Cosmetic use of an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. for keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L., as an active agent for preventing and/or treating skin or keratin disorders associated with constriction of the cutaneous capillary circulation. The invention is also directed towards the cosmetic use of the said essential oil as an active agent for improving the appearance of the lips by increasing the size and/or volume and/or thickness of the lips and/or for (re)modelling them and/or making them smooth, and also to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibers.

Claims

1. Cosmetic method for treating skin or keratin disorders associated with constriction of the cutaneous capillary circulation selected from the group consisting of cellulite, slacknening of the skin, hair loss, and thinned hair, and/or for inducing and/or stimulating the growth of keratin fibres and/or increasing their density, in a subject in need thereof, the method comprising topically applying to the skin or the keratin fibers of a subject in need thereof a composition comprising at least an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L, wherein the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises limonene in an amount ranging from 40% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, perillaldehyde in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and chamazulene in an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

2. Cosmetic method for improving the appearance of the lips by increasing the size and/or volume and/or thickness of the lips and/or making them smooth in a subject in need thereof, the method comprising topically applying to the lips of a subject in need thereof a composition comprising at least an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L, wherein the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises limonene in an amount ranging from 40% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, perillaldehyde in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and chamazulene in an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

3. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the said essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. is used in a cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the said essential oil is obtained from the umbels and/or from the fruit seeds and/or from the leaves of Laserpitium siler L.

5. Cosmetic method according to claim 4, wherein the said essential oil is obtained from the umbels.

6. Cosmetic method according to claim 4, wherein the said essential oil is obtained from the seed-bearing umbels.

7. Cosmetic method according to claim 4, wherein the said essential oil is obtained from the leaves.

8. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the said essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises at least 40% by weight of monoterpenes selected from the group consisting of limonene, myrcene, sabinene, -terpinene, para-cymene and -pinene, and at least 5% by weight of sesquiterpenes selected from the group consisting of chamazulene, germacrene D and trans--carophyllene.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin and/or the keratin fibres a composition comprising at least the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L., in which the said essential oil is obtained from the umbels and/or from the fruit seeds and/or from the leaves of Laserpitium siler L, wherein the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. comprises limonene in an amount ranging from 40% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, perillaldehyde in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and chamazulene in an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres according to claim 9, in which the said essential oil is obtained from the umbels.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres according to claim 9, in which the said essential oil is obtained from the seed-bearing umbels.

12. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres according to claim 9, in which the said essential oil is obtained from the leaves.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for the skin and/or keratin fibres according to claim 9, in which the said essential oil comprises at least 40% by weight of monoterpenes selected from the group consisting of limonene, myrcene, sabinene, -terpinene, para-cymene and -pinene, and at least 5% by weight of sesquiterpenes chosen from chamazulene, germacrene D and trans--carophyllene.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Production of an Essential Oil According to the Invention

(1) 0.1 kg of seed-bearing umbels of freshly harvested Laserpitium siler L. fruit is distilled, dried and flattened.

(2) This distillation is performed for 180 minutes according to the steam distillation (or hydrodistillation) technique in 4-liter Clevenger apparatus, i.e. apparatus based on the same principle as that detailed in the European Pharmacopoeia (PH. Eur. 4th Ed 2.8.12).

(3) 8 g of an essential oil according to the invention are thus obtained.

(4) Chemical analysis of the composition of the essential oil thus obtained is performed by gas chromatographic GC analysis.

(5) The results indicate that an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. in accordance with the invention comprises as main compounds limonene (68.95%), perillaldehyde (23.79%) and chamazulene (1.49%).

Example 2: Production of an Essential Oil According to the Invention

(6) 0.3 kg of freshly harvested Laserpitium siler L. leaves are fresh-distilled without pretreatment.

(7) This distillation is performed for 180 minutes according to the steam distillation technique in 4-liter Clevenger apparatus, i.e. apparatus based on the same principle as that detailed in the European Pharmacopoeia (PH. Eur. 4th Ed 2.8.12).

(8) 0.7 g of an essential oil according to the invention are thus obtained.

(9) Chemical analysis of the composition of the essential oil thus obtained is performed by gas chromatographic GC analysis.

(10) The results indicate that an essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. in accordance with the invention comprises as main compounds limonene (29.62%), myrcene (4.15%), sabinene (19.96%), -terpinene (2.12%), para-cymene (0.77%), -pinene (12.17%), germacrene D (10.15%), chamazulene (5.29%) and trans--carophyllene (2.59%).

Example 3: Effect of the Essential Oil of Laserpitium siler L. According to Example 1 on Blood Vessel Dilation

(11) The object of this study is to analyse the effect on vascular modulation, namely vasodilation or vasoconstriction, of the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. evaluated in a model of normal human skin maintained alive.

(12) Calcitonin-gene related peptide (CGRP), which induces vasodilation, and noradrenalin, which induces vasoconstriction, are used as positive controls.

(13) The analyses are histological by morphometric quantification of the calibre of the dermal capillaries and semi-quantitative evaluation of the oedema.

(14) Materials and Methods

(15) 1) Model of Skin Maintained Alive

(16) Fragments of normal human skin are obtained from a plastic surgery. They are placed in inserts, which are themselves positioned on culture wells. Culture medium specifically adapted to survival maintenance is added to the bottom of the wells, a passage being made by slow diffusion between the two compartments via a porous membrane (3 m).

(17) 2) Preparation of Two Positive Controls (CGRP and Noradrenalin) and Application of the Essential Oil According to the Invention

(18) The first positive control consisted in preparing an experimental model of neurogenic inflammation by adding 5 M CGRP to the culture medium so as to obtain vasodilation of the dermal capillaries.

