Fragrance compositions
10072234 ยท 2018-09-11
Assignee
Inventors
- John Martin Behan (Kent, GB)
- Briony Care (Kent, GB)
- Anne Churchill (Kent, GB)
- Michael Gordon Evans (Kent, GB)
- Keith Douglas Perring (Kent, GB)
- Alan Forbes Provan (Kent, GB)
Cpc classification
C11B9/0061
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
C11B9/02
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
International classification
Abstract
A fragrance composition and use thereof by inhalation to promote activated, pleasant moods. The fragrance composition comprises at least 75% by weight of perfume materials including at least 10% by weight of at least three specific materials from a group identified as Group IMP and optionally up to 90% of specific materials selected from groups identified as HMR, HMI, HMP, RMP and GEN, the amounts of materials from said Groups falling within specified relationships.
Claims
1. A fragrance composition comprising at least 40 perfume ingredients present in an amount of at least 75% by weight, wherein the ingredients are selected from the following groups: A) at least 15% by weight in total of at least three ingredients are selected from Group IMP, wherein Group IMP comprises: allyl amyl glycolate; benzyl salicylate; bergamot oil; coriander oil; cyclamen aldehyde; 1-(2,6,10-trimethylcyclododeca-2,5,9-trien-1-yl)ethanone; prop-2-enyl (cyclohexyloxy)acetate; Damascenia 185 SAE; 2,4-dimethylheptan-1-ol; fir balsam; fir needle oil; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; ginger oil; guaiacwood; linalyl acetate; litsea cubeba oil; methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; nutmeg oil; olibanum oil; orange flower oil; Ozonal AB 7203C; patchouli oil; rose oxide; rosemary oil; sage clary oil; spearmint oil; Tamarine AB 8212E; and tarragon oil; B) optionally up to 90% by weight of the ingredients are selected from the following groups: Group HMR comprising: allyl ionone; benzyl acetate; cis-jasmone; citronellol; ethyl linalol; ethylene brassylate; 4-methyl-2-(2-methylpropyl)tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol; geraniol; geranium oil; iso-eugenol; lemon oil; 3-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; alpha-iso-methyl ionone; 3-methylcyclopentadec-2-en-1-one; cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanolide; and gamma-undecalactone; Group HMI comprising: 1-{[2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl]oxy}butan-2-ol; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1-{b}]furan; alpha-damascone; dihydromyrcenol; eugenol; 3-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-yl)-2-methylpropanal; 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde; mandarin oil; orange oil; and 2-(1,1-dimethylethyl)cyclohexyl acetate; Group HMP comprising: 1-(2,6,6,8-tetramethyltricyclo [5.3.1.0{1,5}]undec-8-en-9-yl)ethanone; allyl cyclohexylpropionate; allyl heptanoate; Apple Oliffac S pcmf; 7-methyl-2H-1, 5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one; cassis base; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; damascenone; gamma-decalactone; ethyl acetoacetate; ethyl maltol; ethyl methyl phenylglycidate; hexyl acetate; (3E)-4-methyldec-3-en-5-ol; 2,5,5-trimethyl-6,6-bis(methyloxy)hex-2-ene; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one; styrallyl acetate; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; and ylang oil; Group RMP comprising: anisic aldehyde; (2Z)-2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl)but-2-en-1-ol; benzoin siam resinoid; ethyl vanillin; oxacyclohexadec-12(13)-en-2-one; hexyl salicylate; hydroxycitronellal; jasmin oil; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol; 2-(phenyloxy)ethyl 2-methylpropanoate; alpha-terpineol; and vanillin; and Group GEN comprising: cyclopentadecanolide; hexyl cinnamic aldehyde; ionone beta; isobornyl cyclohexanol; 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7(8),8(8a)-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone; 3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal; linalol; methyl dihydrojasmonate; and 2-phenylethanol; provided the following conditions (a) through (e) are met: (a) IMPs >=HMPs +HMRs; (b) IMPs +HMIs +GENs >=70%; (c) (IMP +HMI)/(IMP +HMI +RMP +HMR)>=0.7; (d) IMPs/(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) >=0.5; and (e) IMPs/[(HMPs+RMPs+IMPs) +(100-TOTAL)] >=0.3, wherein IMPs indicates the sum of the percentages of the ingredients within Group IMP, and similarly for the remaining groups, the symbol >= indicates at least equal to, and TOTAL is the sum of HMPs, HMRs, HMIs, IMPs, RMPs and GENs, provided also that solvents scoring less than 80on an odour index scale based on a comparison with the odour intensity of a control sample of a 10% solution of benzyl acetate in dipropylene glycol, which corresponds to an index of 100 are excluded from the calculation of these sums.
2. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, where at least 80% by weight of the ingredients are from the total of Groups IMP, HMI and GEN.
3. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of IMPs/(HMPs +RMPs +IMPs) is at least 0.6.
4. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, where at least five of the ingredients are from Group IMP.
5. A fragrance composition according to claim 4, where at least eight of the ingredients are from Group IMP.
6. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, where at least 90% by weight of the ingredients are from the total of Groups IMP, HMI and GEN.
7. A consumer composition comprising a fragrance composition according to claim 1.
8. A method of providing activated, pleasant moods through inhalation of an effective amount of a fragrance composition according to claim 1.
9. A process of dispensing a fragrance composition according to claim 1 in an amount and for a time sufficient to provide effective vaporous emission for inhalation by a subject.
10. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, comprising at least two ingredients from the GEN group.
11. A fragrance composition according to claim 10, wherein the at least two ingredients are linalol and 3-[4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl]-2-methylpropanal.
12. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one ingredient from the HMI group.
13. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, wherein one of the at least three ingredients present from the IMP group is methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate.
14. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, wherein one of the at least three ingredients present from the IMP group is linalyl acetate.
15. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one ingredient from the RMP group.
16. A fragrance composition according to claim 15, wherein the at least one ingredient from the RMP group is alpha-terpineol.
17. A fragrance composition according to claim 1, comprising at least two ingredients from the GEN group and at least one ingredient from the HMI group.
18. A fragrance composition according to claim 17, further comprising at least one ingredient from the RMP group.
Description
EXAMPLES
(1) The invention will be further described by reference to the following detailed examples, wherein the methodologies are as described below.
(2)
EXAMPLE 1
A Study on Perfume Complexity
(3) A total of 20 different odours were evaluated in a consumer sniff test. The odours were grouped according to their complexity into 3 groups: complex finished fragrances, mixes of fragrance materials known as accords, and simple fragrance mixes or bases. The consumers were asked to smell a subset of the odours and score against the attributes: trendy, calming, nostalgic, relaxing, warm, comforting, stimulating, modern, soothing, sexy, refreshing, cool, energising. The results shown in
EXAMPLE 2
(4) The fragrance compositions detailed in Table 1 were prepared and subjected to a variety of test protocols. Those fragranced labelled I1 through to I4 are fragrance compositions according to the invention, whereas those labelled C1 through C4 are comparatives. Analysis of these compositions according to the group classifications given here is shown below.
