SYSTEM AND METHOD FOR PRECISELY TAILORING CLOTHING FOR INDIVIDUALS
20180263324 ยท 2018-09-20
Inventors
Cpc classification
A41H1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A41H3/007
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A41H3/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A41H1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
A method for creating a clothing construction sloper customized to an individual's measurements, including capturing the individual's body dimensions data using a 3D scanner, extracting and storing the captured measurement data using a sloper program, and developing a printed or digital master pattern used to fit existing garments to the person.
Claims
1. A method for creating a customized clothing construction sloper for a clothing customer, comprising the steps of: (a) manually placing physical landmarks on the customer; (b) scanning the customer using a 3D body scanner; (c) providing a computer having permanent and temporary memory and a processor; (d) loading a sloper program on the computer, wherein when executed the sloper program performs the steps of: (d1) generating scanning landmarks using the scanned data; (d2) aligning the scanning landmarks to the physical landmarks; (d3) testing for alignment of the scanning landmarks with the physical landmarks; (d4) moving the scanning landmarks as needed to match the physical landmarks; (e) extracting customer measurements from the body scan; (f) geometrically drawing a custom sloper using the extracted measurements; (g) draping the sloper onto the 3D body scan; (h) testing the fit of the sloper to identify individual fit characteristics of the customer; (i) modifying the sloper as needed using alteration principles to make the fit more accurate; (j) passing the sloper back to the draping step and repeating steps (g) through (i) until the sloper fits the customer; and (k) adding seam allowances and closures as needed.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the physical landmarks are landmark stickers.
3. The method of claim 1, further including printing a full scale of the sloper on pattern paper.
4. The method of claim 1, further including fitting the customer with close-fitting scan garment prior to placing landmark stickers for use in obtaining a body scan.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the physical landmarks are placed in quadrants at the customer's bust or chest, waist, abdomen, and hips.
6. The method of claim 5, wherein the physical landmark placement in quadrants is at the center front and back, and left and right sides of the customer.
7. The method of claim 1, further including taking one or more preliminary test measurements to check the accuracy of the physical landmark placement prior to scanning.
8. The method of claim 1, wherein the 3D scanner uses infrared and visible light to capture the form of the customer.
9. The method of claim 1, further including moving landmarks generated by the scanner to match the landmarks placed on the customer.
10. The method of claim 1, wherein the extracting step (e) includes generating lines and curves on the body surfaces.
11. The method of claim 10, wherein the step of generating needed lines further includes using slicing and measuring techniques in a modeling and animation program.
12. The method of claim 1, further including saving the extracted measurements and body curves in a digital file folder.
13. The method of claim 1, wherein the draping step (g) includes: loading the measurements and curves from the customer's file into the sloper program; choosing which sloper will be built; building the frame to obtain an approximate fit; drawing a shaped line for the curves of the customer's body depending on the chosen sloper being built; fitting the frame to the shaped line for a more accurate first draft; importing the sloper into a modeling and animation program; animating the body scan for fitting; and testing the frame for its match to the customer's body.
14. The method of claim 13, further including preparing the sloper for draping on the body scan when the frame matches the curve.
15. The method of claim 13, wherein the draping step further includes rendering a 2D cloth shape in the modeling and animation program.
16. The method of claim 15, further including draping the 2D cloth shape onto the body scan.
17. The method of claim 16, further including sewing the seams together to identify areas that are too tight or too loose or any improperly located seams.
18. The method of claim 17, further including adjusting the sloper to fit the customer's body.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS
[0027] The invention will be better understood and objects other than those set forth above will become apparent when consideration is given to the following detailed description thereof. Such description makes reference to the annexed drawings wherein:
[0028]
[0029]
[0030]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0031] Looking now at
[0032] To prepare for the entire sloper generation process 100, a customer/client wears close (but not tight) fitting clothing to get an accurate body scan. An example might be a leotard or tank top, but not a swimsuit.
[0033] Stickers are then placed at landmarks on the body 102 and several preliminary test measurements are made. Landmarks are located at the bust or chest, waist, abdomen, and hips in quadrants (i.e., center front and back, and left and right sides).
[0034] The customer is then scanned using a 3-D body scanner 104. The person is scanned using the Size Stream SS16 body scanner. This scanner uses IR and visible light technology to capture the shape/form of the client. The visible light scan will pick up the landmarks that were visibly placed on the client in step 1. As part of this step, the accuracy and landmark placement is checked. Landmarks generated by the scanner can be moved to match the ones placed on the body.
