VOLATILE OILY COMPOSITION

Abstract

A volatile oil composition includes a vehicle and a silicone elastomer, wherein the vehicle is a volatile oily composition of (a) from 50 to 100% by weight of a mixture of linear paraffins including (i) 90 to 99% by weight of at least one linear paraffin selected from C.sub.8, C.sub.10, C.sub.12 paraffins and mixtures thereof, and (ii) 1 to 10% by weight of a C.sub.14 linear paraffin, and (b) from 0 to 50% by weight of at least one non-volatile oil. The composition may be used in cosmetic compositions such as for making up and/or caring for and/or protecting skin, lips, eyelashes and/or nails, and in antiperspirant/deodorant compositions.

Claims

1. A composition consisting of a vehicle and a silicone elastomer, wherein the vehicle is a volatile oily composition consisting of: (a) from 50 to 100% by weight of a mixture of linear paraffins consisting of: (i) 90 to 99% by weight of at least one linear paraffin selected from C.sub.8, C.sub.10, C.sub.12 paraffins and mixtures thereof, and (ii) 1 to 10% by weight of a C.sub.14 linear paraffin, and (b) from 0 to 50% by weight of at least one non-volatile oil, wherein the volatile oily composition is free of cyclic silicone.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mixture of linear paraffins comprises (i) dodecane and (ii) tetradecane.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-volatile oil is selected from the group consisting of: mineral or synthetic branched hydrocarbons, (poly)esters and (poly)ethers, (poly)esters of C.sub.2-C.sub.24 acids and C.sub.2-C.sub.24 alcohols or polyols, C.sub.6-C.sub.20 fatty acid triglycerides, vegetable oils, dialkyl carbonates, branched and/or unsaturated fatty acids, branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohols, silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile oily composition consists of: (a) 70 to 95% by weight of said mixture of linear paraffins; and (b) 5 to 30% by weight of said at least one non-volatile oil.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mixture of linear paraffins in the volatile oily composition consists of: (i) 90 to 99% by weight of dodecane; and (ii) 1 to 10% by weight of tetradecane.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile oily composition consists of: (a) 85 to 95% by weight of said mixture of linear paraffins; and (b) 5 to 15% by weight of said at least one non-volatile oil.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the paraffins in the mixture of linear paraffins are each of plant origin.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile oily composition has a flash point between 75° C. to 85° C.

10. A method for improving the wear of a mascara, lipstick or foundation, comprising a step of including therein the composition according to claim 1.

11. A method for improving the spreading of sunscreen compositions on skin and/or the dispersion of pigments within sunscreen compositions, comprising a step of including therein the composition according to claim 1.

12. A method for improving the evaporation and/or application of antiperspirant or deodorant compositions on the skin, comprising a step of including therein the composition according to claim 1.

13. A cosmetic composition in the form of a mascara, a lipstick, or a foundation, comprising a silicone elastomer, a volatile oily composition, and a cosmetically acceptable medium, the volatile oily composition consisting of: (a) from 50 to 100% by weight of a mixture of linear paraffins consisting of: (i) 90 to 99% by weight of at least one linear paraffin selected from C.sub.8, C.sub.10, C.sub.12 paraffins and mixtures thereof, and (ii) 1 to 10% by weight of a C.sub.14 linear paraffin, and (b) from 0 to 50% by weight of at least one non-volatile oil, wherein the volatile oily composition is free of cyclic silicone.

14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the paraffins in the mixture of linear paraffins are each of plant origin.

15. The cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the volatile oily composition has a flash point between 75° C. to 85° C.

