, angle 10).

(22) The variation in colouration DE of the locks of hair before and after treatment is calculated on the basis of the values L*a*b* measured before and after treatment and is obtained from the following equation:
DE={square root over ((L*L.sub.0*).sup.2+(a*a.sub.0).sup.2+(b*b.sub.0*).sup.2)}(i)

(23) In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on the untreated sensitized locks of hair and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on the sensitized locks of hair after the treatment was carried out for each of compositions (A) to (D).

(24) VI. Results

(25) TABLE-US-00004 Type of lock L* a* b* DE Untreated 68.59 1.5 4.64 0.69 28.47 1.28 sensitized hair (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized 67.25 1.03 5.02 0.5 27.84 1.04 1.53 hair treated with 1.17 composition (C) + heat (Lock 2) Sensitized 67.55 1.66 5.29 0.50 28.06 1.19 1.30 hair treated with 1.19 composition (D) + heat (Lock 3) Sensitized 68.74 1.22 4.59 0.55 26.29 0.91 2.19 hair treated with 1.19 composition (A) + heat (Lock 4) Sensitized 66.90 1.85 4.32 0.76 26.61 1.33 2.53 hair treated with 1.43 composition (B) + heat (Lock 5)

(26) The locks of hair treated by means of the treatment process according to the invention do not undergo any colour modification.

(27) VII. Evaluation of the Dry Friction Properties

(28) 7.1 Procedure

(29) The measurements of the friction coefficient of the hair are determined using a friction bench constituted of a glass plate with two pierced Teflon end pieces for threading through two hairs.

(30) An 11.0 gram stainless steel sled is adjusted on the plate, the scan speed is 20 Hz/second and the translation speed is 2.0 rpm. The measurements are carried out in both directions of the fibre (root to end and end to root) at a temperature of 25 C. and a relative hygrometry of 45%.

(31) 7.2 Results

(32) TABLE-US-00005 Dynamic friction coefficient of Type of lock the hair root-end Untreated sensitized hair 0.133 0.042 (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair treated with 0.166 0.052 composition (C) + heat (Lock 2) Sensitized hair treated with 0.159 0.045 composition (D) + heat (Lock 3) Sensitized hair treated with 0.131 0.022 composition (A) + heat (Lock 4) Sensitized hair treated with 0.118 0.024 composition (B) + heat (Lock 5)

(33) It is noted that the treatment process according to the invention makes it possible to further reduce the dry friction coefficient of the hair.

(34) It is noted that this decrease in the friction coefficient increases with the concentration of the polysaccharide.

(35) Part B

(36) The amounts indicated in the compositions described hereinafter are expressed as weight percentages.

(37) I. Oxidized Polysaccharide Tested

(38) Compound 1 was prepared by oxidation of inulin sold under the name Inutec N25 by the company Orafti in the same way as in part A (Part A.I).

(39) Compositions Tested

(40) TABLE-US-00006 Compositions C E F Compound 1 5% Fructose 5% Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(41) The pH of compositions (C), (E) and (F) is about C=7; E=3.02; F=6.33

(42) III. Procedure

(43) The procedure is identical to that carried out in part A (Part A.III).

(44) IV. Colorimetric Measurements

(45) The colour of the locks of hair is evaluated before and after the treatment previously described for each of compositions (C) to (F) (procedurepart III) in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica-Minolta CM2600D colorimeter (specular components included, illuminant D65, angle 10).

(46) The variation in colouration DE of the locks of hair before and after treatment is calculated on the basis of the values L*a*b* measured before and after treatment and is obtained from the equation (i) previously described.

(47) V. Results

(48) TABLE-US-00007 Type of lock L* a* b* DE Untreated sensitized 68.41 4.74 28.88 hair (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair with 66.93 4.60 27.18 2.26 1.21 composition (C) + heat (Lock 2) Sensitized hair 66.89 5.53 28.72 1.10 1.76 treated with composition (E) + heat (Lock 3) Sensitized hair 64.42 10.29 36.44 11.16 1.23 treated with composition (F) + heat (Lock 4)

(49) The locks of hair treated with the process according to the invention (lock 3) do not undergo any colour modification, whereas the locks of hair treated with fructose (lock 4) undergo a considerable modification of their colour.