(19) The second positive control consisted in adding 1 M noradrenalin to the culture medium so as to obtain vasoconstriction of the dermal capillaries.

(20) The essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. at the test concentrations dissolved in ethanol is added to the culture medium.

(21) The skin fragments are then maintained in organ culture for 48 hours in an oven under a humid atmosphere, at 37 C. and in the presence of 5% CO.sub.2.

(22) A comparative study is performed under the following conditions: control skin (unstimulated, untreated skin), skin stimulated with 1 M noradrenalin, skin stimulated with 5 M CGRP, skin treated with the product at the concentrations used.

(23) 3) Measurement of the Vascular Modulation

(24) The skin fragments are fixed in Bouin liquid and included in paraffin. After staining with haemalum-eosin, two criteria are evaluated on the dermis: the oedema and the calibre of the capillaries.

(25) a) Evaluation of the Modulation of the Calibre of the Capillaries

(26) After staining with haemalum-eosin, the vascular dilation is evaluated by counting the number of dilated blood vessels on the entire histological slice (16 fields at magnification 40). This number is carried over to the total number of blood vessels in order to calculate the percentage of dilated vessels.

(27) Moreover, a morphometric analysis of the area (m.sup.2) occupied by the lumen of the blood vessels was performed in order to determine the mean area (m.sup.2) occupied in the dermis by the vessels.

(28) 4) Statistical Analyses

(29) A mean is calculated for each parameter from the results obtained on the six skin samples. The statistical analysis was performed via the reduced deviation Student test or paired-samples test, with a risk a of 5%.

(30) Results

(31) 1) Evaluation of the Percentage of Dilated Vessels

(32) The results concerning the overall percentage (%) of dilated capillaries are presented in the table below.

(33) Histological Evaluation of the Percentage of Dilated Vessels

(34) TABLE-US-00001 control skin 74.8 20.8 skin + CGRP 90.5 9.38 *p = 0.049 skin + noradrenalin 52.5 20.6 *p = 0.047 skin + essential oil of 84.1 8.8 Laserpitium siler L. at 0.002% skin + essential oil of .sup.81 14.8 Laserpitium siler L. at 0.0002% *statistically significant difference relative to the control skin (Student's paired test (p < 0.05))

(35) CGRP induces a statistically significant increase in the number of dilated capillaries when compared with the control skin samples: 90.5% versus 74.8% (p=0.049).

(36) Noradrenalin induces a statistically significant decrease in the number of dilated vessels when compared with the control skin samples: 52.5% versus 74.8% (p=0.047).

(37) The essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. at the two concentrations, namely 0.002% and 0.0002%, increases the number of dilated vessels.

(38) 2) Measurement of the Mean Area of the Dilated Vessels

(39) The results concerning the measurement of the mean area of the capillaries are given in the table below:

(40) TABLE-US-00002 control skin 153.6 74.4 skin + CGRP 242.7 42.8 *p = 0.01 skin + noradrenalin 93.7 65.7 *p = 0.04 skin + essential oil of .sup.229 67.2 Laserpitium siler L. at 0.0002% *p = 0.04 *statistically significant difference relative to the control skin (Student's paired test (p < 0.05))

(41) The application of CGRP induces statistically significant vasodilation when compared with the control skin, with an area of 242.7 m.sup.2 versus 153.6 m.sup.2 (p=0.01).

(42) Noradrenalin induces statistically significant vasoconstriction of the vessels when compared with the control skin samples, with an area of 93.7 m.sup.2 versus 153.6 m.sup.2 (p=0.04).

(43) The essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. at 0.0002% induces statistically significant dilation of the area occupied by the capillaries in comparison with the control skin samples: 229 m.sup.2 versus 153.6 m.sup.2 (p=0.04).

(44) The results obtained from these ex vivo tests confirmed that the essential oil of Laserpitium siler L. according to the invention significantly increases the dilation of the blood vessels.

Example 4: Compositions

(45) Aqueous-Alcoholic Solution for Preventing Hair Loss

(46) TABLE-US-00003 Weight percentage relative to the total weight of the Ingredients composition % Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate 0.5 (20 OE) (Tween 20) Ethanol 21 Essential oil of Laser siler L. of 0.1 Example 1 Water qs 100
When applied to the hair and the scalp, this solution makes it possible to slow down hair loss.
Balm for Making the Lips Voluptuous

(47) TABLE-US-00004 Weight percentage relative to the total weight of the Ingredients composition (%) Beeswax 11.3 Shea butter 6.3 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil bio 1 BIO Kokosl kbA VCO from Medwed & Werner Decanoyl and octanoyl glyceride mixture 30.9 Miglyol 812N from Cremer Oleo Sunflower oil 16 Liquid lanolin 34 Stellanol 10/40 from Stella Mixture of natural , , and 0.4 tocopherols (14/1/62/23) in sunflower oil (90/10) Covi-OX T 90 EU from Cognis/BASF Essential oil of Laser siler L. of 0.1 Example 1
When applied to the lips, this balm makes it possible to make the lips voluptuous.
Anti-Cellulite Gel

(48) TABLE-US-00005 Weight percentage relative to the total weight of the Ingredients composition % Glycerol 3 Water qs 100 Xanthan gum 0.8 Rhodicare CFT from Rhodia Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane Silsoft 10 1217 from Momentive Performance Materials Water 20 Potassium sorbate 0.5 Propylene glycol 3 Essential oil of Laser siler L. of 0.1 Example 1 Ethyl alcohol 20
When applied to bodily skin, this gel makes it possible to reduce cellulite.