(5) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Fragrance compositions FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS I1 I2 I3 I4 C1 C2 C3 C4 w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w INGREDIENT GROUP % % % % % % % % ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE (Q) IMP 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL AMYL GLYCOLATE 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL CYCLOHEXYLPROPIONATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL HEPTANOATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ALLYL IONONE (G) HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMBER CORE (TM) (Q) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMBERLYN SUPER (TM) (Q) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMBERLYN SUPER (TM) (Q) 10% DPG HMI 2.0 0.0 2.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 AMBRETTOLIDE (TM) (G) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 AMYL SALICYLATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 2.0 ANISIC ALDEHYDE RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 APPLE OLIFFAC S PCMF (TM)(IFF) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 APPLINAL (TM)(Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ARMOISE TUNISIAN 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ARMOISE TUNISIAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BANGALOL (TM)(Q) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.6 0.0 3.0 0.5 4.2 BANGALOL LAEVO (TM)(Q) RMP 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 BASIL COMORES OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BASIL COMORES OIL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BENZALDEHYDE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 BENZOIN SIAM RESINOID 50% DPG RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 0.0 2.0 BENZYL ACETATE HMR 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 4.0 4.5 BENZYL SALICYLATE IMP 0.0 0.0 7.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 BERGAMOT OIL IMP 18.0 5.0 15.0 18.0 0.0 3.0 4.0 0.0 BIRCH LEAF N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 CALONE 1951(TM) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 CALONE 1951(TM) 1% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CAMOMILE MOROCCAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CAMOMILE ROMAN 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CARDAMOM OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CASSIONE (TM) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CASSIS BASE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 0.3 0.0 CASSIS BASE 10% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CEDARWOOD VIRGINIAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CEDRENYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CETALOX (TM) (F) 10% DEP HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CETALOX (TM) (F) HMI 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CINNAMIC ALCOHOL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.4 CINNAMON LEAF OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENOL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENOL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYL ACETATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYL CARBONATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS 3 HEXENYL METHYL CARBONATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10% DPG CIS 3 HEXENYL SALICYLATE HMP 3.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 CIS JASMONE HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.1 0.0 CIS JASMONE 10% DPG HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CIS-6-NONEN-1-OL 0.1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 CITRONELLOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 1 CITRONELLYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CLOVE BUD OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 3 CORIANDER OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 COUMARIN N/A 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.4 0.0 1.0 0.0 4 CUMIN SEED 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLAMEN ALDEHYDE IMP 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLISONE (TM) IMP 0.0 3.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLO GALBANATE IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 CYCLOPENTADECANOLIDE GEN 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 1.5 1 CYCLOGALBANATE 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 DAMASCENIA 185 SAE (F) (TM) IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 DAMASCENONE 10% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 DAMASCONE ALPHA 10% DPG HMI 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 DECALACTONE GAMMA HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIHYDROJASMONE (Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIHYDROMYRCENOL HMI 0.0 0.0 6.5 6.0 1.0 3.0 1.0 0.0 DIMETHYL PHENYLETHYL CARBINOL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIMETHYLHEPTANOL IMP 0.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL (DPG) SOLV 0.0 9.8 3.5 4.6 11.4 0.0 3.9 6.6 ETHYL ACETOACETATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL BUTYRATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL LINALOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL MALTOL HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL MALTOL 1% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL METHYL PHENYLGLYCIDATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL VANILLIN RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYL VANILLIN 10% DPG RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE HMR 8.0 0.0 0.0 7.0 0.0 16.0 3.0 7 EUGENOL HMI 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 EUGENYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 EXALTENONE (TM) (F) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FIR BALSAM OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FIR NEEDLE SIBERIA OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FLORALOZONE (IFF) IMP 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FLORALOZONE (IFF) 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 FLORHYDRAL (G) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 FLOROSA (TM) (Q) HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GALAXOLIDE (TM) (IFF) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GALBANUM ARTESSENCE (BIO) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 1% DPG GERANIOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 3.0 0.0 0.0 3 GERANIUM AFRICAN OIL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 GERANYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GINGER PURE IMP 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GRAPEFRUIT BASE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 GUAIACWOOD IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 HABANOLIDE (TM) (F) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 2 HELIONAL (TM) (IFF) HMI 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 HELIOTROPIN N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 3 HEXYL ACETATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 HEXYL CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE GEN 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 4 HEXYL SALICYLATE RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 HYDROXYCITRONELLAL RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 INDOLE 1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 INDOLE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 IONOL (preservative) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.2 0.0 IONONE ALPHA N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 IONONE BETA GEN 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.9 0.0 0.0 0.8 0.0 IONONE BETA 10% DPG GEN 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 IRONE ALPHA (TM) (G) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOAMBOIS (Q) GEN 4.0 7.0 5.0 7.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOAMYL ACETATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 ISOBUTYL ISOBUTYRATE 1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOEUGENOL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 ISOEUGENOL 10% DPG HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 JADENOL (TM) (Q) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 JASMIN OIL RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 2 JASMOLACTONE (F) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 JASMOPYRANE (Q) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LAVANDIN ABRIALIS OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LAVENDER OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 18.0 0.0 1 LEMON ITALIAN OIL HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 LIGUSTRAL (Q) HMI 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 LIGUSTRAL (Q) 10% DPG HMI 4.0 0.0 3.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 LILY ALDEHYDE GEN 6.0 5.0 0.0 1.3 20.0 0.0 14.0 4 LIME OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 LINALOL GEN 0.0 3.0 2.6 4.0 5.5 0.0 1.0 6 LINALYL ACETATE IMP 0.0 0.0 8.5 5.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LITSEA CUBEBA OIL IMP 1.0 0.4 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 LYRAL HMR 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0 5.0 2.0 3 MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL HMI 4.0 3.0 0.0 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 MANDARIN ITALIAN OIL 10% DPG HMI 4.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MANZANATE (Q) 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 MEFROSOL (Q) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MELONAL (TM) (G) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.2 0.0 METHYL ANTHRANILATE N/A 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL BUTANOL 1,2 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL CHAVICOL 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL DIHYDROJASMONATE GEN 36.0 42.0 0.0 9.0 15.0 10.0 20.0 0.0 METHYL HEPTENONE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL HEPTINE CARBONATE 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 METHYL IONONE ALPHA ISO HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 12.0 1.0 2 METHYL OCTINE CARBONATE 20 N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 10% DPG METHYL PAMPLEMOUSSE (G) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC IMP 0.0 0.0 1.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.8 MOSS OAKMOSS SYNTHETIC 10% DPG IMP 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.2 3.0 0.0 0.0 MUGUET MAYCIANE OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 6.0 0.0 MUSCENONE (TM) (F) HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 NEROLI OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 NONALACTONE GAMMA N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 NONALACTONE GAMMA 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.7 0.0 NUTMEG IMP 0.0 0.0 2.5 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 OLIBANUM RESINOID IMP 2.0 0.2 1.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 ORANGE BRAZIL PURE HMI 0.0 0.0 3.