17. A method for making up, caring for and/or protecting skin, lips, eyelashes and/or nails, comprising a step of applying the cosmetic composition according to claim 13 onto said skin, lips, eyelashes and/or nails.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile oily composition has a flash point measured according to the ATSM D93 standard below 100° C., and a vapor pressure from 0.13 Pa (0.001 mm Hg) to 3.99 x 10.sup.4 Pa (300 mm Hg) at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure, and the non-volatile oil exhibits a vapor pressure less than 0.13 Pa (0.001 mm Hg) at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Foundation (W/O emulsion)

[0049] Using conventional methods for those skilled in the art, a composition containing the constituents identified in upper case letters in Table 1 below by the INCI name thereof (with reference to the CTFA Dictionary, 11.sup.th Edition, 2006), in the percentages by weight specified opposite said constituents, was prepared.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Phase Constituent % A CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 2.80 PHENYLTRIMETHICONE 1.00 POLYDECENE 3.00 CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE 2.00 Mixture of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 linear paraffins 18.00 B MICA 0.50 RED OXIDE & DIMETHICONE 0.22 YELLOW OXIDE & DIMETHICONE 0.75 BLACK IRON OXIDE & DIMETHICONE 0.12 TITANIUM DIOXIDE & DIMETHICONE 8.50 C SODIUM CHLORIDE 1.25 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.50 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.00 Water q.s. 100.00 Fragrance q.s.

Preparation:

[0050] The compounds of phase A were mixed for 10 minutes at 1000 rpm. After the constituents of phase B were mixed, they were added to phase A. The mixture of both phases was homogenised for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm. Phase C was prepared by dispersing the solid constituents thereof in water, and said phase was added to the emulsion previously obtained. The whole was homogenised for 15 minutes at 4500 rpm.

Evaluation:

[0051] The above composition (hereinafter, Composition 1A) was evaluated by a panel of 20 volunteers, compared to an identical formula (hereinafter, Composition 1B), but containing 18.00% by weight of cyclopentasiloxane (DOW CORNING DC 345®) instead of the mixture of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 linear paraffins.

[0052] These compositions were considered to be identical in terms of the consistency, application homogeneity and covering and transfer-free (on blouse collars) effects thereof. The drying times and matting effect thereof were similar.

[0053] Therefore, no significant sensorial differences were perceived between these two formulas.

Example 2: Dry oil

[0054] Using conventional methods for those skilled in the art, a composition 2A containing the constituents identified in Table 2 below (where those in upper case letters are identified by the INCI name thereof), in the percentages by weight specified opposite said constituents, was prepared.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Constituent % CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES 10.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 SQUALANE 5.00 OCTYLDODECANOL 59.90 GLYCINE SOYA & TOCOPHEROL 0.10 Mixture of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 linear paraffins & HEXYL LAURATE 20.00 Fragrance q.s.

[0055] This composition was evaluated by a panel of 30 volunteers, compared to the following compositions, in which the oily composition according to the invention was replaced by 20% by weight of the constituents specified below:

[0056] Composition 2B: dicaprylyl carbonate (COGNIS Cetiol CC®)

[0057] Composition 2C: cyclopentasiloxane

[0058] Composition 2D: mixture of isododecane and neopentylglycol diheptanoate (INOLEX Lexfeel® D5)

[0059] It was observed that composition 2A according to the invention, like composition 2C, penetrated the skin rapidly, leaving a soft and non-greasy film thereon, whereas composition 2B penetrated more slowly and formed a residual film having a greasy texture. The volatile fraction of composition 2D evaporated rapidly to leave a film with a dry, but grating, unpleasant texture.

[0060] The superiority of the oily composition according to the invention was confirmed by substituting hexyl laurate with other esters, i.e.: ethylhexyl isononanoate (composition 2E), isostearyl neopentanoate (composition 2F) and propanediol dicaprylate (composition 2G). The features of all these compositions were equivalent, except that composition 2F gave the skin a more satiny effect.