[0035] Using the inventive sloper program, which is executed on a computer having permanent and temporary memory and a processor, the sloper program extracts the client's measurements from the body scan 106. This step is detailed in the steps set out in
[0036] After the measurements are extracted, the program next uses the measurements to geometrically draw a custom body block or sloper 108. The sloper is then draped onto the 3D body scan 110, details of which are set out in
[0037] Placing/draping the drawn sloper on the body scan allows one to test the fit 112 and to find the idiosyncrasies at play (high hip, uneven shoulders, extreme back curvature, etc.) and then tweek the pattern for an accurate fit of the body. If the sloper does not fit correctly 114, it is corrected using alteration principles 116 and passed back to the draping step 110.
[0038] Once the sloper fits the body scan 118, it has seam allowances and closures added as per the client's instruction 120.
[0039] Once the correct fit has been achieved, the pattern is then returned to the CAD program employed (e.g., AutoCad) where it is printed out full scale using a plotter printer 122, such as an HP DesignJet plotter. The pattern is printed on plain medium bond paper, which is sturdy enough to last, but allows one to use it to cut fabric. The printed sloper is then either shipped to the client or delivered to a tailor 124.
[0040] Looking next at
[0041] Preliminarily, it must be noted that it is imperative that the landmarks generated by the scanner software match the landmarks placed on the client at the scanning session (i.e., those located on the body at the bust or chest, waist, abdomen, and hips in quadrants).
[0042] The scanned data is processed in a program provided by Size Stream which allows one to manipulate both the IR and visible light data. The program enables the user to align (overlay) the scanned data's landmarks to those placed manually before the scan was taken 202. The program tests for match 204, and if the landmarks generated by the scanning software do not align with the landmarks on the client 206, the scanning landmarks are moved to match the client's landmarks 208. When the landmarks match 210, the operation passes to the operation of extracting measurements needed for the sloper build 212. Measurements are extracted by surface measurements between landmarks.
[0043] Body curves are extracted by generating the needed lines on the body surfaces 214. Depending on the shape of the client, curves can be extracted using either Photoshop and AutoCad or, if the client is very large, slice and measure techniques in a modeling and animation program, such as the 3ds Max modeling, animation, and rendering program. Curves extracted include front and back neck, front and back armhole, front, back and side hip, and front and back crotch. These curves are unique to each client.
[0044] The body scan is prepared for draping by making sure that the scan gives an unobstructed, clean access to the arm pit and crotch area for fitting sleeves, shirts, and pants 216.
[0045] The modified body scan, extracted measurements and body curve are all saved in a folder under the client's name 218.
[0046] Referring now to
[0047] The process uses a program written in C Sharp (C#) using dotNet protocol. The program allows the user to develop geometric shapes in CAD and to import shapes for insertion into drawings. As a first step, the measurements and curves from the client's file are loaded into the program 302.
[0048] The user chooses which sloper will be built (for instance, whether it is a bodice, shirt, skirt, women's pants, men's pants, etc.) 304.
[0049] Next, the frame is built (which comprise the straight lines of the sloper) 306 using the geometric principles described in Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. This gives an approximate fit for the sloper by matching the sloper to key areas of the body (bust, waist, hips, etc.).
[0050] At this point one would usually draw an appropriately shaped line for the curves of the body, depending on which sloper is being built. In a preferred embodiment of the inventive method, the extracted curve from the client's body scan is next used because the scan is the exact curve, and one can now fit the frame to the curve for a more accurate first draft 308.
[0051] The sloper is then laid out in such a way that it can be imported into 3ds Max, which can animate the body scan for fitting, and the frame is tested for match to the curve 310. While other modeling programs can be usefully employed, 3ds Max is highly discriminating about how points overlap. If the frame does not match 312, it is modified to fit the curve 314. Thus, only when it does match 316, is the operation passed to preparing the sloper for draping on the body scan 318. This process allows for fine tuning of the fit of the sloper for problems that have not been addressed. For instance, if a client has a high hip or unusually sloped shoulders, it will show as the sloper is draped on the body scan. In an embodiment, an animation program may be employed to renders 2D shapes into cloth which can be draped on a shape.
[0052] Once the pattern has been turned into cloth, it can be draped on the scanned body and the seams are sewn together. This is very much like having a client in for a fitting at a tailor's shop. It is possible to identify areas that are too tight or too loose, or a seam in the wrong place, etc. Classic alteration principles are used to adjust the sloper to fit the body.
[0053] The above disclosure is sufficient to enable one of ordinary skill in the art to practice the invention, and provides the best mode of practicing the invention presently contemplated by the inventor. While there is provided herein a full and complete disclosure of the preferred embodiments of this invention, it is not desired to limit the invention to the exact construction, dimensional relationships, and operation shown and described. Various modifications, alternative constructions, changes and equivalents will readily occur to those skilled in the art and may be employed, as suitable, without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention. Such changes might involve alternative materials, components, structural arrangements, sizes, shapes, forms, functions, operational features or the like.
[0054] Therefore, the above description and illustrations should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.