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 ORANGE FLORIDA LIGHT OIL HMI 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ORANGE FLOWER BASE IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ORTHOLATE (TM) (Q) HMI 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 OXANE (TM) (F) 1% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 OZONAL AB 7203C (TM) IMP 0.0 0.4 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 PASSION FRUIT 109223 (F) N/A 0.0 0.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 PATCHOULI LIGHT OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 PATCHOULI OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 7.0 PEPPER BLACK P315 (TM) (BIO) N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 PEPPERCORN PINK N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 PEPPERCORN PINK 10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 PHENYL ACETALDEHYDE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 DIMETHYL ACETAL PHENYL ETHYL ALCOHOL GEN 0.0 5.0 0.0 1.7 1.0 0.0 3.3 13.5 PRUNELLA (TM) (F) RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 6.0 0.0 0.0 RASPBERRY KETONE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ROSE OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 ROSE OXIDE LAEVO 10% DPG IMP 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ROSEMARY FRENCH OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 2.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 ROSEWOOD N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 SAGE CLARY OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.9 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 SANDELA GD (TM) (G) GEN 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.8 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 SILVANONE (TM) (Q) HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 SPEARMINT OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 STYRALLYL ACETATE HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.0 STYRALLYL ACETATE 10% DPG HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TAGETES EGYPTIAN OIL N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TAMARINE AB 8212E (TM) IMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TARRAGON OIL IMP 0.0 0.0 0.4 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TERPINEOL RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.2 0.0 THYME WHITE OIL10% DPG N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TONALID N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 TOP ROSE BASE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 TRANS-2-CIS-6-NONADIENAL 0.1% DPG N/A 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 TUBEROSE BASE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.6 1.0 UNDECALACTONE GAMMA HMR 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 UNDECAVERTOL (G) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 VANILLIN RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 1.0 VANILLIN 10% DPG RMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 VELOUTONE (F) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 VERTOFIX COEUR (TM) (IFF) HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 6.0 VETYVERYL ACETATE N/A 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 YLANG OIL HMP 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.9 0.8 TOTAL % 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Key to suppliers: B = Biolandes F = Firmenich G = Givaudan IFF = International Flavors and Fragrances Q = Quest International Notes: 1) Ingredient Y X % DPG indicates X % of ingredient Y in a DPG solution 2) N/A indicates a material that is not allocated (i.e. the group is unknown) 3) SOLV indicates the material to be a solvent
(6) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Group Analysis of Fragrances of Table FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS SUM % I1 I2 I3 I4 C2 C3 C4 C7 HMRs 8.0 3.0 1.3 7.6 8.9 37.0 15.3 20.5 HMIs 11.0 5.1 15.7 20.6 4.7 3.0 6.0 0.0 GEN 46.0 65.0 9.6 28.7 41.5 10.0 45.6 28.5 IMPs 21.2 9.0 56.6 26.5 1.3 9.3 4.1 8.0 HMPs 3.0 5.0 0.2 0.0 8.8 0.0 4.6 6.8 RMPs 0.0 1.0 0.5 2.7 3.0 14.0 3.9 10.2 TOTAL 89.2 88.1 83.9 85.9 68.2 73.3 79.5 74.0 SOLV 10.8 10.8 11.5 9.1 15.9 6.5 11.8 7.6 ratio 1 0.80 0.78 0.98 0.82 0.34 0.19 0.35 0.21 ratio 2 0.88 0.60 0.99 0.91 0.10 0.40 0.33 0.32 ratio 3 0.61 0.33 0.77 0.61 0.03 0.19 0.12 0.16 Sums corrected for solvent solvent 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.2 1.1 1.1 1.1 correction* HMRs 9.0 3.4 1.5 8.3 10.6 39.6 17.3 22.2 HMIs 12.3 5.7 17.8 22.6 5.6 3.2 6.8 0.0 GEN 51.6 72.9 10.8 31.6 49.4 10.7 51.7 30.8 IMPs 23.8 10.1 63.9 29.1 1.5 9.9 4.7 8.7 HMPs 3.4 5.6 0.2 0.0 10.4 0.0 5.2 7.4 RMPs 0.0 1.1 0.6 2.9 3.6 15.0 4.4 11.0 TOTAL 100.0 98.8 94.8 94.5 81.1 78.4 90.1 80.1 condition 1 Y Y Y Y no no no no condition 2 YES YES YES YES no no no no Notes: *Solvent correction obtained as 100/(100 SOLV) ratio 1 = (IMPs + HMIs)/(IMPs + HMIs + RMPs + HMRs) ratio 2 = IMPs/(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs) ratio 3 = IMPs/[(IMPs + HMPs + RMPs) + (100 TOTAL)] condition 1 is IMPs >= HMPs + HMRs condition 2 is IMPs + HMIs + GENs >= 70%
EXAMPLE 3
(7) Salivary cortisol provides a convenient route to assess the degree of stress throughout the day. In the below protocol two perfumes were subjected to a cortisol test largely based on that disclosed in WO 2002/049629. The perfume of the invention I3, with an aromatic fougere scent and perceived as invigorating, was found not to promote higher cortisol levels during a working day than did a control procedure excluding perfume. A comparative perfume C4, a spicy oriental type perceived as relaxing, was found to produce a significantly higher level of cortisol depression, as expected.