[0061] A similar experiment was conducted in which two compositions 2H and 2H′ according to this invention were compared. These were comprised of linear paraffins with 12 and 14 carbon atoms only, in different proportions. Composition 2H contained 30% of C.sub.14 paraffin while composition 2H′ contained 10% of C.sub.14 paraffin. These were compared also with another composition 2H″ according to this invention, comprising 1% of C.sub.14 paraffin, 9% of an ester oil and 90% of C.sub.12 paraffin. Composition 2H provided a softer touch than composition 2H′, which was very close to that provided by a standard composition based on Cetiol® CC. Composition 2H″ gave similar results to composition 2H′ but a gloss somewhat higher which was not detrimental in this application.

Example 3: Organic Anti-Age Cream

[0062] Using conventional methods for those skilled in the art, a composition containing the constituents identified in Table 3 below (where those in upper case letters are identified by the INCI name thereof), in the percentages by weight specified opposite said constituents, was prepared.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Constituent % CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 5.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Camellia oil 5.00 Shea butter 5.00 Beeswax 2.00 Water q.s. 100.00 Glycerine 3.00 Xanthan gum 0.20 Sodium hydroxide  0.035 Dehydroacetic acid 0.80 TOCOPHEROL & GLYCINE SOJA 0.20 Mixture of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 linear paraffins & COCO 1.00 CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE

[0063] This composition was evaluated by a panel of 20 volunteers, compared to identical compositions containing greater quantities of oily composition according to the invention (2, 3 and 5% by weight, respectively).

[0064] It was observed that the oily composition according to the invention decreased the soap effect of this cosmetic composition, which had an increasingly soft velvety texture as the oily composition content increased. Besides, this composition provided for a slightly softer touch than DC345® and penetrated quickly into skin.

Example 4: Anti-perspirant

[0065] Using conventional methods for those skilled in the art, a composition containing the constituents identified in Table 4 below (where those in upper case letters are identified by the INCI name thereof), in the percentages by weight specified opposite said constituents, was prepared.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Constituent % CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 2.00 TRICLOSAN 0.10 DIMETHICONOL & VEGETABLE ALKANES 5.00 (this invention) ALUMINIUM SESQUICHLOROHYDRATE 15.00 ISODODECANE & DISTEARDIMONIUM 15.00 HECTORITE & PROPYLENE CARBONATE VEGETABLE ALKANES & COCO CAPRYLATE 56.20 (this invention) Butylene glycol and spirulina (Spirox ®) 0.03 Fragrance 6.67

Example 5: Physical Properties

[0066] The oily mixture of this invention was compared with DC345® and two other paraffin mixtures, i.e. Isopar® M which is a mixture of C.sub.13-14 isoparaffins and Linpar® 14-17 which is a mixture of C.sub.14-17 linear paraffins.

[0067] The results of this comparison are summarized in Table 5 below.

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Flash Vapour point pressure Component (° C.)* (mm Hg) Cyclopentasiloxane and 77 1 cyclohexasiloxane (DC345 ®) C.sub.13-C14 isoparaffin (Isopar ® M) 82 0.011 C.sub.14-17 alkanes (Linpar ® 14-17) 118 <0.01 Mixture of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 alkanes 75 0.2 (this invention)
* according to ASTM D93

[0068] It follows from this Table that this invention provides a mixture of paraffins which has an evaporation profile closer to that of DC345®.

Example 6: Sensorial Analysis

[0069] A comparison was made by volunteers between: [0070] composition 6A: an oily mixture according to this invention consisting of C.sub.12 and C.sub.14 paraffins and coco caprylate as an ester oil, [0071] composition 6B: DC345® and [0072] composition 6C: Lilac® (C.sub.14-22 alkanes).

[0073] The following parameters were assessed: smooth effect, quantity of residue, sticky effect, shiny effect, extension, fresh feel, greasy feel and wet effect. The three compositions tested compared similarly, except that composition 6A appeared much less shiny (grade about 5.5) than composition 6C (grade more than 7), with a gloss similar to that of composition 6B (grade about 6).

[0074] This example thus demonstrates the superiority of the oily mixture of this invention.