(8) Protocol:
(9) A group of healthy subjects (3 male and 2 female, known as subjects A to E) participated in trials over several days to assess the relaxation/invigorating effect of smelling two fragrances as indicated by changes in salivary cortisol levels. Assessments took place at least 4 hours after waking each day. 1) Initial saliva sample provided (approx 1 ml) 2) Smelling of fragrance (randomised across days) for 15 minutes i.e. smelling from fragranced sorborod for 20 seconds every 2 minutes. 3) Second saliva sample provided 30 minutes after the end of the smelling. 4) Sample stored in refrigerator until completion of all days experimentation. 5) All samples were analysed using an ELISA kit sourced from Immunodiagnostic Systems Limited (code SLV-2930).
Results:
(10) The effect of no treatment was a small (ca 4.5%) depression in cortisol. Smelling perfume I3 produced a slightly larger depression (ca 8%) but identical within experimental error. The relaxing fragrance yielded a significantly larger cortisol depression (ca. 28%). Fragrance I3 is therefore invigorating without causing noticeable increases in cortisol production.
(11) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Effect of smelling fragrance I3 on salivary cortisol levels Control I3 % Change Start End Start End Control I3 A 6.48 6.53 5.20 4.57 0.751 12.057 B 4.20 4.50 6.08 5.11 7.089 15.916 C 3.37 3.12 3.83 3.36 7.252 12.311 D 3.97 3.80 4.12 4.43 4.369 7.472 E 3.44 2.81 3.46 3.21 18.477 7.079 Mean 4.29 4.15 4.37 4.03 4.452 7.978 StDev 1.27 1.48 1.17 0.90 9.55 9.19
(12) TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Effect of smelling fragrance C4 on salivary cortisol levels Control C4 % Change Start End Start End Control C4 A 6.48 6.53 5.25 3.44 0.751 34.504 B 4.20 4.50 5.57 3.88 7.089 30.265 C 3.37 3.12 4.17 3.40 7.252 18.532 D 3.97 3.80 3.99 3.11 4.369 22.146 E 3.44 2.81 3.58 2.43 18.477 32.251 Mean 4.29 4.15 4.33 3.21 4.452 27.540 StDev 1.27 1.48 0.86 0.61 9.55 6.86
EXAMPLE 4
(13) The fragrances of Table 1 were subjected to two protocols designed to yield information on the mood response they engender.
(14) A) Mood Attribute Testing (MAT)
(15) This was a central location sniff test carried out in the UK.
(16) 150 nave consumers were either pre-recruited or recruited by intercept in the street to attend a hall test. They were pre-screened for any nasal disorders or allergic sensitivities to smelling fragrance. The panellists were all female and were selected to represent a cross section of ages from 18 to 55 and a cross section of social classes.
(17) Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order. As each fragrance was smelt they were asked to mark a series of given mood scales according to how the fragrance made them feel (e.g. comforted, safe, soothed). There were 24 mood scales in all and each was scored on a 0-10 scale from not at all to extremely.
(18) B) Mood Portraits
(19) This was also a central location sniff test carried out in the UK, and as for the Mood Attribute Scaling 150 nave consumers were either pre-recruited or recruited by intercept in the street to attend a hall test. They were pre-screened for any nasal disorders or allergic sensitivities to smelling fragrance. The panellists used were all female and were selected to represent a cross section of ages from 18 to 55 and a cross section of social classes.
(20) Each subject was asked to smell the fragrances in a predetermined order. For this test they were asked to experience the mood or emotion evoked by the fragrance and then select, from a library of displayed pictures, up to 5 that evoke the same or similar mood or emotion. Research carried out previously at Quest had established the mood or emotions evoked by the pictures and had also developed a statistical approach to transforming the picture selection frequency data into mood profiles for each fragrance.
(21) The rank orders from each test are shown below in table 5, with the most invigorating fragrance being ranked as 1. Although there is noise in the data the subset of invigorating fragrances according to the present invention is clearly discriminated from the comparative fragrances.
(22) TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Rank Order for Stimulating Perfume Code MAT Method I1 3 2 I2 4 3 I3 2 1 I4 1 4 C1 5 6 C2 8 8 C3 6 5 C4 7 7